UKC

Climbs 200
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 370m a.s.l
Faces N

Jordan Buys on Reservoir Dogs (E8 7a) © Alastair Lee - Posingproductions.com

Crag features

Excellent crag with some classic bouldering and some atmospheric routes, located near the Yorkshire Lancashire border, the crag is north facing and can stay damp and green after rain, although not the most quick drying of venues, there is usually a few routes and good boulder problems that will be dry. There is some bouldering on the upper reaches of the crag which drys quicker, due to its proximety to the reservoir it can be rather midge ridden in the summer..... Fight On Black could possibly be the best arete problems in yorkshire and therefore the entire world. Notable routes include resovoir dogs (E8 7a) and Widdop wall (E9 7a)

Approach notes

6 miles east of Burnley and 5 miles north west from Hebden Bridge, from Hebden head towards heptonstall, once past Hepton stall and into a place called slack bottom follow the road for approx 400m then take the small road to the right follow this road (past hardcastle crags on your right) keep going round some sharp corners on a steep hill, carry on driving till the reservoir and crag appear on the left, park at the resvoir carpark and cross the dam to reach the crag on the far side. Dogs must be kept on a lead, no camping or bivvying

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Guidebooks

Northern England

The book is a selected route and crag guide although it still manages to pack over 2350 routes between its covers, spread across 44 crags. The main focus is on routes of all grades from Moderate to E9, but the best bouldering is also described.
More info
The Boulders here are the greatest but they have meant that I have thrown my harness away and ended up bouldering stuff way beyond my leading ability. Excellent for stretching yourself technically the boulders mostly have good fall zones without too many ankle breaking rocks. Bring an old towel to dry your boots off though as it can be wet. Midges are a bit fierce towards end of summer.
Doc Limmer - 10/May/02
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Dam Boulder One
2 Roofless
-
f6A+ * 11
3 Lip Service
-
f7A **  
  Dam Boulder Two
5 Vagrant
-
f6A 4
6 Low Life
-
f6C 2
  Dam Boulder Three
8 Warm Up
-
f5 6
9 Warm Front
-
f5 9
10 Boiling Point
-
f5+ 11
  Dam Boulder Four - Eliminates Boulder
12 Dogger
-
f6A+  
13 Leaning Wall f6B+ * 2
14 Lean Times
-
f6A 4
  Dam Boulder Five
16 The Inbetweeners
-
f6A+  
17 Going Straight
-
f5 2
18 Going Solo
-
f4+  
19 The Uphill Gardener f6C+ ** 1
  Runnel Reagan Boulder
21 Arete Problem
-
f3+ 5
22 Target Practice
-
f2+ 5
  Curving Crack Area
24 Archie's Wall f6C **  
25 Curving Crack f4+ *** 5
26 Curving Crack Arete (Curve Ball) f6A+ *** 6
  Cave Buttress
28 Dessert
-
E2 5b 1
29 Main Course
-
E5 6b *  
30 A Trifle Sweet
-
E2 5c 3
31 Curving Crack
-
VS 5a 27
32 Cave Crack VS 4c * 33
33 Cave Arete
-
E2 5c 4
34 Shadow Play
-
E5 6b ** 9
35 Wickerwork Crack
-
HVS 5b 3
36 Chocolate Starfish
-
HVS 5b  
37 Wickerwork Wall
-
MVS 4b 4
  Mystery Buttress
39 Neptune
-
E2 5c 2
40 Busty's Arete
-
E4 6a *  
41 Scratch 'n' Sniff
-
E3 5c 1
42 The Links Climb
-
HVS 5a * 5
43 The Nature Reserve
-
E2 6a 1
44 Ordinary Route VD ** 172
45 Ordinary Route variation Start VD * 30
46 Birtwistle's Crack VS 4c * 36
47 The Three Cs VS 4c ** 54
48 The Flake Direct E1 5b * 17
49 Krypton Route S 4a * 105
50 Krypton Route - The Flake Finish VS 4b ** 48
51 Krypton Route - The Layback Finish VS 4c * 62
52 Krypton Eliminate E1 5b * 12
53 The Krypton Factor
-
E1 5c 1
54 The Gully D 32
  Above Mystery Buttress
  Fish and Chip Boulder
57 Haddock f5 5
58 Fish f6A+ 2
59 The Chips
-
f6B+ * 4
  Top-Rope Boulder
  The Proposition
62 The Proposition f6C ** 1
  Wrinkled Wall
64 Wrinkley Arete HVS 5a 11
65 Forgotten Crack S 4a * 1
66 Wrinkled Wall Direct VS 4b * 55
67 Wrinkled Wall HVD * 111
68 Oblique Crack
-
D 33
69 Fever
-
E1 5c 4
70 Brinkley Arete
-
E3 6a 2
  CD Area 2 - Brinkley Arete - Fever
72 Brushed for Success
-
f6A+ 2
73 Groovy People f6C *** 5
  The Humps
75 The Humps f6C+ *** 1
76 Speccy Peers f7A  
77 Ard Crack V3  
Climb name Grade
78 Pocket Problem f5  
79 Left Wall V4+ 1
80 Caret and Blue V4+ 3
81 Horror Crack V0-  
82 Turkish Delight V2 7
83 Eastern Promise V1 6
84 Flake Charmer f7A 27
85 Trickster f6A * 13
  Happy Feet
87 Happy Feet
-
f7C+ ** 1
88 Pebble Love V8 1
89 Kaboom V4+  
90 Fissureman's Friend f4+  
91 Dug Out V3  
  Overhang Buttress
93 Hammertime E6 6b * 1
94 The Zig-Zag
-
VD 13
95 Canine Fruitbat E5 6b * 1
96 Felicity HVS 5a 3
97 Ceiling Crack E2 5c ** 13
98 Thirty Seconds Over Winterland E5 6b ** 7
99 Slime Chimney VD 18
100 Slime Chimney Direct Start HVS 5b 5
101 VDiff Crack HVD  
102 Easy Chimney M 22
  Celebrity Buttress
104 Gallon Drunk HVS 5b  
105 Stage Fright E3 6a * 5
106 Celebrity Buttress VS 5a ** 57
107 Libel VS 5a 16
108 Pictures of You
-
E5 6a  
109 Limpet
-
HVS 5b 10
110 Shrimpet
-
HVS 5b 1
  Piton Crack
112 Piton Crack E1 5b * 27
113 Fourty Calorie Cocoa E3 6a  
114 Scuppered HVS 5c 1
115 Mantel Madness E3 6a 5
  Purgatory Buttress
117 Alibi
-
HVS 5b 4
118 Retribution
-
E4 6a 1
119 Pulp Friction E3 6a * 4
120 Argon and the Final Step E3 6a * 1
121 Afternoon Delight E4 6a * 3
122 Sisyphus E5 6a * 1
123 Swift and Sure E5 6b *** 13
124 Artificial Route VS 4c *** 69
125 Purgatory Problem E6 6b ** 4
126 Purgatory Chimney VD * 22
127 Reservoir Dogs E8 7a *** 3
128 Widdop Wall E9 7a ***  
  The Kidney Boulder - Red Rose Boulder
130 Zorro The Gay Blade f6A 18
131 Going Mantel f6A+ 16
132 Going Mantel SDS
-
V7  
133 Cannonball V4+  
134 Corn Flake f6B+ 21
135 The Red Rose f6C+ 9
136 Red Rose SDS
-
V8+  
137 Walkabout V6 1
138 Shin Splint V4  
  Plantation Boulders
  Block 1 (5) - Low Block
141 Block 1, Problem 1
-
VB 4c 52
142 Block 1 Problem 2 V0 5a 33
143 Mo f5+ 17
144 Larry f5+ 20
145 Curly f5 11
146 The Boss
-
f3+ 43
147 Bruce (low block) f3+ 12
148 The Stooges (low block) f2+ 14
149 Iggy Pop
-
f3+ 35
150 Ernie
-
f4 34
151 Eric ( low block) f4 9
152 Block 1 Problem 9
-
VB 5a 24
153 The Full 360 f6A *** 3
Climb name Grade
  Block 2 (6) - Fight On Black
155 Ant f6C 1
156 Hurricane f7A+ ** 44
157 Splashdown f6B ** 154
158 Pot Black f6C 16
159 Block 2 (6) problem 3 f6C 6
160 Fight on the Black f7B *** 59
161 Fight on Black SS f7C * 1
162 Knocked About V5 6b ** 3
163 The Shelf
-
f6B 78
164 Block 2 Problem 9
-
V0 5b 14
165 Hallo Little Lady f4+ 42
166 Deck
-
f6C 19
167 Block 2 problem 12 V3 6a 13
  Block 3 Boozers Slab (7) - Pickpockets Boulder
169 Little Swimmers f5 15
170 Pool Direct f6A+ 20
171 Pool Traverse
-
f6B+ * 179
172 The Big Top
-
f6A ** 20
173 Block 3, Problem 2 f4 37
174 Pick Pocket's Wall
-
f6A+ * 152
175 Pick Pocket's Crack
-
f6A+ * 216
176 Fagin's Ridge f5 * 186
177 Block 3 Problem 7 f3 108
178 Block 3 Problem 7a f3 56
179 Mild
-
f2+ 124
180 Bitter
-
f3+ 105
181 Stout
-
f5 61
182 Block 3 Problem 11
-
VB 5a 40
183 Block 3 problem 12
-
VB 52
184 Block 3, Problem 13
-
VB 3a 56
185 Lager f6A * 14
186 Slab Traverse (Pickpocket) f3+ 5
  Block 4 (8) - 4 Square
188 Hare
-
f6A+ 27
189 Rabbit f6B * 8
190 Corner Crack
-
f3 37
191 Pebble Slab
-
f4+ 33
192 Spice f3+ 91
193 Pebble Without A Cause f6B 23
194 Pocket Problem (4 Square)
-
f4+ 9
195 Get Shorty f5+ 113
196 Block 4, Problem 12 f5+ 78
197 Four Square f6A+ ** 100
198 Hole Lot of Love f5 14
  Block 5 (9) - Red Edge
200 Red Edge Left Eliminate V3 5c+ 31
201 Red Edge Left
-
f5+ 251
202 Red Edge Traverse f6B+ * 30
203 Red Edge Right
-
f5+ ** 266
  Block 6 (10) - Umpleby's Arete
205 Block 6, Problem 2 V1 5c 7
206 Landlord
-
f4+ 25
207 Runnel for your Life f5+ 6
208 The North Face f5+ * 15
209 The Big Crack f3+ ** 33
210 Umpleby's Arete f5 *** 63
211 The Offwidth (The Hurt Locker) f3+ * 29
212 Block 6, Problem 12 V5 6b 7
213 Pebble Wall
-
f6C+ *** 5
214 Fortune Cookie
-
f2+ 31
215 Reggie f3+ 28
216 Ronnie
-
f3 35
217 Block 6, Problem 17
-
VB 5a 13
  Block 7 (11) - Seventh Wave
219 System 7 f6B+ 11
220 Seven Steps To Heaven
-
f6A 23
221 The Seventh Wave f6C ** 19
222 Magic Number
-
f5 10
223 Seventh Heaven
-
f5 14
224 Seven Deadly Sins f5 * 17
225 Sin Bin f4+ 13
226 Block 7, Problem 8
-
VB 4c 4
  Grumpy Old Men
228 Grumpy Old Men f6A * 2
  Tillie's Traverse
  waiting

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