Rockfax Description
The chimney on the right of the hanging rib is an easier affair than its neighbour, though its still a struggle to get established. © Rockfax

FA. Harry Scarlett late 1920s

Ticklists: Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List, ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Northern Grit 100 VD - VS, To Goliath's Groove and beyond.

jcdavy 02/Jan Lead O/S
with Nathan
Garnham 02/Jan 2nd
with jcdavy
slab_happy 29/Nov/16 Lead β

With some shouted beta ...

admackie 05/Nov/16 Lead
with Ardo
Ardo 05/Nov/16 2nd O/S
Felix la shat 30/Oct/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Oct/16 Lead O/S
ashtond6 30/Oct/16 2nd
Hidden 29/Oct/16 Lead O/S
Rafal Malczyk 05/Oct/16 2nd
with Bernie Sosin
chrisdjackson 11/Sep/16 2nd dog

Quite a route. The tussle into the chimney was the cause of much swearing. felt hard but how do you grade a tussle

with joel
Mikethe boar 14/Aug/16 Lead dnf

Failed again!

with Rick Mattheson
dynodean 06/Aug/16 Lead RP
with Kev
dynodean 31/Jul/16 Lead dnf
with Jon
mattlyons 13/Jul/16 2nd
with Louise, Matt Arnold
Simon Holland 25/Jun/16 Lead O/S
with Laura
Caitlin 24/Apr/16 Lead dog
with Dave
FlavioL1989 23/Apr/16 Solo O/S
sopaz 21/Nov/15 2nd
with Rob
dr_botnik 21/Nov/15 Lead O/S
MikeDowsett 21/Nov/15 2nd
jshields 21/Nov/15 Lead
paulsross 25/Oct/15 2nd
with Phil Biglands
cragtyke 22/Oct/15 Lead
with john g
mark4344 11/Aug/15 2nd
with Dave Rich
Tim Harper 06/Jul/15 2nd O/S
with Jack Poyner
MBano 04/Jul/15 2nd dnf

Horrible nasty chimney. Got established, got annoyed, got lowered off.

Hidden 04/Jul/15 Lead dog
Hidden 20/Jun/15 Lead RP
Hidden 16/Jun/15 Lead
Hidden 30/May/15 Lead O/S
rich_hw 30/May/15 Lead O/S
uphillnow 30/May/15 2nd

likely to have done before

SDM 30/May/15 2nd
with Michael
john_ni 30/May/15 2nd
cpoad 30/May/15 Lead dnf

Terrible effort. Wore myself out getting into the chimney

with Danny T (CC)
cpoad 30/May/15 2nd rpt
with Danny T (CC)
Hidden 24/May/15 Lead rpt
Hidden 10/May/15 2nd
dpovey 10/May/15 2nd

Awkward fun.

Jmpollard 10/May/15 Lead
Mark1800 10/May/15 Lead O/S
with Hamish
Hidden 07/Mar/15 Lead
edwards_nicholas 08/Feb/15 -

A bit of battle definately a VS!

with Tom Anderson
ralphio 10/Nov/14 2nd
with Nik
Hidden 25/Oct/14 2nd rpt
Capricorn One 03/Aug/14 Lead
with Charlotte Ellis
charley 03/Aug/14 Lead rpt
with JackD
Jackwd 03/Aug/14 2nd
gazfellows 29/Jun/14 Lead
with Nic
Hardcore Pat 23/Jun/14 Lead RP
with Tesspot
mark v 11/May/14 2nd
with Mike Norbury
jimbonfire 18/Apr/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Apr/14 2nd β
petecallaghan 13/Apr/14 Lead dnf

Failure of will

with Jamie T
timreynolds 13/Apr/14 Lead

Took over from Pete and Jamie

Rafal Malczyk 13/Apr/14 Lead O/S

VS according to Rockfax

with Debora Mazzetta, Efe Tunc
Jimbo C 16/Mar/14 Lead O/S

Very Old-school, took a while to figure out what to do but very enjoyable thrashing.

with Jurr
amccann 16/Mar/14 Lead O/S
with Fran
K Wall 16/Mar/14 -
with Claire, Martin
admackie 15/Dec/13 -
Oo 14/Dec/13 2nd
David_Gledson 11/Dec/13 2nd O/S
with Alan
Nick1812P 27/Nov/13 Lead O/S
with Matt
Reds 23/Nov/13 Lead O/S
althesin 23/Nov/13 2nd O/S
schristophersmith 23/Nov/13 2nd dog
admackie 24/Sep/13 Lead


with alec
jonathandavey 05/Sep/13 2nd
LesserTrochanter 05/Sep/13 Lead O/S
spragglerocks 01/Sep/13 2nd O/S
with Kat, Steve M
SteveM 01/Sep/13 Lead
with Rachael, Kat
morganator 01/Sep/13 Solo
oodie72 01/Sep/13 Lead O/S
bobstones 01/Sep/13 2nd O/S

Great route, loved the battle up this off-width crack.

kitkat78 01/Sep/13 2nd O/S
herrettscott 18/Jul/13 Lead dnf
katoseimensah 27/May/13 Lead
Jake Young 22/May/13 Solo rpt
Hidden 19/May/13 Lead dog
keith leonard 14/May/13 2nd
chrisbussell 14/May/13 2nd
with Colin Densem
ColinD 14/May/13 Lead
with Chris, Keith
Hidden 28/Apr/13 2nd dog
The Norris 28/Apr/13 Lead dog

Got into the chimney reasonably well, then got wedged in the damn thing at the bottom. As per guidebook instructions, lots of swearing ensued.

with Gavin
Nigel Bond 23/Apr/13 Lead
with Bern Hardman
Andrew Lodge 13/Apr/13 2nd
with Dave C, Dave
hotfeet 13/Apr/13 Lead
with Richard M
RichardMc 13/Apr/13 2nd
with Alan Mountford
Hidden 07/Apr/13 2nd rpt
herrettscott ??/2013 -
MikeDowsett 11/Nov/12 Lead dnf
with Pete Scott
franhammond92 10/Nov/12 Lead

rested alot between attempts to get into the chimney. Thrutchy awkward route

Dawn_K_B 10/Nov/12 2nd

dont climb chimneys in short sleeves.

snowy_woodruff 20/Oct/12 Lead O/S

entertaining struggle to get into the chimney and still hard work once in.

with Mem
Andrew Sloan 18/Oct/12 2nd O/S

Quite a thrutch.

with Steve Grove
Graeme Hammond 13/Oct/12 Lead rpt
with Ewan
Phil West 29/Sep/12 Lead rpt
with Chris Tan
Hidden 29/Sep/12 2nd β
Sarah Welsh 29/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Sep/12 2nd
Hidden 11/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Sophie Gilbert 12/Aug/12 2nd
with Sasha
ardzeiem 29/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with Nic
ryansb90 29/Jul/12 2nd dnf
Hidden 29/Jul/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 28/Jul/12 2nd
Hidden 28/Jul/12 2nd dog
valentinesbabe 16/Apr/12 2nd O/S

Excellent climb, real giggleworthy. Managed to do it in good style :-)

Jackwd 16/Apr/12 Lead O/S

Looks easy, crux getting into the chimney. Managed to get stuck! A good laugh!

charley 16/Apr/12 2nd O/S

Great fun!! Chicken-wing!!!

with JackD, Ange
Hidden 08/Apr/12 Lead
Hidden ?/Mar/12 Lead O/S
armouredego 25/Feb/12 Lead O/S

Sandbag! Damn good fun though.

with Peter Elliott, Tom Parsons
Hidden 19/Feb/12 2nd
Kirill 19/Feb/12 Lead O/S

I now decided not to eat fry-up breakfast before climbing.

Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
stingray_tara ??/2012 2nd O/S
with Ian Rickerby
mountaingoatgirl 21/Nov/11 Lead O/S
with Nick Bean
buxtoncoffeelover 21/Nov/11 2nd
Ragingpossum 05/Nov/11 2nd dog

Very Awkward move into the chimney that took a few attempts to find. Once in the climb is simple and really fun. My first outdoor chimney and in the rain.

cbeard 05/Nov/11 Lead O/S

My first grit climb. The weather was rainy, but I removed jacket so it wouldn't get ruined, then sat on the top belay in the rain for an hour or so and got a cold. Certainly an interesting move getting into the chimney...

spitfirerick 26/Oct/11 2nd O/S
Lumbering Oaf 07/Oct/11 2nd O/S

Green and thrutchy. Straight out of Yorkshire!

hotfeet 07/Oct/11 Lead

Bit of a thrutch, hard work for a warm up!

with Matthew
Hidden 02/Oct/11 2nd O/S
Kap 02/Oct/11 2nd β
Calum Wadsworth 11/Sep/11 Lead O/S
with Harry, Sandra
chrishedgehog 29/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with Kieran Myles
sgl 20/Aug/11 Lead
with Susie
CurlyStevo ?/Aug/11 Lead

Happy to get this after a failed attempt many moons ago. Good climbing if you like wide cracks - strangely rewarding ;) VS 4c I reckon (4c for the moves getting established in to the chimney and moving up the initial section). Well protected, atleast as hard as jonathans chimney IMO.

with Kenny
andrea83 27/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with Grahams friend Rich
adam.wall 01/Jun/11 Lead dnf

Couldn't get comfortable in the first chimney. Some good gear in there but did not have the guts to jam myself in at 7am and with an overwelming urge to wazz mi sen. A strong coffee is in order before my next attempt.

Brown 31/May/11 Solo
with Gabriel
Hidden 20/Apr/11 Lead dnf
matthomas79 18/Apr/11 Lead O/S

How does this get HS 4a, are you joking, this was harder than Left Edge. This route (Scarletts) is more VS 4c than HS 4a.

Hidden 16/Apr/11 Lead rpt
Jim Brownlow 16/Apr/11 2nd
liamoloughlin 09/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/Apr/11 Lead O/S
jack89 28/Mar/11 Lead dog

Messy! Not enough experience with chimney! Grr

with Matt J
Robin Warden 20/Mar/11 2nd
alasdair19 ??/2011 -
Jim Malo 27/Nov/10 Lead dog
Hidden 27/Nov/10 2nd dnf
Hidden 07/Nov/10 Lead β
Jake Young 07/Nov/10 2nd O/S
with Miriam, Tom Redmond
Hidden 26/Oct/10 2nd
AlexxelA ?/Oct/10 2nd O/S

First proper chimney, felt like i was going to get stuck at one point, but wiggled my shoulder blades and made it through. Midges distracting my belayer, slightly worrying.

with Alex Williams
philb 26/Sep/10 -

do this once gruilling felt like u were giving birth --with mark

Hidden 04/Sep/10 Lead
Luuuuuke 01/Sep/10 2nd O/S
with Ian
pabbage 11/Aug/10 -
samuel_w ?/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Just after a light shower - difficult to get established in the slimy chimney, put some significant dents in my helmet as squeezed in, gazed at the muddy final moves and bewildered by the less than easy to build belay. Never again!

Creep_pea 05/Jun/10 Lead O/S

Found this quite hard going but it was a very warm humid day.

with Walsh, Ed
mattyork2 22/May/10 Lead O/S
RuthC 22/May/10 2nd
ptigga 21/May/10 Lead dnf

Backed off. Spent a long time trying to get into first chimney. Chockstones were wet and slimey. Backed off so that second wouldn't be climbing in the dark. Will come back another day.

climbinmunkey 09/May/10 Lead O/S

Good route for my Gritstone apprenticeship! Not a thrutch if figure out the moves and put some trust in friction. Managed to cam my knees and feet in to do the chimney.

with Helen
nick ferro 02/May/10 -
pwilkie 02/May/10 Lead O/S
X-tremist 02/May/10 2nd
The Wild Scallion 25/Apr/10 Lead O/S

Really horrid physically tiring thruch fest. Had to be done for the tick, will never do again.

helios 25/Apr/10 2nd
with Mathew Cantrill
katyc 25/Apr/10 2nd
daveclarke5 14/Mar/10 Lead O/S
with Stephen
RM199 ??/2010 -
masonwoods101 ??/2010 -
decs 05/Oct/09 AltLd
with Tom
Richie Rich 29/Aug/09 2nd RP
with Tony H
Martin Haworth 29/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with Tony
Tony Holdsworth 29/Aug/09 2nd O/S

Rich and I failed to lead but Martin did the job

with Martin Haworth, Rich Cutsforth
Mr Wild 16/Aug/09 Solo
Theeni 15/Mar/09 2nd O/S
ekaterina sigida ??/2009 Lead

Easy crack, a couple of trea truncks to hold on to.

with Charlotte Wood
Hidden 20/Nov/08 2nd
frume 22/Oct/08 TR O/S

used shunt

with Myself
Jim Slater 19/Oct/08 Lead O/S
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 20/Jul/08 Solo O/S
sara n 12/Jul/08 Lead O/S
with Andrea S
victim of mathematics 09/Mar/08 Lead O/S
with Jon
Jonny M 09/Mar/08 2nd O/S
Hidden 02/Mar/08 2nd O/S
Hidden 01/Mar/08 2nd O/S
Smeegan ?/Feb/08 Lead

Failed warm up (will Come back)

with Owen
Matthallinan ?/Feb/08 Lead
with Jon Winter
Graeme Hammond 27/Jan/08 2nd O/S
with Greg Slee
Hidden ??/2008 -
Hidden 03/Nov/07 2nd dog
MikeLeeds 03/Nov/07 Lead O/S
with Mira Slavova
Anna Horrox ?/Nov/07 2nd
clive-greenwood ?/Nov/07 Lead O/S
with Anna
Rob Davies 13/Oct/07 2nd

Fairly 'orrible chimney, real Ashton territory.

with Phil Ashton
howlingbaboon 09/Jun/07 2nd O/S
oliverthomp 27/Apr/07 TR O/S
dan gibson 27/Apr/07 Lead rpt
with AJ
stevo smith 04/Apr/07 Lead O/S

Dad belaying

gethin_allen ??/2007 Lead
Another James 29/Oct/06 Lead O/S
with Kirsten M
SecretSquirrel 15/Oct/06 2nd
with steve
Si dH 30/Sep/06 Lead O/S

first route back after 6 weeks travelling - it was hard work!

with Neil and Mark
baldcoder 03/Jun/06 Lead O/S

horrible. grr.

with LR_Davidson
Mutl3y 02/May/06 Lead dnf
with Iggy
Iggy_B 02/May/06 2nd
with Nick
sdi 30/Apr/06 Lead O/S
with Lindsay Riordan
size9hex ?/Apr/06 Lead dog

Couldn't get established in the upper chimney without a rest on the rope. Probably would have weighted the rope again later if I wasn't wedged tight.

freemanTom ?/Apr/06 2nd
dan gibson 29/Mar/06 Lead O/S
with martina
Hidden ??/2006 -
Tobias at Home 13/Nov/05 Lead O/S

Still awkward, two years on....bloodied nose udging up.

with catt
catt 13/Nov/05 2nd O/S

total sandbag. tried to sit on the rope a few times but never actually went anywhere as i was stuck anyway. therefor an inadvertant clean second :-)

with Toby
Whitt ?/Jul/05 Lead RP
Hidden 12/Jun/05 Lead O/S
markbenton 10/May/05 AltLd

Failed was getting dark

with madaxeman
Phil West 20/Feb/05 Lead O/S
with Shaun Walby
Hidden ?/Oct/04 Lead O/S
craigswoods ?/Aug/04 Lead β

A battle all the way

with Rob Nason
Nicos 21/Mar/04 Lead O/S
with mark richardson
dannyboy83 ?/Sep/03 Solo O/S
DerwentDiluted 12/Apr/03 Lead
Hidden 12/Apr/03 2nd
Hidden 25/May/02 Lead O/S
Stone Muppet ??/2001 -
Peakology ?/Jul/99 Lead O/S
Chalky Cat ?/Jul/99 2nd O/S
with Dom Lou
Hidden ?/May/99 2nd
Rog Wilko ?/Jan/99 Lead

Worth VS 4c for my money. But it was January....

with Debbie Wilkinson
David Qualtrough 09/May/98 -
astrecks 03/Jun/94 Lead O/S
with Rod
Hidden 07/May/90 Solo
Andy Say 17/Oct/89 Solo
mikej 09/Jun/85 Lead
with Mike Byles
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High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 62
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
Votes cast 59
Votes cast 56
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set