275m, 9 pitches. Starts on a pinkish slab high up to the left of the main cliff. A fine clean route with good situations.
1. 33m Climb the slab near its left edge to a stance just below the final steepening.
2. 33m VD Move around an awkward corner to the right and climb straight up the nose on small holds to easier ground.
3. 24m The ridge is easy for 12m then steepens and a traverse is made to a grass ledge with flake belay.
4. 30m The ridge steepens towards the First Step but holds become more plentiful. Climb over some flakes bearing right and up a shallow scoop to a stance.
5. 15m Traverse below the wall into the recess on the nose and climb the chimney in the corner to a ledge. 5a. 15m Zyta Variation - Climb the slanting crack on the left wall of the recess.
6. 15m Move left along the ledge and up a chimney to easy ground.
7. 90m Scramble along the level part of the ridge to a small col, then go up easy slabs to the foot of the second step.
8. 18m Traverse left until the wall is low enough to be climbed and go right up to the foot of a shallow groove.
9. 18m Climb the groove to the top of the Second Step.Above this about 100m of easy scrambling up the Third Step leads to the top of the crag.

See also 'Classic Routes' http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=1977

Alberry and Crofton, (CUMC), 1933. Zyta variation; Andre Kopczinski, 18.3.1951

Ticklists

Ireland 3 Star D-HS, The Big Easys, The Ridges of England, Wales and Ireland, Ireland 3 Star Multipitches

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Jonathan Purcell 15 May Solo O/S Good day required a bit of hitchhiking to get out to the climb and a 5km walk through a long stretch of private property. The Approach gets steep and the descant is very lose scree. The rock climbing is easy first pitch especially.
Good day required a bit of hitchhiking to get out to the climb and a 5km walk through a long stretch of private property. The Approach gets steep and the descant is very lose scree. The rock climbing is easy first pitch especially.
James Mulhall 31 Dec, 2018 AltLd O/S Wet starting slab was a little spooky in big boots. Rest of it was a grand day out!
Wet starting slab was a little spooky in big boots. Rest of it was a grand day out!
Seán Fortune 31 Dec, 2018 AltLd O/S Simuled in two pitches. Great fun to round off the year!
Simuled in two pitches. Great fun to round off the year!
GOS 8 Apr, 2018 AltLd rpt class day out; rockboots this time; route in excellent condition though the odd bit of slime; led first pitch which had lovely precise holds; in middle section we did more direct approaches rather than right which makes it more technical before all variations funnel together at top section
class day out; rockboots this time; route in excellent condition though the odd bit of slime; led first pitch which had lovely precise holds; in middle section we did more direct approaches rather than right which makes it more technical before all variations funnel together at top section
MusicalMountaineer 8 Apr, 2018 AltLd rpt It’s just not a Diff! It’s amazing. But it’s definit not a Diff. VDiff is fair. One of my favourites.
with Gerard O’Sullivan
It’s just not a Diff! It’s amazing. But it’s definit not a Diff. VDiff is fair. One of my favourites.
with Gerard O’Sullivan
tim91 25 Mar, 2018 Lead O/S
Caris Mcknight 25 Mar, 2018 2nd O/S First multi pitch route, looking forward to learning to lead and set up anchors so I can come back and lead some pitches!
with tim91
First multi pitch route, looking forward to learning to lead and set up anchors so I can come back and lead some pitches!
with tim91
discosucks 20 Mar, 2018 Lead O/S Great old day out! walk in isnt as bad as we thought .
Great old day out! walk in isnt as bad as we thought .
Seán McLoughlin 1 Jan, 2018 AltLd O/S
with Conor Murphy, Hugh Irving, Eoghan Cunningham
with Conor Murphy, Hugh Irving, Eoghan Cunningham
Hugh Irving 1 Jan, 2018 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??, 2018 -
George Ponsonby 31 Dec, 2017 AltLd O/S
Hidden 26 Aug, 2017 2nd
dannyserc 26 Aug, 2017 Lead O/S Glorious day. A bit damp at the bottom but rock was bone dry by the second pitch. Run out but easy going if you keep a clear head.
Glorious day. A bit damp at the bottom but rock was bone dry by the second pitch. Run out but easy going if you keep a clear head.
alan117c 5 Aug, 2017 Solo O/S
with Robin
with Robin
Artem Babichenko ?Aug, 2017 -
Hidden ?Aug, 2017 -
JasonOneEye 16 Jul, 2017 AltLd Very nice day out, no geat on the first pitch!
with Eogan O'Connell
Very nice day out, no geat on the first pitch!
with Eogan O'Connell
cameron_hall 16 Jul, 2017 AltLd Climbed in boots. Led P1 (crux) and can't remember the rest. (A reasonable amount of moving together was mixed in as well.)
with Pa Stritch
Climbed in boots. Led P1 (crux) and can't remember the rest. (A reasonable amount of moving together was mixed in as well.)
with Pa Stritch
MusicalMountaineer 15 Apr, 2017 Lead O/S 4*, and definitely as good climbing as Howling Ridge. Cheated and climbed in rock boots as weather threatened. VDiff 2a would probably be a fair grade as the first pitch is very spicy. Didn't agree with the guidebooks description on the lack of positive holds or gear, found and used loads! Pure class.
4*, and definitely as good climbing as Howling Ridge. Cheated and climbed in rock boots as weather threatened. VDiff 2a would probably be a fair grade as the first pitch is very spicy. Didn't agree with the guidebooks description on the lack of positive holds or gear, found and used loads! Pure class.
Diventure 12 Apr, 2017 Solo O/S
Hidden ?Mar, 2017 Solo
lucy32 5 Jun, 2016 Solo
GOS 17 Apr, 2016 AltLd O/S Avoided first pitch by walk up fully on left until scramble right to good ledge. 4 on 50m rope all in hiking boots. Good route but cold. Continued on to beinn an tsaighdura before dropping carefully off side bencorrbeg. Bairbre and Bertie Hickey seconded with style while John O'Connor soloed alongside
with Jimmy Laide
Avoided first pitch by walk up fully on left until scramble right to good ledge. 4 on 50m rope all in hiking boots. Good route but cold. Continued on to beinn an tsaighdura before dropping carefully off side bencorrbeg. Bairbre and Bertie Hickey seconded with style while John O'Connor soloed alongside
with Jimmy Laide
Hidden 28 Feb, 2016 Solo rpt
Brookey 28 Sep, 2015 -
Lee_Meaden 28 Sep, 2015 Solo O/S Long boggy hike in and strong gusting winds, great adventure. Down climb down the steep scree slope took longer than expected!
with Brookey
Long boggy hike in and strong gusting winds, great adventure. Down climb down the steep scree slope took longer than expected!
with Brookey
jusmeig 6 Sep, 2015 AltLd O/S Climbed yesterday on what we were told was the best day of the year so far :) We climbed the route in 6 pitches (4 + 6 are long scrambles) I climbed pitches 2 and 5, with 5 being probably the best in terms of exposure/climbing. I found Pitch 2 very short. There is basically 2 tricky moves with good gear that lead to a scramble to the base of the First Step. There is a large head height boulder, I would advise you belay before this, to the right of the wall where it is easier to pull onto. We made a route finding error here and belayed at the larger boulder. Karl had to climb a pretty steep section which was probably VS in rock boots. I tried it twice as second and fell, so took a detour and lowered to retrieve the gear. This section is clearly recogniseable as there is a strip of vegetation that runs up to overhanging rock (I think it might be the Zyta Variation??). Nightmare in boots, avoid unless you are less of a pussy than me. Pitch 5 was great fun, probably the best of the lot. It's well protected on big holds, but when clear gives the best sense of exposure and some epic views from the top. From the top of this pitch its an enjoyable scramble to the top of Carrot Ridge. Really nice route, well worth the 3 stars. I wore boots, but would wear rock shoes if I had them. The decent down the scree slop is not fun, I would put in the extra effort to take an alternative route.
Climbed yesterday on what we were told was the best day of the year so far :) We climbed the route in 6 pitches (4 + 6 are long scrambles) I climbed pitches 2 and 5, with 5 being probably the best in terms of exposure/climbing. I found Pitch 2 very short. There is basically 2 tricky moves with good gear that lead to a scramble to the base of the First Step. There is a large head height boulder, I would advise you belay before this, to the right of the wall where it is easier to pull onto. We made a route finding error here and belayed at the larger boulder. Karl had to climb a pretty steep section which was probably VS in rock boots. I tried it twice as second and fell, so took a detour and lowered to retrieve the gear. This section is clearly recogniseable as there is a strip of vegetation that runs up to overhanging rock (I think it might be the Zyta Variation??). Nightmare in boots, avoid unless you are less of a pussy than me. Pitch 5 was great fun, probably the best of the lot. It's well protected on big holds, but when clear gives the best sense of exposure and some epic views from the top. From the top of this pitch its an enjoyable scramble to the top of Carrot Ridge. Really nice route, well worth the 3 stars. I wore boots, but would wear rock shoes if I had them. The decent down the scree slop is not fun, I would put in the extra effort to take an alternative route.
Karl Wallace 5 Sep, 2015 AltLd O/S A very enjoyable climb. We won the weather lottery for this climb. No rain, little wind and sunshine throughout. Did this in 6 pitches. I lead pitch 1 & 3, seconded the 2nd & 5th. Pitches 4 & 6 were scrambles. Quartzite is really great for hand holds, not so great in hiking boots even when dry. We also made a route finding error by starting too far left on the third pitch. This resulted in me putting in two bits of gear at what I would grade HS (VS in hiking boots) before traversing to the intended route. I'd grade the climb VD overall due to a lack of protection in some areas and some long run outs.
with jusmeig
A very enjoyable climb. We won the weather lottery for this climb. No rain, little wind and sunshine throughout. Did this in 6 pitches. I lead pitch 1 & 3, seconded the 2nd & 5th. Pitches 4 & 6 were scrambles. Quartzite is really great for hand holds, not so great in hiking boots even when dry. We also made a route finding error by starting too far left on the third pitch. This resulted in me putting in two bits of gear at what I would grade HS (VS in hiking boots) before traversing to the intended route. I'd grade the climb VD overall due to a lack of protection in some areas and some long run outs.
with jusmeig
KKilroy 7 Aug, 2015 Lead O/S Class mountain route
with claire
Class mountain route
with claire
Rockclimberjames17 ?Aug, 2015 Lead
Irelando 30 Jul, 2015 Lead O/S
Duffyrm 7 Jun, 2015 Lead β
with Mano
with Mano
Harrison90 1 May, 2015 Lead O/S
Paul Collins 30 Dec, 2014 Lead With Andy and Tara. Not much gear on this route, first pitch is probably severe or above in winter boots (sketchy stuff!) A few small - medium sized cams would be handy if you plan on leading it, and a few wee wires, not much cracks for gear though!
With Andy and Tara. Not much gear on this route, first pitch is probably severe or above in winter boots (sketchy stuff!) A few small - medium sized cams would be handy if you plan on leading it, and a few wee wires, not much cracks for gear though!
Hidden 30 Dec, 2014 AltLd
Hidden 30 Dec, 2014 AltLd
mcgovern 30 Dec, 2014 Lead
with Kieran, Bren, Murphy
with Kieran, Bren, Murphy
franwhelan ?Aug, 2014 AltLd with poc
with poc
Hidden 9 Jun, 2014 Lead O/S
DMC 5 Aug, 2013 2nd O/S
Chris Murray 5 Aug, 2013 Lead Brilliant climb. Dan's first big mountain route (my 14 y/o son). The climbing and route finding are easy on this obvious and compelling line, but some of the pitches (2) are a bit run out. Steady enough, but not the sort of place you'd want to have a wobbler. Did the whole route roped because of Dan's inexperience. It took us 5 hours and 12 pitches. "Descended" via Bencollaghduff and Maumina pass for a fantastic mountain experience. Total time from car was 11hours. [EDIT: interesting to read that a party did the route the day before. Thought that someone had been there recently as we found a fresh lettuce leaf(!) at the base of the climb :) yummy!
with DMC
Brilliant climb. Dan's first big mountain route (my 14 y/o son). The climbing and route finding are easy on this obvious and compelling line, but some of the pitches (2) are a bit run out. Steady enough, but not the sort of place you'd want to have a wobbler. Did the whole route roped because of Dan's inexperience. It took us 5 hours and 12 pitches. "Descended" via Bencollaghduff and Maumina pass for a fantastic mountain experience. Total time from car was 11hours. [EDIT: interesting to read that a party did the route the day before. Thought that someone had been there recently as we found a fresh lettuce leaf(!) at the base of the climb :) yummy!
with DMC
karlc 4 Aug, 2013 AltLd
with Conor1
with Conor1
Conor1 4 Aug, 2013 AltLd O/S Great day - began in cloud, ended in glorious sunshine with fabulous views; led the bold second, well protected 4th and the 'magnificent' 6th pitch. Descended via the scree slope, which is not too bad - not worth walking all the way round to maumima pass IMO. Still took us almost 10 hours round trip from the road.
with karlc
Great day - began in cloud, ended in glorious sunshine with fabulous views; led the bold second, well protected 4th and the 'magnificent' 6th pitch. Descended via the scree slope, which is not too bad - not worth walking all the way round to maumima pass IMO. Still took us almost 10 hours round trip from the road.
with karlc
davepc 1 Jun, 2013 Solo
with doc, ciaran
with doc, ciaran
Hidden 6 Apr, 2013 Lead rpt
Davidmcneill125 20 Feb, 2013 Lead O/S
Hidden 8 Feb, 2013 AltLd O/S
NMM ??, 2013 Solo O/S
sweeney 24 Jun, 2012 -
99bolivar 6 May, 2012 2nd
with David Hick, Tim Josephy
with David Hick, Tim Josephy
goatee ??, 2012 Lead
with sheila o conner
with sheila o conner
Ronan O Keeffe 15 Oct, 2011 AltLd O/S Wet, done with mountain boots.
with Liam Fahy
Wet, done with mountain boots.
with Liam Fahy
goatee 12 Aug, 2010 -
Hidden 2 Aug, 2010 AltLd O/S
mcrtchly ?May, 2010 Lead O/S
Hidden 16 Apr, 2010 AltLd O/S
idmadden ??, 2010 Lead
darcan ??, 2010 AltLd
Hidden ??, 2010 -
Rob N 22 Aug, 2009 AltLd
liamo333 ??, 2009 AltLd O/S
snowy owl 31 May, 2008 AltLd
with Brian Quinn
with Brian Quinn
ill_bill ?Jun, 2001 AltLd
pigeonjim ??, 2001 Solo O/S In walking boots.
In walking boots.
Iain Thow 17 Nov, 1990 Solo Loved one local's description -"it's graded Diff, the crux is about Mild Severe, but it's a scramble really". When I got there I knew exactly what he meant. Great fun.
Loved one local's description -"it's graded Diff, the crux is about Mild Severe, but it's a scramble really". When I got there I knew exactly what he meant. Great fun.
Gordon Stainforth 4 Jul, 1976 Solo I remember this as one of the best soloing experiences of my climbing career. A beautiful route with a short section of ? Severe low down and then it's Diff or easier, on beautiful rock, particularly a steep section near top full of hidden pockets.
I remember this as one of the best soloing experiences of my climbing career. A beautiful route with a short section of ? Severe low down and then it's Diff or easier, on beautiful rock, particularly a steep section near top full of hidden pockets.
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