Climbs 68
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 34m a.s.l
Faces NE

View Stats

Hanging out on Spiritchaser, FA © Anaconda

Crag features

Babbacombe Crags are an intriguing collection of shady cliffs and secluded bays which extend northwards from Long Quarry towards Withy Point.  There are six climbing sectors, which collectively deliver a surprisingly broad spectrum of climbing style and crag character.  Routes of historical stature rub shoulders with worthwhile recent additions.   The six sectors, all limestone, may be summarised:

Sea Slater Area – DWS and eclectic short trad. climbs  

Love Not War Area – longer quarried/natural trad. lines

Exile Buttress – (mostly) bolted lines on steep, natural rock*

Shelter Cove – DWS/coasteering and an adventurous cliff climb

New Quarry – quality trad. climbs on both quarried and natural rock, plus bouldering** and DWS     

Withy Point Rocks – seaside DWS and more eclectic trad. climbs

*ground falls away at the crag base, clip stick and long sling(s) advisable

**described separately in UKC under the wayward venue name Walls Hill North

 

Approach notes

The topography of the area is relatively complex and warrants a little time spent in familiarisation.  The 2018 South Devon guide gives detail on the key access routes.  Gloves, secateurs and an adventurous disposition are beneficial as some of the descent paths are ill-frequented. 

As well as being a fine viewpoint and picnic spot, Flagstaff Point is the starting point for the southward descent to Sea Slater RHS/Love Not War area and the northward descent to Exile Buttress and the abseil approach for The Wake.  Northwards along the edge of the Downs, two separate descent paths close to a prominent kink in the fence (a viewpoint, with a bench) lead down to the respective abseil approaches for the Neophron Wall and Krapps Area in New Quarry.  Further north again, a walk-in route to New Quarry can be gained from the gated road which heads downslope from the cricket club; bear right across a level area overhung by trees at the point where the road swings left then continue down the steep coastal slope.  Withy Point can be reached from Babbacombe Harbour and access to Anaconda area from above is possible by exploring the woodland below the Coast Path.  If you don’t have the benefit of the guide book and need more guidance, contact moderator Anaconda via. UKC.     

 

 

 

Could Be Hardcore = Hardcore. Dig It = Rave To The Grave Only one trad line left on the cliff...The Exile!
tomrainbow - 16/Jun/15
The rope is back.
andy_pemberton - 12/Apr/15
Rope is no longer there to help you get down
JaffaCakes - 27/Mar/14
Exile buttress well worth a visit. Nowt like Anstey's. Rock reminiscent of Cheddar.
Paul Robertson - 18/Mar/14
There is a rope to help you get down towards the crag , literally just before you enter the crag , that's what the access descriptions means by fixed rope
JaffaCakes - 08/Jun/13
Been to Exile Buttress today. The newly bolted routes are definitely worth a visit. There is no fixed rope as described in the access notes.
Dale Turrell - 04/Jun/13
Login as Existing User to add your comments

Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Sea Slater Cliff
2 Sea Slater Inlet Traverse 6b * 6
3 Fruitcake Flake HVS 5b  
4 Fused With Higher 6b+ **  
5 Fused with Fruitcake E2 5c * 1
6 Sea Slater HS 4b 1
7 Sea Slater Continuation HVS 5a 1
  Love Not War Buttress
9 Phased E1 5a * 1
10 Snoopy VS 4b  
11 Love Not War S * 2
12 Love Not War Variation 4a HS 4a 1
  Exile Buttress
14 Hardcore 7a 15
15 You Know the Score 7a * 27
16 Rave to the grave 6b 13
17 The Exile E2 5b 3
18 Me & My Magnum 7a ** 41
19 He Shoots He Scores 7b+ 11
20 Harlem Rude Boy 6b ** 45
  Shelter Cove
22 Mirthless One 6c+  
23 The Wake E3 5c * 3
24 The Kraken VII+ ** 4
  New Quarry - Holy Hour Area
26 The Holy Hour E3 5c * 1
27 Reverence E3 5c *  
Climb name Grade
28 Imprecation E2 5c 1
29 Weeping Angel HVS 5b  
  New Quarry - Neophron Wall
31 Fear of Flying E3 5c * 1
32 The Cabinet of Dr Caligari E5 6a *  
33 Iconoclast E2 5b ** 11
34 Neophron E3 5c ** 6
35 Paranormale E7 6b **  
36 Spiritchaser E3 5c ** 1
37 Fear of ghosts E5 6a ** 3
38 Possession E4 5c * 1
39 Eidolon E1 5c  
  New Quarry - Quantum Area
41 Anodyne Affair HS 4b 1
42 The Memory Garden VS 4c/5a  
43 Emptiness Inside E1 5c  
44 Quantum of Solace HS 4b 1
45 Fear of the Unknown VS 5a  
46 Circumspection Rib HVS 4c/5a  
  New Quarry - Krapps Area
48 Krapp's Last Fake VS 5a * 2
49 Fake's Last Pith E6 6b *  
50 Fake's Last Krapp HVS a1  
51 Kraft Speaks Pal! E4 6b *  
52 All That Fall HVS 5b * 3
  New Quarry Beach and northwards DWS
54 Slanted Crack VB 4c 1
Climb name Grade
55 Black Jack 6a *  
56 Victory V 6a+  
57 Fisherman's Friend 6a  
58 Jammie Dodger 6a+ **  
59 Banana Splits 6b *  
60 Curiosity 6b *  
61 Bee Line 4c  
62 Big Buzz 5c *  
  Withy Point Rocks - Anaconda Area
64 Kiss Chase 6a *  
65 Undertow 6b+ *  
66 De-Luxe 6b *  
67 Mystery Meg E2 5b * 1
68 Kermit's Evening Special HVS 4c 1
69 Anaconda 6a+ *  
70 Anaconda Continuation 6b ** 1
  Withy Point Rocks - Back Cliff Area
72 At Sea E3 5b/c 1
73 Siddaw Bwurda VD 1
74 Go with the Flow E2 5a/b *  
75 Thin Air E2 5c *  
  Withy Point Rocks - Quick Dip Area
77 Quick Dip HVS 5a  
78 Happy when it rains 7b+ ** 1
79 Life's an Ocean 6b+ *  
80 When the Sun Hits 6b+ *  

Moderators Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteers misterb and Anaconda