200m, 3 pitches. P1 Climb on right hand ice initially, then left on steep snow ice. Cut back right to belay on two rusty pegs and a big cam (30m).
P2 Take the short, steep icefall direct, pulling over the bulge to the iced up rocks on the left. Move up and right on snow, through a groove to belay 10m beyond on a peg and some good nuts (40m).
P3 Snow plod to the top (+ Cornice).

Ticklists: Cold Climbs.

benclimbing 14/Mar/15 AltLd O/S

Straight forward climbing but not much in the way of protection! Bottom to the top of the difficulties in one long 70m pitch (moved together for 10m)

with graham boistelle
Tim Davies 14/Mar/15 Lead

Cruddy Couldn't find the peg belays and ice screws for psychological protection at times.

JS1346 11/Apr/13 2nd
Hidden 05/Apr/13 AltLd
GaryK 27/Feb/13 AltLd O/S

A slightly warm day made the neve soft, but the underlying ice was good. Used rocks, hexes and medium friends for rock protection + ice screws. Did a 30m pitch into the base of the corner, and then a 55m pitch up to a rock belay in the upper gully. Didn't quite reach the top with a 60m rope, about 10m short. Cornice was soft underneath, but good neve on the top for the pull over.

with Dan Bailey
Hidden 23/Feb/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 23/Feb/13 AltLd O/S
adie84 23/Feb/13 -
geoff b 14/Feb/12 AltLd

After the Wand we romped up this: had to shift as it began to thaw. A great day out.

with Dr. Nick
Hidden ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
morsy 06/Mar/11 AltLd
with gerhard mors
Hidden 01/Mar/11 Lead O/S
allyrocke 20/Feb/11 AltLd O/S
Liam Ingram 20/Feb/11 AltLd O/S

Ally lead hard pitch. Probably hard IV today due to the lack of gear.

Hidden ?/Feb/11 AltLd
ruaidh 29/Jan/11 Lead O/S

Some steep and insecure snow/ice on P1. One steep, icy step on P2. Pretty good climb, though the wand next door looked fabulous (was too busy unfortunately). Don't know how ukc has this as grade V. Felt easy-mid IV with a couple of scary bits.

with Zoe
Jim Walton 29/Jan/11 Lead O/S

Very enjoyable route. Good solid snow ice all the way. Made a Peg belay up and left of 2nd mail pitch, small angle required.

Hidden 29/Jan/11 2nd O/S
Cardi 23/Jan/11 AltLd O/S

Mike led P1 by a very steep ice start. The ice groove afterwards on the same pitch was very steep and cruddy snow ice with no gear. VI,4?! Found a very nice water ice pitch higher up which was really steep with bomber screws

with Mike Wild
Hidden ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden 23/Feb/10 Lead
Lenny 07/Feb/10 2nd O/S
with Pete
Jamie Simpson ??/2009 -
with Andy Munro
Hidden 18/Mar/06 AltLd
luckyjim ?/Feb/06 AltLd
with K Marsden
mike fenwick ?/Feb/04 AltLd
with Ben Pearce
brockers ??/2003 AltLd
with CarlZ
Hidden ??/2001 -
luckyjim ?/Jan/00 AltLd
with K Marsden
bandersnatch ??/2000 Lead
pingora 03/Jan/97 AltLd O/S
with Ewen Todd
Hidden 10/Mar/96 AltLd
nickcanute ?/Mar/96 AltLd
with keith bolton
Hidden ??/1996 Lead
pauldrew ??/1992 AltLd
Steve Crowe 07/Feb/88 Lead O/S
with Brian...
uphillnow ?/Feb/87 Lead

Unconsolidated snow,worrying.

with Andy Bennett, Brian barker
Richard Weller 10/Mar/85 Lead O/S
with Alan Walker
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High VI
Mid VI
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High V
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High IV
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