An increasingly popular sport climbing venue which commands spectacular views over the sea towards the Great Orme. Over recent years a good number of well bolted sport climbs have been added across the spread of grades from F2 to F8a.
Stand out routes include 'Slab Tommy Chamonix' 8a, 'The Shouting Stage' E5 6a and 'Map of the Problematique' F6c+
'Lower Level' - An easily accessible and sheltered level with a number of clip ups from F5+ to F7a
'Main Slab' - An impressive 40 metre slab of excellent quality Micro Diorite F6b - F8a + trad E5.
'The Last Butt One Level' - A well positioned level with a really pleasant walk in from the Sychnant Pass + a range of sport clip ups from F2 to F7a.
Last Butt One Level:
Access is best from the Sychnant Pass side (as opposed to the route up from the bottom described in the A55 guide). Park at the Sychnant Pass car park and follow the track to a ford and black gate; continue along the North Wales Path, carrying straight on at a track crossing. At a lone birch tree next to a wooden bench a path leads down to the quarry. Aim for the big flat plateau with a lone brick quarry building
Last Butt One Level:
Access is best from the Sychnant Pass side (as opposed to the route up from the bottom described in the A55 guide). Park at the Sychnant Pass car park and follow the track to a ford and black gate; continue along the North Wales Path, carrying straight on at a track crossing. At a lone birch tree next to a wooden bench a path leads down to the quarry. Aim for the big flat plateau with a lone brick quarry building - this is the "Last Butt One Level". 10-15 minutes walk from road to crag.
Access to this level can be made from dropping down a couple of levels from the "Last Butt One Level" or more easily from the Lower Level".
Turn off the A55 at J17. Drive towards Conwy and take the second on the right, just after crossing over the railway. This dead end is the old A55. Park at the end before a gate. Cross the stile and head rightwards, gently rising up the hillside. You are aiming for the old winding house above an incline. Go through the winding house and stay on the same level to access the lower quarry. For the 'Main Slab level' go up the next incline.
The easier routes on the crag (at least those on the Last Butt One Level)are not well served by the new North Wales Limestone guide where they have generally been downgraded and stripped of their stars. Reference to UKC logbooks (and the first ascentionists write-ups) gives a much better idea of the grade and quality these routes. Perhaps we'll get a new A55 Climbs guidebook which will put everything right? roger whetton - 31/Aug/15
Main slab is excellent, especially Map of The Problematique (most memorable sport climb once ever done). Thanks a million to all those who put the hard work in.
IMPORTANT NOTE: Birdman of Mynfford has degraded to a dangerous degree after the main slab (3/4 of the way up). Huge chunks of rock that could easily be pulled off onto the belayer. Seriously needs cleaning up before it's too late. Owen240 - 18/Apr/15
Very enjoyable thanks for all the work that's been put in by the climber's who've done the hard work. The approach from the Sychnant Pass makes a day here very pleasant. jim jones - 03/May/14
Thanks to everyone who has contributed time, effort and money into the new routes. They are all excellent additions and are slowly turning the venue from a slightly obscure footnote into a crag that's well worth visiting. Good work! Dan Hale - 11/Sep/12
A nice little crag with a good range of mid-level grades. Some of the harder routes feel similar to slate due to the bridging moves and nature of the holds. Dan Hale - 11/Mar/12
Surprisingly good. Did the right hand 6a, which is well worth it. Then did the "easy" 4 plus to the left, which was not at all straight forward. Good dry rock, close to the road, but cold after a few hours. Tim Davies - 05/Apr/05