Rockfax Description
III, 700m, 4 - 5 hours. A classic of this area, Fil à Plomb is (by the standards of winter alpine routes) a reliable option and often in condition.Begin by climbing the straightforward snow gully before branching left to the foot of a steep wall.
Approach - From the Plan de l'Aiguille, walk beneath the west faces of the Aiguille du Peigne and Pélerins onto the Glacier des Pélerins. Stay well left to avoid exposure to the huge hanging serac to the right of the Col du Plan North Couloir. With a track in place, and/or with firm snow, the bergschrund is a 90 minute walk from the Plan de l'Aiguille. It is common to approach on skis if there is enough snow.
1) The wall can be climbed without much ice at around Scottish 4 but is easier when fat. Continue up 70m of 50 degree snow to reach the crux pitches.
2) There is a fixed belay tucked under an overhang on the right. The crux is climbed in two pitches but the trickiest section is usually the short traverse left at the very start of the first crux pitch. The rest of the first steep pitch is up to 85 degrees and can be well protected with ice screws. There is another fixed belay on the right after the first pitch (40m), where the ice mellows in angle slightly. The second crux section is easier but still kicks up to 70 degrees in places (50m).
3) Belay on the right after the final steep section and then climb the remaining snow gully, and the occasional steeper ice step, to reach the ridge-line between the Rognon du Plan and Col du Plan.
Descent - From the top of Fil à Plomb, follow the snow ridge towards the Col du Plan and go onto the Chamonix side where it steepens and solidifies. Make a descending traverse to the Col du Plan. From there, follow the easy but beautiful snow ridge back to the Aiguille du Midi cable car and take the lift down. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Mostly easy ground with two pitches of WI3/4 at half height.

Ticklists: Batoux's 100 finest routes in the Mont Blanc massif, 10 Routes to Climb in Chamonix in Winter.

QuentinSu 03/Nov/17 AltLd O/S
Hidden 10/Oct/17 AltLd O/S
DaveThexton 10/Oct/17 AltLd O/S
Hidden 09/Oct/17 -
Hidden 07/Oct/17 AltLd
SeánM 06/Oct/17 AltLd O/S
adie84 ??/2017 -
Hidden 08/May/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/Mar/16 AltLd O/S
Jack Geldard ??/2016 -
Hidden ??/2016 -
Hidden 30/Dec/15 AltLd O/S
jimmatthews 30/Dec/15 AltLd O/S

From first bin. Crux: My lead. Tricky move to get onto ice, the follwing was good.

Kyrros 10/Mar/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden 15/Feb/15 Solo β
Hidden 27/Oct/14 2nd
Hidden 27/Oct/14 Lead
darcan 07/Apr/14 AltLd

Very very thin ice

with vegarye
chapmand 12/Mar/14 AltLd O/S
with Rory Brown
Hidden 12/Mar/14 AltLd
edek_w 24/Feb/14 -

Incredible amount of snow!!! Very thin ice in the crux.

with Rafal Zajac
Hidden 13/Jan/14 Lead O/S
GraMc 31/Oct/13 Solo O/S

was my second big day out in a row so I was totally wasted trying to make it back up the midi arete!

Hidden 18/Apr/13 -
walts4 ??/2013 -
David Horwood 31/Oct/12 -
BorisVBlade 20/Oct/12 Lead O/S

Great climb. Started from first cable car. Snow conditions deteriorated when we got to the final gully leading to the top (avalanches) so were forced to pick a mixed route though the rock on the right. Was still very enjoyable.

with Markus Roggen
Hidden ?/Oct/12 AltLd dog
Rob84 02/Apr/12 AltLd O/S
with Rob Adie
mikeyjbs 31/Mar/12 AltLd dog
with Big Lee
Big Lee 31/Mar/12 AltLd O/S

Route was very busy. My partner at one point had about five roped teams climbing around him in close proximity. An excellent route though with a superb crux pitch.

Hidden 07/Mar/12 -
Neil Adams 28/Feb/12 AltLd O/S
with Heike
Heike 28/Feb/12 AltLd
Alasdair Fulton 21/Feb/12 AltLd O/S


with James Sutton
liamo333 ??/2012 -
Hidden 20/Jul/11 -
Exodus 13/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

Good climb, ice getting a little thin. Delayed 1st car meant we missed the last car down. Uncomfortable night in toilets and Gareth missed his flight home!

with Gareth
Hidden ?/Mar/11 AltLd
stuart34 09/Feb/11 AltLd O/S

Wicked, soloed majority of route

with Ben, Niel
Ally Baba 03/Feb/11 Lead O/S
with Damo
Hidden ??/2011 -
Rich Cross - Alpine Guides ?/Oct/08 AltLd
with Es Tressider
Hidden ?/Jan/07 AltLd dnf
zero six ??/2007 AltLd dnf

team implosion

Jim Walton 18/Mar/00 AltLd O/S
with Ed Cartwright
Hidden ??/1995 -
GaryK ?/Jan/90 AltLd O/S

Climbed it from the first cable car in the morning and just missed the last one down that night. Spent a warmish night outside the toilets in the station.

with Simon Yates
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Style of ascent
Alt Leads
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Flashed (β)
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