Climbs 68
Rocktype Diorites

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Celt (aged 10) on the First Ascent of 'Y Clip Aur' F6a © Sl@te Head

Crag features

An increasingly popular sport climbing venue which commands spectacular views over the sea towards the Great Orme. Over recent years a good number of well bolted sport climbs have been added across the spread of grades from F2 to F8a.

Stand out routes include 'Slab Tommy Chamonix' 8a, 'The Shouting Stage' E5 6a and 'Map of the Problematique' F6c+

'Lower Level' - An easily accessible and sheltered level with a number of clip ups from F5+ to F7a
'Main Slab' - An impressive 40 metre slab of excellent quality Micro Diorite F6b - F8a + trad E5.
'The Last Butt One Level' - A well positioned level with a really pleasant walk in from the Sychnant Pass + a range of sport clip ups from F2 to F7a.

Approach notes

Last Butt One Level:
Access is best from the Sychnant Pass side (as opposed to the route up from the bottom described in the A55 guide). Park at the Sychnant Pass car park and follow the track to a ford and black gate; continue along the North Wales Path, carrying straight on at a track crossing. At a lone birch tree next to a wooden bench a path leads down to the quarry. Aim for the big flat plateau with a lone brick quarry building

The easier routes on the crag (at least those on the Last Butt One Level)are not well served by the new North Wales Limestone guide where they have generally been downgraded and stripped of their stars. Reference to UKC logbooks (and the first ascentionists write-ups) gives a much better idea of the grade and quality these routes. Perhaps we'll get a new A55 Climbs guidebook which will put everything right?
roger whetton - 31/Aug/15
Main slab is excellent, especially Map of The Problematique (most memorable sport climb once ever done). Thanks a million to all those who put the hard work in. IMPORTANT NOTE: Birdman of Mynfford has degraded to a dangerous degree after the main slab (3/4 of the way up). Huge chunks of rock that could easily be pulled off onto the belayer. Seriously needs cleaning up before it's too late.
Owen240 - 18/Apr/15
Very enjoyable thanks for all the work that's been put in by the climber's who've done the hard work. The approach from the Sychnant Pass makes a day here very pleasant.
jim jones - 03/May/14
Thanks to everyone who has contributed time, effort and money into the new routes. They are all excellent additions and are slowly turning the venue from a slightly obscure footnote into a crag that's well worth visiting. Good work!
Dan Hale - 11/Sep/12
A nice little crag with a good range of mid-level grades. Some of the harder routes feel similar to slate due to the bridging moves and nature of the holds.
Dan Hale - 11/Mar/12
Surprisingly good. Did the right hand 6a, which is well worth it. Then did the "easy" 4 plus to the left, which was not at all straight forward. Good dry rock, close to the road, but cold after a few hours.
Tim Davies - 05/Apr/05
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  the lower quarry
2 Kato 5c * 166
3 The poor route / Catalan 6b+ 3
4 Rambling Jack 6b * 75
5 Hitachi Arete 6a+ ** 112
6 Tricky Dickie 7a ** 58
7 National Disaster 6a * 138
8 Bass 4c 10
9 Samoa 6a * 93
10 Playboys 6a+ * 59
11 A Long Way To Fall 5a 4
12 Crack Climb VD 4
  Main Slab
14 Wiser 6b 4
15 The Birdman of Minffordd 6c+ *** 12
16 The Gruffalo
-
6c+ 2
17 Tommy Chamonix (aka Slab Tommy Chamonix)
-
8a ** 9
18 Wounded Knee 6c (direct start to The Shouting Stage) 6c ** 2
19 The Shouting Stage
-
E5 6a ** 6
20 Map of the Problematique 7a *** 43
21 Puzzle Groove 6b+ ** 24
22 Escape Pod 7a 3
23 Lost in the Ozone 6c+ 2
24 Helvic Wriggle 6a 37
Climb name Grade
25 Multicultural Slab 5b * 33
26 Grandad's Groove 6a+ * 24
27 Linking Crack 6a 28
28 Half-Life 6b+ * 15
29 A New Lease of Life Left Hand Finish 6a+ 2
30 New Lease of Life 6b ** 22
31 A Team of Wild Horses 6b+ * 7
32 Shezurrection 2 6a+ * 25
33 Shezurrection-Balance 6b * 3
34 Work-Life Balance 6b+ * 12
35 CAI 6a+ 5
36 Cnychwr 6a 4
37 Lewys 6b 5
  Level 3
39 Harpo 6c  
40 Groucho 6a+ *  
41 Chico 6b  
42 Zeppo 6a+  
  Last butt one level
44 Pendulum Corner 5b * 86
45 Big A55 ArĂȘte 6a+ * 98
46 Agent Orange 5c 117
47 Smart A55 3a ** 55
48 Jack A55 Slab 4c * 87
Climb name Grade
49 Shakin' that A55 4c 59
50 Silly A55 Arete 6a+ * 39
51 Kick my A55 HS 4b 22
52 Crossbow Crack S 4a 14
53 The Little One 3a 31
54 Easy Peezy Lemon Squeezy 2a 33
55 Happy Slappy 6c * 3
56 Call the 'Trad' Police 4c 43
57 Orange County 7a * 3
58 Easy Peeler 6c+ * 10
59 Prelude to a Pint 6c ** 23
60 The Whole of the Law 6c * 25
61 Hard Times 6c * 4
62 Rejoice 6a+ * 11
63 Uluru Magic 7a * 24
64 Cyber Caff 7c ** 1
65 In the Albion 6b+ * 24
66 Jack the Jeffer 6a * 81
67 A55 hole ArĂȘte 5c * 204
68 Jefferson Slab 6a * 239
69 Y Clip Aur 6a ** 226
70 A55 Crack 6c * 156
71 Kiss my A55 Slab 6c * 53
72 Kiss my A55 Slab (Original Eliminate) 7a ** 12

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