Climbs 46
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 220m a.s.l
Faces SW

Worth a star. Well worthwhile. © Simon2005

Crag features

As with a lot of trad Limestone, some of the rock is loose and dubious quality. Some of the low quality rock is obvious and other sections of loose rock are less obvious due to the large size of the blocks. Having climbed for 12 years in the UK and greater ranges I was disappointed to pull off a 1m+ sized block from Grandad (S**) (having climbed it earlier) when I was escaping from the VS to the side due to it's loose rock. This resulted in a 'life changing' badly broken ankle and excellent rescue from Clapham DCRO. I would hate for anybody else to suffer the same fate and suggest that somebody inspects the top of the crag as I suspect there are more 'sections' of the crag that are unstable and difficult to read, as well as the obviously loose rock. Perhaps this crag would make a better nature reserve.

Approach notes

Access from parking spaces on the outskirts of Austwick. The guidebook gives directions which must be followed to avoid crossing walls.

Guidebooks

The comment about the loose rock in the crag overview seems a little excessive to me. I visited on 14/10/16, there is some loose rock which requires care but no worse than many other limestone crags. Don't be put off, just be careful. There are some pleasant routes in a lovely setting.
Dave Kerr - 16/Oct/16
Went up to the crag last saturday perfect weather just really cold lovley crag dont know why i didnt go there before then some good routes mid grade Great Views
nofearnolimits - 15/Nov/04
Climbed here in December (2003) when there was a cold north easterly wind. The crag was perfectly sheltered. Pleasant quiet crag with beautiful outlook towards Ingleborough. Bullroar, a steep wide crack line, is probably classic of the crag and feels pretty strenuous for the grade in the first 6m.
RichT - 09/Dec/03
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 Flakation
-
VS 4c * 5
2 Flexor
-
VS 5a 1
3 Flake Cracks
-
VD * 22
4 Hanging Corner
-
HS 4a 9
5 Scoop
-
S 3
6 The Link
-
MVS 4b 1
7 White Wall
-
S 4a 76
8 Twin Cracks
-
HS 4a * 38
9 Crossroads Buttress
-
HS 4b ** 65
10 Bullroar
-
VS 5a ** 43
11 Great Flake Left
-
VS 5a 6
12 Great Flake Right MVS 4b * 15
13 Stepfather
-
VS 5a * 9
14 Grandad
-
S 4a ** 100
15 Pipsqueak
-
HVS 5b ** 19
16 Popinjay
-
HVS 5a 3
17 Papa Doc
-
HVS 5b 3
18 Burnt Norton
-
HS 4a 39
19 Coker
-
VD * 90
20 Little Gidding
-
VD * 81
21 Aero Ethics
-
HVS 5b  
22 Salvages
-
HVD 35
23 The Stealer
-
VS 5a * 8
24 Muted Wall
-
VS 5a 7
25 Digitational Mutation
-
E3 6b * 2
26 Touchwood
-
E2 6a 1
27 Zeppelin
-
E1 5c * 3
28 Once And Future
-
E2 6a 1
29 Blade Runner
-
E3 6a * 1
30 Morris Man
-
VS 5a 1
31 Curving Crack
-
HVS 5a 2
32 Gangway Rib
-
HVS 5a * 2
33 Gangway
-
VD 6
34 Jill
-
VS 4c * 5
35 Advance Warning HVS 5a 1
36 The Apex
-
S 2
37 Rhinose
-
VS 5a 2
38 Nice
-
S * 15
39 Father's Day
-
E2 6a  
40 Green Wall
-
MVS 4b ** 14
41 Yellow Flake
-
MVS 4b 3
42 Off Colour
-
S 4
43 The Ox
-
HVS 5a *  
44 Mahout
-
E1 5c * 4
45 Buffalo Rib
-
HVS 5a 2
46 The Calf
-
S 7

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