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UKClimbing Team

Climbs 52
Rocktype Granite
Altitude 4m a.s.l
Faces S

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Alex concentrating hard on Hornet © Dilwat

Crag features

Up to 20m good solid granite. Diffs to E grades. Lots of routes described on "Bluedome" - were deemed to be lacking in stature for previous guidebook - good beginners crag.

Approach notes

Limited parking above cove. Walk down to the cove and follow coast path eastwards to crown of headland. Go down righthand side of headland (facing out) and cramble down to sea-level. Traverse back right (facing in).

This leads to the outer rocks on the left arm that forms the cove. The first feature is a rocky outcrop on the left, with an obvious roof. It is important NOT to climb on this, as it is covered with greenery (lichen) and to clean it may cause offence to the National Trust who owns the cove. Below this outcrop is a sloping slab with large boulders at the top. Area 1 is on the seaward side of the slab.

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 Organ
-
D 7
2 Knights Climb D 10
3 WKD! E3 5b * 8
4 Excresence HS 4b 10
5 Excalibur VD 20
6 Ex-file
-
D 19
7 Head-Rush E1 5a 6
8 Head-Rush Variation VS 4c 2
9 D.Tour
-
VD 19
10 D Tour Direct Start HS 4b 2
11 D.Tain D 26
12 The Banana
-
D 3
13 Bums Rush S 20
14 Hornet
-
VS 4c 11
15 Hornet Direct Finish
-
VS 5a 7
16 Horn
-
S 4b 7
17 Net
-
S 4a 9
18 Sk8er Boi HVS 5b 3
Climb name Grade
19 Leaning HS 4b 7
20 Yawn
-
S 4b 11
21 Race Against Tide
-
VD 9
22 Dog-Leg
-
VD 16
23 A-Snip
-
S 7
24 A-Snip Indirect D 1
25 Rangamutti
-
S 9
26 Short, Back and Sides
-
S 7
27 Soft Lad VD 1
28 Gangway
-
D 4
29 Wavemaster
-
D 8
30 Follow the Vein VD 2
31 Minks Fart D * 13
32 Nicks Niche S * 12
33 Fiddlesticks
-
D 5
34 Horse Feathers
-
D 5
35 Ducksoup
-
VD 10
36 A Day at the Races
-
VD 3
Climb name Grade
37 Afternoon Grooves HS 4b 2
38 Amerindia HS 4b 2
39 Thirty Something E1 5b 1
40 They do at that age
-
HVS 5a * 7
41 Rubble Trouble
-
S 3
42 Iron Filings
-
VD 5
43 Toblerone
-
D 2
44 Special Delivery
-
D 1
45 Tales of a Rusty Tramline
-
D 4
46 Postman's Knock
-
D 1
47 Bionicle
-
HS 4b 1
48 New Bionicle
-
VS 5a 1
49 Out of the Shadow
-
S 4b 1
50 Groucho
-
S 4
51 Little Brute E1 5c E1 5c 1
  Penberth West
53 Fat Crack E1 5a 2

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