UKC

Climbs 80
Rocktype Limestone

Faces E

Sunset over Llandudno © Alejandro

Crag features

If any crag can claim to have the best hard sport climbing in the country then it isn?t Malham Cove or Raven Tor, it is in fact Lower Pen Trwyn. However LPT isn?t just about these super hard routes, it is the wealth of other good sport routes which make it the popular venue it now is; that and the lack of restrictions on the climbing. There are no bird restrictions, school holiday restrictions or loose route restrictions, here you can climb when you like. Well almost when you like; the tide has to be out but at least you can guarantee that this will happen once during daylight hours.
Further along the headland from lower Pen Trwyn are three other small locations - Dutchmans Zawn with 4 routes, Pigeons cave with 20 routes and three small walls and Cockshell Bay with another handful of routes.

Approach notes

Follow the Marine Drive until just past the first cave (the Dumbell Flyer Area). Jump over the wall and follow a well cut path steeply down onto the boulder beach.

Access Advice

The entire base of the cliff is cut off at high tide. You can see how high the water gets by the distinct tide line at about 3 or 4 metres. As the tide goes out the routes are revealed from the left-hand end first, with the last ones exposed for about 3 hours around low tide. This is all pretty obvious from the road above the crag and you don?t need to make any committing abseil to get there.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

North Wales Climbs

North Wales Climbs covers the best climbing from the whole of this huge and varied area. The book is modelled on the very popular West Country Climbs which set a new standard for selected climb guidebooks back in 2010. It contains all the routes from the 2010 publication North Wales Classics and many more routes and areas, with expanded descriptions and much bigger photo-topos. The book covers all the major mountain crags from Llanberis Pass, to Cloggy; and from Ogwen to the Carneddau. It also includes the Llanberis Slate quarries, Tremadog, the Moelwyns, the Gwynant Valley, Mid-Wales, Gogarth and the North Coast Limestone.
More info
More Guidebooks:
North Wales Limestone (2014)
North Wales Rock (2006)

Out of print:
Blog post/crag review of LPT: http://thefinalpunt.wordpress.com/2013/08/12/the-great-orme-lower-pen-trwyn/
a13x - 14/Aug/13
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Under the Boardwalk
2 Nameless 6c+ * 31
3 That's Where I'll Be 7a * 10
4 The Refrain 7b ** 122
5 Under the Boardwalk 6c *** 673
6 On a Blanket with My Baby
-
E3 5c 2
7 She's a Beach 7a * 25
8 Down by the Sea 7a+ * 47
9 Life's a Beach 7b * 26
10 Dark Angel 8b 2
  Over the Moon
12 Melancholie 8b *** 9
13 Melancopout 8a+ 3
14 Bad Melons 8a+  
15 Melon Beach 8a+ ** 2
16 I've Been a Bad, Bad Boy 7c+ *** 172
17 Pas de Deux 8a+ ** 2
18 Bad Beach 7c+ *  
19 Mussel Beach 8a ** 82
20 Mussel Beach Extension 8a 1
21 Parasite 8a ** 34
22 Paratrooper 8a+ *** 2
23 Battle of the Parasites 7c+ * 8
24 Battle of the Little Big Orme 8a *** 20
25 Over the Moon 8a *** 15
26 Over the Moon Direct 8a *** 61
27 Moonwalk 8a+ ** 4
Climb name Grade
28 The Walking Mussel 8b+ *** 3
29 Megalopa 8c+ ** 1
30 Seagull's Dilemma
-
8b 1
31 Sea of Tranquility 8c+ *** 1
32 Liquid Ambar 8c+ *** 2
33 The Big Bang 9a ***  
34 Infanticide 8c *** 2
  Statement of Youth
36 Wild Understatement 8a+ ** 8
37 Wild Youth 8b *** 1
38 Youthanasia 8b *** 1
39 Wild Statement 8a *** 1
40 Statement of Youth 8a *** 74
41 Rompsville 7c ** 13
42 A Fair Sized Fish 7c+ * 1
43 Night Glue 7a+ *** 347
44 Martha 7c ** 10
45 Wall of Voodoo 7b * 28
46 Jacuzzi Jive E4 6a ** 31
47 Twisting by the Pool E4 6a ** 38
48 Tokoloshe Man
-
E2 5c 7
49 Voodoo Child 7a * 43
50 Passengers 6a+ 56
51 The Pink Pinkie Snuffs It 7a ** 282
52 Café Libre 7c+ * 7
  Face Race
54 La Boheme 7b *** 54
Climb name Grade
55 La Boheme Direct 7b+ ** 10
56 Libertango 7b+ ** 24
57 Mean Mother 7b *** 84
58 Face Race 7a+ *** 219
59 Mad O'Rourke's Kipper House 6c+ * 94
60 New Moon on Monday
-
E2 5c * 7
61 Goodbye Mickey Mouse 6b * 78
62 Mr. Stormalong 5c * 90
63 Khashoggis Ship 6b 32
  Kaffe Fasset
65 Bosch Bastards 6b 77
66 Kaffe Fasset 6b+ ** 366
67 Choss
-
6b 17
68 Skin Deep 6a+ * 346
69 Waiting for the Spaceship
-
E3 6a 9
70 Beauty is Only 6a ** 370
71 Skin Game 6a+ ** 411
72 Golden Pond 5c * 323
73 Dolphin Therapy 6a+ * 66
74 The Water Margin
-
HVS 5a * 14
75 Ian's Route TBC
-
6a+ 5
  Routes Added from Rockfax Book
77 Thick Skinned 6c+ * 14
  Lower Pen Trwyn Right
79 Flat Calm 5c ** 8
  Dutchman

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