130m.
4c,5b,5c.
This is the deep chimney and groove on the west face. It is fully equipped with good new bolts and abseil rings on the belays. Move out of the chimney to the right after the first set of ring bolts and then follow the deep groove / chimney to another belay point. Follow the groove chimney above in a wild position, trying not to think what is holding the rock together, to reach another belay on top of a small pillar. Climb the short wall behind to belay on the summit via ferrata cable. Descend by abseil back down the route, one short ab to last belay, then two full 60 metre lengths. With a single rope of 70m its possible to descend the normal rote on the N face.
Superb, exposed climbing, slightly less intimidating than Los Mallos! We did it on a rest day.
This is the deep chimney and groove on the west face. It is fully equipped with good new bolts and abseil rings on the belays. Move out of the chimney to the right after the first set of ring bolts and then follow the deep groove / chimney to another belay point. Follow the groove chimney above in a wild position, trying not to think what is holding the rock together, to reach another belay on top of a small pillar. Climb the short wall behind to belay on the summit via ferrata cable. Descend by abseil back down the route, one short ab to last belay, then two full 60 metre lengths. With a single rope of 70m its possible to descend the normal rote on the N face.
Superb, exposed climbing, slightly less intimidating than Los Mallos! We did it on a rest day.
Rabada and Cintero 02/Jun/1957.
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Route of Interest
Espolon del Gallego
Grade: 5c ***
(Pena Rueba)