Climbs 59
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 100m a.s.l
Faces N

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Bristol beat 7a (2stars) - Taffs well west © jon clayton

Crag features

On the other side of the valley and well hidden from the main crag at Taff's Well is a series of old quarried walls that contain some good sport climbs. The style varies from slabs to slightly overhanging featured walls and all the routes are technical. Although most of the walls apart fro the slabs are enclosed and shady, the climbing is well-worth searching out in the right conditions.

Approach notes

As for Taffs Well (East) to the roundabout below that crag, then turn left to Radyr, then right at next roundabout. 0.5mi further on the left is a blocked quarry track. Park in small housing estate on the right (gwaelod-Y-Garth, Heol Berry).
Take faint path up through woods to a good track: follow to small pinnacle with crag behind. Best to get there early to avoid parking problems. This is due to the fact that people leave there vehicles there while they go off to work. Does get very busy!!!!!

Restricted Access

November 2017 update

Reports of climbers being told to leave by security staff from the quarry and stating that they will be removing the bolts form this venue. BMC are investigating.

The owners of the site (Cemex Ltd) have approached the BMC to advise that this crag is within and forms part of a larger site that is an active and working quarry. They are legally bound by the Quarries Regulations 1999 to ensure that they take appropriate steps to prevent public access to the site, and have requested the BMC to inform climbers that climbing is not allowed at this site. Discussions with Cemex are ongoing to attempt to resolve this situation, but in the meantime climbers are advised to maintain a low profile and if asked to leave to comply with Cemex staff's requests.

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Guidebooks

South Wales Sport Climbs

South Wales Sport Climbs covers the area to the south of the Brecon Beacons, spanning the land and sea cliffs from the River Wye on the Welsh border to Pembrokeshire in the west. The area is home to a wealth of sport climbing on a multitude of venues ranging from small inland quarries to extensive limestone sea cliffs.
More info
looks like a treefall has put the slab area out of action!
gobbledigook - 17/Aug/15
Love this crag. It takes some drying out and and is a little dingy but the climbing is great. Wonderful angular quarried rock makes for technical climbing requiring body tension, balance, and sometimes a bit of thuggery.
Giles Davis - 23/Aug/14
Does anyone know if there is good top- and bottom-roping at this crag? I have just started climbing outdoors and have not learned to lead yet. Thanks.
marcjospeh - 07/May/14
a nice quiet venue, ideal on a very hot day as it is shaded. Some of the routes were a little sandy / dirty so a bit more traffic could be required. Interesting to climb though!
hms - 12/Jul/13
Now almost completely rebolted and clean. The north wall is the showpiece of the crag. Needs moderating but updates are available on swmc wiki.
alan rosier - 27/May/10
The path leading from the road starts just to the right of the large gravel track and is marked by a public footpath sign. Dont take the gravel track
Billg - 10/Oct/09
This is an absolutaly amazing grag which offers some fantatic multi pitch routes as well as some very scary trad routes i highly recomend climbing here to everyone
jcj - 06/Mar/07
The map ref is miles out. This crag is nowhere near Newtown!
timjones - 19/Mar/06
The book describes it as going Right, diagonally to the nose. I've finished up the arete above and left on several occasions, shorter but exposed and less vegetated and having poor rock. All slightly academic as Pine Tree is on Taff's Well Main, an entirely different crag across the valley from TW West which is an exclusively single pitch, sports crag. And it's not in Powys, It's on the edge of Cardiff so this database entry is somewhat flawed!
Mattress - 13/Jul/05
The route shown in the photo is wrong. The climb goes up the blunt rib, left to the bottom of the groove and up this to the tree. The climb finishes further left out and up the prominent nose - highlight of the climb!
ALAN PIKE - 07/Sep/04
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  The Slabs
2 The Boney King of Nowhere 5a 26
3 The Boney King of Nowhere Direct 6a * 11
4 Once Upon a Time 6a * 55
5 Can the Can 6c * 24
6 Palm 7a ** 19
7 Neil Kinnock's Last Stand 7a+ ** 10
8 Chinese Whispers 6c+ * 30
9 Glenys Encounters Her First Limp Member 6a 50
  The Pinnacle and Diamond Wall
11 Clair de Lune 6a * 117
12 Mare Tranquilis 5a 106
13 South ArĂȘte D 1
14 Bristol Beat 7a * 64
15 Streaming Neutrinos 7b+ ** 30
16 Singularity 7c * 3
17 Dark Matter 7b ** 8
18 It's a Black World 7a+ ** 39
19 Howling Hadrons 6b * 34
20 Doesn't Matter 7b+ ** 1
  Back Wall
22 Bulging Sack 4c *** 2
Climb name Grade
23 Crooked Little Pinky 6b+ ** 5
24 Raindogs 7a * 2
25 The Quartz Bicycle 7a 2
26 Party Animal 7a+ * 4
27 You Never Can Tell 7a * 2
28 Palm Springs E5 1
29 A Million Destinies E5  
30 Lame to Fame Start 4c *** 1
31 Stay Hungry 7a+ 2
32 Bags of Fun 4b *** 3
33 Digitorum Brevis 7c **  
  North Wall
35 Squeeze for Cream 4c 13
36 The Creaming Dream 6c * 23
37 Ice Cream Sunday 7a+ * 13
38 Scream for Cream 7a+ ** 21
39 G.L.C SAF 7b ** 27
40 Trailblazer 7b *** 39
41 Sink or Swim 7a+ ** 34
42 Security Plus 7b * 18
43 Give It Some Belly 7b 2
44 Norman Normal 7a ** 59
Climb name Grade
45 Give it Some Wellie 6c 19
46 All's Well 6b * 69
47 Bitter End 6c 20
48 Adam Hussein's Nan 6b 10
49 Taffy Duck 6c ** 2
  The Outer Pit
51 Affluenza 5c 18
52 Honeybucket Supreme 5b 36
53 Faster! Pussycat 5c 54
54 Tinkers Dog 6a * 64
55 Full Metal Jacket 6a+ * 80
56 Clart's Free Dragon Taxi Ride to Visit Nan Hussein 5a 20
57 Any Old Iron 6c ** 66
58 Rag and Bone 6b+ ** 131
59 Wreckers Ball 6a * 136
60 Knackers Yard 6a+ * 152
61 Landfill Tax 6a * 146
62 Sustainable Development 5c 147
63 Industrial Salvage 5c 111
64 Iron Foundry VB ** 18

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