Rockfax Description
Climb the groove to the roof then exit right (crux) to Croton Oil and a finish up the rickety flake. Low in the grade but pumpy. © Rockfax

FA. Joe Brown 1954

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List, One Day Challenges: HVS-E4.

Hidden 25/Jun 2nd
bencole 13/May 2nd rpt
climberchristy 13/May Lead rpt
with bencole
charley 08/Apr Lead O/S
with Jack
Hidden 06/Apr 2nd rpt
Andy Moles 11/Mar Lead
with Ferdia
ferdia 11/Mar 2nd
williap 19/Feb 2nd dnf
scottcoates 18/Feb Lead O/S
with williap
will9911 04/Dec/16 Lead O/S
with tim
Hidden 26/Nov/16 Lead O/S
Luke90 19/Oct/16 Lead O/S
with Liz
Elizabeth Allen 19/Oct/16 2nd dog
with Luke
will9911 24/Apr/16 Lead O/S
with Tony Madden
Martin Bagshaw 17/Apr/16 Lead O/S
with Mullet
ralphio 07/Dec/15 Lead G/U

Slipped off initial crack as it was still a it damp from overnight rain. Lowered to ground and led clean second go.

Hidden 22/Oct/15 2nd
Hidden 22/Oct/15 Lead O/S
harry_lewis 09/Jun/15 2nd O/S
spidey 07/Jun/15 Lead O/S
jimbonfire 07/Jun/15 2nd
Alan James - UKC and UKH 28/May/15 Lead O/S
Stephen Horne - Rockfax 28/May/15 2nd
with Niff
Hidden 20/May/15 Lead O/S
eel 26/Apr/15 Lead O/S
with Al
MSchobitz 25/Apr/15 Lead O/S

good route, just about managed to span it using a smaller crimp for my left hand.

Teappleby 25/Apr/15 2nd

In the rain. Not as hard for the short as everyone says it is. There is a perfectly good intermediate hold, so even if you can't reach the big jug it's fine.

Hidden 25/Apr/15 2nd O/S
the power 04/Apr/15 Lead dnf

Two attemps at the crux came off both times and flipped upside down ripped me top cam out on 2nd fall haha radical

with Andy
Andy Peak 1 04/Apr/15 2nd
Hidden 08/Feb/15 2nd dog
shaunhumphreys 05/Dec/14 Lead G/U

tried a while ago on a sweaty day and couldnt commit to the move! felt fine today!

with Rory
adi bryant 17/Nov/14 Lead RP

Mildly damp..

with Lee
Andy Peak 1 26/Oct/14 Lead

Triyed every way i could think statick, then i just had to slap for the good one:-)

with phill ukc
climberchristy 25/Oct/14 Lead rpt

Glad to get this one today as have sat on crux in past. Short lived but tough crux.

with bencole
Gudge 03/Oct/14 Lead O/S

Short, sharp & sweet!

with Bob Ewen
Hidden 29/Apr/14 Lead dnf
Jack93 28/Apr/14 Lead O/S
bantamdave 12/Apr/14 2nd dog
with Tony Maden
belay bunny turned bad 11/Apr/14 2nd
with al
Hidden 11/Apr/14 Lead
JakeWShaw 08/Apr/14 Lead rpt

Harder than the tainted memory I have of seconding this on my first day of leading!! Reversed 4/5 times before changing from new shoes into old ones I trusted! Great route.

Hidden 09/Mar/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Mar/14 2nd dog
Andy Peak 1 03/Feb/14 Lead dnf

did not commit to roof on poor hold. must try harder

Hidden 29/Dec/13 2nd rpt
Hidden ?/Dec/13 Lead O/S
pete1993 27/Nov/13 Lead O/S

took a while to commit to reaching round the corner, but once i got the big hold and the high foot it was plain sailing, ace route

with Alex
Calum Wadsworth 13/Nov/13 Lead O/S

Very good. Not too bad once I committed to the move but spent a long time psyching up for it/getting more pumped.

with Matt F
Matthew Ferrier 13/Nov/13 2nd O/S

Height seems to be an advantage for the crux.

amccann 24/Oct/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Sep/13 Lead
Harry Thorpe 23/Aug/13 Lead O/S
thetradlad 23/Aug/13 2nd O/S
mshorter 17/May/13 Lead
Hidden 23/Apr/13 -
Hannes B 09/Apr/13 2nd
with DebsB
Hidden 03/Mar/13 2nd O/S
SteveM 02/Feb/13 Lead dnf
with Rachael
thomaspomfrett 05/Jan/13 2nd dog
Hidden 18/Nov/12 Lead
Hidden 13/Oct/12 Lead O/S
jwpil 17/Sep/12 Lead O/S

One move crux probably doesn't warrant e2, nice line though.

with Deacon
deacondeacon 17/Sep/12 Lead

Led on pre-placed gear from partners ascent. very steady at the grade.

disturbed_one51 02/Jun/12 Lead
with Wee man
Jonathan Hall 02/Jun/12 2nd
jshields 05/May/12 2nd
with Paul Tretheway
JRae 19/Mar/12 2nd
with Zora, Paul M
pmurdy 19/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with Jonny Reay
JakeWShaw 16/Mar/12 2nd O/S
with Nick
Owen W-G 16/Mar/12 Lead β

A bit bold but e1 5a seems closer to the mark, watched some yooth do the crux beforehand which probably knocks an e point off

with Ryan
Nick1812P 16/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Gambit 25/Feb/12 Lead O/S
with Barney
Hidden 24/Feb/12 2nd O/S
stuaart 29/Jan/12 2nd O/S

Neil led. Slightly off route he thought.

with Ben, Neil Redgrave
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
Longsufferingropeholder ??/2012 Lead O/S
with Ed
Nick Sillem ??/2012 Lead O/S
cobweb 22/Oct/11 Lead

Me thinks e1 ;-)

with martyn hopson
Bill Lawrence 10/Sep/11 Lead O/S
James Oakes 10/Sep/11 Lead O/S
Katya 09/Aug/11 2nd
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 09/Aug/11 Lead O/S

Nice line, not too bad at the grade.

ojp 30/Jul/11 2nd
with Dave
Dave Foster 30/Jul/11 Lead O/S

Unbalanced but good. One hard move with daunting fall potential, then the rest of Croton Oil. Had to climb down from crux for re-psyche and rest before climbing through. Didn't feel low in the grade in full sun!

with Si
Hidden 31/May/11 Lead O/S
tebs 27/May/11 Lead dnf

F-ing hard up the blunt arete. Apparently it doesn't go up there. Or maybe it does. Not the best route.

coombsy 21/May/11 Lead O/S

Lead withy John whilst Neil and Rich were on Croton Oil. All met at the top which was fab for a pic and the regular stupid banter. Brill

with John B
mark20 21/May/11 Lead rpt
Jake Young 19/May/11 2nd O/S
with Johny R
thomasadixon 19/May/11 Lead O/S

Good cruxy route.

with Becca
BeccaSnowden 19/May/11 2nd

Tried to lead but felt too scary trying to rock over. Seconded easily enough.

with Tom
JRae 19/May/11 Lead
Mike_Hayes 14/May/11 -
Graeme Hammond 08/May/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/Apr/11 Lead O/S
nick ferro 16/Apr/11 AltLd RP
Tony Holdsworth 11/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Adam Hughes
akhughes 11/Apr/11 Lead O/S
alasdair19 ??/2011 -
mwatson ??/2011 -
Dan Mckinlay ??/2011 -
drysori 06/Nov/10 Lead
Hidden 06/Nov/10 2nd
Stig 27/Oct/10 Lead O/S


with james oswald
James Oswald 27/Oct/10 2nd dog

Felt fine on second when I knew how :) Nice

with James Rees
BrettB 18/Jul/10 Lead β
with tomas
nai 04/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Mel
Hidden 22/Apr/10 2nd
Hidden 22/Apr/10 2nd
steveb2006 16/Apr/10 2nd
with David Andrew
steveb2006 27/Mar/10 Lead
with LC
pedro.silva 14/Mar/10 2nd dog
Hidden 14/Mar/10 Lead O/S
Laurence Everitt 13/Mar/10 Lead O/S
with Mark D
Wood for Trees 07/Mar/10 Lead O/S

interesting holds and a commiting long reach for me, kind of deadpointed the move but I may have just been dramatic. first trad of the year after 4 months of bouldering, good to be back.

with Lee and Ben
Seymore Butt ??/2010 -
Cake 15/Nov/09 Lead O/S

Came down twice I think, but barely weighted the rope. The crux was a powerful move for me.

with Matt
Hidden 31/Oct/09 Lead O/S
mark20 31/Oct/09 2nd O/S
Hidden 25/Oct/09 Lead O/S
Cragrat Rich 25/Oct/09 Lead O/S

Very straightforwrd ascent. About as mild an E2 experience as one could get (without mats of course)

Hidden 22/Sep/09 2nd β
Hidden 22/Sep/09 Lead
chris sm 30/Aug/09 Lead rpt

Quite tricky. But just one move.

with Pippa Froggatt
Brown 23/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with Evan
Hidden 30/Jul/09 Lead
Hidden 30/Jul/09 2nd
john lynch 12/May/09 Lead O/S
with Lewis Andrew
Lewis Andrew 12/May/09 2nd O/S
with John Lynch
Hidden 12/Apr/09 Lead rpt
lukehunt 15/Mar/09 -
with Nathan Lawrence
Theeni 15/Mar/09 Lead dnf
Hidden ?/Mar/09 2nd
Pixie-Andy 12/Oct/08 2nd
with Masa
masa-alpin 12/Oct/08 Lead dog

I took a near-ground fall at the crux - my feet just touched the ground. In the end I managed.

Hidden 12/Oct/08 2nd
Hidden 29/Sep/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/May/08 Lead rpt
tom.e 18/May/08 Lead O/S
with Claire
Hidden 01/May/08 Lead O/S
Mick r 24/Feb/08 Lead β

lead through after Vash backed off - one hardish move but not bad for E2

with Vash
Alex Mason 24/Feb/08 Lead O/S

tried 2 years ago (but reversed to deck), quite reachy and pumpy while hanging around.

with Tom Martin
jamiev 06/Jan/08 2nd β
with Kenta Tanaka
lowersharpnose 01/Jan/08 Lead
The old James turnbull ??/2008 Lead
The old James turnbull ??/2008 Lead
The old James turnbull ??/2008 Lead
Hidden 03/Nov/07 2nd O/S
DavidR 03/Nov/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/Oct/07 Lead
Hidden 17/Jun/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/May/07 2nd O/S
tatz45 28/Apr/07 Lead β
with Lisa Morgan
dan gibson 27/Apr/07 Lead O/S
with AJ
Hidden 11/Mar/07 Lead O/S
DavidEvans 03/Mar/07 Lead O/S
with Toby Dunn
RossG123 ??/2007 Lead
Phill Mitch ??/2007 Lead O/S
with gaz
Nicos 09/Dec/06 Lead O/S
Alex@home ?/Dec/06 Lead O/S

first e2 - don't care if it is low in the grade it's still an e2 ;-)

with nicos
cem 05/Nov/06 Lead O/S
with Natasha Geere, Graham Dolman
Coel Hellier 25/Jun/06 Lead
Lev 29/Apr/06 Lead rpt
Hidden 29/Apr/06 2nd dog
chris sm 14/Apr/06 Lead dog
with Pippa Froggatt
Hidden ??/2006 -
Jon Greengrass ??/2006 2nd β
with reeeve
Mark Riley ?/Sep/05 2nd β
Mark A Humphries 12/Apr/05 Lead O/S
with gary wood
Dave Reeve ?/Mar/05 Lead O/S
with Steve Hordley
RossG ??/2005 -
Hidden ??/2005 2nd
Hidden 19/Sep/04 Lead O/S
steve mee 19/Sep/04 2nd dog
with Tony Ball
Hidden 04/Sep/02 Lead β
steveb2006 27/Oct/01 2nd
with Dave Taylor
Hidden 04/Mar/00 Lead O/S
tuftynick ??/2000 Lead
Billg ??/1998 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Apr/97 Lead O/S
Chris Reid 24/Mar/97 Lead O/S
with Dave Plummer
goi.ashmore 28/Sep/96 Lead O/S
with Dave Banham-Hughes
Bruce Kerr 09/Apr/96 2nd
with Robert Durran
uphillnow ??/1996 -
Hidden 10/Jun/95 Lead dog
ste_d 01/Jun/95 2nd O/S
with mik
nokishatov 01/Jun/95 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Apr/95 Lead
Hidden ??/1995 -
Sean Kelly ??/1995 -
steveb2006 12/Jun/94 Lead
with Terry Bolger
steveb2006 03/Oct/93 Lead
with Ian Cartwright
IanD353 ?/Mar/93 Solo O/S
Hidden 01/Sep/92 Lead O/S
IanHazzard 11/Aug/90 -
Roget 28/May/90 Lead O/S
with jim
steveb2006 31/Mar/90 Lead
with Gez Morgan
Rich Kirby ?/Feb/90 Lead
with Will & Andy Williamson
Hidden 07/Jan/89 Lead
steveb2006 07/Jan/89 2nd

Mike leads after I fail, replacing my No 2 friend with a better 2.5 friend (which I didnt have)

Stoney Boy 01/Oct/88 Lead O/S
with Colin Hughes
Andy Say 29/May/88 Lead O/S
Chris Ellis 28/May/88 2nd
Andy Stephenson 21/Oct/79 Lead O/S

Led at HVS 5a - not sure how it came to be upgraded so much.

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High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 47
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 46
Votes cast 41
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set