450m, 12 pitches. Climb two easy pitches to belays at start of Madier route. Climb up through tunnel to belay. Continue for half a pitch then head R up crack to belay. Continue (one pitch) to arete. Option to go further R to Boell route or climb two pitches of "7 D'Un Coup", which requires trad gear. Both lead to R hand end of Boell ledge. Traverse ledge L and climb 5m down to belay on orange pillar. Climb couloir on L (easy) for 50m then step up and R to belay (55m pitch). Traverse R slighly downwards and climb chimney or blocks to belay below final tower. Many routes converge here and there are various ways to top. Traverse R for easiest line and follow arete. Or, stay L for choice of V (old pegs) or 6a (bolted) pitch to belay, then head up and R back to arete and belay. Easy until steep crack on L: climb to trad belay. Easy pitch to top.
Take a selection of nuts and cams unless you are very comfortable on pitches of V.

L. Berthet, Eymard Sep/1937

Ticklists: Mountain Rock (big mid grade summit routes on rock!), The Big Easys.

steveprice.exmouth 09/Sep/17 2nd
Steve Woollard 05/Sep/17 Lead

A lot more than 12 pitches, goes on and on... Excellent HS climbing

betathief 21/Aug/17 AltLd

Went straight up Oblig route for two 6a pitches at high ledge rather than traverse around, then continued on final two pitches for this route! Awesome day out!

Hidden 12/Aug/17 AltLd O/S
Simon Caldwell 12/Aug/17 AltLd O/S

16 pitches or thereabouts. Took in the Stoffer Crack, tough but well protected. Busy but weather meant our only option was a weekend ascent. About 7 hours climbing and 1 hour queueing.

with Carmen
Brucemacrosson ?/Aug/17 AltLd O/S
with David Small
timmeehhhh 26/Jul/17 -

Started of in cloudy and windy conditions (we couldn't even see the mountain during the approach). Led most of the pitches, including an accidental 6b crack at the start of the spire. Long day, great fun!

Denislejeune ??/2017 AltLd

Beauty. Long walk up and down (2.30 hours up), but great easy climb. Avoided the last busy rappel by soloing an easy 4a ledgy traverse, which was a bit iffy for me. But that's me.

Hidden 06/Sep/16 -
tradguy 28/Aug/15 2nd O/S
mcaterina 28/Aug/15 Lead
Hidden 05/Aug/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Aug/15 2nd
mrmattwright 25/Jul/15 AltLd

It started to go wrong by missing the ferry. We then ran into the stragglers of the Tour-De-France, which delayed us further...we then failed to make the hut the night before and slept in the car in the valley. Hiked 3hours to arrive 8:30am Mild rest, then on the route...we should have been fitter. The last pitches were a bit of a struggle and a bit of light rain 4 pitches from the end put the frighteners on me slightly. We found the best topo on the route, in a plastic bag on one of the pitches. It wasn't our best logistical effort. Still, it is a great peak, superb climbing and fantastic setting, highly recommended and will be well remembered for many reasons. It's a bit bigger than it looks on paper. :)

with Adrian Fletcher
Poco Loco 31/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

Great route, superb rock. We made a deviation onto "the ethic of joy" route on the East face for a fun 6a alternative pitch.

with David M, Bald Eagle
BALD EAGLE 31/Jul/14 2nd

A wee film of a long held ambition to climb the classic "Face Sud Classique" aka "Voie Berthet/Boell/Stofer" on the spectacular Aiguille Dibona 3131m in the Ecrins. First climbed by Angelo Dibona in 1913 and although of modest height, the Dibona has inspired generations of climbers and is surely one of the most beautiful and spectacular mountains in Europe. Anyway the entertainment was duly recorded so for anyone interested in viewing a short HD film and seeing if we made it to the top of this superb route and beautiful mountain then please use the following link:

with James Pomeroy, David Martinez Majo
JohnMetcalfe 17/Jul/14 -

highlight of my climbing career. Strayed onto some of the 6a pitches from other routes at the top just to add a sting into the tail

with Andy Wilson
Peter Metcalfe 17/Jul/14 AltLd
Hidden ?/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
davebrox 26/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Berthet/Boell combination as per the local guidebook, 13 pitches of amazing climbing on a fantastic peak.

with Fiona
Hidden 25/Jul/13 2nd
Ian JL 25/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Andy Lovelady, Beth Frampton
Tarquin 23/Sep/12 Lead
Bryan M 28/Aug/12 AltLd

+ Sept d'un Coup, Trad variant. 14 pitches, 7.5 hrs + 2 hrs back to hut.

with Pero
Pero 28/Aug/12 AltLd
Hidden ?/Aug/12 -
da_cox 04/Jul/12 AltLd O/S

Absolute classic! Started as for Madier with Berthet variation out to the right then came back with Boell route and somehow lost it near the top and ended up doing the much harder Livanos route. Long day as a three but one of the most memorable. ~9hrs from Soreiller hut!

with James Kniffen, Will Beharrell
Andrew Sloan 06/Sep/11 AltLd O/S
Martin Haworth 06/Sep/11 AltLd O/S

Excellent route.

with Andy
Hidden 04/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2010 AltLd
basvdploeg ??/2010 -
Diggler 09/Jul/09 AltLd O/S
with Calder
Calder 09/Jul/09 -
with Mark
lukewilliams ??/2008 AltLd

With Dave talbot

Hidden ??/2008 -
Gerard DANTEC ?/Jul/82 Lead
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