Climbs 30
Rocktype Limestone

Faces NW

Crag features

Reasonable quality rock, up to 20m high, with some loose finishes, although abseil stations have been placed. A good summer evening venue for the VS to E2 climber. The best routes are Princess Anne's crack (HVS 5a), Black Holes (VS 4b), and Bibbington Wall (E4 6b). Landscaping work reduced the size of the routes and removed routes 16 to 20 in the Stoney guide.

Approach notes

Known as Victory Quarry on the O.S. map. USE THIS APPROACH (not the one in the guide). Just after the traffic lights as you leave Dove Holes in the direction of Buxton is a minor road on the left (Longridge Lane). Follow this for 0.4 miles to an ungated track leading down to a car parking area by the lake. Walk to the far end of the right-hand (larger lake), towards the landscaped tip. The quarry wall can be seen on the right.

Guidebooks

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 Psychodimbo
-
HVS 5b  
2 Alpinists's Dream
-
VS 4c  
3 Princess Anne's Crack
-
HVS 5a  
4 The Asylum
-
HVS 5b  
5 Mong Attack Crack
-
HVS 5b  
6 Black Holes
-
VS 4b  
7 Absolute Zero
-
HS 4b  
8 Zen and the Art of Moving Horizontally
-
VS 4b  
9 The Warder
-
HVS 5a  
10 Werewolf Crack
-
VS 5a  
11 How Many People who have Worked in Ellis Brighams... VS 4b  
12 One
-
S  
13 Or Prehaps None?
-
VS 4b  
14 Sad Crack
-
VD  
15 The Skull
-
VD 1
16 Niknak
-
VD 1
  Now Buried (for Historical record)
18 Subsidiary Groove
-
VD  
19 The Groove
-
VD  
20 The Magnificent Concept
-
VS 4b  
21 Titbit
-
VD  
  Pond Buttress
23 Springtime Fable
-
VD 1
24 Winter's Tale
-
D 1

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