Climbs 310
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 50m a.s.l
Faces E

View Stats

The Great Orme Sunset © Alejandro

Crag features

Pen Trwyn has established itself as the most popular sport climbing area in Wales. This is despite the strict access requirements which prevent climbing during some of the busiest times. The main reason for Pen Trwyn's popularity is that, with the exception of Portland, there is nowhere else in the country that climbers can enjoy so many high quality, well-bolted sport routes. However it isn't all sport routes since in amongst the bolts is a number of fine traditional challenges which add greatly to the appeal of the cliffs.
The situation above the marine drive makes for easy access but also limits climbing away from the popular holiday weekends and the school summer holidays.

Approach notes

Get yourself to Llandudno and you can't miss the fine curving line of cliffs of Pen Trwyn on the headland to the west. To get onto the Marine Drive, turn left along the sea front and continue around to a toll gate. (The current toll here is £3.50 for cars. To avoid the toll arrive early or late. A season ticket can be bought you intend to come here more than three times a year). The cliffs start a little further along by the caves of the Dumbell Flyer Area. From here they are fairly continuous for the next mile and you can usually park roughly underneath your chosen sector, however take great care not to block the road.

Restricted Access

The 2nd pitches of Touchstone and Confuse the Aardvark are both banned for public safety reasons.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Birds (Kestrels)  occasionally nest in the hole on the route "Norman's Wisdom" and  it would be wise to avoid that route and the routes immediately either side of it from 1st March to 31st July.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

North Wales Climbs

North Wales Climbs covers the best climbing from the whole of this huge and varied area. The book is modelled on the very popular West Country Climbs which set a new standard for selected climb guidebooks back in 2010. It contains all the routes from the 2010 publication North Wales Classics and many more routes and areas, with expanded descriptions and much bigger photo-topos. The book covers all the major mountain crags from Llanberis Pass, to Cloggy; and from Ogwen to the Carneddau. It also includes the Llanberis Slate quarries, Tremadog, the Moelwyns, the Gwynant Valley, Mid-Wales, Gogarth and the North Coast Limestone.
More info
More Guidebooks:
North Wales Limestone (2014)
North Wales Rock (2006)

Out of print:
Needs a few more access notes surely?! ie Due to the increased number of visitors who are likley to be exposed to falling rock, climbing during bank holidayy weekends and during the period July 15th to Septemebr 8th is restricted until after 6pm in the evenings. The Mumbo-Jumbo and Parisellas Cave areas are not affected by these restrictions. And: Due to suspect rock and the proximity of the public road, climbing is only permitted on routes which are between the green painted marker posts and have fixed lower-offs. Routes and areas of cliff between the red painted posts are banned due to instable rock and the risk of falling rock injuring passers-by. All routes finish at BMC installed and maintained lower-offs - and on no account should climbers continue beyond these to the top of the crag due to the increased risk of falling rock and to protect rare and protected plant species. from BMC RAD
Bulls Crack - 28/Apr/13
A good venue when (typically) raining in the hills. A good venue for the aspiring E1 leader, with several soft touches at the grade.
Owen W-G - 05/Sep/08
Login as Existing User to add your comments

Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Dumbell Flyer
2 Green Flash
-
5c 92
3 The Seagull Has Landed
-
7b 4
4 The Apostle
-
7a+ 15
5 Hom Rescue
-
6b * 71
6 The Graduate
-
6b * 84
7 Brewing Up with Phil Smith
-
7a+ * 15
8 Ring Peace
-
7b+ * 7
9 The Burning Sphincter
-
7a+ * 14
10 The Breck Road
-
7a+ * 11
11 Tales of No Power
-
7a+ * 22
12 Bring Back Fred Gwynne
-
7a ** 22
13 The Mask
-
7b+ * 15
14 Dumbell Flyer
-
E4 6a 6
15 Ace of Wands
-
7b * 6
16 The Damage Religion
-
7b+ * 4
17 Snakebite
-
7b  
18 Aerial Multigym
-
7a+ * 4
19 Tomorrow People
-
7c ** 29
20 Harry's Zontal Band
-
7b ** 4
21 Werry's Woof Woot Left-hand
-
7b * 45
22 Werry's Woof Woot
-
7a+ * 61
23 Social Loafer * 7a+  
24 A Touch Too Much * 7b+  
  Mumbo Jumbo
26 Lizzy Askins 7a+ 2
27 The Fly
-
7b+ * 9
28 Parting Shot
-
6c+ * 11
29 Brothers in Arms
-
6c ** 53
30 Mumbo Jumbo
-
6a ** 258
31 Tony's Route
-
6a+ * 59
32 Tears as Souvenirs
-
6b * 129
33 Tears as Souvenirs Direct Finish 6b 25
34 Fears for Tears
-
6c * 72
35 Fears For Beers
-
6c+ 4
36 Shadows and Lights
-
7b * 2
37 Pink and Black
-
6c * 19
38 Purple Tight Fright
-
6c 9
39 The Triad
-
6b+ * 19
40 Taipan
-
7b+ * 6
41 Split Infinity 6b+ 35
42 Simon Says 8a ** 7
43 Split Infinity Direct 6c+ 7
  Mayfair
45 Nostradamus E5 6a 2
46 King Krank E5 6b ** 56
47 Body Torque 7b+ * 32
48 Body Torque Direct 7c ** 28
49 Axle Attack 7a+ *** 424
50 True Blood 7a+ ** 6
51 Bloodsports 7b *** 204
52 The Bloods 7a+ ** 341
53 Cold Blood 8a ** 2
54 Bad Blood 7c+ * 3
55 Blood Lust 7c * 8
56 Contusion 6c ** 555
57 Contusion Extension 6c+ *** 96
58 Senile Penile Extension 7b+ * 33
59 Mayfair 7a+ ** 236
60 Julio Juvenito 7a ** 130
61 Julio Juvento Extension 7a+ ** 12
62 Carrigan's Groove E5 6b * 10
63 Harry the Clamp 7a+ * 34
64 Master Plan 8a+ *** 5
65 The Disillusioned Screw Machine E6 6b *** 22
66 Masterclass 7c+ *** 7
67 Thunder Road E6 6b ** 1
68 Oyster 8a *** 5
69 The Bearded Clam 7a+ *** 79
70 Reader's Wives 7a+ *** 11
71 Needle in the Groove 7c ** 9
72 Rupture E5 6c ** 4
73 Rapture E4 6b ** 21
74 Plagued by Fools 7b+ ** 19
75 Anchovy Madonna E3 5c *** 160
76 Plagued by Anchovies
-
6c+ * 8
77 Wall of Blutes 6b+ * 22
78 Conner's Folly
-
E1 5b ** 129
79 Just for Kicks
-
7a * 5
80 The Witches of Pen Trwyn 7c+ * 1
81 Burslem Boys
-
6c+ * 16
  Hanging Rock
83 The Wall Of Goutes 6b 32
84 Gripper Clipper 7a * 1
85 Slouching Towards Bethlehem 7b ** 9
86 De Torquemada 7b+ ** 4
87 The Picnic 7b+ ** 1
88 Jerusalem is Lost 7a ** 24
89 Perthy Thrower 6a 50
  The Cutaway
91 Half Man, Half Beard
-
7a * 32
92 The Amazing Bearded Lady 7b+ ** 19
93 Rock Lobster
-
8a ** 3
94 Rodney God and the Oral Twins 8b ** 9
95 John Paul and the Vatican 7
-
7c ** 10
96 Who Framed Roger Rabbi
-
7b+ * 2
  Testament to Pure Gold
98 Testament 6c+ ** 158
99 Testicle 7a  
100 Talisman 7a * 33
101 Touchstone 6c+ ** 28
102 Confuse the Aardvark 7b 3
103 Jungle Jive E2 5c 4
104 Bored Games 7a+ * 10
105 Clutch * f7C+ *  
106 Snout *
-
f7C * 6
107 Aardvark Start V6 ** 16
108 Norman Direct V7 ** 11
109 Norman's Wisdom Tooth 6c+ * 4
110 Norman's Wisdom 6c+ ** 91
Climb name Grade
111 Hot Sexy Phone Talk 6c+ * 32
112 Norman's Wisdom Traverse V6 9
113 The Lyon King 7a+ * 15
114 Lipstick
-
E5 F6c * 1
115 It E2 5b * 214
116 Gold Digger
-
E2 5c 30
117 Precious Metal E1 5b ** 414
118 Midas Touch
-
E4 6a * 8
119 Magical Ring 7a+ ** 27
120 Billy The Fish 7c+ 1
121 Gold 'n' Delicious 7a+ ** 26
122 Pot of Gold 6c+ * 11
123 Pure Gold 6c+ ** 52
124 Capturing the Coelacanth 7b ** 19
125 Love Over Gold E3 6a * 38
126 Afterthought HVS 5a * 4
127 Goldeneye 7b+  
128 Zig HVS 5a 4
129 Easy, Norman! * f5 2
130 Hebenwi * f7B+ * 1
  Plumbline
132 Wings of Perception 7b+ ** 6
133 Gold Rush E6 6b *** 25
134 Plumbline E3 5c *** 302
135 Scary Canary E5 6a *** 74
136 Really scary canary E5 6a ** 1
137 Flakeaway E5 6b ** 26
138 Zag HVS 5a 4
139 The Stairs of Cirith Ungol HS 4a 2
140 Plumbline Traverse V5 ** 26
  Quicksilver
142 Hot Club
-
E4 6a * 12
143 Vagal Inhibition E2 5c ** 132
144 Sussudio E3 6a * 42
145 Prospectors E4 6a * 22
146 The 24 Karat Start 7a+ * 3
147 Price of Gold E4 6b ** 25
148 Price of Gold Direct E5 6b * 5
149 Quicksilver 7a *** 168
150 The Electric Cool-aid Acid Test 7b+ *** 16
151 The Alchemist's Dream
-
E4 6a 11
  Firefly
153 Private Investigations E5 6b * 9
154 Too Low for Zero E3 6
155 Klondike E3 6a ** 79
156 Pocket City E3 6a ** 61
157 Sourdough E4 6a * 21
158 Sourdough Direct E5 6b * 1
159 Iron in My Soul
-
6c+ * 8
160 Solid Gold E3 6a ** 116
161 Captain Fingers 7a+ ** 43
162 Firefly E3 5c *** 174
163 Mr. Chips 7a ** 108
164 You've had Your Chips 7b ** 25
165 After the Gold Rush 6c * 31
166 The Bar Spangled Banner
-
6c * 3
167 Silver Surfer 6c+ * 64
168 Cage full of Budgies
-
7a 9
  Excursion
170 No Bark, No Drill 7c ** 4
171 Barking Up the Wrong Tree 7b ** 18
172 No Arc, No Bark 7a+ ** 59
173 Excursion Direct 6c+ ** 97
174 Call It Black E4 6a * 15
175 Excursion E2 5b *** 299
176 The Arc of Eternity E4 6a ** 25
177 Swift Gundercut E5 6a * 2
178 The Visionary E3 6a ** 55
179 Clear White Light E3 6a ** 65
180 Clear White Light Direct E4 6a * 7
181 Beaverbrook E5 6a * 17
182 Pershing II
-
E2 5b 5
183 Cruise Missile
-
E2 5c 4
  Deep Fix
185 Ivor Bigum 7b * 4
186 Utter from the Gutter 7c * 4
187 The Cold War 7a * 33
188 Belay Bunny Bounces Back 6a ** 186
189 Insidious Practices E2 5c * 34
190 Two-ton Caiman 7b * 16
191 Welcome to the Power Bulge 7b+ * 15
192 The Deep Fix E1 5b * 29
193 Vic 20 HVS 5b * 65
194 The Really Exciting Climb VS 5a ** 114
195 The Turquoise Turtle E3 6a * 7
196 Space Invaders E2 5b * 33
197 Astro Blaster
-
E4 6a 4
198 Paradise 6c * 16
199 The Bounty Hunters E3 5c * 8
  Lookout Area
201 Stake Out
-
7a * 12
202 Eliminator
-
7a+ * 19
203 Methylated Laughter
-
7a+ * 11
204 Adequate Compensation 6b+ * 33
205 Big is Best
-
6a+ * 41
206 Go for Gold
-
E1 5b * 21
207 New Gold Dream
-
E1 5b * 30
208 Fool's Gold
-
6c 26
209 Romancing the Stone
-
E4 6b * 3
210 Golden Confusion
-
HVS 5a 11
211 Passionate Friend
-
E1 5b * 64
212 Bruno His Wall
-
HVS 5a * 48
213 Uaeba
-
E5 6b 3
214 Sheik yer Money
-
6c ** 66
215 George Formby
-
7a+ * 20
216 Masada
-
E5 6b * 6
217 Silage Time
-
7a * 47
218 The Blood Red Game
-
HVS 4c 4
219 Meanstreak
-
E5 6b 6
220 Hom's Punk
-
E5 6a ** 8
Climb name Grade
221 The Jehad E5 6b ** 9
  Chain Gang
223 Pil
-
E1 5b 49
224 Primrose Walk E2 5c ** 19
225 Yellow Belly
-
E3 5c 19
226 Beachcomber
-
HVS 5b 14
227 Pen Trwyn Pilots
-
E4 6b * 3
228 Corinthian Groove 8b * 3
229 Foulish, Goulish 7b+ *** 44
230 Mr. Olympia E5 6b *** 31
231 Olympus Trip E6 6b ** 4
232 Iron Man 7b ** 5
233 Chain Gang E5 6b *** 63
234 More Genius E5 6b ** 20
235 Precious Time E4 6a * 57
236 Coiled Spine
-
E1 5b 16
237 The Stirrer
-
E2 5c 24
238 Kanly E2 5b ** 80
239 Bauxed HVS 5a ** 136
240 Reaving Slaying Conan VS 4c 4
241 Once in a Blue Moon
-
6b+ 6
  Yellow Wall
243 Badger Badger Badger 8a+ ** 3
244 Dive, Dive, Dive 7b ** 63
245 Crunchy Toad IX 7a+ * 74
246 White Seam
-
E3 5c 4
247 Melkor E3 5c * 78
248 Pen Trwyn Patrol E4 6a ** 60
249 Cornhollio 7b * 18
250 The Nut Cluster
-
E4 6a 7
251 The Pirates of Pen Trwyn 6c+ *** 179
252 String of Pearls 6b+ *** 450
253 Pale Shelter E1 5b ** 246
254 Second Sense
-
E4 6a 4
255 Lemon Entry
-
6c 8
256 The continuing adventures of Charlton Chestwig E4 6a 4
  Black Walls
258 Spine Chill
-
6c+ * 66
259 Blackwall Tunnel
-
7a+ * 7
260 Menincursion
-
6c+ ** 56
261 The Peppermint Pig
-
E3 6a * 19
262 Willowbrooks Direct
-
7a+ * 11
263 The Lull
-
7b 14
264 Willowbrooks
-
7a * 10
265 Storm Warning
-
7a * 28
266 Drip, Drip, Drip Direct
-
7a * 12
267 Drip, Drip, Drip
-
6c ** 29
268 Wet Dreams
-
7a * 18
269 Captain Percival
-
6a+ * 146
270 Clutching at Squaws
-
6b+ * 77
271 Hot Chick 6b+ 13
272 Washington Waltz
-
E5 6b  
273 Salty Dog
-
E1 5b 4
274 Pure Mania
-
E3 5c 2
275 Lets lynch the landlord
-
E2 5c 9
276 Winterreise
-
6b 27
277 Secondhand Daylight
-
6b+ ** 11
278 Night-Time Rendezvous
-
6c+ 16
279 Nightwatch 6c * 11
280 Dave's Rent-a-Drill Co
-
E2 5b * 4
  Homo Sapien
282 Abducted by Aliens 6c+  
283 2211
-
7a+ * 8
284 Ten Forty
-
7a 7
285 Karaoke Club
-
7a+ ** 5
286 Thin Red Line 7a+ ** 8
287 Blue Steel 7c **  
288 Homo Sexual 7b+  
289 Candle in the Wind 7a+ * 5
290 The Eleventh Hour
-
6c 1
291 Sonic Sinbad 7a * 22
292 The Thin Turquoise Line 6c+ * 35
293 Homo Erectus 7b ** 20
294 Homo Sapien 7a+ *** 119
295 White Hopes 7b *** 53
296 Snakes and Ladders 7c+ * 1
297 Sèverine 7b+ * 2
298 After the Fact
-
E4 6b 1
299 Raw
-
7a+ ** 2
300 The Gold Coast
-
E3 5c * 33
301 Watch Your Poison
-
7b *  
302 Loose Lingo
-
E4 6a 1
  End of the Road
304 Absolute Beginners
-
E2 5b 5
305 Frontiers of Reality
-
6a+ 17
306 Michelle's Pillar
-
E1 5b 9
307 Small Bore
-
6b+ * 17
308 Counting Crows
-
7c  
309 The Happening Boys
-
E4 6a 3
310 Sucking the Short Straw
-
E3 6a 3
311 More Quizzical then Physical
-
7b+ ** 5
312 Physical Abuse
-
7b+ * 2
313 Eco-Mouse
-
7b * 7
314 Treat Me Like a Person
-
6a+ * 42
315 Years of Abuse
-
6b+ 19
316 Reading Henry by the Road
-
6a+ 39
  Location Unknown
318 The Silmarillion
-
E3 6a 1
319 Squawk
-
6b 1
320 Planned Obsolescence 5c 8
321 Fall Back E5 6b * 2
322 Ward 10 E6 6b ** 2
323 Serious Trad 7a+ 2
324 Kanly Direct Start E3 5c ** 1
325 Get on the Beam
-
E2 5c 2
326 Big Licks E4 6a * 8
327 Pirates of Pen Trwyn Patrol (Link) E2 5b ** 1
328 Zawn Creature * 6c+ ** 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderators Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteers Luke Owens and Spengler