69m, 3 pitches. Start: In the basin at the centre of the wall. The route takes the thin crack line right up the middle of the wall. 1) 15m From the shallow scoop ascend the broken cracks and slabs to the basalt dyke. 2) 18m From the dyke follow the crack up steeply and diagonally left. Bridge up between flakes to a small stance. 3) 36m The crack gradually narrows and the crack steepens, but the line of the crack is followed to the top.

D.Scott, R.Shaw, D. Nicol Aug/1967

Ticklists: Victim Of Mathematics' Ticklist of Extreme Justice, Ireland 3 Star E1-E2.

Hidden 05/Aug/17 AltLd
LDudill 07/Jul/17 AltLd O/S

Absolutely epic and an outstanding piece of rock rising out of the ocean. Won Rock Paper Scissors for Crux pitch and psyched I did. Epic long ab all the way in, looks immense from the bottom and is a cool spot to belay. Nicholls did p1 and p2 together, p1 didn't have much good gear, a few rp's and was surprisingly a little trickier than I expected and is at a weird slabbly angle! Soon as you get into second pitch climbing quality is great and bomber gear. I then led the main pitch, and what a pitch, amazing rock, amazing gear, and amazing laybacking up and through Crux, which probably feels like it warrants 5c for a move. After that's it's cruisy and enjoyable climb again bomber cams all the way, then gets a little techy high up, but once I realised I just needed a high left foot and to just do a big rock over it was fine and lt felt secure. accident overcamed cam on Crux section and told Nicholls to just leave it rather than ruin pitch for him. Just got lowered putting few cams back in to get to gear and get it out, then reclimbed pitch on top rope, enjoyed it just at much second time! What a route, probably one of most enjoyable routes this year in a mega location, well worth the drive, even if we got freaked out with all the teddies !

with Tom nicholls
thetradlad 06/Jul/17 Lead O/S


with Ollie Willmot
Hidden 21/Jun/17 AltLd
ferdia 05/Jun/17 AltLd O/S
Andy Moles 05/Jun/17 AltLd

Led top pitch in heavy rain!

with Ferdia
Hoyes 02/Jun/17 AltLd O/S
with Dan L, Jon I
cymjt ?/Jun/17 AltLd O/S

Just bloody marvellous! I led p3, but actually though p2 had harder moves!

Hugh Irving 24/May/17 AltLd O/S
with George
George Ponsonby 24/May/17 AltLd O/S
davkeo 07/May/17 Lead O/S

Prob the best trad climb iv done here or anywhere else. The venue is incredible & the line is a thing of beauty. P3 is sustained. A day not to forget.

Ramon Marin 07/Jun/15 2nd O/S
with dave pickford
JohnBear 08/Aug/12 AltLd

Pitch 1 and 2 together.

with Katharine
Bry 24/Jun/12 AltLd O/S
with Simon, James
Hidden 24/Jun/12 AltLd O/S
KKilroy ??/2012 Lead O/S
with reyer, Emma Clarke
Hidden 31/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Mar/09 Lead O/S
Nigel Coe 10/Jun/08 -
with Amnon
Hidden ??/2007 AltLd O/S
rogerskews 30/May/90 AltLd O/S

Gob smacking line, superb and well worth three stars

with Bryn Roberts
steveboote ?/Jul/87 Lead

A great opportunity, watched by some fisherman in a boat in what was an epic 'stagecoach' expedition of 10 Liverpool young male offenders and 10 girls 'in care' walking/canoeing across the Ulster Way,..some other path , and another finish in Donegal. (Killibegs won a cup that year at football/ soccer I remember that)...a great route...the new photos make it look even greater

with Neil Gannon
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High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 3
Votes cast 3
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Alt Leads
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