Climbs 60
Rocktype Diorites

Faces N

Celt (aged 10) on the First Ascent of 'Y Clip Aur' F6a © ian Ll-J

Crag features

An increasingly popular sport climbing venue which commands spectacular views over the sea towards the Great Orme. Over recent years a good number of well bolted sport climbs have been added across the spread of grades from F2 to F8a.

Stand out routes include 'Slab Tommy Chamonix' 8a, 'The Shouting Stage' E5 6a and 'Map of the Problematique' F6c+

'Lower Level' - An easily accessible and sheltered level with a number of clip ups from F5+ to F7a

'Main Slab' - An impressive 40 metre slab of excellent quality Micro Diorite F6b - F8a + trad E5.

'The Last Butt One Level' - A well positioned level with a really pleasant walk in from the Sychnant Pass + a range of sport clip ups from F2 to F7a.

Approach notes

Last Butt One Level:

Access is best from the Sychnant Pass side (as opposed to the route up from the bottom described in the A55 guide). Park at the Sychnant Pass car park and follow the track to a ford and black gate; continue along the North Wales Path, carrying straight on at a track crossing. At a lone birch tree next to a wooden bench a path leads down to the quarry. Aim for the big flat plateau with a lone brick quarry building

The easier routes on the crag (at least those on the Last Butt One Level)are not well served by the new North Wales Limestone guide where they have generally been downgraded and stripped of their stars. Reference to UKC logbooks (and the first ascentionists write-ups) gives a much better idea of the grade and quality these routes. Perhaps we'll get a new A55 Climbs guidebook which will put everything right?
roger whetton - 31/Aug/15
Main slab is excellent, especially Map of The Problematique (most memorable sport climb once ever done). Thanks a million to all those who put the hard work in. IMPORTANT NOTE: Birdman of Mynfford has degraded to a dangerous degree after the main slab (3/4 of the way up). Huge chunks of rock that could easily be pulled off onto the belayer. Seriously needs cleaning up before it's too late.
Owen240 - 18/Apr/15
Very enjoyable thanks for all the work that's been put in by the climber's who've done the hard work. The approach from the Sychnant Pass makes a day here very pleasant.
jim jones - 03/May/14
Thanks to everyone who has contributed time, effort and money into the new routes. They are all excellent additions and are slowly turning the venue from a slightly obscure footnote into a crag that's well worth visiting. Good work!
Dan724 - 11/Sep/12
A nice little crag with a good range of mid-level grades. Some of the harder routes feel similar to slate due to the bridging moves and nature of the holds.
Dan724 - 11/Mar/12
Surprisingly good. Did the right hand 6a, which is well worth it. Then did the "easy" 4 plus to the left, which was not at all straight forward. Good dry rock, close to the road, but cold after a few hours.
Tim Davies - 05/Apr/05
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  the lower quarry
2 Kato 5c 136
3 The poor route / Catalan 6b+ 3
4 Rambling Jack 6b 64
5 Hitachi Arete 6a+ 99
6 Tricky Dickie 7a 50
7 National Disaster 6a 114
8 Bass 4c 9
9 Samoa 6a 74
10 Playboys 6a+ 46
11 A Long Way To Fall 5a 4
12 Crack Climb VD 4
  Main Slab
14 Wiser 6b 3
15 The Birdman of Minffordd 6c * 10
16 The Gruffalo
-
6c+ 2
17 Tommy Chamonix (aka Slab Tommy Chamonix)
-
8a ** 6
18 Wounded Knee 6c (direct start to The Shouting Stage) 6c ** 1
19 The Shouting Stage
-
E5 6a ** 5
20 Map of the Problematique 6c+ ** 46
21 Puzzle Groove 6b+ * 13
22 Escape Pod 7a 3
23 Lost in the Ozone 6c+ 1
24 Helvic Wriggle 6a 21
25 Multicultural Slab 5b * 20
26 Grandad's Groove 6a+ 17
27 Linking Crack 6a+ 20
28 Half-Life 6b+ 11
29 A New Lease of Life Left Hand Finish 6a+ 2
30 New Lease of Life 6b * 17
31 A Team of Wild Horses 6b+ * 5
32 Shezurrection 2 6a+ 13
33 Shezurrection-Balance 6b * 3
34 Work-Life Balance 6b+ 9
  Last butt one level
36 Pendulum Corner 5b 64
37 Big A55 Arête 6a+ 77
38 Agent Orange 5c 87
39 Smart A55 3+ 40
40 Jack A55 Slab 4b 56
41 Shakin' that A55 4c 42
42 Silly A55 Arete 6a+ 25
43 Kick my A55 HS 4b 17
44 Crossbow Crack S 4a 12
45 The Little One 3 21
46 Easy Peezy Lemon Squeezy 2 26
47 Happy Slappy 6c 2
48 Call the 'Trad' Police 4c 36
49 Orange County 6c+ 3
50 Easy Peeler 6c+ * 9
51 Prelude to a Pint 6c 21
52 The Whole of the Law 6c * 22
53 Hard Times 6c 4
54 Rejoice 6a+ 6
55 Uluru Magic 6c+ 24
56 In the Albion 6b+ * 21
57 Jack the Jeffer 6a+ 48
58 A55 hole Arête 5a 160
59 Jefferson Slab 5c 192
60 Y Clip Aur 5c 177
61 A55 Crack 6b+ 130
62 Kiss my A55 Slab 6c 52
63 Kiss my A55 Slab (original eliminate) 7a 9

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