450m, 12 pitches. Climb two easy pitches to belays at start of Madier route. Climb up through tunnel to belay. Continue for half a pitch then head R up crack to belay. Continue (one pitch) to arete. Option to go further right to Boell route or climb two pitches of "7 D'Un Coup", which requires trad gear. Both lead to right-hand end of Boell ledge. Traverse ledge left and climb 5m down to belay on orange pillar. Climb couloir on left (easy) for 50m then step up and right to belay (55m pitch). Traverse right slightly downwards and climb chimney or blocks to belay below final tower. Many routes converge here and there are various ways to top. Traverse right for easiest line and follow arete. Or, stay left for choice of V (old pegs) or 6a (bolted) pitch to belay, then head up and right back to arete and belay. Easy until steep crack on left: climb to trad belay. Easy pitch to top.
Take a selection of nuts and cams unless you are very comfortable on pitches of V.

L. Berthet, Eymard Sep/1937

Ticklists

Mountain Rock (big mid grade summit routes on rock!), The Big Easys

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
robgixer 16 Jun Lead O/S Upto the ledge after walking to the hut, abseiled off from the left side in 5 abseils
Upto the ledge after walking to the hut, abseiled off from the left side in 5 abseils
CharleyAnn 16 Jun 2nd
VinnyW 4 Aug, 2018 2nd O/S
steveprice.exmouth 9 Sep, 2017 2nd
Steve Woollard 5 Sep, 2017 Lead A lot more than 12 pitches, goes on and on... Excellent HS climbing
A lot more than 12 pitches, goes on and on... Excellent HS climbing
Jessicacrump 21 Aug, 2017 AltLd
betathief 21 Aug, 2017 AltLd Went straight up Oblig route for two 6a pitches at high ledge rather than traverse around, then continued on final two pitches for this route! Awesome day out!
Went straight up Oblig route for two 6a pitches at high ledge rather than traverse around, then continued on final two pitches for this route! Awesome day out!
Hidden 12 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S
Simon Caldwell 12 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S 16 pitches or thereabouts. Took in the Stoffer Crack, tough but well protected. Busy but weather meant our only option was a weekend ascent. About 7 hours climbing and 1 hour queueing.
with Lemming
16 pitches or thereabouts. Took in the Stoffer Crack, tough but well protected. Busy but weather meant our only option was a weekend ascent. About 7 hours climbing and 1 hour queueing.
with Lemming
Brucemacrosson ?Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S
with David Small
with David Small
timmeehhhh 26 Jul, 2017 - Started of in cloudy and windy conditions (we couldn't even see the mountain during the approach). Led most of the pitches, including an accidental 6b crack at the start of the spire. Long day, great fun!
Started of in cloudy and windy conditions (we couldn't even see the mountain during the approach). Led most of the pitches, including an accidental 6b crack at the start of the spire. Long day, great fun!
Denislejeune ??, 2017 AltLd Beauty. Long walk up and down (2.30 hours up), but great easy climb. Avoided the last busy rappel by soloing an easy 4a ledgy traverse, which was a bit iffy for me. But that's me.
Beauty. Long walk up and down (2.30 hours up), but great easy climb. Avoided the last busy rappel by soloing an easy 4a ledgy traverse, which was a bit iffy for me. But that's me.
Hidden 6 Sep, 2016 -
tradguy 28 Aug, 2015 2nd O/S
mcaterina 28 Aug, 2015 Lead
with tradguy
with tradguy
Hidden 5 Aug, 2015 Lead O/S
Hidden 4 Aug, 2015 2nd
mrmattwright 25 Jul, 2015 AltLd It started to go wrong by missing the ferry. We then ran into the stragglers of the Tour-De-France, which delayed us further...we then failed to make the hut the night before and slept in the car in the valley. Hiked 3hours to arrive 8:30am Mild rest, then on the route...we should have been fitter. The last pitches were a bit of a struggle and a bit of light rain 4 pitches from the end put the frighteners on me slightly. We found the best topo on the route, in a plastic bag on one of the pitches. It wasn't our best logistical effort. Still, it is a great peak, superb climbing and fantastic setting, highly recommended and will be well remembered for many reasons. It's a bit bigger than it looks on paper. :)
with Adrian Fletcher
It started to go wrong by missing the ferry. We then ran into the stragglers of the Tour-De-France, which delayed us further...we then failed to make the hut the night before and slept in the car in the valley. Hiked 3hours to arrive 8:30am Mild rest, then on the route...we should have been fitter. The last pitches were a bit of a struggle and a bit of light rain 4 pitches from the end put the frighteners on me slightly. We found the best topo on the route, in a plastic bag on one of the pitches. It wasn't our best logistical effort. Still, it is a great peak, superb climbing and fantastic setting, highly recommended and will be well remembered for many reasons. It's a bit bigger than it looks on paper. :)
with Adrian Fletcher
Poco Loco 31 Jul, 2014 AltLd O/S Great route, superb rock. We made a deviation onto "the ethic of joy" route on the East face for a fun 6a alternative pitch.
with David M, BALD EAGLE
Great route, superb rock. We made a deviation onto "the ethic of joy" route on the East face for a fun 6a alternative pitch.
with David M, BALD EAGLE
BALD EAGLE 31 Jul, 2014 2nd A wee film of a long held ambition to climb the classic "Face Sud Classique" aka "Voie Berthet/Boell/Stofer" on the spectacular Aiguille Dibona 3131m in the Ecrins. First climbed by Angelo Dibona in 1913 and although of modest height, the Dibona has inspired generations of climbers and is surely one of the most beautiful and spectacular mountains in Europe. Anyway the entertainment was duly recorded so for anyone interested in viewing a short HD film and seeing if we made it to the top of this superb route and beautiful mountain then please use the following link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ygToEMgjMYU
with James Pomeroy, David Martinez Majo
A wee film of a long held ambition to climb the classic "Face Sud Classique" aka "Voie Berthet/Boell/Stofer" on the spectacular Aiguille Dibona 3131m in the Ecrins. First climbed by Angelo Dibona in 1913 and although of modest height, the Dibona has inspired generations of climbers and is surely one of the most beautiful and spectacular mountains in Europe. Anyway the entertainment was duly recorded so for anyone interested in viewing a short HD film and seeing if we made it to the top of this superb route and beautiful mountain then please use the following link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ygToEMgjMYU
with James Pomeroy, David Martinez Majo
JohnMetcalfe 17 Jul, 2014 - highlight of my climbing career. Strayed onto some of the 6a pitches from other routes at the top just to add a sting into the tail
with Andy Wilson
highlight of my climbing career. Strayed onto some of the 6a pitches from other routes at the top just to add a sting into the tail
with Andy Wilson
Hidden 17 Jul, 2014 2nd
Peter Metcalfe 17 Jul, 2014 AltLd
Hidden ?Jul, 2014 AltLd O/S
davebrox 26 Aug, 2013 Lead O/S Berthet/Boell combination as per the local guidebook, 13 pitches of amazing climbing on a fantastic peak.
with Fiona
Berthet/Boell combination as per the local guidebook, 13 pitches of amazing climbing on a fantastic peak.
with Fiona
Hidden 25 Jul, 2013 2nd
Ian JL 25 Jul, 2013 Lead O/S
with Andy Lovelady, Bethsheba
with Andy Lovelady, Bethsheba
Tarquin 23 Sep, 2012 Lead
Bryan M 28 Aug, 2012 AltLd + Sept d'un Coup, Trad variant. 14 pitches, 7.5 hrs + 2 hrs back to hut.
with Pero
+ Sept d'un Coup, Trad variant. 14 pitches, 7.5 hrs + 2 hrs back to hut.
with Pero
Pero 28 Aug, 2012 AltLd
Hidden ?Aug, 2012 -
James Gordon ?Aug, 2012 -
da_cox 4 Jul, 2012 AltLd O/S Absolute classic! Started as for Madier with Berthet variation out to the right then came back with Boell route and somehow lost it near the top and ended up doing the much harder Livanos route. Long day as a three but one of the most memorable. ~9hrs from Soreiller hut!
with James Kniffen, Will Beharrell
Absolute classic! Started as for Madier with Berthet variation out to the right then came back with Boell route and somehow lost it near the top and ended up doing the much harder Livanos route. Long day as a three but one of the most memorable. ~9hrs from Soreiller hut!
with James Kniffen, Will Beharrell
Andrew Sloan 6 Sep, 2011 AltLd O/S
Martin Haworth 6 Sep, 2011 AltLd O/S Excellent route.
Excellent route.
Hidden 4 Jul, 2010 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?Jul, 2010 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??, 2010 AltLd
basvdploeg ??, 2010 -
Diggler 9 Jul, 2009 AltLd O/S
with Calder
with Calder
Calder 9 Jul, 2009 -
with Diggler
with Diggler
lukewilliams ??, 2008 AltLd With Dave talbot
With Dave talbot
Hidden ??, 2008 -
Gerard DANTEC ?Jul, 1982 Lead
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Voting
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High D
Mid D
Low D
High D-
Mid D-
Low D-
Votes cast 8
Votes cast 9
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Not Set