Climbs 200
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 370m a.s.l
Faces N

Jordan Buys on Reservoir Dogs (E8 7a) © Alastair Lee - Posingproductions.com

Crag features

5 Guidebooks with different names for all the Boulders!!!!

Nightmare

I have stuck with Names and Numbers from Yorkshire Gritstone and Leeds wall Mini guide (Cameron-Duff guide numbers in brackets) Good Luck

One of the few crags in Britain to go all the way up the grade scale. Also offers excellent bouldering. Its north-facing nature can leave it green in winter.

Approach notes

Obvious access from parking spaces by the adjacent reservoir. To get to Widdop Drums just keep driving to the other end to a layby. Park and follow the path back towards Widdop and they are on your right.

Guidebooks

Northern England

The book is a selected route and crag guide although it still manages to pack over 2350 routes between its covers, spread across 44 crags. The main focus is on routes of all grades from Moderate to E9, but the best bouldering is also described.
More info
The Boulders here are the greatest but they have meant that I have thrown my harness away and ended up bouldering stuff way beyond my leading ability. Excellent for stretching yourself technically the boulders mostly have good fall zones without too many ankle breaking rocks. Bring an old towel to dry your boots off though as it can be wet. Midges are a bit fierce towards end of summer.
Doc Limmer - 10/May/02
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Dam Boulder One
2 Roofless
-
f6A+ * 11
3 Lip Service
-
f7A **  
  Dam Boulder Two
5 Vagrant
-
f6A 4
6 Low Life
-
f6C 2
  Dam Boulder Three
8 Warm Up
-
f5 6
9 Warm Front
-
f5 8
10 Boiling Point
-
f5+ 10
  Dam Boulder Four - Eliminates Boulder
12 Dogger
-
f6A+  
13 Leaning Wall f6B+ * 2
14 Lean Times
-
f6A 4
  Dam Boulder Five
16 The Inbetweeners
-
f6A+  
17 Going Straight
-
f5 2
18 Going Solo
-
f4+  
19 The Uphill Gardener f6C+ ** 1
  Runnel Reagan Boulder
21 Arete Problem
-
f3+ 3
22 Target Practice
-
f2+ 3
  Curving Crack Area
24 Archie's Wall f6C **  
25 Curving Crack f4+ *** 5
26 Curving Crack Arete (Curve Ball) f6A+ *** 6
  Cave Buttress
28 Dessert
-
E2 5b 1
29 Main Course
-
E5 6b *  
30 A Trifle Sweet
-
E2 5c 2
31 Curving Crack
-
VS 5a 23
32 Cave Crack VS 4c * 31
33 Cave Arete
-
E2 5c 4
34 Shadow Play
-
E5 6b ** 14
35 Wickerwork Crack
-
HVS 5b 3
36 Chocolate Starfish
-
HVS 5b  
37 Wickerwork Wall
-
MVS 4b 4
  Mystery Buttress
39 Neptune
-
E2 5c 2
40 Busty's Arete
-
E4 6a *  
41 Scratch 'n' Sniff
-
E3 5c 1
42 The Links Climb
-
HVS 5a * 5
43 The Nature Reserve
-
E2 6a 1
44 Ordinary Route VD ** 172
45 Ordinary Route variation Start VD * 26
46 Birtwistle's Crack VS 4c * 32
47 The Three Cs VS 4c ** 47
48 The Flake Direct E1 5b * 14
49 Krypton Route S 4a * 98
50 Krypton Route - The Flake Finish VS 4b ** 49
51 Krypton Route - The Layback Finish VS 4c * 59
52 Krypton Eliminate E1 5b * 12
53 The Krypton Factor
-
E1 5c 1
54 The Gully D 31
  Above Mystery Buttress
  Fish and Chip Boulder
57 Haddock f5 3
58 Fish f6A+ 2
59 The Chips
-
f6B+ * 4
  Top-Rope Boulder
  The Proposition
62 The Proposition f6C ** 1
  Wrinkled Wall
64 Wrinkley Arete HVS 5a 10
65 Wrinkled Wall Direct VS 4b * 47
66 Wrinkled Wall HVD * 103
67 Oblique Crack
-
D 30
68 Fever
-
E1 5c 3
69 Brinkley Arete
-
E3 6a 2
  CD Area 2 - Brinkley Arete - Fever
71 Brushed for Success
-
f6A+ 2
72 Groovy People f6C *** 5
  The Humps
74 The Humps f6C+ *** 1
75 Speccy Peers f7A  
76 Ard Crack V3  
77 Pocket Problem f5  
78 Left Wall V4+ 1
79 Caret and Blue V4+ 3
80 Horror Crack V0-  
81 Turkish Delight V2 5
82 Eastern Promise V1 5
83 Flake Charmer f7A 24
84 Trickster f6A * 11
  Happy Feet
86 Happy Feet
-
f7C+ ** 1
87 Pebble Love V8 1
88 Kaboom V4+  
89 Fissureman's Friend f4+  
90 Dug Out V3  
  Overhang Buttress
92 Hammertime E6 6b * 1
93 The Zig-Zag
-
VD 13
94 Canine Fruitbat E5 6b * 1
95 Felicity HVS 5a 3
96 Ceiling Crack E2 5c ** 11
97 Thirty Seconds Over Winterland E5 6b ** 12
98 Slime Chimney VD 18
99 Slime Chimney Direct Start HVS 5b 5
100 VDiff Crack HVD  
101 Easy Chimney M 19
  Celebrity Buttress
103 Gallon Drunk HVS 5b  
104 Stage Fright E3 6a * 5
105 Celebrity Buttress VS 5a ** 58
106 Libel VS 5a 14
107 Pictures of You
-
E5 6a  
108 Limpet
-
HVS 5b 10
109 Shrimpet
-
HVS 5b 1
  Piton Crack
111 Piton Crack E1 5b * 28
112 Fourty Calorie Cocoa E3 6a  
113 Scuppered HVS 5c 1
114 Mantel Madness E3 6a 5
  Purgatory Buttress
116 Alibi
-
HVS 5b 4
117 Retribution
-
E4 6a 1
118 Pulp Friction E3 6a * 4
119 Argon and the Final Step E3 6a * 1
120 Afternoon Delight E4 6a * 4
121 Sisyphus E5 6a * 1
122 Swift and Sure E5 6b *** 20
123 Artificial Route VS 4c *** 76
124 Purgatory Problem E6 6b ** 4
125 Purgatory Chimney VD * 22
126 Reservoir Dogs E8 7a *** 3
127 Widdop Wall E9 7a ***  
  The Kidney Boulder - Red Rose Boulder
129 Zorro The Gay Blade f6A 18
130 Going Mantel f6A+ 15
131 Going Mantel SDS
-
V7  
132 Cannonball V4+  
133 Corn Flake f6B+ 20
134 The Red Rose f6C+ 9
135 Red Rose SDS
-
V8+  
136 Walkabout V6 1
137 Shin Splint V4  
  Plantation Boulders
  Block 1 (5) - Low Block
140 Block 1, Problem 1
-
VB 4c 52
141 Block 1 Problem 2 V0 5a 33
142 Mo f5+ 16
143 Larry f5+ 20
144 Curly f5 11
145 The Boss
-
f3+ 35
146 Bruce (low block) f3+ 4
147 The Stooges (low block) f2+ 7
148 Iggy Pop
-
f3+ 32
149 Ernie
-
f4 31
150 Eric ( low block) f4 6
151 Block 1 Problem 9
-
VB 5a 23
152 The Full 360 f6A *** 3
  Block 2 (6) - Fight On Black
154 Ant f6C 1
155 Hurricane f7A+ ** 43
156 Splashdown f6B ** 149
157 Pot Black f6C 12
158 Block 2 (6) problem 3 f6C 6
159 Fight on the Black f7B ** 64
160 Fight on Black SS f7C *** 1
161 Knocked About V5 6b ** 3
162 The Shelf
-
f6B 77
163 Block 2 Problem 9
-
V0 5b 14
164 Hallo Little Lady f4+ 37
165 Deck
-
f6C 19
166 Block 2 problem 12 V3 6a 13
  Block 3 Boozers Slab (7) - Pickpockets Boulder
168 Little Swimmers f5 15
169 Pool Direct f6A+ 19
170 Pool Traverse
-
f6B+ * 176
171 The Big Top
-
f6A ** 18
172 Block 3, Problem 2 f4 35
173 Pick Pocket's Wall
-
f6A+ * 153
174 Pick Pocket's Crack
-
f6A+ * 209
175 Fagin's Ridge f5 * 178
176 Block 3 Problem 7 f3 100
177 Block 3 Problem 7a f3 49
178 Mild
-
f2+ 116
179 Bitter
-
f3+ 96
180 Stout
-
f5 54
181 Block 3 Problem 11
-
VB 5a 38
182 Block 3 problem 12
-
VB 49
183 Block 3, Problem 13
-
VB 3a 53
184 Lager f6A * 13
185 Slab Traverse (Pickpocket) f3+ 5
  Block 4 (8) - 4 Square
187 Hare
-
f6A+ 27
188 Rabbit f6B * 8
189 Corner Crack
-
f3 35
190 Pebble Slab
-
f4+ 31
191 Spice f3+ 82
192 Pebble Without A Cause f6B 21
193 Pocket Problem (4 Square)
-
f4+ 7
194 Get Shorty f5+ 102
195 Block 4, Problem 12 f5+ 75
196 Four Square f6A+ ** 97
197 Hole Lot of Love f5 14
  Block 5 (9) - Red Edge
199 Red Edge Left Eliminate V3 5c+ 31
200 Red Edge Left
-
f5+ 228
201 Red Edge Traverse f6B+ * 22
202 Red Edge Right
-
f5+ ** 245
  Block 6 (10) - Umpleby's Arete
204 Block 6, Problem 2 V1 5c 7
205 Landlord
-
f4+ 22
206 Runnel for your Life f5+ 6
207 The North Face f5+ * 15
208 The Big Crack f3+ ** 33
209 Umpleby's Arete f5 *** 67
210 The Offwidth (The Hurt Locker) f3+ * 29
211 Block 6, Problem 12 V5 6b 7
212 Pebble Wall
-
f6C+ 4
213 Fortune Cookie
-
f2+ 30
214 Reggie f3+ 25
215 Ronnie
-
f3 32
216 Block 6, Problem 17
-
VB 5a 13
  Block 7 (11) - Seventh Wave
218 System 7 f6B+ 11
219 Seven Steps To Heaven
-
f6A 23
220 The Seventh Wave f6C 18
221 Magic Number
-
f5 10
222 Seventh Heaven
-
f5 14
223 Seven Deadly Sins f5 * 16
224 Sin Bin f4+ 12
225 Block 7, Problem 8
-
VB 4c 4
  Grumpy Old Men
227 Grumpy Old Men f6A * 2
  Tillie's Traverse
  waiting

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