200m, 5 pitches. From the summit of Pen y Fan, descend the north ridge for 150m, past an obvious gully on the right. Immediately after this, take a steep-ish subsidiary ridge right (east) that leads down towards the NE face. Contour around the bottom of the face for 100-150m until you arrive at wide rubble filled gully, initially running diagonally up rightwards, with several mixed steps leading up towards the steep headwall, a prominent rib on it's right side and a less well defined gully/wide groove on the left. Follow the wide gully, easily at first until a short ice step provides the first technicality. Above this are two further rock steps, both mixed and separated by sections of snow, followed by the turfy headwall taking the line of least resistance.

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Donny M 23 Dec, 2018 -
alexm198 10 Feb, 2018 Solo O/S Lean conditions but turf well frozen in places. Backed off the direct finish as turf was too aerated for my soloing tastes...
Lean conditions but turf well frozen in places. Backed off the direct finish as turf was too aerated for my soloing tastes...
Hidden 14 Jan, 2017 -
dkilner 14 Jan, 2017 2nd Kicked through cornice on far right gully. Through 3 ice steps on central gully before trending left to finish. Lovely day out!
Kicked through cornice on far right gully. Through 3 ice steps on central gully before trending left to finish. Lovely day out!
Hidden 15 Feb, 2015 -
Cardi 9 Feb, 2015 Solo O/S Blue sky day, starting to melt quite quickly.
Blue sky day, starting to melt quite quickly.
Nigel R Lewis 8 Feb, 2015 Solo Good ice on lower step but only soft snow and frozen turf on headwall
with Steve Kedward
Good ice on lower step but only soft snow and frozen turf on headwall
with Steve Kedward
gethin_allen 8 Feb, 2015 Solo Started up the top headwall and then traversed out to the left on a bit of a ledge to finish when the going got too mingin to be soloing.
Started up the top headwall and then traversed out to the left on a bit of a ledge to finish when the going got too mingin to be soloing.
Hidden 7 Feb, 2015 Lead O/S
sheelba 7 Feb, 2015 AltLd Climbed through an inversion, gorgeous with plenty of ice in the steps, although the inversion meant that the turf at the top was not frozen
Climbed through an inversion, gorgeous with plenty of ice in the steps, although the inversion meant that the turf at the top was not frozen
Steve Bartle 7 Feb, 2015 2nd O/S Great conditions. Decent ice on the 3 ice sections and turf frozen all the way up. Finished up through the headwall via the line of least resistance.
Great conditions. Decent ice on the 3 ice sections and turf frozen all the way up. Finished up through the headwall via the line of least resistance.
Hidden 1 Feb, 2015 AltLd rpt
dkilner 1 Feb, 2015 AltLd
Hidden 1 Feb, 2015 AltLd O/S
clams ?Feb, 2015 Lead
with Catherine and Chaz
with Catherine and Chaz
CatMc ?Feb, 2015 2nd
with Chaz, clams
with Chaz, clams
AndrewP 19 Jan, 2015 Solo Uphill swimming! Not really in condition - deep snow and little ice. Only II because I avoided the headwall by traversing right onto Central Rib then Near Right Gully near the top.
Uphill swimming! Not really in condition - deep snow and little ice. Only II because I avoided the headwall by traversing right onto Central Rib then Near Right Gully near the top.
Hidden ??, 2015 Lead O/S
deano 20 Jan, 2013 Solo
with Ryan stokes
with Ryan stokes
spearing05 15 Jan, 2013 - In the dark by starlight and head torch, avoided head wall due to getting late and slow going with loose snow. Fantastic
In the dark by starlight and head torch, avoided head wall due to getting late and slow going with loose snow. Fantastic
Hidden 15 Jan, 2013 AltLd rpt
Webster 11 Feb, 2012 Solo rpt barely climable any more, ice steps were very scetchy
barely climable any more, ice steps were very scetchy
Jim Brooke 11 Feb, 2012 Lead dnf Did the first step, had a look at a thin dripping pillar on the 2nd, then bailed into Near Left gully.
Did the first step, had a look at a thin dripping pillar on the 2nd, then bailed into Near Left gully.
richsmithinbristol 11 Feb, 2012 AltLd
katherinesydney 11 Feb, 2012 2nd dnf too warm. made it up the first ice step but traversed left onto marginally more climbable near left gully (good traverse!)
too warm. made it up the first ice step but traversed left onto marginally more climbable near left gully (good traverse!)
Poco Loco 5 Feb, 2012 AltLd O/S Rather warm. Thin ice on the steps, unconsolidated snow and semi-frozen turf. Nonetheless great fun!
Rather warm. Thin ice on the steps, unconsolidated snow and semi-frozen turf. Nonetheless great fun!
BALD EAGLE 5 Feb, 2012 AltLd
with James Pomeroy
with James Pomeroy
SteveK 4 Feb, 2012 Solo Skipped the headwall and veered off right to finish up central rib.
Skipped the headwall and veered off right to finish up central rib.
Ross Davidson 4 Feb, 2012 AltLd O/S Found a nice ice pillar half way up which was probably V,5 but only 5m. At the top I lead a corner (IV, 4/5). Possible first ascent?
Found a nice ice pillar half way up which was probably V,5 but only 5m. At the top I lead a corner (IV, 4/5). Possible first ascent?
Hidden 4 Feb, 2012 Solo
Hidden 4 Feb, 2012 Solo O/S
sdi 4 Feb, 2012 Solo O/S Better lower down. Somehow it seemed to get less frozen as I went up... Still, got back down in time for lunch.
Better lower down. Somehow it seemed to get less frozen as I went up... Still, got back down in time for lunch.
Hidden 3 Feb, 2012 AltLd O/S
spearing05 3 Feb, 2012 AltLd Both steps climbed - escaped to the righ on approach to head wall as snow/ice/turf was melting
Both steps climbed - escaped to the righ on approach to head wall as snow/ice/turf was melting
Hidden 2 Feb, 2012 Lead O/S
alexei.nicholas 2 Feb, 2012 2nd Great fun!y first winter route! Seemed rather unprotected
with James91
Great fun!y first winter route! Seemed rather unprotected
with James91
steve-grigg 1 Feb, 2012 2nd
Webster 1 Feb, 2012 Lead O/S thin, with some good ice and frozen turf of a mixed quality. unconsolidated snow. took a diagonal left trending line out of the top of the gully. currently grade 3 with possible harder lines.
thin, with some good ice and frozen turf of a mixed quality. unconsolidated snow. took a diagonal left trending line out of the top of the gully. currently grade 3 with possible harder lines.
petecox84 ??, 2012 -
simonf 8 Dec, 2010 Solo
JamieGreig 7 Dec, 2010 Solo O/S Minus the headwall.
Minus the headwall.
d_meacher 5 Dec, 2010 Lead rpt
with Michael Mordan, Lucy Rouse
with Michael Mordan, Lucy Rouse
ISavage 5 Dec, 2010 2nd Went left at the top. Led the last pitch. Ice falls were thin, a fair amount of unconsolidated snow still.
Went left at the top. Led the last pitch. Ice falls were thin, a fair amount of unconsolidated snow still.
SamStokes 8 Jan, 2010 Solo O/S
Hidden 3 Jan, 2010 Lead
sdi 1 Jan, 2010 Solo dnf Ran away to the much more appealing looking Central Rib after a semi-spectacular detachment from about 2 feet up the first step - I blame my picks BUT I WOULD WOULDN'T I?! Surely any subsequent attempts will count as onsight?
Ran away to the much more appealing looking Central Rib after a semi-spectacular detachment from about 2 feet up the first step - I blame my picks BUT I WOULD WOULDN'T I?! Surely any subsequent attempts will count as onsight?
Hidden 1 Jan, 2010 AltLd
Hidden 1 Jan, 2010 2nd
Hidden 1 Jan, 2010 AltLd O/S
Hidden 1 Jan, 2010 Lead O/S
Hidden 1 Jan, 2010 AltLd O/S
gripped01 ?Jan, 2010 Solo
with Alex Tomczynski
with Alex Tomczynski
Hidden ??, 2010 -
BenTiffin 23 Dec, 2009 AltLd Finished up the right arete at the top. Lots of unconsolidated snow and consolidated turf.
with Ellen Hughes
Finished up the right arete at the top. Lots of unconsolidated snow and consolidated turf.
with Ellen Hughes
Cardi 23 Dec, 2009 AltLd Couple of pitched sections. Lots of unconsolidated snow, some icy bits. Turf was good. Fantastic winter experience so close to home
with Ryan
Couple of pitched sections. Lots of unconsolidated snow, some icy bits. Turf was good. Fantastic winter experience so close to home
with Ryan
Hidden 23 Dec, 2009 Solo O/S
d_meacher 7 Feb, 2009 AltLd O/S
with Sarah Joyce & Flash
with Sarah Joyce & Flash
Rob84 7 Feb, 2009 Solo O/S
dave1 7 Feb, 2009 AltLd O/S Snow and Ice conditions. Climbed this route and also Rib on right. Heavy powder conditions, but ice in gully. Full on crampons and 2 axes. Pitched the ice but otherwise climbed together. Fun!! (Also around this time did two icefalls on Rhigos, with Keith, Gareth and Hywel)
with Keith Anderson
Snow and Ice conditions. Climbed this route and also Rib on right. Heavy powder conditions, but ice in gully. Full on crampons and 2 axes. Pitched the ice but otherwise climbed together. Fun!! (Also around this time did two icefalls on Rhigos, with Keith, Gareth and Hywel)
with Keith Anderson
molemug1 ?Feb, 2009 Lead
Wildy 20 Jul, 2008 Solo O/S Walked / ran into the valley under the 1000 ft north face. Armed with nought but a pair of off-road running shoes, a (walking) ice axe and a grin. Having walked / climbed up the north face of Cribbyn for practice. I aimed to meadander up the middle and then go right - towards the tourist walking path (from Brecon), but half way up realised the gullies were full of very loose boulders (it was summer). That meant backing down the way I'd came or going straight up the middle... I thought, "Aww,... that don't look too bad" so I went for it. It got steeper and steeper until around 200 feet from the top it went vertical with the odd tiny over hang... By now I was cacking it, 800 feet up and 200 feet unroped above me. I began to say a mantra to my self "I'm in my garden, I'm in my garden" and concentrated only on the next six foot above me... Some of the boulders I hooked rocked as I pulled on them (it's vertical turf n boulder)... By now I was near shouting the mantra... Now unbeknown to me, an old chap had walked up the tourist path and was leaning over the drop because he could hear some one shouting that they were in their garden !! My last swing (onto the top) nearly went through his foot! We laughed about it soon afterwards... and I told myself not to climb crappy vertical mud in the summer again. Pen-y-Fan (north face) is far harder than Cribbyn north face... :-) Hope you enjoyed my account...
Walked / ran into the valley under the 1000 ft north face. Armed with nought but a pair of off-road running shoes, a (walking) ice axe and a grin. Having walked / climbed up the north face of Cribbyn for practice. I aimed to meadander up the middle and then go right - towards the tourist walking path (from Brecon), but half way up realised the gullies were full of very loose boulders (it was summer). That meant backing down the way I'd came or going straight up the middle... I thought, "Aww,... that don't look too bad" so I went for it. It got steeper and steeper until around 200 feet from the top it went vertical with the odd tiny over hang... By now I was cacking it, 800 feet up and 200 feet unroped above me. I began to say a mantra to my self "I'm in my garden, I'm in my garden" and concentrated only on the next six foot above me... Some of the boulders I hooked rocked as I pulled on them (it's vertical turf n boulder)... By now I was near shouting the mantra... Now unbeknown to me, an old chap had walked up the tourist path and was leaning over the drop because he could hear some one shouting that they were in their garden !! My last swing (onto the top) nearly went through his foot! We laughed about it soon afterwards... and I told myself not to climb crappy vertical mud in the summer again. Pen-y-Fan (north face) is far harder than Cribbyn north face... :-) Hope you enjoyed my account...
Hidden 25 Mar, 2008 AltLd
billyeatspies ?Sep, 1998 AltLd
alan moore ??, 1988 Solo Done as a summer route first!
Done as a summer route first!
nigehughes ?Feb, 1987 AltLd
with Tim Gibb
with Tim Gibb
Hidden 11 Jan, 1987 Solo
deepstar ?Jan, 1984 -
with B. Elliott., Andy Wooley, ducksworth
with B. Elliott., Andy Wooley, ducksworth
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Voting
High III
Mid III
Low III
High II/III
Mid II/III
Low II/III
High II
Mid II
Low II
Votes cast 12
Votes cast 11
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Soloed
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Not Set