390m, 10 pitches.
Climbs a wandering and confusing line, with many variations and alternatives of similar grades. This is not a sport climb and has limited fixed gear. Most of what does exist is old and scary. Some of the belays have new ab bolts, and safe escape is possible (from up to just before the three chimneys pitch) by abseiling right down the buttress edge. For the harder sections fixed gear is better, but this is an adventure route and long may it remain so.

A. Rabadá, E. Navarro 18/Oct/1961

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
ian bryant 16 Oct, 2019 Lead O/S
Dr Toph 12 Oct, 2019 AltLd
with salix
with salix
salix 12 Oct, 2019 AltLd O/S Led 1 and 3, got lost and missed belay so ended up on belay at top of fourth pitch - seemed like a common line though. Carried on swinging leads from there.
with Dr Toph
Led 1 and 3, got lost and missed belay so ended up on belay at top of fourth pitch - seemed like a common line though. Carried on swinging leads from there.
with Dr Toph
salix 14 Mar, 2019 AltLd dnf Started late, and struggled with wind and route finding. Some absolutely incredible pitches though, so one to come back for.
with Dr Toph
Started late, and struggled with wind and route finding. Some absolutely incredible pitches though, so one to come back for.
with Dr Toph
Dr Toph 14 Mar, 2019 AltLd dnf Freezing, strong wind and perplexing route finding. Decided that bailing was the sensible thing to do, rather than top-out in the middle of the night!
with salix
Freezing, strong wind and perplexing route finding. Decided that bailing was the sensible thing to do, rather than top-out in the middle of the night!
with salix
dan gibson 11 Mar, 2015 Lead O/S A great adventure route. Belays are good. Fixed pitons and threads of variable quality and the odd new bolt on the pitches. I only took seven nuts and five slings and a single rope. The rock is very good despite apperances. A completely different exprrience than Fiesta de los biceps!
with Eszter
A great adventure route. Belays are good. Fixed pitons and threads of variable quality and the odd new bolt on the pitches. I only took seven nuts and five slings and a single rope. The rock is very good despite apperances. A completely different exprrience than Fiesta de los biceps!
with Eszter
Hidden 11 Mar, 2015 2nd O/S
Paul Robertson 31 Mar, 2008 2nd dnf Retreated from about two-thirds height. We were hopelessly ill-prepared, having been told that this was a very popular route with mainly fixed gear ("...you just need a few medium sized nuts/friends"). We had no detailed description, just a hand made copy of the photo topo from the guide. Not surprisingly things didn't go well. It's worth knowing that there are at least 5 new abseil stations at roughly 30m intervals above the start. Not sure how many of these actually correspond to belays on the route. Take a full rack, lots of long extenders and slings and be prepared for rope drag, difficult communication and difficult route-finding.
Retreated from about two-thirds height. We were hopelessly ill-prepared, having been told that this was a very popular route with mainly fixed gear ("...you just need a few medium sized nuts/friends"). We had no detailed description, just a hand made copy of the photo topo from the guide. Not surprisingly things didn't go well. It's worth knowing that there are at least 5 new abseil stations at roughly 30m intervals above the start. Not sure how many of these actually correspond to belays on the route. Take a full rack, lots of long extenders and slings and be prepared for rope drag, difficult communication and difficult route-finding.
ajtay 23 Feb, 2008 AltLd dnf Will return abbed off with 4 pitches to go - daylight hours too short in Feb. What a route! 5+ 6A moves 10 metres above poor threads ensures a high adventure factor. Local knowledge advised us to go left after the chimney pitch, but many go right and around as in guidebook, and its possible to go direct as well. Though not hard, these pitches seem to be key because of a lack of fixed gear and route finding confusion. Overall the climbing is not strenuous, and is always in positions with outrageous exposure. Drink in every moment!
with Jake Jackson
Will return abbed off with 4 pitches to go - daylight hours too short in Feb. What a route! 5+ 6A moves 10 metres above poor threads ensures a high adventure factor. Local knowledge advised us to go left after the chimney pitch, but many go right and around as in guidebook, and its possible to go direct as well. Though not hard, these pitches seem to be key because of a lack of fixed gear and route finding confusion. Overall the climbing is not strenuous, and is always in positions with outrageous exposure. Drink in every moment!
with Jake Jackson
kevin stephens ?Oct, 2006 - Fantastic climb but a sport grade does not really describe it. Think of it as a big serious mountain top end E3 5c, run outs, sketchy gear, challenging route finding, commitment, awesome exposure, some loose rock, etc
Fantastic climb but a sport grade does not really describe it. Think of it as a big serious mountain top end E3 5c, run outs, sketchy gear, challenging route finding, commitment, awesome exposure, some loose rock, etc
Hidden ?Feb, 2006 -
Hidden 28 Mar, 2005 AltLd
WB ?Sep, 2000 AltLd O/S This is not a sport climb
with GuyM
This is not a sport climb
with GuyM
GuyM ?Sep, 2000 AltLd amazing route - circling vultures ominous, belays exciting. locals thought we were mad as its not bolted
with WB
amazing route - circling vultures ominous, belays exciting. locals thought we were mad as its not bolted
with WB
4 users have this on their wishlist
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Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Followed
Lead
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Not Set