Climbs 95
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 100m a.s.l
Faces W

Games of Ambivalence, First Ascent © Bunchuk

Crag features

Large former quarry, with single- and multi-pitch routes up to 73m. A few routes have loose rock and not much pro but those are the exceptions. Dries quickly. Best routes include Pine Tree (VD/S***) and Cowpoke (E1 5a).

Approach notes

From M4, J32, A 470, 0.5mi north. Overlooks S-bound carriageway of the A470 between Tongwynlais and Taffs Wells. Park at the base of the cliff where it meets the roundabout.

Guidebooks

South Wales Sport Climbs

South Wales Sport Climbs covers the area to the south of the Brecon Beacons, spanning the land and sea cliffs from the River Wye on the Welsh border to Pembrokeshire in the west. The area is home to a wealth of sport climbing on a multitude of venues ranging from small inland quarries to extensive limestone sea cliffs.
More info
This newish crag is awesome for low-grades. Really good grippy rock, enough to keep you entertained for an evening. Shame about the road noise but at least you can't see it.
adsheff - 20/Jun/14
Thanks to whoever has cut a lot of the trees back. On the right wall some of the lower offs are very rusty from No Beer, No Fear to CJD
Gareth T - 18/May/14
Many thanks to whoever cut back all the foliage and trees from around the base of the main wall this winter. The crags looking a lot better for it, cheers.
Giles Davis - 04/May/14
Headed up here last week. Crag is looking good, although some of the routes need to be cleaned up obviously hasn't had much traffic. Smells great, very strong wild garlic covering any nasty odours. Well worth a quick trip. Cheers.
hdjc90 - 27/May/13
the crag is in pretty good nick atm (spring 2012) im guessing due to the dry and warm winter meaning the sewage hasnt overflowed into it and seapage has been minimal. also the lack of tree foliage means that it is a sun trap all day in the current good weather we are experiencing. there is less loose rock and dirt than the other taffs well crags currently. it is hard to work out which route is which as there are more bolts than listed climbs, so an updated route list is needed.
Webster - 02/Apr/12
The smell is still here, but it's mainly coming from an area approaching the crag and you can only smell it now and then on the right hand side of the wall. The routes are a llittle dirty and slippery, but I guess with a little more traffic they could scrub up better. Best to get here early, as we got ot the crag early morning and the smell was not that bad, but was awful a couple of hours later when we were leaving. Definitely some sort of sewage smell possibly from the castle above.
bon - 02/Oct/11
Bit dirty, bit of a smell and a bit loose in places. With more traffic this crag will probably be just as rubbish. OK for a one of visit if you're in the area but nothing impressive.
James_86 - 04/May/11
There was a smell but only occasionally and not as bad as it had been made out to be
toby.pearce - 24/Mar/11
is that smell still there?
Laurent Moseley - 06/Jan/11
been to crag today and left after one route the stench was terrible!
ross duffield - 12/Aug/10
The map link is now correct. Taffs Well train station is about 10min walk away so great connections from Cardiff / Cynon Valley for an after work session. Roughly 30min from Queen St station to crag! http://www.sportsclimbs.co.uk/mainpages/southwales/Taffs%20Well%20Main.htm has a good topo though the grades on here are more reflective of the difficulty, but I can't vouch for the harder stuff!
spbond - 20/May/08
And it's shit. Go climb the sandstone its much better.
alan rosier - 15/Jun/05
Taffs Well is where castell coch is ,, just on the outskirts of Caerddydd(Cardiff), approximatly 40 miles away from the start of Powys.
uriel - 06/Aug/04
dont go by the map link as it is wrong and will send you about 40 miles out of your way
kt - 05/Jul/03
In the guide book its a lot lot nearer Cardiff ie more in south Wales than in Mid Wales. unfortunatly.
Joe Sterling - 02/Jul/02
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Taffs Well Pinnacle
2 Proj 2 2
3 Poppin' in the Poop Deck 5c * 77
4 Megalodon 6a * 86
5 Kiss the Gunner's Daughter 5c * 89
6 Angry Pirate 5c * 104
7 Sponge Bob
-
VD 10
8 Sharktopus Vs Megapotamus 4c * 103
9 Yar! 5a 122
10 Jurassic Shark 5c 78
  The Shield
12 Paul's Penchant For Pretty Pussy Poses Problems For The Prudes 4c 20
13 Out Of The Pit 4c 18
14 The Immature Culvert S 3
15 Western Traverse HS ** 3
16 No-Name MVS ** 3
17 Flying Frisian E3 5b  
18 The Hobbit
-
HVS 4c 3
19 Cowpoke E1 5a * 8
20 Changes E3 5c * 1
21 Promises 7a ** 6
22 Nero VS 4b, 4a 4
23 The Rib S 3
24 Catwalk
-
S 6
25 Crimes Of Fashion 6c+ * 5
26 Sub Wall
-
S 2
27 Pine Tree VD ** 148
28 Skywalker
-
E5 6a 3
  Calcite Wall
30 Red Square 6b+ ** 73
31 Organised Chaos 6c ** 56
32 The Melty Man Cometh 7a * 21
33 Swashbucklin In Brooklyn 7a * 9
34 Swashbucklin In Brooklyn (Pitch 1) 4a * 11
35 Crowman
-
E5 6a ** 3
36 Painted Bird
-
E6 6a *** 3
37 LA Confidential 7a ** 11
38 Spirit Of Missouri 7a+ ** 13
39 Spirit Of Missouri (Pitch 1) 6b * 5
40 Kings Of New York 7a+ ** 7
41 The Conneticut Connection 7a+ ** 16
42 Minnesota Nice/Tainted Bird 7a+ 2
43 Melting Man 7a *** 76
44 Ghengis Khan 6c+ *** 132
45 Taurus Bulbous 6b+ ** 111
46 Bulbus Tara 4b * 167
47 Hirsuit Ulvula 6a * 63
  Upper Wall
49 Jesus Wept 6c * 21
50 Space Cowboys 6c+ 11
51 Heavenly 7a * 10
52 Christendom 7a * 8
53 The Angel of Mons 6c * 14
54 Decimus Maximus 6b ** 20
55 Maximus Extensicus 6c * 4
56 Gladiator
-
E3 5c 1
57 Stray Bullets 6c+ ** 8
58 I'm Spartacus 7b+ *** 1
59 Sugar Bullets 7b+ ** 5
60 Scram 7a+ ** 11
61 New Day Today 7a * 3
62 Rancho La Cha Cha Cha 6c+ * 5
63 Talk About False Gods 7b+  
  Lower Wall
65 Pilgrim 4c 3
66 Mega Mix 5c * 126
67 Gwesty Cymru 7" Mix 6b+ * 101
68 The Twelve Inch Version 7a * 16
69 Daggers 6c ** 44
70 Look Over Yonder 6c+ ** 33
71 Wet Afternoon 7b+ ** 12
72 Open Groove 6b * 27
73 Ulrika Ka Ka Ka 6c+ ** 17
74 D'ya Hear Ma Dear 6a+ * 52
75 Good Gear,Good Cheer 6b * 54
76 No Beer, No Fear 6a+ ** 81
77 Not My Fault! 6c+ * 11
78 Foot And Mouth
-
6b 16
79 Id-iot 6b * 18
80 CJD 6b * 24
81 Get Down On This 6c * 16
82 Get Thee Hence 6c+ 8
83 Matt's Ice Bucket Challenge 6c 14
84 Tidy as Matt's Toolbox 6c+ 1
85 Celestial Being 7b * 2
86 That was not 6a+ * 6c 1
  Castle Coch
88 The Slippery Lip Trick 6b * 11
89 The Crawling Chaos 7a * 13
90 Play the Joker 6b+ * 5
91 Games of Ambivalence 6b+ * 16
92 Warmth of a Man 6a 34
93 Ass in the Hole 6b+ 10
94 Royal Flush 6b+ 15
95 Savant 6c+ 4
96 Stalag Luft 5c * 45
97 A Ride on the Chocolate Unicorn 5c 41
98 The Dark Art of Banana Magic 4a 39
99 R2 Sucking D2 Licking Deep inside a Half-Cooked Chicken 4a 34
100 For Fonting Friends 4a 52
101 Dissertation Distraction 4a 68
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer devo