UKC

Climbs 265
Rocktype Slate
Altitude 376m a.s.l

As ever an atmospheric day in the slate quarries © James Rushforth

Crag features

Marked as "Garret" on OS maps.
This is the biggest of all the quarried holes, with the most levels, so it does take a while to get your bearings, especially as there are many different access points, inc..various tunnels.
The rock quality does vary accross the many levels and areas, but some very good slate can been found here.

Approach notes

Reached from Bus Stop Quarry, continuing around the path, the main access is gained just before you drop down to dali`s hole,on the main path, by hopping the gate on the left, 100 yards after going through the swing gate. Head up the three levels in front of you untill you reach the `looning the tube` level. from here, you get a good vantage point to asess where you want to go.
The steps off to the right as you reach this level will take you up to eastern Australia levels.
Go back down one level, and walk through the right hand tunnel, (headtorch handy),and take the r/hand spur inside, this will bring you out onto a slightly loose but ok scree path where you can gain access to (Great Bores of Today, and The Wow Wow).
The other way to access these routes along with the lower areas of Aus, would be to walk past Dali`s Wall, two levels down, and find the tight squeeze entrance to the lowest of the tunnels, enter at your own risk, it seams ok, and it`s been like that for some time now!!!

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Guidebooks

North Wales Climbs

North Wales Climbs covers the best climbing from the whole of this huge and varied area. The book is modelled on the very popular West Country Climbs which set a new standard for selected climb guidebooks back in 2010. It contains all the routes from the 2010 publication North Wales Classics and many more routes and areas, with expanded descriptions and much bigger photo-topos. The book covers all the major mountain crags from Llanberis Pass, to Cloggy; and from Ogwen to the Carneddau. It also includes the Llanberis Slate quarries, Tremadog, the Moelwyns, the Gwynant Valley, Mid-Wales, Gogarth and the North Coast Limestone.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Llanberis Slate (2011)
North Wales Rock (2006)
Slate (1992)
The Slate Wiki
It is reported that recent rockfall from left of Digital Delectation may have affected the approaches to Skyline and Fruitbat levels.
harold walmsley - 23/Dec/17
The previous comment no longer applies. The routes are now described in the correct places.
harold walmsley - 23/Dec/17
Please note that the following routes, which are currently listed as in the Cape York Slab Area, are actually elsewhere (correct areas in brackets): Spicy Little Octopus (G'day Level), Kata Tjuta Rib (Ayers Rock), Barker (Gorbals Level) and Cape York Approach (Darwin Level). Also the "Far Away Top Level" is the same as the Darwin Level so these two should be merged.
harold walmsley - 28/May/15
The "Down under Pans" level can be approached from Looning the Tube or Railtrack areas by traversing under Railtrack. From Upper Australia it is easier to traverse the Fruitbat level, descend to Salt Pans and continue down the scree for one level.
harold walmsley - 17/Apr/14
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  TASMANIA
2 Arnie Meets the Swamp Monster
-
E1 5a  
3 Toilet Trouble
-
E2 5c  
4 Stinky Boots
-
E2 5b  
  BILLABONG
6 Great bores of today 7a ** 12
7 The Wow Wow E4 6a ** 9
8 Darkness Visible
-
E4 6a  
  TEMPLE OF BOOM AREA
10 Dekophobia 7a 2
11 Son of Rabbit E2 5c  
12 Temple of Boom 5.9  
13 My Secret Garden 7b 2
14 Illegal Smeagol VS 4a 1
15 Runup VS 4a 1
  THE ROGNON, LOWER TIER
17 Joie De Vivre
-
HS 4a  
18 Theftus Maximus
-
E1 5b 2
19 Little Mo
-
HS 4a  
  THE ROGNON, UPPER TIER
21 Abattoir Blues E2 5c * 5
22 Genital Persuasion
-
E3 5c 8
23 Single Factor
-
E2 5c * 6
24 Second Thoughts
-
VS 4b  
  LOONING THE TUBE AREA
  Loony Bouldering
27 Daily politics f5 1
28 Loon lord f6A 1
29 Square meal f6A ** 1
30 Yard arm f6A+ ** 1
31 Cat o nine tails f6A+ 1
32 Entrance exam f6A * 1
33 Little piggies f5+ * 1
34 House sale. f6A 1
35 Solar storm f6C * 1
36 Briefs f5 1
37 A=1 f6B+ ** 1
38 Echo chamber f5 1
39 Afterburner V5 2
  Loony Routes
41 Puddy Kat 5a 44
42 Just for Fun E2 5c * 167
43 The Burning 6b+ * 261
44 The Deceptive Dyke 5c * 479
45 1066 6b 49
46 N.E. Spur E3 5c ** 1
47 Loony Toons E3 5c * 12
48 Brief Encounter HVS 5a * 129
49 Astroman from the Planet Zzzoink E3 6a  
50 Planet Zzzoink Arete E3 5c  
51 The Man Who Fell to Earth E2 5c 3
52 Donald Duck 6c * 83
53 Gadaffi Duck 6b ** 641
54 Sad Man Who's Sane VS 4c * 657
55 U.B.L VS 4c 541
56 Hyperfly 6a+ * 297
57 Turn of the Century E2 5c ** 265
58 Maximum Tariff 6b * 509
59 Buffalo Smashed in Head Jump E4 5c 22
60 Dried-Mouth Sesame Seed 5c 176
61 Technical Hamster 6c 14
62 Technical Hamster Dance HVS 4b 3
63 Dried-Mouth Frog HS HS 4a 114
64 Swan Hunter Direct Debit * E6 6b ** 1
65 Swan Hunter E4 6b ** 31
66 Goose Creature E3 6a ** 702
67 Menai Vice E4 6c ** 30
68 Hysterectomy E5 5c * 9
69 Looning the Tube E1 5a *** 1767
70 Zzzooming The Tube E3 6a * 37
71 Pruning the Tube E2 5c * 43
72 Exhuming the Tube E3 5c * 22
73 Bise-Mon-Cul E2 5c ** 76
74 Mad on the Metro E4 5c * 28
75 Gerboa Racer E4 5c  
76 Fuck Les Clotures 5a * 26
77 A Selfish Act of Loonacy E3 6a *  
  THE RAILTRACK
79 Patio Doors of Perception E3 6a  
80 Cartoon Lesbian 6a+ * 53
81 The Fat Controller 6b * 26
82 Scarface Claw 6b+ ** 54
83 Red Throated Diver 6b+ ** 61
84 2nd Class Passenger E2 5c * 39
85 Sleeper 6c 17
86 Crazy Train 6c ** 42
87 Ancestral Vices E4 6b * 11
88 Off the Beaten Track E3 5c *** 65
89 Uncle Nick's Broken Toe E5 6b  
90 Here to Stay, Gone Tomorrow E3 6a * 3
91 Between Here and Now E3 6a ** 12
92 The Toms Approach
-
E4 5c 1
93 Now or Never Never E5 5c  
94 A Grand Day Out Pitch 1 6a 1
95 A Grand Day Out 6b ** 120
96 Psychodelicate 7c **  
97 The Ghan 6b * 4
Climb name Grade
  THE SALT PANS
99 The Australian 6b ** 11
100 Jenny Wren VD  
101 The Stream of Obscenity 7a 6
102 Kosciusko
-
VS 4b 1
  DOWN UNDER PANS LEVEL
104 Zut Alors 6c+ ** 12
105 Y Rhaffwr 6b+ * 7
106 Stretched to the Limit 6c+ * 2
107 The Rack 6b+ * 5
108 Narcolepsy 7a+  
  ABOVE THE RAILS
110 Sport 4 All 5a 445
111 Kinder Surprise 5a 688
112 Surprise Surprise 6a * 763
113 Shorty's Dyno (Short Person's Method) 6c+ 212
114 Shorty's Dyno (Tall Person's Method) 6a * 23
115 Orangutang Overhang 6a+ ** 599
116 Cyber World Sl@te Heads 6a+ * 328
117 Steps of Glory 5a ** 866
  THE SIDINGS
119 Puffing Billy S 4a 14
120 Not known 6a * 70
121 Glass Axe E5 7a * 8
122 'N' Gauge 6a * 445
123 Pointless E1 5b 3
124 Side line 4c * 534
125 Derailed 4a 404
126 Thomas the Tank 4a * 429
127 Rack and pin 5c * 517
128 Sodor 6a * 772
129 Above the Line
-
HVS 4c 11
130 The Mallard 5c * 702
131 The Polar Express 5c * 553
132 Ivor the Engine 5a * 638
133 Gordon 3c * 495
134 The Level Crossing 5c * 142
135 Being a Bob 5a * 15
136 Those who climb clearly marked projects... 5c * 330
137 Choo Choo 5c * 289
138 Hogwarts Express 5c * 248
139 The Railway children 6a ** 314
140 In Loving Memory 6a+ ** 206
141 Grand Day Out Pitch 2 5a ** 5
  FRUITBAT LEVEL
143 Solitude Standing E3 6a 3
144 Eric the Fruitbat E3 5c * 6
145 Harder Than It Looks 6a+ * 34
146 M.I.L. Arete E1 5b 76
147 Genevive E2 5c * 8
148 Rory's Unfinished Business HVS 4c  
149 Pontiac Arete VS 4c 14
150 Stretched Limo E2 5c * 6
151 Gymnastic Fantastic 6c+ * 15
152 Slatebite 7a+ ** 56
153 The Christening of New Boots
-
E1 5b 1
154 Rock Athletes Day Off
-
HVS 5b 2
  ZIPPY LEVEL
156 Jepp the Knave 7b+ * 2
157 Last Chance For a Slow Dance E3 5b 2
158 In On The Kill Taker E5 6b * 1
159 The Beanstalk . 7a ** 22
160 And a Pen Please HVS 5a 7
161 Boulevard of Broken Dreams 7a+ * 14
162 Rastaman Vibration E2 6a * 52
163 Razorback HVS 5a ** 142
164 Putting on Ayres E4 6c * 5
165 Feeling Rusty? 6b+ * 145
166 Zippy's First Acid Trip E1 5c * 22
167 Your Ma E1 5c **  
168 Ziplock 7b ** 5
169 Indiana Jasmine And The Topple Of Doom! 5c * 32
170 Second's Chance VS 4c 8
171 Cross Eyed Tammy HVS 5a 2
172 Resurrection Shuffle E4 6b **  
173 The Samba Drum E3 5c * 16
174 Pulverised 7b 3
175 De Nouement 7b 5
  Skyline Buttress
177 Digital Delectation HVS 5a ** 163
178 Good Afternoon Constable VS 4c 58
179 Dolmen HVS 5a 24
180 Menhir VS 4c 15
181 The Skyline Club. E2 5c * 61
182 Antiquity E1 5a * 21
183 Ruby Marlee meets Dr Holingsworth ! 6a ** 90
184 Act Naturally VS 4b * 183
185 Ronald Reagan meets Doctor Strangelove E2 5b * 39
186 Lindy Lou HVS 4b 3
187 Plastic Soldier 6a ** 525
188 Clash of the Titans 6a ** 366
189 The Dreaming E1 5b 1
190 Mad Dog of the West VS 5a ** 244
191 The Methane Monster E1 5b 13
192 Binwomen VS 4b 16
193 Up the Garden Path HS 4b 52
194 Billy Two Tokes E1 5b 20
195 Youthslayer VS 5a ** 1
Climb name Grade
196 SlabSlayer 6b ** 17
197 Harri Bach Llanrug VS 5a ** 104
198 Rock Yoga 7a+ ** 44
199 Put it on the Slate, Waiter E4 6a ** 3
200 Toe be or not Toe be... 7b 13
  THE GORBALS LEVEL
202 T time traverse V4 1
203 Barker V4 6b 1
204 Mynd am Aur 7a * 28
205 Slab Rog 6b+ *** 56
206 The Olympic Torch 6b+ ** 29
207 The Shining VS 4c 6
208 Mister Blister 7a * 9
209 Men at Work E3 6a ** 19
210 The North Face of the Aga E3 6a * 2
211 Filler E3 6a *  
212 Sprint Finish E2 5b * 12
213 Old and Complicated under the Oak Tree 5b * 4
214 Youthanasia E2 5b  
215 See You Bruce E3 5b ** 49
216 Glasgow Kiss 7b+ ** 7
217 The Gorbals E4 6a ** 25
218 Slabaholics Anonymous 7a+ ** 9
219 Black Daisies For The Bride E5 6b 1
220 Slabology 7a * 21
221 Tennent's Creek E2 5b  
222 Fetzer E2 5b  
223 Franzia E2 5b  
224 Turkey Trot VS 4c 2
225 A Swarm of Green Parrots VS 4c 1
  ALICE SPRINGS LEVEL
227 Koala Bare E2 5b  
228 Men of Leisure E4 6a ** 9
229 No Feart of the Boaby 6b+ ** 11
230 Celtic Blood 6a * 18
231 Flying Death Fin (or is it Dutch?) HVS 4c  
232 Captain Condom and the Mothers of Prevention E3 6b 2
233 Eyes Wide Shut E5 6b * 2
234 Where is My Mind E6 6b * 1
235 Goblin Party VS 4b ** 25
236 Alice Springs 1  
  THE DARWIN LEVEL
238 Another Wasted Journey
-
E1 4c  
239 Easy Routes Can Have Bolts Two! 5c  
240 Dont Look Back in Bangor E3 5b  
241 Room with a view 7b ** 2
242 The Faffer E6 6b **  
243 The Very Old and the Very New C3 * 2
244 Wish You Were Here 7c ***  
245 Cape York Approach 4b 2
  CAPE YORK SLAB AREA
247 Lucky Break 6c+ ** 3
248 Cape York Traverse 6a+ * 1
249 Cape York Crack 6a+ 2
250 High Stakes 6b+ * 1
251 A Brucie Bonus 6b * 3
252 Cape York Slab VS 4b/c 5
  AYERS ROCK
254 Ayer Head 6c+ * 2
255 Kata Tjuta Rib 6a+ 2
256 Ayers and Graces 6c+ ** 2
  UPPER DINORWIC
258 Big Thursday
-
XS abo 2
  THE FAR OUT LEVEL
260 Far From the Madding Crowd
-
E4 6a *  
261 The Curious Incident 6a 13
262 To infinity and beyond! 6b ** 5
263 Ride like the wind! 6b+ 5
264 Cirith Ungol 7a+ ** 5
265 Atticus Finch 6c 2
  THE G`'DAY LEVEL
267 Spicy Little Octopus 6a+ ** 6
268 Walk this way 7a ** 22
269 Hogiau Pen Garett 6a+ * 54
270 The Koala Brothers 6b 18
271 G'Day Arete 6c *** 96
272 Jack the Ripper
-
E4 6a  
  THE BOTANY BAY LEVEL
274 Road to Botany Bay 7a * 10
275 Impact Zone 7a ** 7
276 Wave Rock 6c ** 10
277 Sylvanian Waters
-
E2 5c ** 2
278 The Garett Slide 4a 8
279 Birthday Girl 7b *  
  VILCABAMBA
281 Not quite snakes and ladders HVS 18
282 Where the Green Ants Dream E5 6a  
  EAST WALL
284 The Dark Tower 8a+ 1
285 The Serpent Vein
-
8b ***  
286 Buffer in a Crack Hous
-
XS  
  LINK UPS
288 A Grand Day Out (Link Up) 6b+ ** 80
289 West Face of Australia (Link Up) E1 5b ** 19
290 West Face of Australia Direct (Link Up) E3 6a ** 2
291 West Face of Australia Super Direct (Link Up) E4 6a **  
  as yet unsorted new routes!!
293 Germag Anglar * E3 6a ** 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderators Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteers chrisdavies and harold walmsley