Climbs 80
Rocktype Limestone

Faces E

Sunset over Llandudno © Alejandro

Crag features

If any crag can claim to have the best hard sport climbing in the country then it isnít Malham Cove or Raven Tor, it is in fact Lower Pen Trwyn. However LPT isnít just about these super hard routes, it is the wealth of other good sport routes which make it the popular venue it now is; that and the lack of restrictions on the climbing. There are no bird restrictions, school holiday restrictions or loose route restrictions, here you can climb when you like. Well almost when you like; the tide has to be out but at least you can guarantee that this will happen once during daylight hours.

Further along the headland from lower Pen Trwyn are three other small locations - Dutchmans Zawn with 4 routes, Pigeons cave with 20 routes and three small walls and Cockshell Bay with another handful of routes.

Approach notes

Follow the Marine Drive until just past the first cave (the Dumbell Flyer Area). Jump over the wall and follow a well cut path steeply down onto the boulder beach.

The entire base of the cliff is cut off at high tide. You can see how high the water gets by the distinct tide line at about 3 or 4 metres. As the tide goes out the routes are revealed from the left-hand end first, with the last ones exposed for about 3 hours around low tide. This is all pretty obvious from the road above the crag and you don

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North Wales Climbs

North Wales Climbs covers the best climbing from the whole of this huge and varied area. The book is modelled on the very popular West Country Climbs which set a new standard for selected climb guidebooks back in 2010. It contains all the routes from the 2010 publication North Wales Classics and many more routes and areas, with expanded descriptions and much bigger photo-topos. The book covers all the major mountain crags from Llanberis Pass, to Cloggy; and from Ogwen to the Carneddau. It also includes the Llanberis Slate quarries, Tremadog, the Moelwyns, the Gwynant Valley, Mid-Wales, Gogarth and the North Coast Limestone.
More info
More Guidebooks:
North Wales Rock (2006)

Out of print:
Blog post/crag review of LPT:
a13x - 14/Aug/13
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Under the Boardwalk 
2Nameless6c+ *23
3That's Where I'll Be7a *8
4The Refrain7b **104
5Under the Boardwalk6c ***592
6On a Blanket with My Baby
E3 5c 1
7She's a Beach7a *20
8Down by the Sea7a+ *45
9Life's a Beach7b *22
10Dark Angel8b 2
 Over the Moon 
12Melancholie8b ***7
13Melancopout8a+ 4
14Bad Melons8a+  
15Melon Beach8a+ **2
16I've Been a Bad, Bad Boy7c+ ***180
17Pas de Deux8a+ **1
18Bad Beach7c+ * 
19Mussel Beach8a **108
20Mussel Beach Extension8a 1
21Parasite8a **29
22Paratrooper8a+ ***2
23Battle of the Parasites7c+ *8
24Battle of the Little Big Orme8a ***17
25Over the Moon8a ***13
26Over the Moon Direct8a ***51
27Moonwalk8a+ **4
28The Walking Mussel8b+ ***3
29Megalopa8c+ **1
30Seagull's Dilemma
8b 1
31Sea of Tranquility8c+ ***1
32Liquid Ambar8c+ ***2
33The Big Bang9a *** 
34Infanticide8c ***1
 Statement of Youth 
36Wild Understatement8a+ **9
37Wild Youth8b ***1
38Youthanasia8b ***1
39Wild Statement8a ***1
40Statement of Youth8a ***154
41Rompsville7c **13
42A Fair Sized Fish7c+ *1
43Night Glue7a+ ***332
44Martha7c **9
45Wall of Voodoo7b *28
46Jacuzzi JiveE4 6a **25
47Twisting by the PoolE4 6a **26
48Tokoloshe Man
E2 5c 7
49Voodoo Child7a *40
50Passengers6a+ 54
51The Pink Pinkie Snuffs It7a **270
52Café Libre7c+ *3
 Face Race 
54La Boheme7b ***58
55La Boheme Direct7b+ **8
56Libertango7b+ **23
57Mean Mother7b ***73
58Face Race7a+ ***208
59Mad O'Rourke's Kipper House6c+ *83
60New Moon on Monday
E2 5c *7
61Goodbye Mickey Mouse6b *72
62Mr. Stormalong5c *86
63Khashoggis Ship6b 27
 Kaffe Fasset 
65Bosch Bastards6b 70
66Kaffe Fasset6b+ **340
6b 14
68Skin Deep6a+ *298
69Waiting for the Spaceship
E3 6a 5
70Beauty is Only6a **337
71Skin Game6a+ **356
72Golden Pond5c *284
73Dolphin Therapy6a+ *54
74The Water Margin
HVS 5a *16
75Ian's Route TBC
6a+ 4
 Routes Added from Rockfax Book 
77Thick Skinned6c+ *5
 Lower Pen Trwyn Right 
79Flat Calm5c **2

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