Climbs 282
Rocktype Slate
Altitude 376m a.s.l

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As ever an atmospheric day in the slate quarries © James Rushforth

Crag features

Marked as "Garret" on OS maps.
This is the biggest of all the quarried holes, with the most levels, so it does take a while to get your bearings, especially as there are many different access points, inc..various tunnels.
The rock quality does vary accross the many levels and areas, but some very good slate can been found here.

Approach notes

Reached from Bus Stop Quarry, continuing around the path, the main access is gained just before you drop down to dali`s hole,on the main path, by hopping the gate on the left, 100 yards after going through the swing gate. Head up the three levels in front of you untill you reach the `looning the tube` level. from here, you get a good vantage point to asess where you want to go.
The steps off to the right as you reach this level will take you up to eastern Australia levels.
Go back down one level, and walk through the right hand tunnel, (headtorch handy),and take the r/hand spur inside, this will bring you out onto a slightly loose but ok scree path where you can gain access to (Great Bores of Today, and The Wow Wow).
The other way to access these routes along with the lower areas of Aus, would be to walk past Dali`s Wall, two levels down, and find the tight squeeze entrance to the lowest of the tunnels, enter at your own risk, it seams ok, and it`s been like that for some time now!!!

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Guidebooks

North Wales Climbs

North Wales Climbs covers the best climbing from the whole of this huge and varied area. The book is modelled on the very popular West Country Climbs which set a new standard for selected climb guidebooks back in 2010. It contains all the routes from the 2010 publication North Wales Classics and many more routes and areas, with expanded descriptions and much bigger photo-topos. The book covers all the major mountain crags from Llanberis Pass, to Cloggy; and from Ogwen to the Carneddau. It also includes the Llanberis Slate quarries, Tremadog, the Moelwyns, the Gwynant Valley, Mid-Wales, Gogarth and the North Coast Limestone.
More info
More Guidebooks:
North Wales Slate (2018)
Llanberis Slate (2011)
North Wales Rock (2006)
Slate (1992)
The Slate Wiki
It is reported that recent rockfall from left of Digital Delectation may have affected the approaches to Skyline and Fruitbat levels.
harold walmsley - 23/Dec/17
The previous comment no longer applies. The routes are now described in the correct places.
harold walmsley - 23/Dec/17
Please note that the following routes, which are currently listed as in the Cape York Slab Area, are actually elsewhere (correct areas in brackets): Spicy Little Octopus (G'day Level), Kata Tjuta Rib (Ayers Rock), Barker (Gorbals Level) and Cape York Approach (Darwin Level). Also the "Far Away Top Level" is the same as the Darwin Level so these two should be merged.
harold walmsley - 28/May/15
The "Down under Pans" level can be approached from Looning the Tube or Railtrack areas by traversing under Railtrack. From Upper Australia it is easier to traverse the Fruitbat level, descend to Salt Pans and continue down the scree for one level.
harold walmsley - 17/Apr/14
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Lower Walls
  Billabong
3 Great Bores of Today 7a ** 17
4 The Wow Wow E4 6a ** 9
5 The Dunlop Green Flash XS  
6 Darkness Visible E4 6a  
7 Øyenstikker 7a * 1
8 Illegal Smeagol VS 4a 3
9 Runup VS 4a 7
10 Fontaineslab 7a * 1
  Temple of Boom
12 Dekophobia 7a 4
13 Son of Rabbit E2 5c 1
14 Temple of Boom HVS  
15 My Secret Garden 7b 2
  Tasmania
17 Arnie Meets the Swamp Monster E1 5a  
18 Toilet Trouble E2 5c  
19 Stinky Boots E2 5b  
  The Rognon
21 Joie De Vivre HS 4a  
22 Theftus Maximus E1 5b 2
23 Little Mo HS 4a  
24 Abattoir Blues E2 5c * 6
25 Genital Persuasion E3 5c 9
26 Single Factor E2 5c * 7
27 Second Thoughts VS 4b  
  Looning the Tube
  Loony Bouldering
30 Daily politics f5 1
31 Loon lord f6A 1
32 Square meal f6A ** 1
33 Yard arm f6A+ ** 1
34 Cat o nine tails f6A+ 1
35 Entrance exam f6A * 1
36 Little piggies f5+ * 1
37 House sale. f6A 1
38 Solar storm f6C * 1
39 Briefs f5 1
40 A=1 f6B+ ** 1
41 Echo chamber f5 1
42 Afterburner V5 2
  Loony Routes
44 Puddy Kat 5a 51
45 Just for Fun E2 5c * 197
46 The Burning 6b+ * 300
47 The Deceptive Dyke 5c * 586
48 1066 6b 61
49 N.E. Spur E3 5c 1
50 Loony Toons E3 5c * 12
51 Brief Encounter HVS 5a * 145
52 Astroman from the Planet Zzzoink E3 6a  
53 Planet Zzzoink Arete E3 5c  
54 The Man Who Fell to Earth E2 5c 3
55 Donald Duck 6c * 93
56 Gadaffi Duck 6b+ ** 781
57 Sad Man Who's Sane VS 4c * 789
58 U.B.L HS 4b 641
59 Hyperfly 6a+ * 390
60 Turn of the Century E2 5c ** 327
61 Maximum Tariff 6b * 618
62 Buffalo Smashed in Head Jump E4 5c 22
63 Dried-Mouth Sesame Seed 5c 181
64 Technical Hamster 6c 15
65 Technical Hamster Dance HVS 4b 6
66 Dried-Mouth Frog HS HS 4a 121
67 Swan Hunter Direct Debit * E6 6b ** 1
68 Swan Hunter E4 6b ** 33
69 Goose Creature E3 6a ** 786
70 Menai Vice E4 6c ** 31
71 Hysterectomy E5 5c * 11
72 Looning the Tube E1 5a *** 2076
73 Zzzooming The Tube E3 6a * 40
74 Pruning the Tube E2 5c * 49
75 Exhuming the Tube E3 5c * 31
76 Bise-Mon-Cul E2 5c ** 95
77 Mad on the Metro E4 5c * 37
78 Gerboa Racer E4 5c  
79 Fuck Les Clotures 5a * 34
80 A Selfish Act of Loonacy E3 6a *  
81 Germag Anglar * E3 6a ** 1
  Above the Rails
83 Sport 4 All 5a 537
84 Kinder Surprise 5a * 848
85 Surprise Surprise 6a * 934
86 Shorty's Dyno (Short Person's Method) 6c+ 225
87 Shorty's Dyno (Tall Person's Method) 6a * 42
88 Orangutang Overhang 6a+ ** 733
89 Cyber World Sl@te Heads 6a+ * 403
90 Steps of Glory 5a ** 1085
91 Sl@tehead's Arête 6a+ * 15
  Railtrack Slab
93 Patio Doors of Perception E3 6a  
94 Cartoon Lesbian 6a+ 62
95 The Fat Controller 6b * 33
96 Scarface Claw 6b+ ** 60
97 Red Throated Diver 6b+ ** 65
98 2nd Class Passenger E2 5c * 47
99 Sleeper 6c 22
100 Crazy Train 6c ** 55
101 Ancestral Vices E4 6b * 12
102 Off the Beaten Track E3 5c *** 82
103 Uncle Nick's Broken Toe E5 6b *  
104 Here to Stay, Gone Tomorrow E3 6a * 3
Climb name Grade
105 Between Here and Now E3 6a ** 20
106 The Toms Approach E4 5c 1
107 Now or Never Never E5 5c  
108 A Grand Day Out Pitch 1 6a 8
109 Psychodelicate 7c ** 2
110 The Ghan 6b * 7
  The Salt Pans
112 Zut Alors 6c+ *** 19
113 Y Rhaffwr 6c ** 7
114 Stretched to the Limit 6c+ * 2
115 The Rack 6b+ * 6
116 Narcolepsy 7a+ *  
117 The Australian 6b ** 13
118 Jenny Wren VD  
119 The Stream of Obscenity 7a * 6
120 Kosciusko VS 4b * 1
121 The Australian 6b **  
  The Sidings
123 Puffing Billy S 4a 18
124 Not known 6a * 93
125 Glass Axe E5 7a * 9
126 'N' Gauge 5c * 539
127 Pointless E1 5b 3
128 Side line 4c * 679
129 Derailed 4a 529
130 Thomas the Tank 4a * 558
131 Rack and pin 5c * 610
132 Sodor 6a * 929
133 Above the Line
-
HVS 4c 15
134 The Mallard 5c * 849
135 The Polar Express 5c * 696
136 Ivor the Engine 5a * 808
137 Gordon 3c * 648
138 The Level Crossing 5c * 166
139 Being a Bob 5a * 70
140 Those who climb clearly marked projects... 5c * 411
141 Choo Choo 5c * 354
142 Hogwarts Express 5c * 302
143 The Railway children 6a ** 394
144 In Loving Memory 6a+ ** 271
145 Grand Day Out Pitch 2 5a ** 16
  Fruitbat Level
147 Solitude Standing E3 6a 3
148 Eric the Fruitbat E3 5c * 6
149 Harder Than It Looks 6a+ ** 48
150 M.I.L. Arete E1 5b * 89
151 Genevive E2 5c * 13
152 Rory's Unfinished Business HVS 4c  
153 Pontiac Arete VS 4c 15
154 Stretched Limo E2 5c * 7
155 Gymnastic Fantastic 6c+ * 16
156 Slatebite 7a+ ** 67
157 The Christening of New Boots E1 5b 1
158 Rock Athletes' Day Off HVS 5b 2
159 Albatross 7b ** 1
  Zippy Level
161 Jepp the Knave 7b+ * 2
162 Last Chance For a Slow Dance E3 5b 2
163 In On The Kill Taker E5 6b * 1
164 The Beanstalk . 7a ** 25
165 And a Pen Please HVS 5a 8
166 Boulevard of Broken Dreams 7a+ * 26
167 Rastaman Vibration E2 6a * 61
168 Razorback HVS 5a ** 169
169 Putting on Ayres E4 6c * 8
170 Feeling Rusty? 6b+ * 166
171 Zippy's First Acid Trip E1 5c * 24
172 Your Ma E1 5c ** 2
173 Ziplock 7b ** 5
174 Indiana Jasmine And The Topple Of Doom! 5c * 36
175 Second's Chance VS 4c 8
176 Cross Eyed Tammy HVS 5a 2
177 Resurrection Shuffle E4 6b **  
178 The Samba Drum E3 5c * 17
179 Pulverised 7b 3
180 De Nouement 7b 6
181 Thumberlina 7c ** 1
  Skyline Buttress
183 Digital Delectation HVS 5a ** 193
184 Good Afternoon Constable VS 4c 66
185 Dolmen HVS 5a 26
186 Menhir VS 4c 18
187 The Skyline Club. E2 5c * 68
188 Antiquity E1 5a * 24
189 Ruby Marlee meets Dr Holingsworth ! E1 5b ** 132
190 Act Naturally VS 4b * 221
191 Ronald Reagan meets Doctor Strangelove E2 5b * 46
192 Lindy Lou HVS 4b 3
193 Plastic Soldier 6a ** 632
194 Clash of the Titans 6a ** 438
195 The Dreaming E1 5b 1
196 Mad Dog of the West VS 5a ** 281
197 The Methane Monster E1 5b 15
198 Binwomen VS 4b 17
199 Up the Garden Path HS 4b 56
200 Billy Two Tokes E1 5b 21
201 Youthslayer VS 5a ** 5
202 SlabSlayer 6b ** 28
203 Harri Bach Llanrug 6a ** 144
204 Rock Yoga 7a+ ** 72
205 Put it on the Slate, Waiter E4 6a ** 18
206 Toe be or not Toe be... 7b 16
  The Gorbals
208 T time traverse V4 1
Climb name Grade
209 Barker V4 6b 1
210 Mynd am Aur 7a * 51
211 Slab Rog 6b+ *** 79
212 The Olympic Torch 6b+ ** 48
213 The Shining VS 4c 8
214 Mister Blister 7a * 14
215 Men at Work E3 6a ** 21
216 The North Face of the Aga E3 6a * 2
217 Filler E3 6a *  
218 Sprint Finish 6a * 13
219 Old and Complicated under the Oak Tree 5b * 16
220 Youthanasia E2 5b  
221 See You Bruce E3 5b ** 56
222 Glasgow Kiss 7b+ ** 7
223 The Gorbals E4 6a ** 31
224 Slabaholics Anonymous 7a+ ** 13
225 Black Daisies For The Bride E5 6b 1
226 Slabology 7a * 31
227 Tennent's Creek E2 5b  
228 Fetzer E2 5b  
229 Franzia E2 5b  
230 Turkey Trot VS 4c 2
231 A Swarm of Green Parrots VS 4c 1
  Alice Springs
233 Koala Bare E2 5b  
234 Men of Leisure E4 6a ** 10
235 No Feart of the Boaby 6b+ ** 14
236 Celtic Blood 6a * 30
237 Flying Death Fin (or is it Dutch?) HVS 4c 1
238 Captain Condom and the Mothers of Prevention E3 6b 2
239 Eyes Wide Shut E5 6b * 2
240 Where is My Mind E6 6b * 1
241 Goblin Party VS 4b * 31
242 Alice Springs E3 5c 1
243 Out There Left 5b 1
244 Out There Right 5b 3
245 The Ghostly Hipster 5b * 15
246 The Last Amendment 5b * 9
247 Bear Knee Cessity 6a+ ** 6
  Back Wall
249 Big Thursday XS * 2
250 If You Kill People They Die XS  
251 Conquistadors of the Useless XS  
  Darwin Level
253 Another Wasted Journey E1 4c  
254 Easy Routes Can Have Bolts Too! 5c 1
255 Dont Look Back in Bangor E3 5b  
256 Room with a view 7b ** 2
257 The Faffer E6 6b **  
258 The Very Old and the Very New ? 4
259 Wish You Were Here 7c ***  
  Cape York Slab
261 Cape York Approach 4b 3
262 Lucky Break 6c+ ** 3
263 Cape York Traverse 6a+ * 1
264 Cape York Crack 6a+ 2
265 High Stakes 6b+ 1
266 A Brucie Bonus 6b ** 3
267 Cape York Slab VS 4b 5
  Ayers Rock
269 Ayer Head 6c+ * 2
270 Kata Tjuta Rib 6a+ ** 2
271 Ayers and Graces 6c+ ** 3
  East Face
273 Snakes and Ladders - Australia M ** 19
  THE BOTANY BAY LEVEL
275 Road to Botany Bay 7a ** 13
276 Impact Zone 7a ** 10
277 Wave Rock 6c ** 13
278 Sylvanian Waters E2 5c ** 2
279 The Garet Slide 4a 8
280 Birthday Girl 7b *  
  THE G'DAY LEVEL
282 Spicy Little Octopus 6a+ * 11
283 G'Day Corner 7a+ * 1
284 Walk this way 7a ** 28
285 Hogiau Pen Garet 6a+ * 65
286 Raise The Roof 7a+ * 1
287 The Koala Brothers 6b 20
288 G'Day Arete 6c *** 116
289 Jack the Ripper E4 6a  
  THE FAR OUT LEVEL
291 Far From the Madding Crowd E4 6a *  
292 The Curious Incident 6a * 16
293 To infinity and beyond! 6b ** 7
294 Ride like the wind! 6b+ * 5
295 Cirith Ungol 7a+ ** 7
296 Atticus Finch 6c 2
  The Dark Tower
  VILCABAMBA
299 Not quite snakes and ladders HVS 18
300 Where the Green Ants Dream E5 6a 4
301 The Dark Tower 8a+ ** 1
302 The Serpent Vein 8b ***  
303 Buffer in a Crack House XS  
  Grand Days Out
305 A Grand Day Out 6b+ ** 220
306 A Very Trad Day Out E1 5b **  
307 An Extreme Day Out E4 ** 1
308 West Face of Australia (Link Up) E1 5b ** 22
309 West Face of Australia Direct (Link Up) E3 6a ** 3
310 West Face of Australia Super Direct (Link Up) E4 6a **  
  as yet unsorted new routes!!
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderators Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteers chrisdavies and harold walmsley