Climbs 34
Rocktype Sandstone (soft)
Altitude 8m a.s.l
Faces all

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Beach bouldering at Gullane. Sand and broken glass in holds, but a nice sunset. © digiphotoneil

Crag features

Don't use any hard/wire brushes and avoid climbing after heavy rainfall - Climbing on wet soft sandstone destroys it!

There are three areas - Hummell rocks proper is the a first outcrop with a couple of large boulders and smaller ones around, some big enough to be climbed. King's Chair is the head of this mini-cliff outcrop and can be easily identified by the steep overhang on its north west side. The smaller boulder directly North of this is the 'Waterboy'. Its bottom is covered at high tide.

Passed this, further West, is a second, small beach with a long vertical wall - 'Hummell wall'. This wall has some potential for easy highballs or mini-routes, but most of its lower part is too soft and very sandy.

Directly behind it (access around the north sea-ward side) lays the third area, a small alley with some potential for eliminates ('the Alley').

A bouldering mat will be handy to climb the King's chair but the rest of the landings are fairly safe.

The rock can be quite sandy so bring a GENTLE DUST BRUSH to clean off the holds (especially after kids have done sand battles).

Video here:

Approach notes

Head for Gullane Bay car park (there is a charge to park here from late spring to early autumn). From the car park head to the beach. Follow the beach toward the West, you will see the boulders.


No guides found for this crag

Update 24 June 2019 - The sand level is much lower below the main wall than it was in 2017, making the climbs more challenging - the potential for bad landings is bigger and you can't dust off the upper holds prior to ascent anymore. But I repeated an t-Sliseag, Àrd-ealain and the overhang lip traverse and they're definitely the best climbs for me here (with the mini-roof). Videos from 2017: Lip traverse: An t-sliseag:
Maragmhòraix - 24/Jun/19
My pleasure ;-) I think it's a nice local venue.
Maragmhòraix - 21/Sep/14
Psyched to try the new routes! Cheers for cleaning this page up man!
daftendirekt - 20/Sep/14
Very nice location . Pity the rock is so sandy and the boulders so small.
Maragmhòraix - 07/Aug/14
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Honeycombe Boulder
2 The table f5+ 9
3 Crunchie f5+ 12
4 Crunchie SS f6A * 1
5 Honey Monster f6A 10
6 Honey monster SS f6A 1
7 Bear Claw f6B+ * 5
  Waterboy Boulder
9 Whoop Ass
f3 5
10 Captain Insano f3 6
11 Captain Insano shows no mercy f5+ 5
12 Waterboy's rock over f5 9
13 Surface Tension f6A 6
Climb name Grade
  King's Chair
15 Unforsaken f6A+ 6
16 Forsaken f5+ 10
17 I bent my Wookie f3 7
18 Wookie f3 8
20 Slide f3 2
  Hummell wall
22 Prow f3 5
23 Prow eliminate f6A 3
24 Tangology f7A 2
25 Mini roof f6B ** 5
26 Rise of the caveman f6A+ 3
Climb name Grade
27 Crimpy arête f6A 4
28 Hummelliation f6B 4
29 Humiliation f7A 2
30 Slab and wall f4+ 3
31 Salvage f4 * 3
32 Àirde An Làin f6A 2
33 High and dry f5 6
34 Leum
f6A 2
35 An t-sliseag f6B+ ** 1
36 Àrd-ealain f7A 1
37 Column f3 2
38 Whale f3+ 2
39 Overhang lip traverse f6C+ ** 1

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