UKC

Climbs 277
Rocktype Slate
Altitude 376m a.s.l

As ever an atmospheric day in the slate quarries © James Rushforth

Crag features

Marked as "Garret" on OS maps.
This is the biggest of all the quarried holes, with the most levels, so it does take a while to get your bearings, especially as there are many different access points, inc..various tunnels.
The rock quality does vary accross the many levels and areas, but some very good slate can been found here.

Approach notes

Reached from Bus Stop Quarry, continuing around the path, the main access is gained just before you drop down to dali`s hole,on the main path, by hopping the gate on the left, 100 yards after going through the swing gate. Head up the three levels in front of you untill you reach the `looning the tube` level. from here, you get a good vantage point to asess where you want to go.
The steps off to the right as you reach this level will take you up to eastern Australia levels.
Go back down one level, and walk through the right hand tunnel, (headtorch handy),and take the r/hand spur inside, this will bring you out onto a slightly loose but ok scree path where you can gain access to (Great Bores of Today, and The Wow Wow).
The other way to access these routes along with the lower areas of Aus, would be to walk past Dali`s Wall, two levels down, and find the tight squeeze entrance to the lowest of the tunnels, enter at your own risk, it seams ok, and it`s been like that for some time now!!!

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Guidebooks

North Wales Climbs

North Wales Climbs covers the best climbing from the whole of this huge and varied area. The book is modelled on the very popular West Country Climbs which set a new standard for selected climb guidebooks back in 2010. It contains all the routes from the 2010 publication North Wales Classics and many more routes and areas, with expanded descriptions and much bigger photo-topos. The book covers all the major mountain crags from Llanberis Pass, to Cloggy; and from Ogwen to the Carneddau. It also includes the Llanberis Slate quarries, Tremadog, the Moelwyns, the Gwynant Valley, Mid-Wales, Gogarth and the North Coast Limestone.
More info
More Guidebooks:
North Wales Slate (2018)
Llanberis Slate (2011)
North Wales Rock (2006)
Slate (1992)
The Slate Wiki
It is reported that recent rockfall from left of Digital Delectation may have affected the approaches to Skyline and Fruitbat levels.
harold walmsley - 23/Dec/17
The previous comment no longer applies. The routes are now described in the correct places.
harold walmsley - 23/Dec/17
Please note that the following routes, which are currently listed as in the Cape York Slab Area, are actually elsewhere (correct areas in brackets): Spicy Little Octopus (G'day Level), Kata Tjuta Rib (Ayers Rock), Barker (Gorbals Level) and Cape York Approach (Darwin Level). Also the "Far Away Top Level" is the same as the Darwin Level so these two should be merged.
harold walmsley - 28/May/15
The "Down under Pans" level can be approached from Looning the Tube or Railtrack areas by traversing under Railtrack. From Upper Australia it is easier to traverse the Fruitbat level, descend to Salt Pans and continue down the scree for one level.
harold walmsley - 17/Apr/14
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Lower Walls
  Billabong
3 Great Bores of Today 7a ** 17
4 The Wow Wow E4 6a ** 9
5 The Dunlop Green Flash XS  
6 Darkness Visible E4 6a  
7 Øyenstikker 7a+ ** 1
8 Illegal Smeagol VS 4a 1
9 Runup VS 4a 1
  Temple of Boom
11 Dekophobia 7a 3
12 Son of Rabbit E2 5c  
13 Temple of Boom HVS  
14 My Secret Garden 7b 2
  Tasmania
16 Arnie Meets the Swamp Monster E1 5a  
17 Toilet Trouble E2 5c  
18 Stinky Boots E2 5b  
  The Rognon
20 Joie De Vivre HS 4a  
21 Theftus Maximus E1 5b 2
22 Little Mo HS 4a  
23 Abattoir Blues E2 5c * 5
24 Genital Persuasion E3 5c 8
25 Single Factor E2 5c * 6
26 Second Thoughts VS 4b  
  Looking the Tube
  Loony Bouldering
29 Daily politics f5 1
30 Loon lord f6A 1
31 Square meal f6A ** 1
32 Yard arm f6A+ ** 1
33 Cat o nine tails f6A+ 1
34 Entrance exam f6A * 1
35 Little piggies f5+ * 1
36 House sale. f6A 1
37 Solar storm f6C * 1
38 Briefs f5 1
39 A=1 f6B+ ** 1
40 Echo chamber f5 1
41 Afterburner V5 2
  Loony Routes
43 Puddy Kat 5a 45
44 Just for Fun E2 5c * 178
45 The Burning 6b+ * 278
46 The Deceptive Dyke 5c * 532
47 1066 6b 57
48 N.E. Spur E3 5c 1
49 Loony Toons E3 5c * 12
50 Brief Encounter HVS 5a * 133
51 Astroman from the Planet Zzzoink E3 6a  
52 Planet Zzzoink Arete E3 5c  
53 The Man Who Fell to Earth E2 5c 3
54 Donald Duck 6c * 90
55 Gadaffi Duck 6b+ ** 711
56 Sad Man Who's Sane VS 4c * 703
57 U.B.L HS 4b 576
58 Hyperfly 6a+ * 335
59 Turn of the Century E2 5c ** 293
60 Maximum Tariff 6b * 561
61 Buffalo Smashed in Head Jump E4 5c 22
62 Dried-Mouth Sesame Seed 5c 177
63 Technical Hamster 6c 14
64 Technical Hamster Dance HVS 4b 3
65 Dried-Mouth Frog HS HS 4a 116
66 Swan Hunter Direct Debit * E6 6b ** 1
67 Swan Hunter E4 6b ** 31
68 Goose Creature E3 6a ** 732
69 Menai Vice E4 6c ** 30
70 Hysterectomy E5 5c * 9
71 Looning the Tube E1 5a *** 1886
72 Zzzooming The Tube E3 6a * 39
73 Pruning the Tube E2 5c * 46
74 Exhuming the Tube E3 5c * 22
75 Bise-Mon-Cul E2 5c ** 82
76 Mad on the Metro E4 5c * 28
77 Gerboa Racer E4 5c  
78 Fuck Les Clotures 5a * 29
79 A Selfish Act of Loonacy E3 6a *  
  Above the Rails
81 Sport 4 All 5a 484
82 Kinder Surprise 5a * 754
83 Surprise Surprise 6a * 832
84 Shorty's Dyno (Short Person's Method) 6c+ 217
85 Shorty's Dyno (Tall Person's Method) 6a * 27
86 Orangutang Overhang 6a+ ** 660
87 Cyber World Sl@te Heads 6a+ * 364
88 Steps of Glory 5a ** 948
  Railtrack Slab
90 Patio Doors of Perception E3 6a  
91 Cartoon Lesbian 6a+ 54
92 The Fat Controller 6b * 29
93 Scarface Claw 6b+ ** 54
94 Red Throated Diver 6b+ ** 62
95 2nd Class Passenger E2 5c * 41
96 Sleeper 6c 20
97 Crazy Train 6c ** 49
98 Ancestral Vices E4 6b * 11
99 Off the Beaten Track E3 5c *** 65
100 Uncle Nick's Broken Toe E5 6b *  
101 Here to Stay, Gone Tomorrow E3 6a * 3
102 Between Here and Now E3 6a ** 12
Climb name Grade
103 The Toms Approach E4 5c 1
104 Now or Never Never E5 5c  
105 A Grand Day Out Pitch 1 6a 3
106 Psychodelicate 7c **  
107 The Ghan 6b * 5
  The Salt Pans
109 Zut Alors 6c+ *** 12
110 Y Rhaffwr 6c ** 7
111 Stretched to the Limit 6c+ * 2
112 The Rack 6b+ * 5
113 Narcolepsy 7a+ *  
114 The Australian 6b ** 11
115 Jenny Wren VD  
116 The Stream of Obscenity 7a * 6
117 Kosciusko VS 4b * 1
118 The Australian 6b **  
  The Sidings
120 Puffing Billy S 4a 14
121 Not known 6a * 76
122 Glass Axe E5 7a * 8
123 'N' Gauge 5c * 476
124 Pointless E1 5b 3
125 Side line 4c * 596
126 Derailed 4a 456
127 Thomas the Tank 4a * 484
128 Rack and pin 5c * 557
129 Sodor 6a * 832
130 Above the Line
-
HVS 4c 15
131 The Mallard 5c * 749
132 The Polar Express 5c * 600
133 Ivor the Engine 5a * 698
134 Gordon 3c * 554
135 The Level Crossing 5c * 149
136 Being a Bob 5a * 27
137 Those who climb clearly marked projects... 5c * 347
138 Choo Choo 5c * 304
139 Hogwarts Express 5c * 264
140 The Railway children 6a ** 345
141 In Loving Memory 6a+ ** 230
142 Grand Day Out Pitch 2 5a ** 6
  Fruitbat Level
144 Solitude Standing E3 6a 3
145 Eric the Fruitbat E3 5c * 6
146 Harder Than It Looks 6a+ ** 36
147 M.I.L. Arete E1 5b * 81
148 Genevive E2 5c * 11
149 Rory's Unfinished Business HVS 4c  
150 Pontiac Arete VS 4c 14
151 Stretched Limo E2 5c * 6
152 Gymnastic Fantastic 6c+ * 16
153 Slatebite 7a+ ** 60
154 The Christening of New Boots E1 5b 1
155 Rock Athletes' Day Off HVS 5b 2
  Zippy Level
157 Jepp the Knave 7b+ * 2
158 Last Chance For a Slow Dance E3 5b 2
159 In On The Kill Taker E5 6b * 1
160 The Beanstalk . 7a ** 23
161 And a Pen Please HVS 5a 7
162 Boulevard of Broken Dreams 7a+ * 19
163 Rastaman Vibration E2 6a * 53
164 Razorback HVS 5a ** 151
165 Putting on Ayres E4 6c * 6
166 Feeling Rusty? 6b+ * 153
167 Zippy's First Acid Trip E1 5c * 24
168 Your Ma E1 5c **  
169 Ziplock 7b ** 5
170 Indiana Jasmine And The Topple Of Doom! 5c * 33
171 Second's Chance VS 4c 8
172 Cross Eyed Tammy HVS 5a 2
173 Resurrection Shuffle E4 6b **  
174 The Samba Drum E3 5c * 17
175 Pulverised 7b 3
176 Thumberlina 7c **  
177 De Nouement 7b 5
  Skyline Buttress
179 Digital Delectation HVS 5a ** 170
180 Good Afternoon Constable VS 4c 60
181 Dolmen HVS 5a 25
182 Menhir VS 4c 16
183 The Skyline Club. E2 5c * 63
184 Antiquity E1 5a * 22
185 Ruby Marlee meets Dr Holingsworth ! E1 5b ** 94
186 Act Naturally VS 4b * 201
187 Ronald Reagan meets Doctor Strangelove E2 5b * 39
188 Lindy Lou HVS 4b 3
189 Plastic Soldier 6a ** 560
190 Clash of the Titans 6a ** 392
191 The Dreaming E1 5b 1
192 Mad Dog of the West VS 5a ** 258
193 The Methane Monster E1 5b 15
194 Binwomen VS 4b 17
195 Up the Garden Path HS 4b 54
196 Billy Two Tokes E1 5b 20
197 Youthslayer VS 5a ** 1
198 SlabSlayer 6b ** 18
199 Harri Bach Llanrug 6a ** 115
200 Rock Yoga 7a+ ** 52
201 Put it on the Slate, Waiter E4 6a ** 4
202 Toe be or not Toe be... 7b 13
  The Gorbals
204 T time traverse V4 1
Climb name Grade
205 Barker V4 6b 1
206 Mynd am Aur 7a * 33
207 Slab Rog 6b+ *** 62
208 The Olympic Torch 6b+ ** 35
209 The Shining VS 4c 7
210 Mister Blister 7a * 9
211 Men at Work E3 6a ** 20
212 The North Face of the Aga E3 6a * 2
213 Filler E3 6a *  
214 Sprint Finish 6a * 12
215 Old and Complicated under the Oak Tree 5b * 10
216 Youthanasia E2 5b  
217 See You Bruce E3 5b ** 52
218 Glasgow Kiss 7b+ ** 7
219 The Gorbals E4 6a ** 26
220 Slabaholics Anonymous 7a+ ** 9
221 Black Daisies For The Bride E5 6b 1
222 Slabology 7a * 29
223 Tennent's Creek E2 5b  
224 Fetzer E2 5b  
225 Franzia E2 5b  
226 Turkey Trot VS 4c 2
227 A Swarm of Green Parrots VS 4c 1
  Alice Springs
229 Koala Bare E2 5b  
230 Men of Leisure E4 6a ** 9
231 No Feart of the Boaby 6b+ ** 11
232 Celtic Blood 6a * 18
233 Flying Death Fin (or is it Dutch?) HVS 4c 1
234 Captain Condom and the Mothers of Prevention E3 6b 2
235 Eyes Wide Shut E5 6b * 2
236 Where is My Mind E6 6b * 1
237 Goblin Party VS 4b * 27
238 Alice Springs E3 5c  
239 Out There Left 5b  
240 The Ghostly Hipster 5b * 1
241 Out There Right 5b  
242 The Last Ammendment 5b * 1
243 Bear Knee Cessity 6a+ **  
  Back Wall
245 Big Thursday XS * 2
246 If You Kill People They Die XS  
247 Conquistadors of the Useless XS  
  Darwin Level
249 Another Wasted Journey E1 4c  
250 Easy Routes Can Have Bolts Too! 5c  
251 Dont Look Back in Bangor E3 5b  
252 Room with a view 7b ** 2
253 The Faffer E6 6b **  
254 The Very Old and the Very New ? 2
255 Wish You Were Here 7c ***  
  Cape York Slab
257 Cape York Approach 4b 2
258 Lucky Break 6c+ ** 3
259 Cape York Traverse 6a+ * 1
260 Cape York Crack 6a+ 2
261 High Stakes 6b+ 1
262 A Brucie Bonus 6b ** 3
263 Cape York Slab VS 4b 5
  Ayers Rock
265 Ayer Head 6c+ * 2
266 Kata Tjuta Rib 6a+ ** 2
267 Ayers and Graces 6c+ ** 2
  East Face
269 Snakes and Ladders - Australia M **  
  THE BOTANY BAY LEVEL
271 Road to Botany Bay 7a ** 11
272 Impact Zone 7a ** 8
273 Wave Rock 6c ** 11
274 Sylvanian Waters E2 5c ** 2
275 The Garet Slide 4a 8
276 Birthday Girl 7b *  
  THE G'DAY LEVEL
278 Spicy Little Octopus 6a+ * 6
279 Walk this way 7a ** 26
280 Hogiau Pen Garet 6a+ * 58
281 The Koala Brothers 6b 19
282 G'Day Arete 6c *** 104
283 Jack the Ripper E4 6a  
  THE FAR OUT LEVEL
285 Far From the Madding Crowd E4 6a *  
286 The Curious Incident 6a * 14
287 To infinity and beyond! 6b ** 6
288 Ride like the wind! 6b+ * 5
289 Cirith Ungol 7a+ ** 6
290 Atticus Finch 6c 2
  The Dark Tower
  VILCABAMBA
293 Not quite snakes and ladders HVS 18
294 Where the Green Ants Dream E5 6a  
295 The Dark Tower 8a+ ** 1
296 The Serpent Vein 8b ***  
297 Buffer in a Crack Hous XS  
  Grand Days Out
299 A Grand Day Out 6b+ ** 211
300 A Very Trad Day Out E1 5b **  
301 An Extreme Day Out E4 **  
302 West Face of Australia (Link Up) E1 5b ** 22
303 West Face of Australia Direct (Link Up) E3 6a ** 2
304 West Face of Australia Super Direct (Link Up) E4 6a **  
  as yet unsorted new routes!!
306 Germag Anglar * E3 6a ** 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderators Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteers chrisdavies and harold walmsley