Climbs 282
Rocktype Slate
Altitude 376m a.s.l

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As ever an atmospheric day in the slate quarries © James Rushforth

Crag features

Marked as "Garret" on OS maps.
This is the biggest of all the quarried holes, with the most levels, so it does take a while to get your bearings, especially as there are many different access points, inc..various tunnels.
The rock quality does vary accross the many levels and areas, but some very good slate can been found here.

Approach notes

Reached from Bus Stop Quarry, continuing around the path, the main access is gained just before you drop down to dali`s hole,on the main path, by hopping the gate on the left, 100 yards after going through the swing gate. Head up the three levels in front of you untill you reach the `looning the tube` level. from here, you get a good vantage point to asess where you want to go.
The steps off to the right as you reach this level will take you up to eastern Australia levels.
Go back down one level, and walk through the right hand tunnel, (headtorch handy),and take the r/hand spur inside, this will bring you out onto a slightly loose but ok scree path where you can gain access to (Great Bores of Today, and The Wow Wow).
The other way to access these routes along with the lower areas of Aus, would be to walk past Dali`s Wall, two levels down, and find the tight squeeze entrance to the lowest of the tunnels, enter at your own risk, it seams ok, and it`s been like that for some time now!!!

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Guidebooks

North Wales Climbs

North Wales Climbs covers the best climbing from the whole of this huge and varied area. The book is modelled on the very popular West Country Climbs which set a new standard for selected climb guidebooks back in 2010. It contains all the routes from the 2010 publication North Wales Classics and many more routes and areas, with expanded descriptions and much bigger photo-topos. The book covers all the major mountain crags from Llanberis Pass, to Cloggy; and from Ogwen to the Carneddau. It also includes the Llanberis Slate quarries, Tremadog, the Moelwyns, the Gwynant Valley, Mid-Wales, Gogarth and the North Coast Limestone.
More info
More Guidebooks:
North Wales Slate (2018)
Llanberis Slate (2011)
North Wales Rock (2006)
Slate (1992)
The Slate Wiki
It is reported that recent rockfall from left of Digital Delectation may have affected the approaches to Skyline and Fruitbat levels.
harold walmsley - 23/Dec/17
The previous comment no longer applies. The routes are now described in the correct places.
harold walmsley - 23/Dec/17
Please note that the following routes, which are currently listed as in the Cape York Slab Area, are actually elsewhere (correct areas in brackets): Spicy Little Octopus (G'day Level), Kata Tjuta Rib (Ayers Rock), Barker (Gorbals Level) and Cape York Approach (Darwin Level). Also the "Far Away Top Level" is the same as the Darwin Level so these two should be merged.
harold walmsley - 28/May/15
The "Down under Pans" level can be approached from Looning the Tube or Railtrack areas by traversing under Railtrack. From Upper Australia it is easier to traverse the Fruitbat level, descend to Salt Pans and continue down the scree for one level.
harold walmsley - 17/Apr/14
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Lower Walls
  Billabong
3 Great Bores of Today 7a ** 17
4 The Wow Wow E4 6a ** 9
5 The Dunlop Green Flash XS  
6 Darkness Visible E4 6a  
7 Øyenstikker 7a+ ** 1
8 Illegal Smeagol VS 4a 3
9 Runup VS 4a 7
10 Fontaineslab 7a * 1
  Temple of Boom
12 Dekophobia 7a 4
13 Son of Rabbit E2 5c  
14 Temple of Boom HVS  
15 My Secret Garden 7b 2
  Tasmania
17 Arnie Meets the Swamp Monster E1 5a  
18 Toilet Trouble E2 5c  
19 Stinky Boots E2 5b  
  The Rognon
21 Joie De Vivre HS 4a  
22 Theftus Maximus E1 5b 2
23 Little Mo HS 4a  
24 Abattoir Blues E2 5c * 6
25 Genital Persuasion E3 5c 9
26 Single Factor E2 5c * 7
27 Second Thoughts VS 4b  
  Looning the Tube
  Loony Bouldering
30 Daily politics f5 1
31 Loon lord f6A 1
32 Square meal f6A ** 1
33 Yard arm f6A+ ** 1
34 Cat o nine tails f6A+ 1
35 Entrance exam f6A * 1
36 Little piggies f5+ * 1
37 House sale. f6A 1
38 Solar storm f6C * 1
39 Briefs f5 1
40 A=1 f6B+ ** 1
41 Echo chamber f5 1
42 Afterburner V5 2
  Loony Routes
44 Puddy Kat 5a 49
45 Just for Fun E2 5c * 197
46 The Burning 6b+ * 298
47 The Deceptive Dyke 5c * 579
48 1066 6b 60
49 N.E. Spur E3 5c 1
50 Loony Toons E3 5c * 12
51 Brief Encounter HVS 5a * 141
52 Astroman from the Planet Zzzoink E3 6a  
53 Planet Zzzoink Arete E3 5c  
54 The Man Who Fell to Earth E2 5c 3
55 Donald Duck 6c * 91
56 Gadaffi Duck 6b+ ** 774
57 Sad Man Who's Sane VS 4c * 773
58 U.B.L HS 4b 628
59 Hyperfly 6a+ * 379
60 Turn of the Century E2 5c ** 324
61 Maximum Tariff 6b * 609
62 Buffalo Smashed in Head Jump E4 5c 22
63 Dried-Mouth Sesame Seed 5c 180
64 Technical Hamster 6c 14
65 Technical Hamster Dance HVS 4b 6
66 Dried-Mouth Frog HS HS 4a 120
67 Swan Hunter Direct Debit * E6 6b ** 1
68 Swan Hunter E4 6b ** 33
69 Goose Creature E3 6a ** 779
70 Menai Vice E4 6c ** 31
71 Hysterectomy E5 5c * 11
72 Looning the Tube E1 5a *** 2047
73 Zzzooming The Tube E3 6a * 40
74 Pruning the Tube E2 5c * 48
75 Exhuming the Tube E3 5c * 31
76 Bise-Mon-Cul E2 5c ** 92
77 Mad on the Metro E4 5c * 32
78 Gerboa Racer E4 5c  
79 Fuck Les Clotures 5a * 34
80 A Selfish Act of Loonacy E3 6a *  
  Above the Rails
82 Sport 4 All 5a 530
83 Kinder Surprise 5a * 838
84 Surprise Surprise 6a * 920
85 Shorty's Dyno (Short Person's Method) 6c+ 224
86 Shorty's Dyno (Tall Person's Method) 6a * 38
87 Orangutang Overhang 6a+ ** 715
88 Cyber World Sl@te Heads 6a+ * 394
89 Steps of Glory 5a ** 1069
90 Sl@tehead's Arête 6a * 7
  Railtrack Slab
92 Patio Doors of Perception E3 6a  
93 Cartoon Lesbian 6a+ 59
94 The Fat Controller 6b * 32
95 Scarface Claw 6b+ ** 57
96 Red Throated Diver 6b+ ** 65
97 2nd Class Passenger E2 5c * 46
98 Sleeper 6c 21
99 Crazy Train 6c ** 55
100 Ancestral Vices E4 6b * 12
101 Off the Beaten Track E3 5c *** 76
102 Uncle Nick's Broken Toe E5 6b *  
103 Here to Stay, Gone Tomorrow E3 6a * 3
104 Between Here and Now E3 6a ** 18
Climb name Grade
105 The Toms Approach E4 5c 1
106 Now or Never Never E5 5c  
107 A Grand Day Out Pitch 1 6a 8
108 Psychodelicate 7c ** 2
109 The Ghan 6b * 5
  The Salt Pans
111 Zut Alors 6c+ *** 19
112 Y Rhaffwr 6c ** 7
113 Stretched to the Limit 6c+ * 2
114 The Rack 6b+ * 6
115 Narcolepsy 7a+ *  
116 The Australian 6b ** 12
117 Jenny Wren VD  
118 The Stream of Obscenity 7a * 6
119 Kosciusko VS 4b * 1
120 The Australian 6b **  
  The Sidings
122 Puffing Billy S 4a 18
123 Not known 6a * 90
124 Glass Axe E5 7a * 9
125 'N' Gauge 5c * 533
126 Pointless E1 5b 3
127 Side line 4c * 673
128 Derailed 4a 527
129 Thomas the Tank 4a * 554
130 Rack and pin 5c * 603
131 Sodor 6a * 921
132 Above the Line
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HVS 4c 15
133 The Mallard 5c * 840
134 The Polar Express 5c * 688
135 Ivor the Engine 5a * 804
136 Gordon 3c * 643
137 The Level Crossing 5c * 166
138 Being a Bob 5a * 63
139 Those who climb clearly marked projects... 5c * 402
140 Choo Choo 5c * 349
141 Hogwarts Express 5c * 299
142 The Railway children 6a ** 385
143 In Loving Memory 6a+ ** 262
144 Grand Day Out Pitch 2 5a ** 14
  Fruitbat Level
146 Solitude Standing E3 6a 3
147 Eric the Fruitbat E3 5c * 6
148 Harder Than It Looks 6a+ ** 46
149 M.I.L. Arete E1 5b * 89
150 Genevive E2 5c * 13
151 Rory's Unfinished Business HVS 4c  
152 Pontiac Arete VS 4c 15
153 Stretched Limo E2 5c * 7
154 Gymnastic Fantastic 6c+ * 16
155 Slatebite 7a+ ** 65
156 The Christening of New Boots E1 5b 1
157 Rock Athletes' Day Off HVS 5b 2
158 Albatross 7a+ ** 1
  Zippy Level
160 Jepp the Knave 7b+ * 2
161 Last Chance For a Slow Dance E3 5b 2
162 In On The Kill Taker E5 6b * 1
163 The Beanstalk . 7a ** 24
164 And a Pen Please HVS 5a 7
165 Boulevard of Broken Dreams 7a+ * 24
166 Rastaman Vibration E2 6a * 58
167 Razorback HVS 5a ** 165
168 Putting on Ayres E4 6c * 6
169 Feeling Rusty? 6b+ * 164
170 Zippy's First Acid Trip E1 5c * 24
171 Your Ma E1 5c ** 2
172 Ziplock 7b ** 5
173 Indiana Jasmine And The Topple Of Doom! 5c * 36
174 Second's Chance VS 4c 8
175 Cross Eyed Tammy HVS 5a 2
176 Resurrection Shuffle E4 6b **  
177 The Samba Drum E3 5c * 17
178 Pulverised 7b 3
179 Thumberlina 7c ** 1
180 De Nouement 7b 6
  Skyline Buttress
182 Digital Delectation HVS 5a ** 189
183 Good Afternoon Constable VS 4c 64
184 Dolmen HVS 5a 26
185 Menhir VS 4c 17
186 The Skyline Club. E2 5c * 68
187 Antiquity E1 5a * 24
188 Ruby Marlee meets Dr Holingsworth ! E1 5b ** 124
189 Act Naturally VS 4b * 219
190 Ronald Reagan meets Doctor Strangelove E2 5b * 45
191 Lindy Lou HVS 4b 3
192 Plastic Soldier 6a ** 626
193 Clash of the Titans 6a ** 431
194 The Dreaming E1 5b 1
195 Mad Dog of the West VS 5a ** 278
196 The Methane Monster E1 5b 15
197 Binwomen VS 4b 17
198 Up the Garden Path HS 4b 56
199 Billy Two Tokes E1 5b 21
200 Youthslayer VS 5a ** 4
201 SlabSlayer 6b ** 25
202 Harri Bach Llanrug 6a ** 138
203 Rock Yoga 7a+ ** 68
204 Put it on the Slate, Waiter E4 6a ** 14
205 Toe be or not Toe be... 7b 16
  The Gorbals
207 T time traverse V4 1
208 Barker V4 6b 1
Climb name Grade
209 Mynd am Aur 7a * 47
210 Slab Rog 6b+ *** 76
211 The Olympic Torch 6b+ ** 46
212 The Shining VS 4c 8
213 Mister Blister 7a * 14
214 Men at Work E3 6a ** 20
215 The North Face of the Aga E3 6a * 2
216 Filler E3 6a *  
217 Sprint Finish 6a * 13
218 Old and Complicated under the Oak Tree 5b * 15
219 Youthanasia E2 5b  
220 See You Bruce E3 5b ** 56
221 Glasgow Kiss 7b+ ** 7
222 The Gorbals E4 6a ** 30
223 Slabaholics Anonymous 7a+ ** 13
224 Black Daisies For The Bride E5 6b 1
225 Slabology 7a * 31
226 Tennent's Creek E2 5b  
227 Fetzer E2 5b  
228 Franzia E2 5b  
229 Turkey Trot VS 4c 2
230 A Swarm of Green Parrots VS 4c 1
  Alice Springs
232 Koala Bare E2 5b  
233 Men of Leisure E4 6a ** 10
234 No Feart of the Boaby 6b+ ** 14
235 Celtic Blood 6a * 28
236 Flying Death Fin (or is it Dutch?) HVS 4c 1
237 Captain Condom and the Mothers of Prevention E3 6b 2
238 Eyes Wide Shut E5 6b * 2
239 Where is My Mind E6 6b * 1
240 Goblin Party VS 4b * 30
241 Alice Springs E3 5c 1
242 Out There Left 5b 1
243 The Ghostly Hipster 5b * 14
244 Out There Right 5b 2
245 The Last Ammendment 5b * 7
246 Bear Knee Cessity 6a+ ** 5
  Back Wall
248 Big Thursday XS * 2
249 If You Kill People They Die XS  
250 Conquistadors of the Useless XS  
  Darwin Level
252 Another Wasted Journey E1 4c  
253 Easy Routes Can Have Bolts Too! 5c  
254 Dont Look Back in Bangor E3 5b  
255 Room with a view 7b ** 2
256 The Faffer E6 6b **  
257 The Very Old and the Very New ? 4
258 Wish You Were Here 7c ***  
  Cape York Slab
260 Cape York Approach 4b 3
261 Lucky Break 6c+ ** 3
262 Cape York Traverse 6a+ * 1
263 Cape York Crack 6a+ 2
264 High Stakes 6b+ 1
265 A Brucie Bonus 6b ** 3
266 Cape York Slab VS 4b 5
  Ayers Rock
268 Ayer Head 6c+ * 2
269 Kata Tjuta Rib 6a+ ** 2
270 Ayers and Graces 6c+ ** 3
  East Face
272 Snakes and Ladders - Australia M ** 10
  THE BOTANY BAY LEVEL
274 Road to Botany Bay 7a ** 13
275 Impact Zone 7a ** 10
276 Wave Rock 6c ** 13
277 Sylvanian Waters E2 5c ** 2
278 The Garet Slide 4a 8
279 Birthday Girl 7b *  
  THE G'DAY LEVEL
281 Spicy Little Octopus 6a+ * 11
282 Walk this way 7a ** 28
283 Hogiau Pen Garet 6a+ * 63
284 The Koala Brothers 6b 19
285 G'Day Arete 6c *** 113
286 Jack the Ripper E4 6a  
287 Raise The Roof * 7a+ ** 1
288 G'Day Corner * 7a+ ** 1
  THE FAR OUT LEVEL
290 Far From the Madding Crowd E4 6a *  
291 The Curious Incident 6a * 16
292 To infinity and beyond! 6b ** 7
293 Ride like the wind! 6b+ * 5
294 Cirith Ungol 7a+ ** 7
295 Atticus Finch 6c 2
  The Dark Tower
  VILCABAMBA
298 Not quite snakes and ladders HVS 18
299 Where the Green Ants Dream E5 6a 4
300 The Dark Tower 8a+ ** 1
301 The Serpent Vein 8b ***  
302 Buffer in a Crack House XS  
  Grand Days Out
304 A Grand Day Out 6b+ ** 220
305 A Very Trad Day Out E1 5b **  
306 An Extreme Day Out E4 ** 1
307 West Face of Australia (Link Up) E1 5b ** 22
308 West Face of Australia Direct (Link Up) E3 6a ** 3
309 West Face of Australia Super Direct (Link Up) E4 6a **  
  as yet unsorted new routes!!
311 Germag Anglar * E3 6a ** 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderators Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteers chrisdavies and harold walmsley