This is the original escape route from the great chasm. Start a few feet past the leaning pinnacle, climb the slanting cracks in the left wall to the level of the capstone. The first is easy; the second is steeper but on big holds. There is an awkward move onto the spikey block on the right before a long traverse left leads to the top of the capstone and out to dry land!.

Ticklists

A grand easy welsh day out, North Wales Rock Graded List, North Wales 100 Classic Climbs, UK Lonely Leads

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Logged Ascents

UserDateStyleNotes & Partners
Hidden 23 Mar Solo
Allanfairfechan 1 Jul, 2018 Lead
with Mike Hendrick
with Mike Hendrick
rockcat 28 Jun, 2018 2nd O/S A spooky and atmospheric experience. Good holds and rock but understandably dirty. Done during a heatwave so entirely dry.
A spooky and atmospheric experience. Good holds and rock but understandably dirty. Done during a heatwave so entirely dry.
michael burrows 28 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S
with rockcat
with rockcat
SimonMarcYoung 8 Jul, 2017 2nd O/S Great route, bit nerving given how wet the route is, very fun though
with payne93
Great route, bit nerving given how wet the route is, very fun though
with payne93
payne93 8 Jul, 2017 Lead
Climbingspike ??, 2016 -
Hidden 18 Oct, 2015 Lead O/S
caradoc 10 Jun, 2015 Solo O/S A slightly unnerving solo on damp and suspect holds. The final chamber below the exit pitch is a gripping and impressive place. A unique route, glad I have done it.
A slightly unnerving solo on damp and suspect holds. The final chamber below the exit pitch is a gripping and impressive place. A unique route, glad I have done it.
JenRoberts 24 Jun, 2014 AltLd O/S
with Hannah
with Hannah
HB-Pencil 24 Jun, 2014 AltLd
JamesLloyd ?Apr, 2014 AltLd O/S
Nick Biven ??, 2014 -
Hidden 10 Jul, 2013 Lead O/S
Hidden 1 Apr, 2013 2nd
Goose4 14 Oct, 2012 -
with Neil Christie, Paul Mccusker, georgehumphery, Adam Strickland, preet s
with Neil Christie, Paul Mccusker, georgehumphery, Adam Strickland, preet s
tumbling wizard ??, 2012 Lead
matt perks ??, 2012 -
Hidden ??, 2012 -
zukator ??, 2012 -
MoWalker3 31 Dec, 2011 - Rain and slime for a classic.
with Cormac
Rain and slime for a classic.
with Cormac
Jenny Clarke ?Jul, 2011 2nd a little bit scary....
a little bit scary....
Jon Ellis 1 Apr, 2011 -
with Chris Ellis Jr
with Chris Ellis Jr
Charliehbolton 14 Feb, 2011 Sent O/S Thick snow and strong winds meaning the lakes and waterfalls were frozen solid.
Thick snow and strong winds meaning the lakes and waterfalls were frozen solid.
ollieben ??, 2011 -
Hidden ??, 2011 -
Hidden ??, 2011 -
onlyfoddington 30 Oct, 2010 2nd dog Very wet and cold
Very wet and cold
Hidden 5 Sep, 2010 Solo O/S
Sarahcrowsley 15 Nov, 2009 2nd
Hidden ?Oct, 2009 Solo O/S
theotherpetehill 9 Sep, 2009 Solo Got off route onto the direct version (VS) but figured it out in the end. Incredible place!
Got off route onto the direct version (VS) but figured it out in the end. Incredible place!
StuartDanger ?Dec, 2008 Lead
with Garry Kingsnorth
with Garry Kingsnorth
Glyn Davidson 24 May, 2008 2nd O/S
with Martin W
with Martin W
Jayney D ?Feb, 2008 2nd dnf Very entertaining due to the amount of water coming down from the hills.
with Joss and Wills
Very entertaining due to the amount of water coming down from the hills.
with Joss and Wills
SebCa 2 Jun, 2007 AltLd O/S I led the main 25m pitch, we started up the direct finish (vs) got about 10m up and decided it was a bit heavy in the rain so abb'd down to the capstone bit and traversed across, superb days mountaineering. Keith led the nice 10m traverse out (BASTARD)
I led the main 25m pitch, we started up the direct finish (vs) got about 10m up and decided it was a bit heavy in the rain so abb'd down to the capstone bit and traversed across, superb days mountaineering. Keith led the nice 10m traverse out (BASTARD)
daviesp2 27 May, 2007 2nd
Lizzy Andrew 13 Mar, 2007 2nd
with Steve Franklin, Peter Hooker
with Steve Franklin, Peter Hooker
Ian McNeill ??, 2006 -
Sut 18 May, 2004 Lead O/S
Stone Muppet ??, 2004 - wet weather epic!
with mw
wet weather epic!
with mw
Ann S ?Jun, 2002 2nd
with Bill Harrison
with Bill Harrison
Hidden ?Jan, 1999 2nd O/S
alan moore ??, 1999 -
babymoac 28 Jun, 1997 -
with GrahamD
with GrahamD
mikej 9 Aug, 1995 Lead
with Maff W
with Maff W
Ian Archer 1 Jul, 1995 Lead O/S Very Atmospheric. Everyone should do this route.
with Paul Rogers
Very Atmospheric. Everyone should do this route.
with Paul Rogers
Hidden ?Sep, 1993 Lead O/S
Gordon Stainforth 4 Aug, 1989 2nd Photographic project. A very advanced route for 1898! About MVS, really, on slimy rock and not v well protected.
with Gareth--. Lisa--
Photographic project. A very advanced route for 1898! About MVS, really, on slimy rock and not v well protected.
with Gareth--. Lisa--
Brian Wilderspin 12 May, 1985 Lead rpt With a party of colleagues from BAe.
With a party of colleagues from BAe.
rogerskews 10 Mar, 1985 AltLd
with Richard Walters, John Blackburn, Martin Coward
with Richard Walters, John Blackburn, Martin Coward
nigehughes ?Jul, 1984 Lead
with Adrian Hughes
with Adrian Hughes
Hidden ??, 1980 Solo
Sean Kelly ??, 1980 -
with Bob Millward
with Bob Millward
Mark Kemball 5 Nov, 1977 Lead
with Sarah Bridge
with Sarah Bridge
Mark Kemball 5 Nov, 1977 Lead Foul weather - soaked to skin.
with Sarah Bridge
Foul weather - soaked to skin.
with Sarah Bridge
Brian Wilderspin ?Oct, 1977 2nd Very Wet
with Perric Crellin
Very Wet
with Perric Crellin
Brian Wilderspin ?Jun, 1977 Solo
Bolt Phobia 7 Dec, 1975 AltLd Weather foul.
Weather foul.
Hidden ??, 1975 Solo
Bob M ?Jun, 1974 -
with Geraldine King
with Geraldine King
granitbahn ??, 1969 AltLd
auldscotal ??, 1967 Lead O/S interesting traverse on dodgy flakes - probably now gone
with John Jones
interesting traverse on dodgy flakes - probably now gone
with John Jones
auldscotal ??, 1965 Lead O/S I remember putting rope loops for runners over dodgy spikes on the traverse - great situation.
with John Jones
I remember putting rope loops for runners over dodgy spikes on the traverse - great situation.
with John Jones
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Style of ascent
Lead
Followed
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Bouldered
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
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Repeated
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