On the other side of the valley and well hidden from the main crag at Taff's Well is a series of old quarried walls that contain some good sport climbs. The style varies from slabs to slightly overhanging featured walls and all the routes are technical. Although most of the walls apart fro the slabs are enclosed and shady, the climbing is well-worth searching out in the right conditions.
As for Taffs Well (East) to the roundabout below that crag, then turn left to Radyr, then right at next roundabout. 0.5mi further on the left is a blocked quarry track. Park in small housing estate on the right (gwaelod-Y-Garth, Heol Berry).
Take faint path up through woods to a good track: follow to small pinnacle with crag behind. Best to get there early to avoid parking problems. This is due to the fact that people leave there vehicles there while they go off to work. Does get very busy!!!!!
Reports of climbers being told to leave by security staff from the quarry and stating that they will be removing the bolts form this venue. BMC are investigating.
The owners of the site (Cemex Ltd) have approached the BMC to advise that this crag is within and forms part of a larger site that is an active and working quarry. They are legally bound by the Quarries Regulations 1999 to ensure that they take appropriate steps to prevent public access to the site, and have requested the BMC to inform climbers that climbing is not allowed at this site. Discussions with Cemex are ongoing to attempt to resolve this situation, but in the meantime climbers are advised to maintain a low profile and if asked to leave to comply with Cemex staff's requests.
Last update: 08/11/2017
Get the BMC RAD app
Available in the Rockfax App
The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Android and iOS devices.
South Wales Sport Climbs covers the area to the south of the Brecon Beacons, spanning the land and sea cliffs from the River Wye on the Welsh border to Pembrokeshire in the west. The area is home to a wealth of sport climbing on a multitude of venues ranging from small inland quarries to extensive limestone sea cliffs.
looks like a treefall has put the slab area out of action! gobbledigook - 17/Aug/15
Love this crag. It takes some drying out and and is a little dingy but the climbing is great. Wonderful angular quarried rock makes for technical climbing requiring body tension, balance, and sometimes a bit of thuggery. Giles Davis - 23/Aug/14
Does anyone know if there is good top- and bottom-roping at this crag? I have just started climbing outdoors and have not learned to lead yet. Thanks. marcjospeh - 07/May/14
a nice quiet venue, ideal on a very hot day as it is shaded. Some of the routes were a little sandy / dirty so a bit more traffic could be required. Interesting to climb though! hms - 12/Jul/13
Now almost completely rebolted and clean. The north wall is the showpiece of the crag. Needs moderating but updates are available on swmc wiki. alan rosier - 27/May/10
The path leading from the road starts just to the right of the large gravel track and is marked by a public footpath sign. Dont take the gravel track Billg - 10/Oct/09
This is an absolutaly amazing grag which offers some fantatic multi pitch routes as well as some very scary trad routes i highly recomend climbing here to everyone jcj - 06/Mar/07
The map ref is miles out. This crag is nowhere near Newtown! timjones - 19/Mar/06
The book describes it as going Right, diagonally to the nose. I've finished up the arete above and left on several occasions, shorter but exposed and less vegetated and having poor rock. All slightly academic as Pine Tree is on Taff's Well Main, an entirely different crag across the valley from TW West which is an exclusively single pitch, sports crag. And it's not in Powys, It's on the edge of Cardiff so this database entry is somewhat flawed! Mattress - 13/Jul/05
The route shown in the photo is wrong. The climb goes up the blunt rib, left to the bottom of the groove and up this to the tree. The climb finishes further left out and up the prominent nose - highlight of the climb! ALAN PIKE - 07/Sep/04