Please refrain from climbing outside

Due to the ongoing spread of Covid-19, please abstain from climbing outside.

At UKC we are all climbers and we understand the strong urge to be outdoors as the weather is finally improving, but we feel this is no longer socially acceptable. You can read our statement here.

We have suspended the UKC Logbooks Top Ascents and Conditions pages and we will no longer accept ascents dated from 23rd March onwards. You can still upload your historic ascents.

UKClimbing Team

Climbs 312
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 50m a.s.l
Faces E

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The Great Orme Sunset © Alejandro

Crag features

Pen Trwyn has established itself as the most popular sport climbing area in Wales. This is despite the strict access requirements which prevent climbing during some of the busiest times. The main reason for Pen Trwyn's popularity is that, with the exception of Portland, there is nowhere else in the country that climbers can enjoy so many high quality, well-bolted sport routes. However it isn't all sport routes since in amongst the bolts is a number of fine traditional challenges which add greatly to the appeal of the cliffs.
The situation above the marine drive makes for easy access but also limits climbing away from the popular holiday weekends and the school summer holidays.

Approach notes

Get yourself to Llandudno and you can't miss the fine curving line of cliffs of Pen Trwyn on the headland to the west. To get onto the Marine Drive, turn left along the sea front and continue around to a toll gate. (The current toll here is £3.50 for cars. To avoid the toll arrive early or late. A season ticket can be bought you intend to come here more than three times a year). The cliffs start a little further along by the caves of the Dumbell Flyer Area. From here they are fairly continuous for the next mile and you can usually park roughly underneath your chosen sector, however take great care not to block the road.

Restricted Access

The 2nd pitches of Touchstone and Confuse the Aardvark are both banned for public safety reasons.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Birds (Kestrels)  occasionally nest in the hole on the route "Norman's Wisdom" and  it would be wise to avoid that route and the routes immediately either side of it from 1st March to 31st July.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Android and iOS devices.


Guidebooks

North Wales Climbs

North Wales Climbs covers the best climbing from the whole of this huge and varied area. The book is modelled on the very popular West Country Climbs which set a new standard for selected climb guidebooks back in 2010. It contains all the routes from the 2010 publication North Wales Classics and many more routes and areas, with expanded descriptions and much bigger photo-topos. The book covers all the major mountain crags from Llanberis Pass, to Cloggy; and from Ogwen to the Carneddau. It also includes the Llanberis Slate quarries, Tremadog, the Moelwyns, the Gwynant Valley, Mid-Wales, Gogarth and the North Coast Limestone.
More info
More Guidebooks:
North Wales Limestone (2014)
North Wales Rock (2006)

Out of print:
Needs a few more access notes surely?! ie Due to the increased number of visitors who are likley to be exposed to falling rock, climbing during bank holidayy weekends and during the period July 15th to Septemebr 8th is restricted until after 6pm in the evenings. The Mumbo-Jumbo and Parisellas Cave areas are not affected by these restrictions. And: Due to suspect rock and the proximity of the public road, climbing is only permitted on routes which are between the green painted marker posts and have fixed lower-offs. Routes and areas of cliff between the red painted posts are banned due to instable rock and the risk of falling rock injuring passers-by. All routes finish at BMC installed and maintained lower-offs - and on no account should climbers continue beyond these to the top of the crag due to the increased risk of falling rock and to protect rare and protected plant species. from BMC RAD
Bulls Crack - 28/Apr/13
A good venue when (typically) raining in the hills. A good venue for the aspiring E1 leader, with several soft touches at the grade.
Owen W-G - 05/Sep/08
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Dumbell Flyer
2 Green Flash
-
5c 97
3 The Seagull Has Landed
-
7b 4
4 The Apostle
-
7a+ 15
5 Hom Rescue
-
6b * 74
6 The Graduate
-
6b * 86
7 Brewing Up with Phil Smith
-
7a+ * 15
8 Ring Peace
-
7b+ * 7
9 The Burning Sphincter
-
7a+ * 14
10 The Breck Road
-
7a+ * 11
11 Tales of No Power
-
7a+ * 22
12 Bring Back Fred Gwynne
-
7a ** 22
13 The Mask
-
7b+ * 15
14 Dumbell Flyer
-
E4 6a 6
15 Ace of Wands
-
7b * 6
16 The Damage Religion
-
7b+ * 4
17 Snakebite
-
7b  
18 Aerial Multigym
-
7a+ * 4
19 Tomorrow People
-
7c ** 30
20 Harry's Zontal Band
-
7b ** 4
21 Werry's Woof Woot Left-hand
-
7b * 49
22 Werry's Woof Woot
-
7a+ * 61
23 Social Loafer * 7a+  
24 A Touch Too Much * 7b+  
25 Social Distance * 7c+ ** 1
  Mumbo Jumbo
27 Lizzy Askins 7a+ 2
28 The Fly
-
7b+ * 9
29 Parting Shot
-
6c+ * 11
30 Brothers in Arms
-
6c ** 56
31 Mumbo Jumbo
-
6a ** 279
32 Tony's Route
-
6a+ * 59
33 Tears as Souvenirs
-
6b * 136
34 Tears as Souvenirs Direct Finish 6b 29
35 Fears for Tears
-
6c * 74
36 Fears For Beers
-
6c+ 5
37 Shadows and Lights
-
7b * 2
38 Pink and Black
-
6c * 20
39 Purple Tight Fright
-
6c 9
40 The Triad
-
6b+ * 19
41 Taipan
-
7b+ * 7
42 Split Infinity 6b+ 36
43 Simon Says 8a ** 10
44 Split Infinity Direct 6c+ 7
45 Under Your Nose * 8a+ **  
  Mayfair
47 Nostradamus
-
6c+ * 4
48 King Krank E5 6b ** 61
49 Body Torque 7b+ * 34
50 Body Torque Direct 7c ** 33
51 Axle Attack 7a+ *** 457
52 True Blood 7a+ ** 6
53 Bloodsports 7b *** 220
54 The Bloods 7a+ ** 375
55 Cold Blood 8a ** 7
56 Bad Blood 7c+ * 3
57 Blood Lust 7c * 14
58 Contusion 6c ** 583
59 Contusion Extension 6c+ *** 115
60 Senile Penile Extension 7b+ * 37
61 Mayfair 7a+ ** 246
62 Julio Juvenito 7a ** 133
63 Julio Juvento Extension 7a+ ** 14
64 Carrigan's Groove E5 6b * 10
65 Harry the Clamp 7a+ * 37
66 Master Plan 8a+ *** 6
67 The Disillusioned Screw Machine E6 6b *** 23
68 Masterclass 7c+ *** 7
69 Thunder Road E6 6b ** 1
70 Oyster 8a *** 7
71 The Bearded Clam 7a+ *** 85
72 Reader's Wives 7a+ *** 13
73 Needle in the Groove 7c ** 9
74 Rupture E5 6c ** 4
75 Rapture E4 6b ** 21
76 Plagued by Fools 7b+ ** 20
77 Anchovy Madonna E3 5c *** 167
78 Plagued by Anchovies
-
6c+ * 8
79 Wall of Blutes 6b+ * 24
80 Conner's Folly
-
E1 5b ** 132
81 Just for Kicks
-
7a * 5
82 The Witches of Pen Trwyn 7c+ * 1
83 Burslem Boys
-
6c+ * 16
  Hanging Rock
85 The Wall Of Goutes 6b 33
86 Gripper Clipper 7a * 1
87 Slouching Towards Bethlehem 7b ** 10
88 De Torquemada 7b+ ** 4
89 The Picnic 7b+ ** 1
90 Jerusalem is Lost 7a ** 26
91 Perthy Thrower 6a 55
  The Cutaway
93 Half Man, Half Beard
-
7a * 32
94 The Amazing Bearded Lady 7b+ ** 19
95 Rock Lobster
-
8a ** 3
96 Rodney God and the Oral Twins 8b ** 9
97 John Paul and the Vatican 7
-
7c ** 11
98 Who Framed Roger Rabbi
-
7b+ * 3
  Testament to Pure Gold
100 Testament 6c+ ** 174
101 Testicle 7a  
102 Talisman 7a * 35
103 Touchstone 6c+ ** 28
104 Confuse the Aardvark 7b 3
105 Jungle Jive E2 5c 4
106 Bored Games 7a+ * 10
107 Clutch * f7C+ * 1
108 Snout *
-
f7C * 8
109 Aardvark Start V6 ** 18
110 Norman Direct V7 ** 11
Climb name Grade
111 Norman's Wisdom Tooth 6c+ * 5
112 Norman's Wisdom 6c+ ** 100
113 Hot Sexy Phone Talk 6c+ * 33
114 Norman's Wisdom Traverse V6 9
115 The Lyon King 7a+ * 15
116 Lipstick
-
E5 F6c * 1
117 It E2 5b * 222
118 Gold Digger
-
E2 5c 31
119 Precious Metal E1 5b ** 426
120 Midas Touch
-
E4 6a * 8
121 Magical Ring 7a+ ** 29
122 Billy The Fish 7c+ 1
123 Gold 'n' Delicious 7a+ ** 30
124 Pot of Gold 6c+ * 13
125 Pure Gold 6c+ ** 54
126 Capturing the Coelacanth 7b ** 19
127 Love Over Gold E3 6a * 40
128 Afterthought HVS 5a * 4
129 Goldeneye 7b+  
130 Zig HVS 5a 4
131 Easy, Norman! * f5 2
132 Hebenwi * f7B+ * 2
  Plumbline
134 Wings of Perception 7b+ ** 6
135 Gold Rush E6 6b *** 26
136 Plumbline E3 5c *** 320
137 Scary Canary E5 6a *** 79
138 Really scary canary E5 6a ** 1
139 Flakeaway E5 6b ** 27
140 Zag HVS 5a 4
141 The Stairs of Cirith Ungol HS 4a 2
142 Plumbline Traverse V5 ** 27
  Quicksilver
144 Hot Club
-
E4 6a * 12
145 Vagal Inhibition E2 5c ** 137
146 Sussudio E3 6a * 48
147 Prospectors E4 6a * 22
148 The 24 Karat Start 7a+ * 3
149 Price of Gold E4 6b ** 25
150 Price of Gold Direct E5 6b * 5
151 Quicksilver 7a *** 197
152 The Electric Cool-aid Acid Test 7b+ *** 17
153 The Alchemist's Dream
-
E4 6a 11
  Firefly
155 Private Investigations E5 6b * 9
156 Too Low for Zero E3 6
157 Klondike E3 6a ** 81
158 Pocket City E3 6a ** 63
159 Sourdough E4 6a * 21
160 Sourdough Direct E5 6b * 1
161 Iron in My Soul
-
6c+ * 9
162 Solid Gold E3 6a ** 119
163 Captain Fingers 7a+ ** 47
164 Firefly E3 5c *** 189
165 Mr. Chips 7a ** 115
166 You've had Your Chips 7b ** 25
167 After the Gold Rush 6c * 34
168 The Bar Spangled Banner
-
6c * 3
169 Silver Surfer 6c+ * 68
170 Cage full of Budgies
-
7a 10
  Excursion
172 No Bark, No Drill 7c ** 6
173 Barking Up the Wrong Tree 7b ** 18
174 No Arc, No Bark 7a+ ** 64
175 Excursion Direct 6c+ ** 102
176 Call It Black E4 6a * 15
177 Excursion E2 5b *** 313
178 The Arc of Eternity E4 6a ** 25
179 Swift Gundercut E5 6a * 2
180 The Visionary E3 6a ** 57
181 Clear White Light E3 6a ** 66
182 Clear White Light Direct E4 6a * 7
183 Beaverbrook E5 6a * 23
184 Pershing II
-
E2 5b 5
185 Cruise Missile
-
E2 5c 4
  Deep Fix
187 Ivor Bigum 7b * 4
188 Utter from the Gutter 7c * 4
189 The Cold War 7a * 37
190 Belay Bunny Bounces Back 6a ** 209
191 Insidious Practices E2 5c * 36
192 Two-ton Caiman 7b * 16
193 Welcome to the Power Bulge 7b+ * 15
194 The Deep Fix E1 5b * 31
195 Vic 20 HVS 5b * 69
196 The Really Exciting Climb VS 5a ** 126
197 The Turquoise Turtle E3 6a * 7
198 Space Invaders E2 5b * 36
199 Astro Blaster
-
E4 6a 4
200 Paradise 6c * 16
201 The Bounty Hunters E3 5c * 9
  Lookout Area
203 Stake Out
-
7a * 13
204 Eliminator
-
7a+ * 21
205 Methylated Laughter
-
7a+ * 14
206 Adequate Compensation 6b+ * 40
207 Big is Best
-
6a+ * 49
208 Go for Gold
-
E1 5b * 27
209 New Gold Dream
-
E1 5b * 32
210 Fool's Gold
-
6c 28
211 Romancing the Stone
-
E4 6b * 3
212 Golden Confusion
-
HVS 5a 11
213 Passionate Friend
-
E1 5b * 67
214 Bruno His Wall
-
HVS 5a * 49
215 Uaeba
-
E5 6b 3
216 Sheik yer Money
-
6c ** 69
217 George Formby
-
7a+ * 21
218 Masada
-
E5 6b * 6
219 Silage Time
-
7a * 53
220 The Blood Red Game
-
HVS 4c 4
Climb name Grade
221 Meanstreak
-
E5 6b 6
222 Hom's Punk
-
E5 6a ** 11
223 The Jehad E5 6b ** 9
  Chain Gang
225 Pil
-
E1 5b 54
226 Primrose Walk E2 5c ** 23
227 Yellow Belly
-
E3 5c 19
228 Beachcomber
-
HVS 5b 14
229 Pen Trwyn Pilots
-
E4 6b * 3
230 Corinthian Groove 8b * 3
231 Foulish, Goulish 7b+ *** 52
232 Mr. Olympia E5 6b *** 35
233 Olympus Trip E6 6b ** 4
234 Iron Man 7b ** 7
235 Chain Gang E5 6b *** 65
236 More Genius E5 6b ** 23
237 Precious Time E4 6a * 60
238 Coiled Spine
-
E1 5b 16
239 The Stirrer
-
E2 5c 28
240 Kanly E2 5b ** 86
241 Bauxed HVS 5a ** 145
242 Reaving Slaying Conan VS 4c 4
243 Once in a Blue Moon
-
6b+ 7
  Yellow Wall
245 Badger Badger Badger 8a+ ** 4
246 Dive, Dive, Dive 7b ** 71
247 Crunchy Toad IX 7a+ * 79
248 White Seam
-
6b * 9
249 Melkor E3 5c * 84
250 Pen Trwyn Patrol E4 6a ** 68
251 Cornhollio 7b * 21
252 The Nut Cluster
-
E4 6a 7
253 The Pirates of Pen Trwyn 6c+ *** 190
254 String of Pearls 6b+ *** 482
255 Pale Shelter E1 5b ** 260
256 Second Sense
-
E4 6a 4
257 Lemon Entry
-
6c 8
258 The continuing adventures of Charlton Chestwig E4 6a 4
  Black Walls
260 Spine Chill
-
6c+ * 70
261 Blackwall Tunnel
-
7a+ * 7
262 Menincursion
-
6c+ ** 60
263 The Peppermint Pig
-
E3 6a * 19
264 Willowbrooks Direct
-
7a+ * 12
265 The Lull
-
7b 14
266 Willowbrooks
-
7a * 11
267 Storm Warning
-
7a * 28
268 Drip, Drip, Drip Direct
-
7a * 12
269 Drip, Drip, Drip
-
6c ** 30
270 Wet Dreams
-
7a * 18
271 Captain Percival
-
6a+ * 154
272 Clutching at Squaws
-
6b+ * 83
273 Hot Chick 6b+ 16
274 Washington Waltz
-
E5 6b  
275 Salty Dog
-
E1 5b 4
276 Pure Mania
-
E3 5c 2
277 Lets lynch the landlord
-
E2 5c 10
278 Winterreise
-
6b 31
279 Secondhand Daylight
-
6b+ ** 13
280 Night-Time Rendezvous
-
6c+ 18
281 Nightwatch 6c * 13
282 Dave's Rent-a-Drill Co
-
E2 5b * 4
  Homo Sapien
284 Abducted by Aliens 6c+  
285 2211
-
7a+ * 9
286 Ten Forty
-
7a 7
287 Karaoke Club
-
7a+ ** 5
288 Thin Red Line 7a+ ** 9
289 Blue Steel 7c **  
290 Homo Sexual 7b+  
291 Candle in the Wind 7a+ * 6
292 The Eleventh Hour
-
6c 1
293 Sonic Sinbad 7a * 23
294 The Thin Turquoise Line 6c+ * 36
295 Homo Erectus 7b ** 23
296 Homo Sapien 7a+ *** 127
297 White Hopes 7b *** 57
298 Snakes and Ladders 7c+ * 1
299 Sèverine 7b+ * 2
300 After the Fact
-
E4 6b 1
301 Raw
-
7a+ ** 2
302 The Gold Coast
-
E3 5c * 36
303 Watch Your Poison
-
7b *  
304 Loose Lingo
-
E4 6a 1
  End of the Road
306 Absolute Beginners
-
E2 5b 5
307 Frontiers of Reality
-
6a+ 17
308 Michelle's Pillar
-
E1 5b 11
309 Small Bore
-
6b+ * 17
310 Counting Crows
-
7c  
311 The Happening Boys
-
E4 6a 3
312 Sucking the Short Straw
-
E3 6a 3
313 More Quizzical then Physical
-
7b+ ** 5
314 Physical Abuse
-
7b+ * 2
315 Eco-Mouse
-
7b * 7
316 Treat Me Like a Person
-
6a+ * 42
317 Years of Abuse
-
6b+ 20
318 Reading Henry by the Road
-
6a+ 39
  Location Unknown
320 The Silmarillion
-
E3 6a 1
321 Squawk
-
6b 1
322 Planned Obsolescence 5c 8
323 Fall Back E5 6b * 2
324 Ward 10 E6 6b ** 2
325 Serious Trad 7a+ 2
326 Kanly Direct Start E3 5c ** 1
327 Get on the Beam
-
E2 5c 2
328 Big Licks E4 6a * 9
329 Pirates of Pen Trwyn Patrol (Link) E2 5b ** 1
330 Zawn Creature * 6c+ ** 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Luke Owens