Climbs 57
Rocktype Limestone

Faces SE

Macca Cruises Could Be Hardcore, Exile Buttress, Torquay © jezmiles

Crag features

Actually a "chaotic scattering of craglets, wooded dells and pungent grottoes extending from Babbacombe beach, to the descent path which leads down in to Long Quarry Point. The area is more of a summer/autumn venue, although calm days during the winter and spring can give the crags more of an atmospheric feel"

Exile Buttress: A shady summer venue with a mix of trad and sport routes on generally sound rock(higher up some fragile rock can be found)Clip stick advisable and some long slings for the belayer to attach to insitu threads are useful as the ground below the crag shelves away quite quickly into steep bramble territory.

Approach notes

Park as for Long Quarry Point/Anstey's Cove.

Exile Buttress:Walk to the shelter as for long quarry point,turn left and walk 60m until you see a bench on the right.Duck through the wire fence and go 40m to a tree,turn left and follow a faint path down and slightly right for 40m .At 2 ivy covered trees turn right and follow another faint path towards some small rocks, keep close to these until you find a fixed rope, follow this to the crag.

Could Be Hardcore = Hardcore. Dig It = Rave To The Grave Only one trad line left on the cliff...The Exile!
tomrainbow - 16/Jun/15
The rope is back.
andy_pemberton - 12/Apr/15
Rope is no longer there to help you get down
JaffaCakes - 27/Mar/14
Exile buttress well worth a visit. Nowt like Anstey's. Rock reminiscent of Cheddar.
Paul Robertson - 18/Mar/14
There is a rope to help you get down towards the crag , literally just before you enter the crag , that's what the access descriptions means by fixed rope
JaffaCakes - 08/Jun/13
Been to Exile Buttress today. The newly bolted routes are definitely worth a visit. There is no fixed rope as described in the access notes.
Dale Turrell - 04/Jun/13
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  LOVE NOT WAR SLAB
2 Sea Slater
-
HS 4b 1
3 Snoopy
-
VS 4b  
4 Love Not War
-
HVD * 1
5 Love Not War Variation 4a
-
HS 4a 1
  EXILE BUTTRESS
7 Hardcore 7a 13
8 You Know the Score 7a * 25
9 Rave to the grave 6b 12
10 The Exile E2 5b 3
11 Me & My Magnum 7a ** 34
12 He Shoots He Scores 7b+ 7
13 Harlem Rude Boy 6b ** 36
  GASKINGS ROCK AREA
15 The Wake
-
E2 5b *  
16 The Kraken
-
VII+ ** 4
17 Fear of Flying E3 5c 1
18 The Cabinet of Dr Caligari
-
E5 6a *  
19 Iconoclast E2 5b ** 8
20 Neophron E3 5c ** 6
21 Fear of ghosts E5 6a ** 3
22 Quantum of Solace
-
S 4a  
23 Krapp's Last Fake VS 5a * 4
24 Fake's Last Krapp HVS a1  
25 All That Fall HVS 5b * 4
  WITHY POINT ROCKS
27 Kermit's Evening Special
-
E2 5b 1
28 Siddaw Bwurda
-
VD  
29 Quick Dip
-
HVS 5a  
30 Slanted Crack VB 4c 1
31 Possession E4 5c * 1
32 Eidolon E1 5c  
33 Spiritchaser E3 5c ** 1
34 The Holy Hour E4 5c * 1
35 Phased E1 5a * 1
36 Sea Slater Continuation HVS 5a 1
37 Fused With Higher - flake variation E2 5c * 1
38 Happy when it rains 7b+ ** 1
39 Kiss Chase 6a *  
40 Undertow 6b+ *  
41 De-Luxe 6b *  
42 Anaconda 6a+ *  
43 Anaconda Continuation 6b ** 1
44 Mystery Meg E2 5b * 1
45 At Sea E3 5b/c 1
46 When the Sun Hits 6b+ *  
47 Life's an Ocean 6b+ *  
48 Fruitcake Flake HVS 5b  
49 Fused With Higher 6b+ **  
50 Mirthless One 6c+  
51 Paranormale E7 6b **  
52 Fake's Last Pith E6 6b *  
53 Kraft Speaks Pal! E4 6b *  
54 Black Jack 6a *  
55 Victory V 6a+  
56 Fisherman's Friend 6a  
57 Jammie Dodger 6a+ **  
58 Banana Splits 6a+ *  
59 Curiosity 6b *  
60 Bee Line 4c  
61 Big Buzz 5c *  

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