Climbs 177
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 294m a.s.l
Faces SE

Audrey Seguy at Venasque © Enty

Crag features

One of the least known areas in this guide, Venasque has a concentration of very high quality routes with very short approaches. The routes vary from those which are technical, vertical and festooned with slopers to jaw-droppingly steep walls with long sustained climbs. This is generally a shady spot but you can get some sun if you get there early enough in the day. 

There are many more crags than described here, though a lot of the crags at Venasque are on private land and remain undeveloped. For three other developed areas, you may be able to acquire the local topo at the tourist information office in the town of Venasque, but this is closed off-season. 

Quinsan gets some sun in the morning but is in the shade otherwise. In hot weather the shade will be welcome, but in the winter it will probably be too cold for comfort. Place de l'Ascle is a lot sunnier than Quinsan, though much of it falls into the shade in the afternoon. The starts of the routes are heavily sheltered by trees so whatever time of day you will probably have a shady belay spot.

Approach notes

From either Venasque or the D4, follow the D247 south in the direction of Le Beaucet. A number of crags can be seen on the right. After about 1km, just beyond a bend, an unsigned minor road leads off to the left. 

Quinsan - take this turning and follow the road until a small parking area is found on the left. The path leads up opposite and splits at a bolted-on wooden sign allowing direct access to the left or right ends of the crag. 

Place de l'Ascle - continue driving to where a track leads off to the right just before the road meets the cliff. It is very easy to miss this turning, so slow right down when you see the road getting close to the rock.

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Guidebooks

France : Haute Provence

The first in a series of selective guidebooks, France: Haute Provence presents many of the finest sport climbing destinations in the world together in one clear and colourful book. Covering all the best areas from the magnificent walls of Céüse in the north to the impeccable climbing playground of Buoux to the south, this book has a lifetime’s worth of climbing waiting on its pages.
More info
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Quinsan
2 Illustrator 6b  
3 Magazine 6c+ * 1
4 Profil 7a+ **  
5 Project ? 2
6 Ticket Repas 7b+ *  
7 L'État de Grace 6b+ *  
8 Macintosh 7a ** 2
9 Gangster d'armour 7a+ ** 1
10 Hyper Brown 6a+ ** 5
11 Téchnofrite 7a+ *  
12 Biodynamique 7a *  
13 1992 7a *  
14 Virus 6c *  
15 Baby Relax 6b+ * 1
16 Nerveux S'Abstenir 6b+ *  
17 Le Clan 7b **  
18 Tube 7a *  
19 La Compil 6c+ * 1
20 Jour Pour Jour 6c **  
21 Action 7a+ *  
22 Séquence Passion 6b+ *  
23 Nicotine & Goudron 6c * 2
24 Microcosme 6b *** 5
25 Le Pilier de Aléas 7a  
26 Les Arts Ménagers 6b 1
27 Unnamed 6a  
28 Exercice de lecture 6b * 2
29 Gin Tonic 7b **  
30 Trop Uelie Pour Toi 7a *** 1
31 Lucky 13 6c **  
32 Dérapage Controlée 7a *  
33 Atha 6c+ *  
34 Spormidable 6c **  
35 Ouvrez le Feu 6c *** 3
36 Bad Dance 7a+ * 2
37 20 mètres au Paradis 7a ** 4
38 Kéksék Ksa? 6b ** 6
39 Jazz Time 6b+ *  
40 Retour de Spectacle 6a+ 2
41 La Mouche 6b ** 2
42 Urban Jungle 6b+ ** 1
43 Little Big Man 6b+ ** 4
44 Sympathy for the Devil 7b ** 1
45 Envie de Toi 6c *** 5
46 Mauvais Coup 7a+ ** 3
47 Allo Mamanm Boseettes ?  
48 Acromégalie 7a *  
49 Plat de Résistance 7b * 2
50 On n'est pas des Zéros 6c+  
51 Amicalement Vôtre 6b  
52 Rockland 7a+  
53 Silencers 7a+ *  
54 La Déchirure 7b *  
55 Jeu de Paume 7a *  
56 Platine 7b *  
57 Platonique 6c **  
58 Nulle Part Ailleurs 6c *  
59 Papy Bosseur 6c *  
60 Déclaration de fin de Chatier ?  
61 Mamie Brossa 7a *  
62 Faut pas en Faire un Plat 6c *  
63 L'Astronaute 6b *  
64 Pleine Lune 6b *  
  Place de l'Ascle
66 Les Vilains Petits Canards 7a ** 7
67 Power Flower 7a ** 13
68 37 Huit 6b+ ** 47
69 Allo? Colchita? 6c ** 22
70 Hasta Siempre 6b+ 1
71 Sirocco 7a+ ** 8
72 Elle Chante dans le Vent 7b+ *** 1
73 Les Petits Qui Frétillent 7b *** 4
74 Aller Plus Haut 7b+ *** 16
75 Misanthropies Thérapeutiques 7b *** 34
76 Champ du Possible 7b+ ** 4
77 Vole 7b *** 11
78 Petite Marie 6c+ *** 51
79 Blacks Blancs Beurs 6c+ ** 2
80 Unknown 1 1 2
81 Rêves Brulés 6a+ *** 20
82 Laissons les Dire 6a *** 40
83 Beaucoup de Bruit pour Rien 6a+ *** 35
84 Jusqu'au Bout 6a+ *** 15
85 Le Moldus au Balcon 6a 2
86 Camino del Piedra 6a 3
87 Con la Luz 6a * 19
88 Mieux Vaut en Rire 6a 11
89 À la Fraîche 6a 4
90 GaMeuBuZo 5c * 21
91 Mauvais Virus 6b+ * 14
92 Je Reviens Demain 6a+ * 12
93 Jumbo Appetite 6c * 10
94 Cap Chevalier 6a+ 10
95 Unknown 2 5a 4
96 Unknown 3 5a  
97 Unknown 4 5a 2
98 Unknown 5 5c  
99 Unknown 6 6a *  
100 Unknown 7 6a *  
101 Sur la Route 6b  
102 Duel Végétale 6a+ *  
103 La Dame du Lac 6c *  
104 La Partie Continue 6a *** 21
105 Play-List 6b+ ** 14
106 Chez Francis 6c ** 5
107 Tireur d'Élite 6c * 1
108 Le Quart d'Heure Américain 6b * 5
109 Allô?! La Terre 6c+ *  
110 Fête de Pères 7a+ *  
111 Trésor Caché 7b * 1
112 Blédina Carotte 7b *  
113 La Restanque 6c * 1
114 Boule de Calin 7a * 6
115 Eh Tardado Mucho 7a * 4
116 Mise au Vert 6b+ * 5
117 Terminator 6b * 5
118 Colère de Lait 5c 2
119 Feu 6a+ * 1
120 Sortie Ouest 6a+  
121 Bézingougne 7a+ *  
122 L'Intégrale de Peuterey 7b *** 20
123 Aprés Moi le Déluge 7c+ *** 1
124 Unknown 7c+ *** 1
125 Ça Ira Mieux Demain 7c *** 8
126 Lou Gardeù 7c+ ***  
127 Unknown 8 8a ** 4
128 Merci d'être Passé 8a+ *** 1
129 Roule Bamboule 8b *  
  WHERE ARE THESE CLIMBS???
131 Si j'osais Bové - Objectif Purée
-
7c+ *** 2
132 Coeur De Lion
-
7a *** 2
133 Tete Du Mule
-
6c 2
134 Manque De Complicite
-
6c+ *** 3
135 Ca Va Pas S'arranger
-
7a *** 2
136 Chacun Fait Ce Qui Lui Plait
-
7a *** 2
137 Libere Jose Bove
-
7b *** 2
138 Les Ronchons, Dehors!!!
-
7b ** 2
139 Sommeil Paradoxal
-
7a+ 2
140 Le bon plan 7b *** 1
141 Le cri de Che
-
7b+ 1
142 Trouvailles Ardechoises 6b+ ** 2
143 Fromage Ou Desert
-
6b+ 3
144 La Pour Suite de Bone Heur
-
6b  
145 Au Dedale des Dalles
-
6b+ 1
146 Unknown climb above and left of Le Basin #1 5c 1
147 Unknown climb above and left of Le Basin #2
-
6a  
148 Unknown climb above and left of Le Basin #3
-
6a 1
149 Unknown climb above and left of Le Basin #4
-
6a 1
150 Unknown climb above and left of Le Basin #5
-
6a+ 1
151 Bricoman 8a *** 1
152 Homeland 7b+ *** 1
153 20 Meters Au Paradise
-
7a * 1
154 Seance Nocturne
-
6b+ * 1
155 La Poursuite Du Bonheur
-
6b+ ** 3
156 Hibou Joujou Cailloux
-
6b+ *** 3
157 Extraplatt
-
6c * 1
158 Rouillez Jeunesse
-
6a *** 2
159 La Bonne Etoile
-
6b+ ** 1
160 Brooklyn Boogie
-
6a+ 1
161 Le Pere Noel est Parmi Nous
-
6a 1
162 D.I.Y.
-
6b 2
163 La Chambre d'Ami
-
6a+ 1
164 Le Four
-
6a 2
165 Le Jeune Ouvrier
-
6b 1
166 Pokhara
-
6b+ 1
167 L'atelier
-
6b 1
168 Premier Tour
-
6b+ 1
169 Noyeux Joel
-
6c 1
170 Terapirate
-
7a 1
171 L'invitation
-
7a+ 1
172 Faute de Gaussier
-
6b 1

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