Climbs 19
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude 262m a.s.l
Faces W

The main wall at Blaenllechau including Away With The Mixer (F6b+) © Blackgoby

Crag features

Clearly visible from Ferndale town,it is best to fix it's location roughly as it cannot be located visually from the road above. Despite it's previous bad reviews further inspection has revealed that once re-geared the earlier routes are very good and the crop of new ones are on excellent rock and sunny for most of the day and evening.This crag probably has the biggest crop of 4+/5's of any sandstone crag,enough to occupy a sunny summer evening.

(description taken from the SWMC website)

Approach notes

Take the A4233 to Ferndale and follow the signs to Blaenllechau on the other side of the valley. Follow the hairpin road into the village and use the turning circle to negotiate the right very sharp bend into the minor mountain road to Penrhiwceiber/Llanwonno. Follow this road to the end of the highest terrace and park in the limited space by the 30mph signs.Walk 4 mins up the road and follow the rough path down and left at the crash barrier.It is also possible to park a small car here or one of the lower terraces if the previous spot is full.

Access Advice

Suggest you don't park in the small layby by the 30mph signs as a note was left on a car by local resident asking not to park there in future.


South Wales Sport Climbs

South Wales Sport Climbs covers the area to the south of the Brecon Beacons, spanning the land and sea cliffs from the River Wye on the Welsh border to Pembrokeshire in the west. The area is home to a wealth of sport climbing on a multitude of venues ranging from small inland quarries to extensive limestone sea cliffs.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Gower & South-East Wales (2004)
Access: 'down and left at the crash barrier' - it's much more left than down. Stay above the line of loose rock / spoil tips. Lots of midges on our visit mid-June.
rcoombe - 25/Jun/13
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 Dirtbag arete 6b * 19
2 Electrolux HVS 2
3 Dicky Dyson 5c ** 17
4 Dust Devil 5a 13
5 Suction Power 4a 2
6 Possessed By The Mind Of A Hoover 9m HS 4a  
7 Raspberry Ripple 4c * 27
Climb name Grade
8 Ripple slab 3a * 17
9 Fairy Godmother 4c * 18
10 Fairy's Liquid 4c * 22
11 Fairy Ring 6c * 11
12 Away With The Mixer 6b+ ** 16
13 Away With The Fairies 6c * 7
14 Fair Enough 4c 15
Climb name Grade
15 Hands that do dishes 4c 5
16 Leaky Ball Cock 5a * 17
17 Cock and Ball Story 6b+ * 9
18 Plumbing the depths 7a * 6
19 Half Pint - Full Pint HS 4a 2

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