Climbs 288
Rocktype Slate
Altitude 376m a.s.l

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As ever an atmospheric day in the slate quarries © James Rushforth

Crag features

Marked as "Garret" on OS maps.
This is the biggest of all the quarried holes, with the most levels, so it does take a while to get your bearings, especially as there are many different access points, inc..various tunnels.
The rock quality does vary accross the many levels and areas, but some very good slate can been found here.

Approach notes

Reached from Bus Stop Quarry, continuing around the path, the main access is gained just before you drop down to dali`s hole,on the main path, by hopping the gate on the left, 100 yards after going through the swing gate. Head up the three levels in front of you untill you reach the `looning the tube` level. from here, you get a good vantage point to asess where you want to go.
The steps off to the right as you reach this level will take you up to eastern Australia levels.
Go back down one level, and walk through the right hand tunnel, (headtorch handy),and take the r/hand spur inside, this will bring you out onto a slightly loose but ok scree path where you can gain access to (Great Bores of Today, and The Wow Wow).
The other way to access these routes along with the lower areas of Aus, would be to walk past Dali`s Wall, two levels down, and find the tight squeeze entrance to the lowest of the tunnels, enter at your own risk, it seams ok, and it`s been like that for some time now!!!

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Guidebooks

North Wales Climbs

North Wales Climbs covers the best climbing from the whole of this huge and varied area. The book is modelled on the very popular West Country Climbs which set a new standard for selected climb guidebooks back in 2010. It contains all the routes from the 2010 publication North Wales Classics and many more routes and areas, with expanded descriptions and much bigger photo-topos. The book covers all the major mountain crags from Llanberis Pass, to Cloggy; and from Ogwen to the Carneddau. It also includes the Llanberis Slate quarries, Tremadog, the Moelwyns, the Gwynant Valley, Mid-Wales, Gogarth and the North Coast Limestone.
More info
More Guidebooks:
North Wales Slate (2018)
Llanberis Slate (2011)
North Wales Rock (2006)
Slate (1992)
The Slate Wiki
I had my car broken into and bags stole on 24/08/19 at the upper car park (Fruitbat Level), so everyone just take care to leave nothing on display
Kit Pannell - 27/Aug/19
It is reported that recent rockfall from left of Digital Delectation may have affected the approaches to Skyline and Fruitbat levels.
harold walmsley - 23/Dec/17
The previous comment no longer applies. The routes are now described in the correct places.
harold walmsley - 23/Dec/17
Please note that the following routes, which are currently listed as in the Cape York Slab Area, are actually elsewhere (correct areas in brackets): Spicy Little Octopus (G'day Level), Kata Tjuta Rib (Ayers Rock), Barker (Gorbals Level) and Cape York Approach (Darwin Level). Also the "Far Away Top Level" is the same as the Darwin Level so these two should be merged.
harold walmsley - 28/May/15
The "Down under Pans" level can be approached from Looning the Tube or Railtrack areas by traversing under Railtrack. From Upper Australia it is easier to traverse the Fruitbat level, descend to Salt Pans and continue down the scree for one level.
harold walmsley - 17/Apr/14
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Lower Walls
  Billabong
3 Great Bores of Today 7a ** 19
4 The Wow Wow E4 6a ** 10
5 The Dunlop Green Flash XS  
6 Darkness Visible E4 6a  
7 Øyenstikker 7a * 2
8 Illegal Smeagol VS 4a 6
9 Runup VS 4a 10
10 Fontaineslab 7a * 2
  Temple of Boom
12 Dekophobia 7a 5
13 Son of Rabbit E2 5c 1
14 Temple of Boom HVS  
15 My Secret Garden 7b 2
  Tasmania
17 Arnie Meets the Swamp Monster E1 5a  
18 Toilet Trouble E2 5c  
19 Stinky Boots E2 5b  
  The Rognon
21 Joie De Vivre HS 4a  
22 Theftus Maximus E1 5b 2
23 Little Mo HS 4a  
24 Abattoir Blues E2 5c * 7
25 Genital Persuasion E3 5c 9
26 Single Factor E2 5c * 7
27 Second Thoughts VS 4b  
  Looning the Tube
  Loony Bouldering
30 Daily politics f5 1
31 Loon lord f6A 1
32 Square meal f6A ** 1
33 Yard arm f6A+ ** 1
34 Cat o nine tails f6A+ 1
35 Entrance exam f6A * 1
36 Little piggies f5+ * 2
37 House sale. f6A 1
38 Solar storm f6C * 1
39 Briefs f5 1
40 A=1 f6B+ ** 1
41 Echo chamber f5 1
42 Afterburner V5 2
  Loony Routes
44 Puddy Kat 5a 58
45 Just for Fun E2 5c * 215
46 The Burning 6b+ * 326
47 The Deceptive Dyke 5c * 621
48 1066 6b 67
49 N.E. Spur E3 5c 1
50 Loony Toons E3 5c * 12
51 Brief Encounter HVS 5a * 168
52 Astroman from the Planet Zzzoink E3 6a  
53 Planet Zzzoink Arete E3 5c  
54 The Man Who Fell to Earth E2 5c 3
55 Donald Duck 6c * 99
56 Gadaffi Duck 6b+ ** 852
57 Sad Man Who's Sane VS 4c * 864
58 U.B.L HS 4b 689
59 Hyperfly 6a+ * 443
60 Turn of the Century E2 5c ** 351
61 Maximum Tariff 6b * 675
62 Buffalo Smashed in Head Jump E4 5c 23
63 Dried-Mouth Sesame Seed 5c 184
64 Technical Hamster 6c 16
65 Technical Hamster Dance HVS 4b 7
66 Dried-Mouth Frog HS HS 4a 127
67 Swan Hunter Direct Debit E6 6b ** 1
68 Swan Hunter E4 6b ** 37
69 Goose Creature E3 6a ** 835
70 Menai Vice E4 6c ** 32
71 Hysterectomy E5 5c * 11
72 Looning the Tube E1 5a *** 2240
73 Zzzooming The Tube E3 6a * 42
74 Pruning the Tube E2 5c * 54
75 Exhuming the Tube E3 5c * 36
76 Bise-Mon-Cul E2 5c ** 109
77 Mad on the Metro E4 5c * 38
78 Gerboa Racer E4 5c  
79 Fuck Les Clotures 5a * 36
80 A Selfish Act of Loonacy E3 6a *  
81 Germag Anglar E3 6a ** 1
  Above the Rails
83 Sport 4 All 5a 564
84 Kinder Surprise 5a * 925
85 Surprise Surprise 6a * 1010
86 Shorty's Dyno (Short Person's Method) 6c+ 236
87 Shorty's Dyno (Tall Person's Method) 6a * 61
88 Orangutang Overhang 6a+ ** 778
89 Cyber World Sl@te Heads 6a+ * 441
90 Steps of Glory 5a ** 1197
91 Sl@tehead's Arête 6a+ * 35
  Railtrack Slab
93 Patio Doors of Perception E3 6a  
94 Cartoon Lesbian 6a+ 66
95 The Fat Controller 6b * 38
96 Scarface Claw 6b+ ** 64
97 Red Throated Diver 6b+ ** 66
98 2nd Class Passenger E2 5c * 51
99 Sleeper 6c 22
100 Crazy Train 6c ** 62
101 Ancestral Vices E4 6b * 12
102 Off the Beaten Track E3 5c *** 95
103 Uncle Nick's Broken Toe E5 6b *  
104 Here to Stay, Gone Tomorrow E3 6a * 3
105 Between Here and Now E3 6a ** 21
106 The Toms Approach E4 5c 1
Climb name Grade
107 Now or Never Never E5 5c  
108 Better Slate than Never 6a+ * 2
109 A Grand Day Out Pitch 1 6a 12
110 Psychodelicate 7c ** 6
111 The Ghan 6b * 7
  The Salt Pans
113 Zut Alors 6c+ *** 26
114 Y Rhaffwr 6c ** 10
115 Stretched to the Limit 6c+ * 2
116 The Rack 6b+ * 8
117 Narcolepsy 7a+ * 1
118 The Australian 6b ** 14
119 The Australian 6b **  
120 Jenny Wren VD  
121 The Stream of Obscenity 7a * 6
122 Kosciusko VS 4b * 2
  The Sidings
124 Puffing Billy S 4a 24
125 Not known 6a * 112
126 Glass Axe E5 7a * 9
127 'N' Gauge 5c * 587
128 Pointless E1 5b 3
129 Side line 4c * 705
130 Derailed 4a 594
131 Thomas the Tank 4a * 640
132 Rack and pin 5c * 663
133 Sodor 6a * 1024
134 Above the Line
-
HVS 4c 17
135 The Mallard 5c * 947
136 The Polar Express 5c * 801
137 Ivor the Engine 5a * 915
138 Gordon 3c * 709
139 The Level Crossing 5c * 184
140 Being a Bob 5a * 126
141 Those who climb clearly marked projects... 5c * 457
142 Choo Choo 5c * 386
143 Hogwarts Express 5c * 342
144 The Railway children 6a ** 433
145 In Loving Memory 6a+ ** 312
146 Grand Day Out Pitch 2 5a ** 27
  Fruitbat Level
148 Solitude Standing E3 6a 3
149 Eric the Fruitbat E3 5c * 6
150 Harder Than It Looks 6a+ ** 58
151 Mum I'm Scared Arete VS 4a 2
152 M.I.L. Arete E1 5b * 99
153 Genevive E2 5c * 14
154 Rory's Unfinished Business HVS 4c  
155 Pontiac Arete VS 4c 15
156 Stretched Limo E2 5c * 10
157 Ham-mer Time Arete 6c * 1
158 Gymnastic Fantastic 6c+ * 18
159 Slatebite 7a+ ** 68
160 The Christening of New Boots E1 5b 1
161 Rock Athletes' Day Off HVS 5b 2
162 Albatross 7b ** 2
  Zippy Level
164 Jepp the Knave 7b+ * 2
165 Last Chance For a Slow Dance E3 5b 2
166 In On The Kill Taker E5 6b * 1
167 The Beanstalk . 7a ** 26
168 And a Pen Please HVS 5a 8
169 Boulevard of Broken Dreams 7a+ * 33
170 Rastaman Vibration E2 6a * 62
171 Razorback HVS 5a ** 176
172 Putting on Ayres E4 6c * 9
173 Feeling Rusty? 6b+ * 175
174 Zippy's First Acid Trip E1 5c * 24
175 Your Ma E1 5c ** 6
176 Ziplock 7b ** 7
177 Indiana Jasmine And The Topple Of Doom! 5c * 36
178 Second's Chance VS 4c 8
179 Cross Eyed Tammy HVS 5a 2
180 Resurrection Shuffle E4 6b **  
181 The Samba Drum E3 5c * 17
182 Pulverised 7b 3
183 De Nouement 7b 6
184 Thumberlina 7c ** 1
  Skyline Buttress
186 Digital Delectation HVS 5a ** 222
187 Good Afternoon Constable VS 4c 72
188 Dolmen HVS 5a 26
189 Menhir VS 4c 20
190 The Skyline Club. E2 5c * 73
191 Antiquity E1 5a * 26
192 Ruby Marlee meets Dr Holingsworth ! E1 5b ** 163
193 Act Naturally VS 4b * 237
194 Ronald Reagan meets Doctor Strangelove E2 5b * 46
195 Lindy Lou HVS 4b 4
196 Plastic Soldier 6a ** 687
197 Clash of the Titans 6a ** 471
198 The Dreaming E1 5b 1
199 Mad Dog of the West VS 5a ** 307
200 The Methane Monster E1 5b 15
201 Binwomen VS 4b 19
202 Up the Garden Path HS 4b 57
203 Billy Two Tokes E1 5b 22
204 Youthslayer VS 5a ** 7
205 SlabSlayer 6b ** 35
206 Harri Bach Llanrug 6a ** 151
207 Rock Yoga 7a+ ** 79
208 Put it on the Slate, Waiter E4 6a ** 22
209 Kylie's Stunning Slot 6c * 2
210 Toe be or not Toe be... 7b 17
  The Gorbals
212 T time traverse V4 1
Climb name Grade
213 Barker V4 6b 1
214 Mynd am Aur 7a * 61
215 Slab Rog 6b+ *** 95
216 The Olympic Torch 6b+ ** 58
217 The Shining VS 4c 9
218 Mister Blister 7a * 15
219 Men at Work E3 6a ** 21
220 The North Face of the Aga E3 6a * 2
221 Filler E3 6a *  
222 Sprint Finish 6a * 16
223 Old and Complicated under the Oak Tree 5b * 21
224 Youthanasia E2 5b  
225 See You Bruce E3 5b ** 59
226 Glasgow Kiss 7b+ ** 7
227 The Gorbals E4 6a ** 34
228 Slabaholics Anonymous 7a+ ** 16
229 Black Daisies For The Bride E5 6b 1
230 Slabology 7a * 32
231 Tennent's Creek E2 5b  
232 Fetzer E2 5b  
233 Franzia E2 5b  
234 Turkey Trot VS 4c 2
235 A Swarm of Green Parrots VS 4c 1
  Alice Springs
237 Koala Bare E2 5b  
238 Splatatak 6a+ * 1
239 Men of Leisure E4 6a ** 10
240 No Feart of the Boaby 6b+ ** 19
241 Celtic Blood 6a * 43
242 Flying Death Fin (or is it Dutch?) HVS 4c 1
243 Captain Condom and the Mothers of Prevention E3 6b 2
244 Eyes Wide Shut E5 6b * 2
245 Where is My Mind E6 6b * 1
246 Goblin Party VS 4b * 36
247 Alice Springs E3 5c 1
248 Out There Left 5b 7
249 Out There Right 5b 9
250 The Ghostly Hipster 5b * 34
251 The Last Amendment 5b * 26
252 Bear Knee Cessity 6a+ ** 16
  Back Wall
254 Big Thursday XS * 2
255 If You Kill People They Die XS  
256 Conquistadors of the Useless XS  
  Darwin Level
258 Another Wasted Journey E1 4c  
259 Easy Routes Can Have Bolts Too! 5c 1
260 Dont Look Back in Bangor E3 5b  
261 Room with a view 7b ** 2
262 The Faffer E6 6b **  
263 The Very Old and the Very New ? 4
264 Wish You Were Here 7c ***  
  Cape York Slab
266 Cape York Approach 4b 3
267 Lucky Break 6c+ ** 3
268 Cape York Traverse 6a+ * 1
269 Cape York Crack 6a+ 2
270 High Stakes 6b+ 1
271 A Brucie Bonus 6b ** 3
272 Cape York Slab VS 4b 5
  Ayers Rock
274 Ayer Head 6c+ * 2
275 Kata Tjuta Rib 6a+ ** 2
276 Ayers and Graces 6c+ ** 3
  East Face
278 Snakes and Ladders - Australia M ** 54
  THE BOTANY BAY LEVEL
280 Road to Botany Bay 7a ** 14
281 Impact Zone 7a ** 11
282 Wave Rock 6c ** 13
283 Sylvanian Waters E2 5c ** 2
284 The Garet Slide 4a 8
285 Birthday Girl 7b *  
  THE G'DAY LEVEL
287 Spicy Little Octopus 6a+ * 13
288 G'Day Corner 7a+ * 2
289 Walk this way 7a ** 31
290 Hogiau Pen Garet 6a+ * 69
291 Raise The Roof 7a+ * 2
292 The Koala Brothers 6b 22
293 G'Day Arete 6c *** 132
294 Jack the Ripper E4 6a  
295 Hack the Jugular 6c * 2
  THE FAR OUT LEVEL
297 Far From the Madding Crowd E4 6a *  
298 The Curious Incident 6a * 21
299 To infinity and beyond! 6b ** 10
300 Ride like the wind! 6b+ * 6
301 Cirith Ungol 7a+ ** 9
302 Atticus Finch 6c 2
  The Dark Tower
  VILCABAMBA
305 Not quite snakes and ladders HVS 18
306 Where the Green Ants Dream E5 6a 4
307 The Dark Tower 8a+ ** 1
308 The Serpent Vein 8b ***  
309 Buffer in a Crack House XS  
  Grand Days Out
311 A Grand Day Out 6b+ ** 225
312 A Very Trad Day Out E1 5b **  
313 An Extreme Day Out E4 ** 1
314 West Face of Australia (Link Up) E1 5b ** 24
315 West Face of Australia Direct (Link Up) E3 6a ** 3
316 West Face of Australia Super Direct (Link Up) E4 6a **  
  as yet unsorted new routes!!
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderators Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteers chrisdavies and harold walmsley