Climbs 301
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 50m a.s.l
Faces E

The Great Orme Sunset © Alejandro

Crag features

Pen Trwyn has established itself as the most popular sport climbing area in Wales. This is despite the strict access requirements which prevent climbing during some of the busiest times. The main reason for Pen Trwyn's popularity is that, with the exception of Portland, there is nowhere else in the country that climbers can enjoy so many high quality, well-bolted sport routes. However it isn't all sport routes since in amongst the bolts is a number of fine traditional challenges which add greatly to the appeal of the cliffs.
The situation above the marine drive makes for easy access but also limits climbing away from the popular holiday weekends and the school summer holidays.

Approach notes

Get yourself to Llandudno and you canât miss the fine curving line of cliffs of Pen Trwyn on the headland to the west. To get onto the Marine Drive, turn left along the sea front and continue around to a toll gate. (The current toll here is £3 for cars. To avoid the toll arrive early or late. A season ticket can be bought you intend to come here more than three times a year). The cliffs start a little further along by the caves of the Dumbell Flyer Area. From here they are fairly continuous for the next mile and you can usually park roughly underneath your chosen sector, however take great care not to block the road.

Restricted Access

The 2nd pitches of Touchstone and Confuse the Aardvark are both banned for public safety reasons.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Birds (Kestrels)  occasionally nest in the hole on the route "Norman's Wisdom" and  it would be wise to avoid that route and the routes immediately either side of it from 1st March to 31st July.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

North Wales Climbs

North Wales Climbs covers the best climbing from the whole of this huge and varied area. The book is modelled on the very popular West Country Climbs which set a new standard for selected climb guidebooks back in 2010. It contains all the routes from the 2010 publication North Wales Classics and many more routes and areas, with expanded descriptions and much bigger photo-topos. The book covers all the major mountain crags from Llanberis Pass, to Cloggy; and from Ogwen to the Carneddau. It also includes the Llanberis Slate quarries, Tremadog, the Moelwyns, the Gwynant Valley, Mid-Wales, Gogarth and the North Coast Limestone.
More info
More Guidebooks:
North Wales Limestone (2014)
North Wales Rock (2006)

Out of print:
Needs a few more access notes surely?! ie Due to the increased number of visitors who are likley to be exposed to falling rock, climbing during bank holidayy weekends and during the period July 15th to Septemebr 8th is restricted until after 6pm in the evenings. The Mumbo-Jumbo and Parisellas Cave areas are not affected by these restrictions. And: Due to suspect rock and the proximity of the public road, climbing is only permitted on routes which are between the green painted marker posts and have fixed lower-offs. Routes and areas of cliff between the red painted posts are banned due to instable rock and the risk of falling rock injuring passers-by. All routes finish at BMC installed and maintained lower-offs - and on no account should climbers continue beyond these to the top of the crag due to the increased risk of falling rock and to protect rare and protected plant species. from BMC RAD
Bulls Crack - 28/Apr/13
A good venue when (typically) raining in the hills. A good venue for the aspiring E1 leader, with several soft touches at the grade.
Owen W-G - 05/Sep/08
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Dumbell Flyer
2 Green Flash
-
5c 79
3 The Seagull Has Landed
-
7b 2
4 The Apostle
-
7a+ 11
5 Hom Rescue
-
6b * 64
6 The Graduate
-
6b * 75
7 Brewing Up with Phil Smith
-
7a+ * 12
8 Ring Peace
-
7b+ * 5
9 The Burning Sphincter
-
7a+ * 11
10 The Breck Road
-
7a+ * 9
11 Tales of No Power
-
7a+ * 18
12 Bring Back Fred Gwynne
-
7a ** 22
13 The Mask
-
7b+ * 13
14 Dumbell Flyer
-
E4 6a 4
15 Ace of Wands
-
7b * 4
16 The Damage Religion
-
7b+ * 4
17 Snakebite
-
7b  
18 Aerial Multigym
-
7a+ * 4
19 Tomorrow People
-
7c ** 25
20 Harry's Zontal Band
-
7b ** 3
21 Werry's Woof Woot Left-hand
-
7b * 40
22 Werry's Woof Woot
-
7a+ * 59
  Mumbo Jumbo
24 Lizzy Askins 7a+ 2
25 The Fly
-
7b+ * 6
26 Parting Shot
-
6c+ * 9
27 Brothers in Arms
-
6c ** 49
28 Mumbo Jumbo
-
6a ** 220
29 Tony's Route
-
6a+ * 54
30 Tears as Souvenirs
-
6b * 115
31 Tears as Souvenirs Direct Finish 6b 15
32 Fears for Tears
-
6c * 65
33 Fears For Beers
-
6c+ 2
34 Shadows and Lights
-
7b * 2
35 Pink and Black
-
6c * 17
36 Purple Tight Fright
-
6c 5
37 The Triad
-
6b+ * 16
38 Taipan
-
7b+ * 5
39 Split Infinity 6b+ 29
40 Simon Says 8a ** 6
41 Split Infinity Direct 6c+ 6
  Mayfair
43 Nostradamus E5 6a 2
44 King Krank E5 6b ** 48
45 Body Torque 7b+ * 27
46 Body Torque Direct 7c ** 24
47 Axle Attack 7a+ *** 388
48 True Blood 7a+ ** 3
49 Bloodsports 7b *** 189
50 The Bloods 7a+ ** 312
51 Cold Blood 8a ** 1
52 Bad Blood 7c+ *  
53 Blood Lust 7c * 5
54 Contusion 6c ** 496
55 Contusion Extension 6c+ *** 87
56 Senile Penile Extension 7b+ * 23
57 Mayfair 7a+ ** 212
58 Julio Juvenito 7a ** 114
59 Julio Juvento Extension 7a+ ** 9
60 Carrigan's Groove E5 6b * 8
61 Harry the Clamp 7a+ * 27
62 Master Plan 8a+ *** 3
63 The Disillusioned Screw Machine E6 6b *** 21
64 Masterclass 7c+ *** 6
65 Thunder Road E6 6b ** 1
66 Oyster 8a *** 3
67 The Bearded Clam 7a+ *** 76
68 Reader's Wives 7a+ *** 7
69 Needle in the Groove 7c ** 9
70 Rupture E5 6c ** 3
71 Rapture E4 6b ** 21
72 Plagued by Fools 7b+ ** 16
73 Anchovy Madonna E3 5c *** 136
74 Plagued by Anchovies
-
6c+ * 6
75 Wall of Blutes
-
E3 6a * 15
76 Conner's Folly
-
E1 5b ** 113
77 Just for Kicks
-
7a * 3
78 The Witches of Pen Trwyn 7c+ * 1
79 Burslem Boys
-
6c+ * 14
  Hanging Rock
81 The Wall Of Goutes 6b 22
82 Gripper Clipper 7a * 1
83 Slouching Towards Bethlehem 7b ** 7
84 De Torquemada 7b+ ** 3
85 The Picnic 7b+ **  
86 Jerusalem is Lost 7a ** 17
87 Perthy Thrower 6a 30
  The Cutaway
89 Half Man, Half Beard
-
7a * 29
90 The Amazing Bearded Lady 7b+ ** 16
91 Rock Lobster
-
8a ** 3
92 Rodney God and the Oral Twins 8b ** 6
93 John Paul and the Vatican 7
-
7c ** 7
94 Who Framed Roger Rabbi
-
7b+ *  
  Testament to Pure Gold
96 Testament 6c+ ** 131
97 Talisman 7a * 29
98 Touchstone 6c+ ** 25
99 Confuse the Aardvark 7b 1
100 Jungle Jive E2 5c 3
101 Bored Games 7a+ * 8
102 Aardvark Start V6 ** 7
103 Norman Direct V7 ** 4
104 Norman's Wisdom Tooth 6c+ * 1
105 Norman's Wisdom 6c+ ** 76
106 Hot Sexy Phone Talk 6c+ * 28
107 Norman's Wisdom Traverse V6 5
108 The Lyon King 7a+ * 15
109 Lipstick
-
E5 F6c * 1
110 It E2 5b * 179
111 Gold Digger
-
E2 5c 24
112 Precious Metal E1 5b ** 371
113 Midas Touch
-
E4 6a * 5
114 Magical Ring 7a+ ** 28
115 Billy The Fish 7c+ 1
116 Gold 'n' Delicious 7a+ ** 23
117 Pot of Gold 6c+ * 6
118 Pure Gold 6c+ ** 43
119 Capturing the Coelacanth 7b ** 16
120 Love Over Gold E3 6a * 28
121 Afterthought HVS 5a * 3
122 Goldeneye 7b+  
123 Zig HVS 5a 3
  Plumbline
125 Wings of Perception 7b+ ** 6
126 Gold Rush E6 6b *** 13
127 Plumbline E3 5c *** 261
128 Scary Canary E5 6a *** 63
129 Really scary canary E5 6a ** 1
130 Flakeaway E5 6b ** 22
131 Zag HVS 5a 2
132 The Stairs of Cirith Ungol HS 4a 2
133 Plumbline Traverse V5 ** 22
  Quicksilver
135 Hot Club
-
E4 6a * 8
136 Vagal Inhibition E2 5c ** 111
137 Sussudio E3 6a * 22
138 Prospectors E4 6a * 16
139 The 24 Karat Start 7a+ * 3
140 Price of Gold E4 6b ** 22
141 Price of Gold Direct E5 6b * 6
142 Quicksilver 7a *** 139
143 The Electric Cool-aid Acid Test 7b+ *** 13
144 The Alchemist's Dream
-
E4 6a 11
  Firefly
146 Private Investigations E5 6b * 9
147 Too Low for Zero E3 6
148 Klondike E3 6a ** 72
149 Pocket City E3 6a ** 49
150 Sourdough E4 6a * 17
151 Sourdough Direct E5 6b * 1
152 Iron in My Soul
-
6c+ * 8
153 Solid Gold E3 6a ** 99
154 Captain Fingers 7a+ ** 33
155 Firefly E3 5c *** 147
156 Mr. Chips 7a ** 90
157 You've had Your Chips 7b ** 20
158 After the Gold Rush 6c * 19
159 The Bar Spangled Banner
-
6c * 3
160 Silver Surfer 6c+ * 47
161 Cage full of Budgies
-
7a 8
  Excursion
163 No Bark, No Drill 7c **  
164 Barking Up the Wrong Tree 7b ** 15
165 No Arc, No Bark 7a+ ** 53
166 Excursion Direct 6c+ ** 84
167 Call It Black E4 6a * 12
168 Excursion E2 5b *** 269
169 The Arc of Eternity E4 6a ** 18
170 Swift Gundercut E5 6a * 1
171 The Visionary E3 6a ** 48
172 Clear White Light E3 6a ** 53
173 Clear White Light Direct E4 6a * 5
174 Beaverbrook E5 6a * 5
175 Pershing II
-
E2 5b 4
176 Cruise Missile
-
E2 5c 4
  Deep Fix
178 Ivor Bigum 7b * 4
179 Utter from the Gutter 7c * 4
180 The Cold War 7a * 29
181 Belay Bunny Bounces Back 6a ** 158
182 Insidious Practices E2 5c * 29
183 Two-ton Caiman 7b * 15
184 Welcome to the Power Bulge 7b+ * 13
185 The Deep Fix E1 5b * 24
186 Vic 20 HVS 5b * 59
187 The Really Exciting Climb VS 5a ** 102
188 The Turquoise Turtle E3 6a * 5
189 Space Invaders E2 5b * 25
190 Astro Blaster
-
E4 6a 2
191 Paradise 6c * 13
192 The Bounty Hunters E3 5c * 5
  Lookout Area
194 Stake Out
-
7a * 10
195 Eliminator
-
7a+ * 15
196 Methylated Laughter
-
7a+ * 10
197 Adequate Compensation 6b+ * 22
198 Big is Best
-
6a+ * 31
199 Go for Gold
-
E1 5b * 17
200 New Gold Dream
-
E1 5b * 28
201 Fool's Gold
-
6c 23
202 Romancing the Stone
-
E4 6b * 1
203 Golden Confusion
-
HVS 5a 7
204 Passionate Friend
-
E1 5b * 53
205 Bruno His Wall
-
HVS 5a * 44
206 Uaeba
-
E5 6b 3
207 Sheik yer Money
-
6c ** 60
208 George Formby
-
7a+ * 18
209 Masada
-
E5 6b * 6
210 Silage Time
-
7a * 37
211 The Blood Red Game
-
HVS 4c 4
212 Meanstreak
-
E5 6b 5
213 Hom's Punk
-
E5 6a ** 6
214 The Jehad E5 6b ** 9
  Chain Gang
216 Pil
-
E1 5b 42
217 Primrose Walk E2 5c ** 18
218 Yellow Belly
-
E3 5c 17
219 Beachcomber
-
HVS 5b 13
220 Pen Trwyn Pilots
-
E4 6b * 2
221 Corinthian Groove 8b * 2
222 Foulish, Goulish 7b+ *** 25
223 Mr. Olympia E5 6b *** 32
224 Olympus Trip E6 6b ** 4
225 Iron Man 7b ** 5
226 Chain Gang E5 6b *** 52
227 More Genius E5 6b ** 19
228 Precious Time E4 6a * 53
229 Coiled Spine
-
E1 5b 16
230 The Stirrer
-
E2 5c 21
231 Kanly E2 5b ** 75
232 Bauxed HVS 5a ** 126
233 Reaving Slaying Conan VS 4c 2
234 Once in a Blue Moon
-
6b+ 6
  Yellow Wall
236 Badger Badger Badger 8a+ ** 3
237 Dive, Dive, Dive 7b ** 53
238 Crunchy Toad IX 7a+ * 60
239 White Seam
-
E3 5c 2
240 Melkor E3 5c * 62
241 Pen Trwyn Patrol E4 6a ** 46
242 Cornhollio 7b * 6
243 The Nut Cluster
-
E4 6a 5
244 The Pirates of Pen Trwyn 6c+ *** 152
245 String of Pearls 6b+ *** 388
246 Pale Shelter E1 5b ** 218
247 Second Sense
-
E4 6a 2
248 Lemon Entry
-
6c 6
249 The continuing adventures of Charlton Chestwig * E4 6a 2
  Black Walls
251 Spine Chill
-
6c+ * 54
252 Blackwall Tunnel
-
7a+ * 7
253 Menincursion
-
6c+ ** 47
254 The Peppermint Pig
-
E3 6a * 16
255 Willowbrooks Direct
-
7a+ * 11
256 The Lull
-
7b 10
257 Willowbrooks
-
7a * 8
258 Storm Warning
-
7a * 24
259 Drip, Drip, Drip Direct
-
7a * 12
260 Drip, Drip, Drip
-
6c ** 25
261 Wet Dreams
-
7a * 18
262 Captain Percival
-
6a+ * 127
263 Clutching at Squaws
-
6b+ * 69
264 Hot Chick 6b+ 7
265 Washington Waltz
-
E5 6b  
266 Salty Dog
-
E1 5b 4
267 Pure Mania
-
E3 5c 2
268 Lets lynch the landlord
-
E2 5c 9
269 Winterreise
-
6b 24
270 Secondhand Daylight
-
6b+ ** 6
271 Night-Time Rendezvous
-
6c+ 12
272 Nightwatch
-
7a+ * 6
273 Dave's Rent-a-Drill Co
-
E2 5b * 3
  Homo Sapien
275 2211
-
7a+ * 8
276 Ten Forty
-
7a 7
277 Karaoke Club
-
7a+ ** 4
278 Thin Red Line 7a+ ** 5
279 Blue Steel
-
7c **  
280 Homo Sexual 7b+  
281 Candle in the Wind 7a+ * 3
282 The Eleventh Hour
-
6c 1
283 Sonic Sinbad 7a * 18
284 The Thin Turquoise Line 6c+ * 29
285 Homo Erectus 7b ** 15
286 Homo Sapien 7a+ *** 113
287 White Hopes 7b *** 47
288 Snakes and Ladders 7c+ * 1
289 Sèverine 7b+ * 2
290 After the Fact
-
E4 6b 1
291 Raw
-
7a+ ** 2
292 The Gold Coast
-
E3 5c * 28
293 Watch Your Poison
-
7b *  
294 Loose Lingo
-
E4 6a 1
  End of the Road
296 Absolute Beginners
-
E2 5b 3
297 Frontiers of Reality
-
6a+ 16
298 Michelle's Pillar
-
E1 5b 7
299 Small Bore
-
6b+ * 14
300 Counting Crows
-
7c  
301 The Happening Boys
-
E4 6a 1
302 Sucking the Short Straw
-
E3 6a 3
303 More Quizzical then Physical
-
7b+ ** 2
304 Physical Abuse
-
7b+ * 2
305 Eco-Mouse
-
7b * 6
306 Treat Me Like a Person
-
6a+ * 37
307 Years of Abuse
-
6b+ 17
308 Reading Henry by the Road
-
6a+ 37
  Location Unknown
310 The Silmarillion
-
E3 6a 1
311 Squawk
-
6b 1
312 Planned Obsolescence 5c 6
313 Fall Back E5 6b * 2
314 Ward 10 E6 6b ** 2
315 Serious Trad 7a+ 1
316 Kanly Direct Start * E3 5c ** 1
317 Get on the Beam *
-
E2 5c 1
318 Big Licks * E4 6a * 3
319 Pirates of Pen Trwyn Patrol (Link) * E2 5b ** 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Luke Owens