59m, 2 pitches. A superb direct line up the middle of the Main Face to reach the middle of Virgo ledge, with an independent finish on the crag above. Start - 2m right of Lunar Wall at a small V-shaped recess.
1) 5c, 35m. Climb groove in back of recess to stance. Step up to flake at arete and climb shallow corner to gain square-cut ledge on the arete. Move up and right to good cracks (crux) leading up the wall to below a final small overhang. Climb directly up through this to reach the Virgo ledge.
2) 5a, 24m. From the right-hand end of the large overhang to the right of Virgo Pitch 4 make an ascending leftwards traverse back over the overhang to gain the nose which is followed to the top.

R.Greene, R. Cowan (Two aid points). /69. S. Billane (One aid point). 9/75. E. Cooper, T. Ryan (First free ascent). /83

Ticklists

3 Star Mournes, MRes Ticklist, Ireland 3 Star E1-E2, Ireland 3 Star Multipitches

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Lorcan Quinn 14 May Lead β
Thee_isness 11 May 2nd dnf Second with Aaron
Second with Aaron
Adam Timmons 1 May AltLd dog Class route, got to get back and lead the first pitch for myself
Class route, got to get back and lead the first pitch for myself
Hidden 21 Jul, 2018 Lead
Hidden 21 Jul, 2018 2nd
dcussen 21 Jul, 2018 Lead O/S Great route with some tricky sections of climbing.
with Kev
Great route with some tricky sections of climbing.
with Kev
kenneM 18 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S Really great route - hard E2 or easy E3 who knows !
Really great route - hard E2 or easy E3 who knows !
Hidden 17 Jul, 2018 AltLd
Rory_Cummings_NI 16 Jul, 2018 Lead O/S just top pitch
with Ali
just top pitch
with Ali
KKilroy ?Jul, 2018 2nd rpt Well cleaned recently by Jonny Parr! Great work! Thanks Jonny!
with Dave Cussen
Well cleaned recently by Jonny Parr! Great work! Thanks Jonny!
with Dave Cussen
David Craig 24 Jun, 2018 Lead G/U Brilliant steep climbing.
with Sile Daly
Brilliant steep climbing.
with Sile Daly
Hidden 8 Jun, 2018 2nd O/S
Stanners 8 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S pitch 2. Awesome adventure
with Kel Vargas, Dave Pickford
pitch 2. Awesome adventure
with Kel Vargas, Dave Pickford
DaveWhite13 31 May, 2018 Lead rpt Nearly broke ciaran
with Ciaran
Nearly broke ciaran
with Ciaran
DaveWhite13 12 May, 2018 Lead O/S P1 Steep and sustained. Quality climb from start to finish. Gear awesome. Tad mossy in places P2 slabby goodness with pretty decent gear Worthy of 4 stars. And super comfy belays
with The Wife
P1 Steep and sustained. Quality climb from start to finish. Gear awesome. Tad mossy in places P2 slabby goodness with pretty decent gear Worthy of 4 stars. And super comfy belays
with The Wife
kylos8048 14 May, 2017 Lead Led crux pitch clean before the heavens opened so finished up virgo blocks instead of the slick looking traverse. E2 5c is fair but crux takes a bit of psych to commit to it.
with eva
Led crux pitch clean before the heavens opened so finished up virgo blocks instead of the slick looking traverse. E2 5c is fair but crux takes a bit of psych to commit to it.
with eva
Hidden 27 Aug, 2016 Lead
Martin Bagshaw 27 May, 2016 AltLd O/S Very hard for the grade, had to resort to some sport climber moves to recover at the top of the first pitch! Agree with the other guy; GBH on the prow is easier than this!
with Tom Hudson
Very hard for the grade, had to resort to some sport climber moves to recover at the top of the first pitch! Agree with the other guy; GBH on the prow is easier than this!
with Tom Hudson
jhill ??, 2015 -
Hidden 6 Jul, 2014 Lead O/S
KKilroy 25 Apr, 2014 Lead O/S Absolute quality start to finish. Well protected steep climbing with sustained climbing throughout and a good testy crux.
with emma Thompson, caelan
Absolute quality start to finish. Well protected steep climbing with sustained climbing throughout and a good testy crux.
with emma Thompson, caelan
RKernan 17 Jul, 2013 Lead dnf The crux is hard as nails. Downclimbed to rest a few times, Could not figure it out. Eventually went for it and fell off exhausted. Otherwise solid E2 - the last few moves looked fine. Felt harder than GBH at Fair Head!
with Sinéad
The crux is hard as nails. Downclimbed to rest a few times, Could not figure it out. Eventually went for it and fell off exhausted. Otherwise solid E2 - the last few moves looked fine. Felt harder than GBH at Fair Head!
with Sinéad
Sinéad 17 Jul, 2013 2nd
with RKernan
with RKernan
Hidden 6 Oct, 2012 Lead O/S
Hidden 6 Oct, 2012 2nd dnf
8 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 4
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 3
Votes cast 2
Style of ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Repeated
Ground Up
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Not Set