180m, 5 pitches.

Rockfax Description
(The Hummingbird) Three fine pitches lead to the upper grass terrace. From here the usual way on is to join Spurven, but breaking right up the Direct Crack (originally a variation on Spurven) gives the best climbing. Start at the base of the large left-trending hollow flake.
1) N4, 30m. Climb and walk up the crest of the flake to a small belay. A precarious, scary and unprotected pitch despite its friendly grade, not for the faint-hearted.
2) N5-, 30m. Continue up to the roof then traverse right across a slab (often wet) below the roof to its right-hand end, and layback up a steep crack around the roof. Climb grassy cracks onto the large terrace and belay at the base of a thin vertical crack.
3) N6-, 50m. Climb the crack (some grass) which becomes a thin seam, then step right delicately into the left-facing groove. Climb this boldly, past a poor peg, to reach the third grass terrace and possible stance. Move 20m right to belay at a double-bolt belay/abseil anchor shared with Spurven. Another serious pitch that has caused more than its fair share of flutters.
4) N6-, 40m. 'The Direct Crack'. Climb flakes and cracks into the upper chimney then step out right on to a small ledge to find a superb crack. Climb this by finger then hand-jamming, gradually easing to an uncomfortable stance with a large sling-festooned spike belay.
5) N3+, 30m. Climb the easy-angled right-trending ramp (often damp) leading to a double-bolt belay/abseil anchor on the shoulder on the right. © Rockfax

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Lofoten Rock Top 50.

Graeme Hammond 18/Aug/16 AltLd O/S

Absolute classic: First pitch pitch is completely unprotected! 2nd good and wasn't too damp with great moves, 3rd is actually quite hard delicate and not that well protected on the crux (solid 6), 4th is spectacular crack climbing from thin moves to jam heaven, 5th don't bother - possible better finish/new route up the steep crack on the left looked good. Led P2 & 4 though led P1 when we returned to do Fingerrisset and approached via the first 2 pitches of this at later date

Bradbury 18/Aug/16 AltLd O/S

Me odd pitches, GH even pitches. P1 real is gearless unless you have large cams. P3 gear felt iffy (maybe E2?). P5 not really worth doing after the good P4

Pippa 22/Jul/15 AltLd O/S

Lead odd pitches. Comedy first totally gearless pitch, hugging the detached flake and getting my leg stuck. Nice moves on flakes around the roof. Terrifying hard moves on poor run out gear on third pitch. Nice laybacking up corner crack with the sun popping around to shine on Jam before dropping behind the mountains on fourth pitch. Yucky wet crack in slab to finish. Multiple abs off bouncy tree to get to bottom. Put off Norweigan climbers who asked how hard it was. Got to the bottom about 1am.

jonnie3430 09/Jul/15 AltLd O/S
with Pete
Peter Reynolds ?/Jun/15 Lead
Hidden ?/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
James Oswald ?/Jun/13 Lead dnf

Got to the bottom of the route just as it began to rain. Boo

with Ferdia, Lindsay, Clare Erskine
climbingpixie 05/Jul/12 AltLd dnf

Scary stuff. P1 is terrifying and P3 is much harder than the guide suggests. Started raining as my partner got to the top of P4 so we had to ab off before I could second it.

with Andy
Hidden 05/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 09/Jul/11 Lead
John Tanner 12/Jun/11 AltLd O/S

I led P1,3&4

mrstarwarsman 12/Jun/11 AltLd O/S
Andrew1 05/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
with Hulda
Hulda 05/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
with Andi
tuukka 20/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
with Maija
Hidden 06/Aug/09 AltLd
centurion05 05/Aug/09 AltLd
John Roe 05/Aug/09 AltLd

I led pitch 4 (n6-), Andy led pitches 1 to 3, also with Tarquin Shipley

brockers 30/Jul/09 AltLd

Would give it E1 5a/b for the third pitch. A precarious move rightwards that felt as hard as anything on Vestpilaren.

Hidden 30/Jul/09 AltLd
chiverstom 05/Jul/09 AltLd O/S

Pitch 3

with Dave Turner
Hidden 04/Jul/09 AltLd O/S
AJ007 ?/Jul/09 AltLd
Fredrik Nyberg 30/Jun/08 Lead O/S
with Elin Eriksson
Chris Craggs 10/Aug/05 AltLd
with Colin Binks
Bad Mongo ??/2005 AltLd
chrishedgehog 16/Jul/03 Lead O/S
with Clare Wilkie
Jonathan Lagoe - UKC ?/Jun/03 AltLd O/S
with Andy Hyslop
9 users have this on their wishlist
High n6
Mid n6
Low n6
High n6-
Mid n6-
Low n6-
High n5+
Mid n5+
Low n5+
Votes cast 5
Votes cast 7
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set