Start at the lowest point of Aguida Encantada, passed on walk in to Espolon Central Sector; route name painted at base. Follow easy grooves and walls rightwards (simul-climbing possible) until reaching a large vegetated ledge. A fine direct variation at 4+/5 is possible on the wall above, otherwise avoid this by ac vegetated groove to right. Belay below the obvious fine corner and slab. Continue up the right hand side side of the slab, making use of old fixed gear, to another stance. Move left to the arete and a stunning position. Move easily upwards in increasingly spectacular situtations, belaying as necessary, until the summit of the pinnacle. Abseil descent possible to right, into Los Lobos Canyon - good gear in notch between summit and next pinnacle.

KittyKat 22/May/16 AltLd
with Rocio, Fede
jon59 03/Apr/16 Lead

A great mountain route which improves with height, we completed the route in 7 pitches with 2 Abseils. Approach - Follow rough track up from the HLS and continue along track traversing along the left of the mountain until level with the mountain on the right, head up path on the right towards the crag arriving at the route marked in red paint (ART) p1 - Lead up arete and cracks to spike belay near new ring bolt 35m Gr 3+. p2 - Either lead up past ring bolt Gr4+ or go up gully to the left Gr3+ until the large ledge and face with DB belay 60m. p3 - Traverse right and up slightly until a piton 5m, then head up directly until you reach an insitu wire thread. Move right and step right around a rib until another bent piton, head directly up a crack system with large bay on right (in situ tat) to DB belay stance on the left of a ledge 40m Gr4. p4 - Head up slab and first move left then right to a large ledge Gr 3+ to multiple spike belays 60m. p5 - Either lead up direct at 4+/5 marked with white / red paint (Insitu tat), or move into the groove system at the right side of the bay turning left before a tree and continue to move left up to ledge, DB belay 40m below narrow slabs to the right of the arete Gr 3. *Escape option from ledge if required* p5 - Enter the slab pitch heading to the right edge past three pitons to a ledge and thread belay stance Gr 4+ 25m. p6 - Step left onto the ridge proper and head up to a DB belay Gr 4 30m or as we did head straight up next slab at Gr 6 25m to same DB belay. p7 - Head up ridge over shattered rock until DB belay / abseil station Gr 3 60m (old + new bolt). Ab1 - Abseil into notch and DB Ab station on left 10m. Ab 2 - Abseil 60m into large bay. Ab 2a - If you are climbing on a single rope abseil 30m to a old 2 piton abseil station 25m. Ab 2b - Abseil 30m to large bay as per Ab 2. Finally easy down climbing through bushes back to the large escape ledge at P5 and either head over to complete another climb on the Puig or head down and left to the descent path back to the road. A great web site which has route photos.

KittyKat 03/Apr/16 AltLd β

Aristoteles + cresta pepsi Very cool climb. The arete leading on to the ridge was quite scary and exposed. Lead the rest of the ridge (type 2 fun). Took quite long to find the abseil (scramble down to the top of the groove)

with Antonio, Fede
Juan Ruiz 01/May/15 AltLd O/S

Primero en 1er y penúltimo largo. 4 largo en libre. Penúltimo largo realizado por la arista en lugar de el diedro (haciendo travesía a izquierdas, tras unos bloques de piedra, remontamos por una fisura hasta enlazar con la vía original 5/5+). El rapel se hace desde dos tornillos con eslabones viejos, precario. El rapel fue guiado hasta un segundo rapel de 5 metros desde unos cordinos.

with Lamberto, Pablo Perea
Hidden 05/Mar/15 AltLd β
Hidden 23/Jan/15 2nd
Mark Eddy 23/Jan/15 Lead

Initial pitches were difficult to follow and a few wrong turns taken. From pitch 5 onwards it was much more straightforward to follow and with much better climbing. There's quite a bit of fixed gear (threads and pegs), although it's getting old. Many belays look like they've been recently bolted (shiny new bolts) so retreat would be more straightforward. However, this is definitely a 'trad' route, with slings and wallnuts especially useful. Didn't use any cams and would suggest not bothering. The final 100m or so on the narrow arete is splendid and more than makes up for some of the more mediocre climbing lower down. 4 abseils got us into the Los Lobos canyon. Ab 1: About 10m into a notch. Bolts are old. We backed up the in-situ rope with a sling. Ab 2: About 35m into the Lobos canyon (towards the main bulk of Puig). From new looking bolts and chain link. Ab 3: About 45m (although could do a shorter one of about 30m and scramble) into the gully proper. This was from 2 ancient pegs and crappy tat. We backed up the tat linking the pegs, but still felt uncomfortable. Ab 4: This one is avoidable but seemed safest option as we were tired. From previous landing point, head left, looking out, toward Espolon Central area, scramble onto a subsidiary ridge to locate a thread (in-situ gear Jan 2015) and abseil about 8m into the huge gully. From here scramble to the base of Espolon Central. Note: Between pitch 5 & 6 is a huge terrace. This provides a useful escape option to the right, towards Espolon Central. A scramble would lead easily to the base of EC. Equally, if wanting to miss out the less fun climbing of the early pitches, scramble to this ledge from EC and start the route here. A leisurely 7h 20m car to car Blog link with full route & descent description here:

with Kate
auld al 13/Jan/15 AltLd O/S

Main abseil now well equipped with new bolts

Skullfire 14/May/14 Lead O/S
with Jun Minohara
Hidden 14/May/14 2nd
Loubylou 14/May/14 -
with Mark Edwards
HodgePL ?/Dec/12 AltLd
jayyaj ?/Oct/12 -
daveyji ?/Sep/12 AltLd O/S

Climbed the corner instaed of the slab. It was much harder than HS !!

with Linda Williamson
Hidden 08/May/11 AltLd O/S
andybeanland 15/Oct/08 AltLd O/S
with Dad
Peter Metcalfe 01/Feb/08 AltLd

Scary abseil descent on dubious gear

with Phil Team America
greedo ??/2002 AltLd O/S
with Matt goater
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