700m.

Rockfax Description
III, 700m, 4 - 5 hours. A classic of this area, Fil à Plomb is (by the standards of winter alpine routes) a reliable option and often in condition.Begin by climbing the straightforward snow gully before branching left to the foot of a steep wall.
Approach - From the Plan de l'Aiguille, walk beneath the west faces of the Aiguille du Peigne and Pélerins onto the Glacier des Pélerins. Stay well left to avoid exposure to the huge hanging serac to the right of the Col du Plan North Couloir. With a track in place, and/or with firm snow, the bergschrund is a 90 minute walk from the Plan de l'Aiguille. It is common to approach on skis if there is enough snow.
1) The wall can be climbed without much ice at around Scottish 4 but is easier when fat. Continue up 70m of 50 degree snow to reach the crux pitches.
2) There is a fixed belay tucked under an overhang on the right. The crux is climbed in two pitches but the trickiest section is usually the short traverse left at the very start of the first crux pitch. The rest of the first steep pitch is up to 85 degrees and can be well protected with ice screws. There is another fixed belay on the right after the first pitch (40m), where the ice mellows in angle slightly. The second crux section is easier but still kicks up to 70 degrees in places (50m).
3) Belay on the right after the final steep section and then climb the remaining snow gully, and the occasional steeper ice step, to reach the ridge-line between the Rognon du Plan and Col du Plan.
Descent - From the top of Fil à Plomb, follow the snow ridge towards the Col du Plan and go onto the Chamonix side where it steepens and solidifies. Make a descending traverse to the Col du Plan. From there, follow the easy but beautiful snow ridge back to the Aiguille du Midi cable car and take the lift down. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Mostly easy ground with two pitches of WI3/4 at half height.

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Batoux's 100 finest routes in the Mont Blanc massif, 10 Routes to Climb in Chamonix in Winter

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Logged Ascents

UserDateStyleNotes & Partners
QuentinSu 3 Nov, 2017 AltLd O/S
Hidden 10 Oct, 2017 AltLd O/S
DaveThexton 10 Oct, 2017 AltLd O/S
Hidden 9 Oct, 2017 -
Hidden 7 Oct, 2017 AltLd
SeánM 6 Oct, 2017 AltLd O/S
adie84 ??, 2017 -
Hidden 8 May, 2016 Lead O/S
ndraper1 17 Mar, 2016 AltLd O/S 6 1/2 hrs from mid station to Col which felt pretty good given how much snow there was on the approach and final couloirs, but we weren't rushing for the lift so made all the more pleasurable. Great condition but doesn't stop the crux feeling pumpy & spooky! Really is a gem line. We down climbed to join grand envers lower slopes and walked/skied for the first time on approach skis with mountain boots. Lets just say the jug of stout was well earned!
with Mike
6 1/2 hrs from mid station to Col which felt pretty good given how much snow there was on the approach and final couloirs, but we weren't rushing for the lift so made all the more pleasurable. Great condition but doesn't stop the crux feeling pumpy & spooky! Really is a gem line. We down climbed to join grand envers lower slopes and walked/skied for the first time on approach skis with mountain boots. Lets just say the jug of stout was well earned!
with Mike
Jack Geldard ??, 2016 -
Hidden ??, 2016 -
Hidden 30 Dec, 2015 AltLd O/S
jimmatthews 30 Dec, 2015 AltLd O/S From first bin. Crux: My lead. Tricky move to get onto ice, the follwing was good.
From first bin. Crux: My lead. Tricky move to get onto ice, the follwing was good.
Kyrros 10 Mar, 2015 AltLd O/S
Hidden 15 Feb, 2015 Solo β
Hidden 27 Oct, 2014 2nd
Hidden 27 Oct, 2014 Lead
darcan 7 Apr, 2014 AltLd Very very thin ice
with vegarye
Very very thin ice
with vegarye
chapmand 12 Mar, 2014 AltLd O/S
with Rory Brown
with Rory Brown
Hidden 12 Mar, 2014 AltLd
edek_w 24 Feb, 2014 - Incredible amount of snow!!! Very thin ice in the crux.
with Rafal Zajac
Incredible amount of snow!!! Very thin ice in the crux.
with Rafal Zajac
Hidden 13 Jan, 2014 Lead O/S
GraMc 31 Oct, 2013 Solo O/S was my second big day out in a row so I was totally wasted trying to make it back up the midi arete!
was my second big day out in a row so I was totally wasted trying to make it back up the midi arete!
Hidden 18 Apr, 2013 -
walts4 ??, 2013 -
David Horwood 31 Oct, 2012 -
BorisVBlade 20 Oct, 2012 Lead O/S Great climb. Started from first cable car. Snow conditions deteriorated when we got to the final gully leading to the top (avalanches) so were forced to pick a mixed route though the rock on the right. Was still very enjoyable.
with Markus Roggen
Great climb. Started from first cable car. Snow conditions deteriorated when we got to the final gully leading to the top (avalanches) so were forced to pick a mixed route though the rock on the right. Was still very enjoyable.
with Markus Roggen
Hidden ?Oct, 2012 AltLd dog
Rob84 2 Apr, 2012 AltLd O/S
with Rob Adie
with Rob Adie
mikeyjbs 31 Mar, 2012 AltLd dog
with Big Lee
with Big Lee
Big Lee 31 Mar, 2012 AltLd O/S Route was very busy. My partner at one point had about five roped teams climbing around him in close proximity. An excellent route though with a superb crux pitch.
Route was very busy. My partner at one point had about five roped teams climbing around him in close proximity. An excellent route though with a superb crux pitch.
Hidden 7 Mar, 2012 -
Neil Adams 28 Feb, 2012 AltLd O/S
with Heike
with Heike
Heike 28 Feb, 2012 AltLd
Alasdair Fulton 21 Feb, 2012 AltLd O/S Awesome.
with James Sutton
Awesome.
with James Sutton
liamo333 ??, 2012 -
Hidden 20 Jul, 2011 -
Exodus 13 Apr, 2011 AltLd O/S Good climb, ice getting a little thin. Delayed 1st car meant we missed the last car down. Uncomfortable night in toilets and Gareth missed his flight home!
with Gareth
Good climb, ice getting a little thin. Delayed 1st car meant we missed the last car down. Uncomfortable night in toilets and Gareth missed his flight home!
with Gareth
Hidden ?Mar, 2011 AltLd
stuart34 9 Feb, 2011 AltLd O/S Wicked, soloed majority of route
with Ben, Niel
Wicked, soloed majority of route
with Ben, Niel
Ally Baba 3 Feb, 2011 Lead O/S
with Damo
with Damo
Hidden ??, 2011 -
Rich Cross - Alpine Guides ?Oct, 2008 AltLd
with Es Tressider
with Es Tressider
Hidden ?Jan, 2007 AltLd dnf
zero six ??, 2007 AltLd dnf team implosion
team implosion
Jim Walton 18 Mar, 2000 AltLd O/S
with Ed Cartwright
with Ed Cartwright
neilmclean ??, 1995 - Seconded ice. Long slog back to cable car in brilliant sunshine once we reached the rigde line.
Seconded ice. Long slog back to cable car in brilliant sunshine once we reached the rigde line.
GaryK ?Jan, 1990 AltLd O/S Climbed it from the first cable car in the morning and just missed the last one down that night. Spent a warmish night outside the toilets in the station.
with Simon Yates
Climbed it from the first cable car in the morning and just missed the last one down that night. Spent a warmish night outside the toilets in the station.
with Simon Yates
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