Climbs 67
Rocktype Gneiss

Faces S

Crag features

Most of the climbs are on a south-facing clean white wall. Hanging belays off an abseil rope are the best way to lead these climbs as the ledge at the bottom slopes into the sea.
Most routes can be climbed at high tide in calm conditions using the aforementioned hanging belays.

Approach notes

No bird restrictions, although many seagulls nest in the area. Ask the GMC to show you the best way down. The approach descent is fine in shorts :-)

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Stacks
2 High Steppa HS 4b 1
3 Biarritz HVS 5a  
4 Common Sense S 1
5 Nonsense HVS 5a  
6 Senseless HVS 5a  
7 New Worlds M  
8 The Underworld S  
9 Rogue's Gallery VS 4c  
10 The Godfather HVS 5b  
11 Close Encounter S 1
  Venus Pool Cove
13 Softly, Softly VS 4b  
14 The Lost Cord HVS 5a  
15 Fool's Mate S  
16 Gambit HVS 5a  
17 Stalemate HVS 5b  
18 Javelin Arete HS 4b  
19 The Broken Lance S  
20 Skirmish S **  
21 War Machine HVS 5a  
22 Cavalry Groove D  
23 The Retreat M  
24 The Scoop VD  
25 Headlines VD  
26 Headlines : Direct finish VD *  
27 Paladin HS 4b **  
28 Edgeway S  
29 Cossack Wall VS 4b  
  Boulder Wall
31 Just for The Crack E1 5b  
32 Squall VS 5a  
33 Kittiwake HS 4b  
34 Trustin
-
HS 4b  
35 Crispin
-
HVS 4c  
36 Canine Holiday HVS 5a * 2
37 Slowburn HVS 5a 2
38 Spike E1 5b  
39 Chalcedony
-
VS 4b 1
40 Quicksilver
-
VS 5a ** 1
41 Wonderland HVS 5a  
42 Fool's Gold
-
VS 5a  
43 The Islanders HS 4b 1
44 Taylor's Redemption D 2
45 Space Cadet HS 4a 1
46 Streetwalker D 2
47 A Triumph for Education HVS 5a  
48 Streetwise S 1
49 Freeway D 2
50 Freetime HS 4b 1
51 Brisket VS 4c 2
52 Gear Frenzy VD 1
53 Another VD 1
54 Ignominous D  
  Overlap Slab
56 Slab Left-hand VS 4c  
57 Directissima HVS 4c  
58 Desolation Row VS 4c  
59 Calanda VS 4c  
60 Widdershins
-
S 4a  
61 Slip Slidin' Away
-
VS 4b  
62 High Noon
-
S  
  50 Yards East
64 Zoanthropist Groove
-
HVS 4c  
65 Sigma
-
HS 4b  
66 Omicron
-
HVS 5a  
67 Pronto
-
HVS 5a  
68 Shenanigan
-
HVS 5a  
69 Valentino
-
HVS 5a  
70 Brinkmanship
-
VS 4c  
71 Domino Wall
-
HVS 4c  
72 Pianissimo
-
VS 4c  
  Unsorted climbs

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