Climbs 55
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 100m a.s.l
Faces N

Bristol beat 7a (2stars) - Taffs well west © jon clayton

Crag features

Tends to stay wet after heavy rain; can be vegetated. Essentially a sports crag. Pitches up to 24m.

Re-bolted in 2010 although looks and feels very new providing a good sports climbing venue. Similar in scale and type as The Roadside Crags at Dinas Rock .

ST 12150 82869

Approach notes

As for Taffs Well (East) to the roundabout below that crag, then turn L to Radyr, then R at next roundabout. 0.5mi further on the L is a blocked quarry track. Park in small housing estate on the R (gwaelod-Y-Garth, Heol Berry).
Take faint path up through woods to a good track: follow to small pinnacle with crag behind.Best to get there early to avoid parking problems.This is due to the fact that people leave there vehicles there while they go off to work.Does get very busy!!!!!

Access Advice

The owners of the site (Cemex Ltd) have approached the BMC to advise that this crag is within and forms part of a larger site that is an active and working quarry. They are legally bound by the Quarries Regulations 1999 to ensure that they take appropriate steps to prevent public access to the site, and have requested the BMC to inform climbers that climbing is not allowed at this site. Discussions with Cemex are ongoing to attempt to resolve this situation, but in the meantime climbers are advised to maintain a low profile and if asked to leave to comply with Cemex staff's requests.

Guidebooks

South Wales Sport Climbs

South Wales Sport Climbs covers the area to the south of the Brecon Beacons, spanning the land and sea cliffs from the River Wye on the Welsh border to Pembrokeshire in the west. The area is home to a wealth of sport climbing on a multitude of venues ranging from small inland quarries to extensive limestone sea cliffs.
More info
looks like a treefall has put the slab area out of action!
gobbledigook - 17/Aug/15
Love this crag. It takes some drying out and and is a little dingy but the climbing is great. Wonderful angular quarried rock makes for technical climbing requiring body tension, balance, and sometimes a bit of thuggery.
Giles Davis - 23/Aug/14
Does anyone know if there is good top- and bottom-roping at this crag? I have just started climbing outdoors and have not learned to lead yet. Thanks.
marcjospeh - 07/May/14
a nice quiet venue, ideal on a very hot day as it is shaded. Some of the routes were a little sandy / dirty so a bit more traffic could be required. Interesting to climb though!
hms - 12/Jul/13
Now almost completely rebolted and clean. The north wall is the showpiece of the crag. Needs moderating but updates are available on swmc wiki.
alan rosier - 27/May/10
The path leading from the road starts just to the right of the large gravel track and is marked by a public footpath sign. Dont take the gravel track
Billg - 10/Oct/09
This is an absolutaly amazing grag which offers some fantatic multi pitch routes as well as some very scary trad routes i highly recomend climbing here to everyone
jcj - 06/Mar/07
The map ref is miles out. This crag is nowhere near Newtown!
timjones - 19/Mar/06
The book describes it as going Right, diagonally to the nose. I've finished up the arete above and left on several occasions, shorter but exposed and less vegetated and having poor rock. All slightly academic as Pine Tree is on Taff's Well Main, an entirely different crag across the valley from TW West which is an exclusively single pitch, sports crag. And it's not in Powys, It's on the edge of Cardiff so this database entry is somewhat flawed!
Mattress - 13/Jul/05
The route shown in the photo is wrong. The climb goes up the blunt rib, left to the bottom of the groove and up this to the tree. The climb finishes further left out and up the prominent nose - highlight of the climb!
ALAN PIKE - 07/Sep/04
Login as Existing User to add your comments

Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  The Outer Pit
2 Clart's Free Dragon Taxi Ride to Visit Nan Hussein 5a 16
3 Affluenza 5c 11
4 Honeybucket Supreme 5b 27
5 Faster! Pussycat 5c 38
6 Tinkers Dog 6a * 40
7 Full Metal Jacket 6a+ * 54
8 Any Old Iron 6c ** 42
9 Rag And Bone 6b+ ** 83
10 Wreckers ball 6a * 89
11 Knackers yard 6a+ * 100
12 Landfill Tax 6a * 102
13 Sustainable Development 5c 112
14 Industrial Salvage 5c 82
15 Iron Foundry VB ** 3
  North Wall
17 Squeeze for cream 4c 5
18 The Creaming Dream 6c * 16
19 Ice Scream Sunday 7a+ * 8
20 Scream For Cream 7a+ ** 16
21 G.L.C SAF 7b ** 19
22 Trailblazer 7b *** 24
23 Sink or Swim 7a+ ** 23
24 Security Plus 7b * 11
25 Give It Some Belly 7b  
26 Norman Normal 7a ** 38
27 Give it Some Wellie 6c 12
28 All's Well 6b * 51
29 Bitter End 6c 17
30 Adam Hussein's Nan 6b 9
31 Taffy Duck 6c ** 1
  The Back Wall
33 Crooked Little Pinky 6b+ ** 4
34 Bulging Sack 4c *** 2
35 Rain Dogs 7a * 1
36 The Quartz Bicycle 7a  
37 You Never Can Tell 7a * 1
38 Party Animal 7a+ * 4
39 Palm Springs E5  
40 A Million Destinies E5  
41 Lame To Fame Start 4c *** 1
42 Stay Hungry 7a+ 1
43 Bags oF Fun 4b *** 2
44 Digitorum Brevis 7c **  
  Diamond Wall
46 Bristol Beat 7a * 47
47 Streaming Neutrinos 7b+ ** 20
48 It's a Black World 7a+ ** 30
49 Howling Hadrons 6b * 23
  The Slabs
51 The Boney King of Nowhere 5a 26
52 The Boney King of Nowhere Direct 6a * 4
53 Once Upon a Time 6a * 45
54 Can The Can 6c * 16
55 Palm 7a ** 15
56 Neil Kinnock's Last Stand 7a+ ** 10
57 Chinese Whispers 6c+ * 30
58 Glenys Encounters her First Limp Member 6a 42
  The Pinnacle
60 Clair de Lune 6a * 93
61 Mare Tranquilis 5a 83

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer devo