Climbs 302
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 50m a.s.l
Faces E

The Great Orme Sunset © Alejandro

Crag features

Pen Trwyn has established itself as the most popular sport climbing area in Wales. This is despite the strict access requirements which prevent climbing during some of the busiest times. The main reason for Pen Trwyn's popularity is that, with the exception of Portland, there is nowhere else in the country that climbers can enjoy so many high quality, well-bolted sport routes. However it isn't all sport routes since in amongst the bolts is a number of fine traditional challenges which add greatly to the appeal of the cliffs.
The situation above the marine drive makes for easy access but also limits climbing away from the popular holiday weekends and the school summer holidays.

Approach notes

Get yourself to Llandudno and you canât miss the fine curving line of cliffs of Pen Trwyn on the headland to the west. To get onto the Marine Drive, turn left along the sea front and continue around to a toll gate. (The current toll here is £3 for cars. To avoid the toll arrive early or late. A season ticket can be bought you intend to come here more than three times a year). The cliffs start a little further along by the caves of the Dumbell Flyer Area. From here they are fairly continuous for the next mile and you can usually park roughly underneath your chosen sector, however take great care not to block the road.

Access Advice

The 2nd pitches of Touchstone and Confuse the Aardvark are both banned for public safety reasons.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Birds (Kestrels)  occasionally nest in the hole on the route "Norman's Wisdom" and  it would be wise to avoid that route and the routes immediately either side of it from 1st March to 31st July.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

North Wales Climbs

North Wales Climbs covers the best climbing from the whole of this huge and varied area. The book is modelled on the very popular West Country Climbs which set a new standard for selected climb guidebooks back in 2010. It contains all the routes from the 2010 publication North Wales Classics and many more routes and areas, with expanded descriptions and much bigger photo-topos. The book covers all the major mountain crags from Llanberis Pass, to Cloggy; and from Ogwen to the Carneddau. It also includes the Llanberis Slate quarries, Tremadog, the Moelwyns, the Gwynant Valley, Mid-Wales, Gogarth and the North Coast Limestone.
More info
More Guidebooks:
North Wales Limestone (2014)
North Wales Rock (2006)

Out of print:
Needs a few more access notes surely?! ie Due to the increased number of visitors who are likley to be exposed to falling rock, climbing during bank holidayy weekends and during the period July 15th to Septemebr 8th is restricted until after 6pm in the evenings. The Mumbo-Jumbo and Parisellas Cave areas are not affected by these restrictions. And: Due to suspect rock and the proximity of the public road, climbing is only permitted on routes which are between the green painted marker posts and have fixed lower-offs. Routes and areas of cliff between the red painted posts are banned due to instable rock and the risk of falling rock injuring passers-by. All routes finish at BMC installed and maintained lower-offs - and on no account should climbers continue beyond these to the top of the crag due to the increased risk of falling rock and to protect rare and protected plant species. from BMC RAD
Bulls Crack - 28/Apr/13
A good venue when (typically) raining in the hills. A good venue for the aspiring E1 leader, with several soft touches at the grade.
Owen W-G - 05/Sep/08
Login as Existing User to add your comments

Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Dumbell Flyer
2 Green Flash
-
5c 81
3 The Seagull Has Landed
-
7b 2
4 The Apostle
-
7a+ 11
5 Hom Rescue
-
6b * 65
6 The Graduate
-
6b * 77
7 Brewing Up with Phil Smith
-
7a+ * 12
8 Ring Peace
-
7b+ * 5
9 The Burning Sphincter
-
7a+ * 14
10 The Breck Road
-
7a+ * 8
11 Tales of No Power
-
7a+ * 20
12 Bring Back Fred Gwynne
-
7a ** 22
13 The Mask
-
7b+ * 13
14 Dumbell Flyer
-
E4 6a 4
15 Ace of Wands
-
7b * 4
16 The Damage Religion
-
7b+ * 4
17 Snakebite
-
7b  
18 Aerial Multigym
-
7a+ * 4
19 Tomorrow People
-
7c ** 25
20 Harry's Zontal Band
-
7b ** 3
21 Werry's Woof Woot Left-hand
-
7b * 41
22 Werry's Woof Woot
-
7a+ * 60
  Mumbo Jumbo
24 Lizzy Askins 7a+ 2
25 The Fly
-
7b+ * 6
26 Parting Shot
-
6c+ * 9
27 Brothers in Arms
-
6c ** 49
28 Mumbo Jumbo
-
6a ** 225
29 Tony's Route
-
6a+ * 54
30 Tears as Souvenirs
-
6b * 123
31 Tears as Souvenirs Direct Finish 6b 18
32 Fears for Tears
-
6c * 66
33 Fears For Beers
-
6c+ 2
34 Shadows and Lights
-
7b * 2
35 Pink and Black
-
6c * 17
36 Purple Tight Fright
-
6c 5
37 The Triad
-
6b+ * 16
38 Taipan
-
7b+ * 5
39 Split Infinity 6b+ 30
40 Simon Says 8a ** 6
41 Split Infinity Direct 6c+ 6
  Mayfair
43 Nostradamus E5 6a 2
44 King Krank E5 6b ** 48
45 Body Torque 7b+ * 27
46 Body Torque Direct 7c ** 24
47 Axle Attack 7a+ *** 393
48 True Blood 7a+ ** 3
49 Bloodsports 7b *** 190
50 The Bloods 7a+ ** 316
51 Cold Blood 8a ** 1
52 Bad Blood 7c+ *  
53 Blood Lust 7c * 5
54 Contusion 6c ** 505
55 Contusion Extension 6c+ *** 89
56 Senile Penile Extension 7b+ * 25
57 Mayfair 7a+ ** 215
58 Julio Juvenito 7a ** 117
59 Julio Juvento Extension 7a+ ** 10
60 Carrigan's Groove E5 6b * 8
61 Harry the Clamp 7a+ * 27
62 Master Plan 8a+ *** 8
63 The Disillusioned Screw Machine E6 6b *** 29
64 Masterclass 7c+ *** 6
65 Thunder Road E6 6b ** 1
66 Oyster 8a *** 3
67 The Bearded Clam 7a+ *** 78
68 Reader's Wives 7a+ *** 7
69 Needle in the Groove 7c ** 9
70 Rupture E5 6c ** 3
71 Rapture E4 6b ** 21
72 Plagued by Fools 7b+ ** 16
73 Anchovy Madonna E3 5c *** 139
74 Plagued by Anchovies
-
6c+ * 6
75 Wall of Blutes 6b+ * 15
76 Conner's Folly
-
E1 5b ** 115
77 Just for Kicks
-
7a * 3
78 The Witches of Pen Trwyn 7c+ * 1
79 Burslem Boys
-
6c+ * 14
  Hanging Rock
81 The Wall Of Goutes 6b 23
82 Gripper Clipper 7a * 1
83 Slouching Towards Bethlehem 7b ** 7
84 De Torquemada 7b+ ** 3
85 The Picnic 7b+ **  
86 Jerusalem is Lost 7a ** 17
87 Perthy Thrower 6a 32
  The Cutaway
89 Half Man, Half Beard
-
7a * 29
90 The Amazing Bearded Lady 7b+ ** 16
91 Rock Lobster
-
8a ** 3
92 Rodney God and the Oral Twins 8b ** 6
93 John Paul and the Vatican 7
-
7c ** 7
94 Who Framed Roger Rabbi
-
7b+ *  
  Testament to Pure Gold
96 Testament 6c+ ** 135
97 Talisman 7a * 30
98 Touchstone 6c+ ** 26
99 Confuse the Aardvark 7b 1
100 Jungle Jive E2 5c 4
101 Bored Games 7a+ * 8
102 Aardvark Start V6 ** 7
103 Norman Direct V7 ** 4
104 Norman's Wisdom Tooth 6c+ * 1
105 Norman's Wisdom 6c+ ** 79
106 Hot Sexy Phone Talk 6c+ * 28
107 Norman's Wisdom Traverse V6 5
108 The Lyon King 7a+ * 15
109 Lipstick
-
E5 F6c * 1
110 It E2 5b * 180
111 Gold Digger
-
E2 5c 24
112 Precious Metal E1 5b ** 373
113 Midas Touch
-
E4 6a * 5
114 Magical Ring 7a+ ** 28
115 Billy The Fish 7c+ 1
116 Gold 'n' Delicious 7a+ ** 23
117 Pot of Gold 6c+ * 7
118 Pure Gold 6c+ ** 43
119 Capturing the Coelacanth 7b ** 19
120 Love Over Gold E3 6a * 29
121 Afterthought HVS 5a * 3
122 Goldeneye 7b+  
123 Zig HVS 5a 3
124 Snout *
-
f7C * 1
  Plumbline
126 Wings of Perception 7b+ ** 6
127 Gold Rush E6 6b *** 13
128 Plumbline E3 5c *** 271
129 Scary Canary E5 6a *** 66
130 Really scary canary E5 6a ** 1
131 Flakeaway E5 6b ** 23
132 Zag HVS 5a 3
133 The Stairs of Cirith Ungol HS 4a 2
134 Plumbline Traverse V5 ** 22
  Quicksilver
136 Hot Club
-
E4 6a * 9
137 Vagal Inhibition E2 5c ** 115
138 Sussudio E3 6a * 23
139 Prospectors E4 6a * 19
140 The 24 Karat Start 7a+ * 4
141 Price of Gold E4 6b ** 23
142 Price of Gold Direct E5 6b * 6
143 Quicksilver 7a *** 142
144 The Electric Cool-aid Acid Test 7b+ *** 13
145 The Alchemist's Dream
-
E4 6a 11
  Firefly
147 Private Investigations E5 6b * 9
148 Too Low for Zero E3 6
149 Klondike E3 6a ** 73
150 Pocket City E3 6a ** 50
151 Sourdough E4 6a * 18
152 Sourdough Direct E5 6b * 1
153 Iron in My Soul
-
6c+ * 8
154 Solid Gold E3 6a ** 101
155 Captain Fingers 7a+ ** 33
156 Firefly E3 5c *** 151
157 Mr. Chips 7a ** 90
158 You've had Your Chips 7b ** 20
159 After the Gold Rush 6c * 19
160 The Bar Spangled Banner
-
6c * 3
161 Silver Surfer 6c+ * 49
162 Cage full of Budgies
-
7a 9
  Excursion
164 No Bark, No Drill 7c **  
165 Barking Up the Wrong Tree 7b ** 15
166 No Arc, No Bark 7a+ ** 54
167 Excursion Direct 6c+ ** 84
168 Call It Black E4 6a * 12
169 Excursion E2 5b *** 273
170 The Arc of Eternity E4 6a ** 20
171 Swift Gundercut E5 6a * 1
172 The Visionary E3 6a ** 48
173 Clear White Light E3 6a ** 54
174 Clear White Light Direct E4 6a * 6
175 Beaverbrook E5 6a * 6
176 Pershing II
-
E2 5b 5
177 Cruise Missile
-
E2 5c 4
  Deep Fix
179 Ivor Bigum 7b * 4
180 Utter from the Gutter 7c * 4
181 The Cold War 7a * 29
182 Belay Bunny Bounces Back 6a ** 158
183 Insidious Practices E2 5c * 30
184 Two-ton Caiman 7b * 15
185 Welcome to the Power Bulge 7b+ * 13
186 The Deep Fix E1 5b * 24
187 Vic 20 HVS 5b * 59
188 The Really Exciting Climb VS 5a ** 102
189 The Turquoise Turtle E3 6a * 5
190 Space Invaders E2 5b * 26
191 Astro Blaster
-
E4 6a 2
192 Paradise 6c * 13
193 The Bounty Hunters E3 5c * 6
  Lookout Area
195 Stake Out
-
7a * 10
196 Eliminator
-
7a+ * 15
197 Methylated Laughter
-
7a+ * 10
198 Adequate Compensation 6b+ * 22
199 Big is Best
-
6a+ * 31
200 Go for Gold
-
E1 5b * 17
201 New Gold Dream
-
E1 5b * 28
202 Fool's Gold
-
6c 23
203 Romancing the Stone
-
E4 6b * 1
204 Golden Confusion
-
HVS 5a 7
205 Passionate Friend
-
E1 5b * 54
206 Bruno His Wall
-
HVS 5a * 44
207 Uaeba
-
E5 6b 3
208 Sheik yer Money
-
6c ** 61
209 George Formby
-
7a+ * 18
210 Masada
-
E5 6b * 6
211 Silage Time
-
7a * 37
212 The Blood Red Game
-
HVS 4c 4
213 Meanstreak
-
E5 6b 5
214 Hom's Punk
-
E5 6a ** 6
215 The Jehad E5 6b ** 9
  Chain Gang
217 Pil
-
E1 5b 42
218 Primrose Walk E2 5c ** 18
219 Yellow Belly
-
E3 5c 18
220 Beachcomber
-
HVS 5b 13
221 Pen Trwyn Pilots
-
E4 6b * 2
222 Corinthian Groove 8b * 2
223 Foulish, Goulish 7b+ *** 35
224 Mr. Olympia E5 6b *** 32
225 Olympus Trip E6 6b ** 4
226 Iron Man 7b ** 5
227 Chain Gang E5 6b *** 52
228 More Genius E5 6b ** 19
229 Precious Time E4 6a * 53
230 Coiled Spine
-
E1 5b 16
231 The Stirrer
-
E2 5c 22
232 Kanly E2 5b ** 77
233 Bauxed HVS 5a ** 128
234 Reaving Slaying Conan VS 4c 2
235 Once in a Blue Moon
-
6b+ 6
  Yellow Wall
237 Badger Badger Badger 8a+ ** 3
238 Dive, Dive, Dive 7b ** 53
239 Crunchy Toad IX 7a+ * 61
240 White Seam
-
E3 5c 2
241 Melkor E3 5c * 70
242 Pen Trwyn Patrol E4 6a ** 48
243 Cornhollio 7b * 6
244 The Nut Cluster
-
E4 6a 5
245 The Pirates of Pen Trwyn 6c+ *** 158
246 String of Pearls 6b+ *** 398
247 Pale Shelter E1 5b ** 220
248 Second Sense
-
E4 6a 2
249 Lemon Entry
-
6c 6
250 The continuing adventures of Charlton Chestwig * E4 6a 2
  Black Walls
252 Spine Chill
-
6c+ * 55
253 Blackwall Tunnel
-
7a+ * 7
254 Menincursion
-
6c+ ** 49
255 The Peppermint Pig
-
E3 6a * 16
256 Willowbrooks Direct
-
7a+ * 11
257 The Lull
-
7b 10
258 Willowbrooks
-
7a * 8
259 Storm Warning
-
7a * 24
260 Drip, Drip, Drip Direct
-
7a * 12
261 Drip, Drip, Drip
-
6c ** 26
262 Wet Dreams
-
7a * 18
263 Captain Percival
-
6a+ * 127
264 Clutching at Squaws
-
6b+ * 69
265 Hot Chick 6b+ 7
266 Washington Waltz
-
E5 6b  
267 Salty Dog
-
E1 5b 4
268 Pure Mania
-
E3 5c 2
269 Lets lynch the landlord
-
E2 5c 9
270 Winterreise
-
6b 24
271 Secondhand Daylight
-
6b+ ** 6
272 Night-Time Rendezvous
-
6c+ 12
273 Nightwatch 6c * 6
274 Dave's Rent-a-Drill Co
-
E2 5b * 3
  Homo Sapien
276 2211
-
7a+ * 8
277 Ten Forty
-
7a 7
278 Karaoke Club
-
7a+ ** 4
279 Thin Red Line 7a+ ** 6
280 Blue Steel
-
7c **  
281 Homo Sexual 7b+  
282 Candle in the Wind 7a+ * 3
283 The Eleventh Hour
-
6c 1
284 Sonic Sinbad 7a * 18
285 The Thin Turquoise Line 6c+ * 29
286 Homo Erectus 7b ** 15
287 Homo Sapien 7a+ *** 113
288 White Hopes 7b *** 47
289 Snakes and Ladders 7c+ * 1
290 Sèverine 7b+ * 2
291 After the Fact
-
E4 6b 1
292 Raw
-
7a+ ** 2
293 The Gold Coast
-
E3 5c * 29
294 Watch Your Poison
-
7b *  
295 Loose Lingo
-
E4 6a 1
  End of the Road
297 Absolute Beginners
-
E2 5b 3
298 Frontiers of Reality
-
6a+ 16
299 Michelle's Pillar
-
E1 5b 7
300 Small Bore
-
6b+ * 14
301 Counting Crows
-
7c  
302 The Happening Boys
-
E4 6a 1
303 Sucking the Short Straw
-
E3 6a 3
304 More Quizzical then Physical
-
7b+ ** 2
305 Physical Abuse
-
7b+ * 2
306 Eco-Mouse
-
7b * 6
307 Treat Me Like a Person
-
6a+ * 37
308 Years of Abuse
-
6b+ 17
309 Reading Henry by the Road
-
6a+ 37
  Location Unknown
311 The Silmarillion
-
E3 6a 1
312 Squawk
-
6b 1
313 Planned Obsolescence 5c 8
314 Fall Back E5 6b * 2
315 Ward 10 E6 6b ** 2
316 Serious Trad 7a+ 1
317 Kanly Direct Start * E3 5c ** 1
318 Get on the Beam *
-
E2 5c 1
319 Big Licks * E4 6a * 4
320 Pirates of Pen Trwyn Patrol (Link) * E2 5b ** 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderators Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteers Luke Owens and Spengler