Climbs 62
Rocktype Slate
Altitude 91m a.s.l
Faces all

more leicestershire slate © paul birch

Crag features

Big quarry still with plenty of scope for new routing. The Nanpantan slab is fully developed with bold routes from HVS to E5 and the most solid and obvious lines on the tiers to the left have been climbed. Some routes have been put up on the back wall and the mound on the left of the approach path, though there are still routes to be done.

Most routes are slabby and loose, with poor protection (take micro wires and slings for the tiny trees) though there are also some good bolted routes in the lower grades.

See here for up to date topos.

Restricted Access

There are talks going on at the moment with the quarry company and the land owners regarding public access to this unused quarry. Please DO NOT CLIMB HERE for the time being.

Update (11/02/2012) by NobbyClark: Spoke to my brother in law who works for the quarry firm that used to own the quarry. It's been sold to Biffa and if they get their way Charnwood Quarry will be the site of their new incinerator.

Guidebooks

No guides found for this crag

hi which are the bolted routes here? went today for a mooch around but couldn't spot them thanks
wadawads - 22/Mar/15
Last time we were at the crag we spoke with the farmer. Please use the style/ reinforced fence on the top left of the field next to a BIG tree and he is happy. If you climb over his walls and fences he wont be.
chris murnin - 19/Dec/12
What's the latest on access here?
NobbyClark - 11/Feb/12
If First Blood is HVS then I'm a monkeys uncle! If it were a few degrees steeper, maybe! Yeah it's bold as and the topout is loose, but there is good gear in the lower section and you can practically lie down on it! HS 4a?
Tomber - 21/Jul/11
Hi Stuart The routes are named, see http://www.leicestershireclimbs.co.uk/Charnwood_Quarry.html I will update the logbook page when the new guide comes out or maybe sooner if I get really bored
mark20 - 12/Apr/11
There is enough room for one car or two stacked in front of the wooden gate on the Nanpantan road or there is a sort of muddy layby 50m down the road where you could fit two or three cars. Any chance of getting some of the unnamed routes names? I'd suggest maybe Monster Slab or Easy Does It for Unnamed and Up and Over 1, 2 & 3 for the three unnamed sport routes, though obviously its up to whoever did them first!
Stuart Hurworth - 14/Jan/11
Thanks Paul mate, I thought it may of been that area but there is very limited parking. I was also on a motorbike and couldn't get in. Moral of this tale is Get there early.
Paul Merrigan - 29/May/10
You can park by a gateway on the Nanpanton to Copt oak road a few hundred yards up the hill from nanpanton. See the map on the tower website.
paul birch - 16/May/10
Hi all! I have been up to the entrance to the quarry, and also tried all around it to find access. Where would I park and how do you get in without having to go through the security?
Paul Merrigan - 16/May/10
John, you were in the wrong part, on the other side of the M1, see map
mark20 - 09/Apr/10
Went there today (3/4/2010). Looks certainly like a working quarry. Big gates totally blocking access, CCTV all over the shop, the works. Pity coz the pictures indicate good climbing.
John_Hat - 03/Apr/10
I do like this place. Went there last week and not another person around on a sunny Sunday afternoon! Some nice climbing to be had.
spqr - 19/Jun/09
Climbs are getting cleaner with more traffic and someone has left slings to abb off the second and top tier on the left of the big slab.
mark20 - 04/Jun/09
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Nanpantan Slab
2 The Seventh Curse
-
E2 5b 4
3 The Fifth Columnist
-
HVS 4b 10
4 Henry VIII
-
E1 4c 3
5 Fourth Protocol
-
E2 4c * 10
6 First Blood HVS 4c * 63
7 Sixth Sense
-
E5 5c 2
8 Third Degree
-
E3 5b * 4
9 Second Coming
-
E1 4b * 9
10 The Ninth Gate
-
E1 5a 3
11 Cameraman HVS 4a 4
  Lower (Water) Tier
13 H78 corner VS 4b 4
14 H78 crack HVS 5b 2
15 Determination E3 6a * 2
16 Vicky's Stockings S 4a 4
17 Little Monkey 6a * 19
18 Wild Goose Chase VS 4c * 3
19 Mother Goose VS 4b 2
20 Juicey Goosey
-
VS 4b 1
21 Homage to Hezmond
-
E1 4c 1
22 Just Give Me Some Candy E3 5b 1
  Middle Tier
24 Good Crack HS 4b 7
25 Slab & Crack
-
HVS 5b 3
26 Slip Central
-
E3 6a ** 2
27 Avalanche Corner HVS 4c 5
28 Gillingham Girls
-
HS 4b 21
29 The Lost Wave
-
HVS 4c 6
30 Temptation E1 5a * 2
31 Dave's Slab VD 9
32 The Slaboratory
-
HVS 4c 5
33 Groove is in the Arse
-
HS 4a 7
34 Cherry Blossom HVS 4c * 5
35 Cherry Blossom Right Hand S 4a 4
36 Jacko VD 6
37 Lob Worm 4a * 14
  Upper Tier
39 Nick the Pig 4a 26
40 Tony Montana 5c 23
41 Hector the Toad 5a 25
42 Grumpy Old Men HVD 9
43 Old Timers
-
S 4
44 B.O.F
-
HVS 4b 2
45 The Cynics
-
HVS 4b 1
46 Not too Bad
-
HVS 5a 7
47 Pretty Good
-
HVS 5b 2
48 Dust 'til Dusk S 4b ** 8
49 Slightly Better E2 5c * 2
50 Loup
-
E5 6a * 1
51 Reedy
-
HVS 4a 1
52 Rich
-
HVS 4a 4
53 Don't forget the sun cream
-
HS 4a 5
54 The Leper
-
E1 4c 1
55 Lazar House
-
E2 5a 1
  Other Walls
57 Dark night * MS 5
58 Bucket of worms * E2 4c 1
59 Treefrogs E1 5a * 3
60 Touching cloth E4 5b * 4
61 Long Way Out VS 4b 2
62 Is it OK to be Scared? E2 5a/b 3
63 Tree Frogs
-
E3 5b 4c  
64 Tree Frogs Direct
-
E3 5b 5b  1
65 Red Shows Here E2 5a 1
66 When Light Wait E3 5b 1
67 Dahi * VS 4a 2
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer mark20