UKC

180m, 5 pitches.

Rockfax Description
(The Hummingbird) Three fine pitches lead to the upper grass terrace. From here the usual way on is to join Spurven, but breaking right up the Direct Crack (originally a variation on Spurven) gives the best climbing. Start at the base of the large left-trending hollow flake.
1) N4, 30m. Climb and walk up the crest of the flake to a small belay. A precarious, scary and unprotected pitch despite its friendly grade, not for the faint-hearted.
2) N5-, 30m. Continue up to the roof then traverse right across a slab (often wet) below the roof to its right-hand end, and layback up a steep crack around the roof. Climb grassy cracks onto the large terrace and belay at the base of a thin vertical crack.
3) N6-, 50m. Climb the crack (some grass) which becomes a thin seam, then step right delicately into the left-facing groove. Climb this boldly, past a poor peg, to reach the third grass terrace and possible stance. Move 20m right to belay at a double-bolt belay/abseil anchor shared with Spurven. Another serious pitch that has caused more than its fair share of flutters.
4) N6-, 40m. 'The Direct Crack'. Climb flakes and cracks into the upper chimney then step out right on to a small ledge to find a superb crack. Climb this by finger then hand-jamming, gradually easing to an uncomfortable stance with a large sling-festooned spike belay.
5) N3+, 30m. Climb the easy-angled right-trending ramp (often damp) leading to a double-bolt belay/abseil anchor on the shoulder on the right. © Rockfax

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Lofoten Rock Top 50 , Chris H's 100 Mega Classic Trad , Lofoten Mid Grade Routes

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User Date Notes
Jack jk 29 Jun, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Big purple cam protects the awkward first pitch nicely - shuffled up to the steeper section then left. Was also handy at the start of p4. Used a 00 blue dragon, gold dragonfly and sideways green brass offset to protect the traverse on p3 (although probably plenty of alternatives). Otherwise standard gear.
Show beta
βeta: Big purple cam protects the awkward first pitch nicely - shuffled up to the steeper section then left. Was also handy at the start of p4. Used a 00 blue dragon, gold dragonfly and sideways green brass offset to protect the traverse on p3 (although probably plenty of alternatives). Otherwise standard gear.

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High n6
Mid n6
Low n6
High n6-
Mid n6-
Low n6-
High n5+
Mid n5+
Low n5+
Votes cast 7
Votes cast 10
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Sjømann

Grade: n6- ***
(Marklitinden)

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