UKC

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Surrounded by fantastic beaches the popular climbing area of Baggy point features excellent slab climbing on metamorphosed sandstone. With grades ranging from Mod to E7 with several routes graded XS. Have a look at the climbing on Cheesegrater Cliff and Concrete wall for something much more adventurous. 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 15 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

Following a review of climbing restrictions at Baggy Point, the historical restriction on the Long Rock was lifted in 2013. This means that both the Long Rock and the Promontory are unrestricted, but the remaining climbing areas from Scrattling Zawn to Concrete Wall inclusive and Central Walls to Slab Cove inclusive are still restricted for the duration of the nesting season.

There is still a slightly confusing white marker at the top of the descent to the Long Rock, however the restriction definitely no longer applies to this part of the headland. The National Trust are aware of this and will move the marker at some point in the future, but given a busy summer work schedule this may not be for some time. In the meantime, please feel free to access this part of the crag. Many thanks to the National Trust for their help with this.

25m. Description taken from new routes pages of http://javu.co.uk:

75ft The hardest route at Baggy Point is also the showpiece of the Cheesegrater, offering highly technical and sustained climbing with good but hard to place protection. Begin as for Headcleaner at the very top of the pedestal. Move right out across the break to a good cam 5 placement in the large hole in The Nightfishing. Make a difficult sequence to gain a jug high on the left, from where good small cams can be placed and another big move up left leads to a large oblong hole (no gear). Powerful moves up right gain more indefinite cracks and a good cam 2. Psyche up and make a final desperate lunge from a poor pinch into the finishing crack, where a good large wire protects the precarious final moves. FA Dave Pickford, Ian Parnell. August 2005 Climbed headpoint style after abseil inspection. All gear placed on lead.

Dave Pickford, Ian Parnell Aug/2005.

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Route of Interest
Just Revenge (Original)

Grade: E7 6b ***
(Anstey's Cove)

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