Climbs 62
Rocktype Slate
Altitude 91m a.s.l
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more leicestershire slate © paul birch

Crag features

Big quarry still with plenty of scope for new routing. The Nanpantan slab is fully developed with bold routes from HVS to E5 and the most solid and obvious lines on the tiers to the left have been climbed. Some routes have been put up on the back wall and the mound on the left of the approach path, though there are still routes to be done.

Most routes are slabby and loose, with poor protection (take micro wires and slings for the tiny trees) though there are also some good bolted routes in the lower grades.

See here for up to date topos.

Approach notes

Access to the quarry has been restricted by some big fences not sure what's going on there are no signs to say what is happening. January 2019


No guides found for this crag

Access now getting harder! There is a new steel fence that has just been put in at the top of the quarry. The access road up the side of the quarry where you walk in has recently been cleared by bulldozer and Security is also now patrolling the entire quarry. We managed one climb before two security guards walked down and politely asked us to leave! Probably the last time i'll climb in there, quite sad as its a great venue with some great climbs
paulharmer - 30/Aug/18
Here 26th July 2018 and there is a very polite dog-handler security team on site who say the quarry is completely shut to climbers/swimmers/dog walkers. Asked them to contact BMC/UKC to spread the word
Roguish_smile - 26/Jul/18
hi which are the bolted routes here? went today for a mooch around but couldn't spot them thanks
wadawads - 22/Mar/15
Last time we were at the crag we spoke with the farmer. Please use the style/ reinforced fence on the top left of the field next to a BIG tree and he is happy. If you climb over his walls and fences he wont be.
chris murnin - 19/Dec/12
What's the latest on access here?
NobbyClark - 11/Feb/12
If First Blood is HVS then I'm a monkeys uncle! If it were a few degrees steeper, maybe! Yeah it's bold as and the topout is loose, but there is good gear in the lower section and you can practically lie down on it! HS 4a?
Tomber - 21/Jul/11
Hi Stuart The routes are named, see I will update the logbook page when the new guide comes out or maybe sooner if I get really bored
mark20 - 12/Apr/11
There is enough room for one car or two stacked in front of the wooden gate on the Nanpantan road or there is a sort of muddy layby 50m down the road where you could fit two or three cars. Any chance of getting some of the unnamed routes names? I'd suggest maybe Monster Slab or Easy Does It for Unnamed and Up and Over 1, 2 & 3 for the three unnamed sport routes, though obviously its up to whoever did them first!
Stuart Hurworth - 14/Jan/11
Thanks Paul mate, I thought it may of been that area but there is very limited parking. I was also on a motorbike and couldn't get in. Moral of this tale is Get there early.
Paul Merrigan - 29/May/10
You can park by a gateway on the Nanpanton to Copt oak road a few hundred yards up the hill from nanpanton. See the map on the tower website.
paul birch - 16/May/10
Hi all! I have been up to the entrance to the quarry, and also tried all around it to find access. Where would I park and how do you get in without having to go through the security?
Paul Merrigan - 16/May/10
John, you were in the wrong part, on the other side of the M1, see map
mark20 - 09/Apr/10
Went there today (3/4/2010). Looks certainly like a working quarry. Big gates totally blocking access, CCTV all over the shop, the works. Pity coz the pictures indicate good climbing.
John_Hat - 03/Apr/10
I do like this place. Went there last week and not another person around on a sunny Sunday afternoon! Some nice climbing to be had.
spqr - 19/Jun/09
Climbs are getting cleaner with more traffic and someone has left slings to abb off the second and top tier on the left of the big slab.
mark20 - 04/Jun/09
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Nanpantan Slab
2 The Seventh Curse
E2 5b 4
3 The Fifth Columnist
HVS 4b 11
4 Henry VIII
E1 4c 4
5 Fourth Protocol
E2 4c * 11
6 First Blood HVS 4c * 68
7 Sixth Sense
E5 5c 2
8 Third Degree
E3 5b * 4
9 Second Coming
E1 4b * 10
10 The Ninth Gate
E1 5a 3
11 Cameraman HVS 4a 3
  Lower (Water) Tier
13 H78 corner VS 4b 4
14 H78 crack HVS 5b 2
15 Determination E3 6a * 2
16 Vicky's Stockings S 4a 6
17 Little Monkey 6a * 20
18 Wild Goose Chase VS 4c * 3
19 Mother Goose VS 4b 2
20 Juicey Goosey
VS 4b 1
21 Homage to Hezmond
E1 4c 1
22 Just Give Me Some Candy E3 5b 1
Climb name Grade
  Middle Tier
24 Good Crack HS 4b 7
25 Slab & Crack
HVS 5b 3
26 Slip Central
E3 6a ** 2
27 Avalanche Corner HVS 4c 8
28 Gillingham Girls
HS 4b 22
29 The Lost Wave
HVS 4c 6
30 Temptation E1 5a * 2
31 Dave's Slab VD 9
32 The Slaboratory
HVS 4c 7
33 Groove is in the Arse
HS 4a 7
34 Cherry Blossom HVS 4c * 6
35 Cherry Blossom Right Hand S 4a 4
36 Jacko VD 6
37 Lob Worm 4a * 14
  Upper Tier
39 Nick the Pig 4a 29
40 Tony Montana 5c 25
41 Hector the Toad 5a 24
42 Grumpy Old Men HVD 11
43 Old Timers
S 4
44 B.O.F
HVS 4b 2
45 The Cynics
HVS 4b 1
Climb name Grade
46 Not too Bad
HVS 5a 7
47 Pretty Good
HVS 5b 2
48 Dust 'til Dusk S 4b ** 8
49 Slightly Better E2 5c * 2
50 Loup
E5 6a * 1
51 Reedy
HVS 4a 1
52 Rich
HVS 4a 4
53 Don't forget the sun cream
HS 4a 5
54 The Leper
E1 4c 1
55 Lazar House
E2 5a 1
  Other Walls
57 Dark night * MS 5
58 Bucket of worms * E2 4c 2
59 Treefrogs E1 5a * 3
60 Touching cloth E4 5b * 4
61 Long Way Out VS 4b 2
62 Is it OK to be Scared? E2 5a/b 3
63 Tree Frogs
E3 5b 4c  
64 Tree Frogs Direct
E3 5b 5b  1
65 Red Shows Here E2 5a 1
66 When Light Wait E3 5b 1
67 Dahi * VS 4a 2
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer mark20