UKC

Climbs 193
Rocktype Limestone

Faces SW

SuperSizeMe F7c, Witches Point © simon rawlinson

Crag features

One of the best sports climbings spots in the South of Britain. The rocks is like Lower Pen Trwyn.Hanging By A Thread (F6c) is one of the best of its grade anywhere, Edge-Hog (F7b+), Masada (F8a) and Staple Diet (F7b) are all 3 star routes.

There are a lot of shorter routes on the sea walls on the tip itself.

Approach notes

Witches Tip is only accessible an hour or two either side of low water. The main crags are rarely affected by the tide, but you can get cut off in the corner of the beach an hour either side of high water. If you'll potentially be climbing whilst the tide is in its advisable to inform the staff in the small shop situated in the car park that you plan to do so, as they'll call out the coastguard if anyone appears to be stranded on the point.
Sea Walls are affected if there is heavy swell.
Approach from Southerndown (Dunraven Bay). Park in P&Disp car park and cross the beach, or walk over the headland to the W side of the point facing Dunraven Bay.

Guidebooks

South Wales Sport Climbs

South Wales Sport Climbs covers the area to the south of the Brecon Beacons, spanning the land and sea cliffs from the River Wye on the Welsh border to Pembrokeshire in the west. The area is home to a wealth of sport climbing on a multitude of venues ranging from small inland quarries to extensive limestone sea cliffs.
More info
These problems are very good - good rock although landings can be a bit awkward particularly if you don't have lots of mats - I bouldered extensively here in the 90s and have probably done most of those described
Eugetj - 30/Jan/15
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Stone Wings Cliff
2 Waiting Wuss Open Project 1  
3 Liassic Lark 7a * 111
4 In Search Of Bedrock 7a+ * 12
5 Wilma !!!! Help Me Look For My Bedsocks 7c * 1
6 Help Me, Help Me Rhondda 7c ** 42
7 The Dai Vinci Coed 7c ** 8
8 Methuselah 8a *** 1
9 This god Is Mine 7b+ *** 57
10 Masada 8a+ *** 29
11 Stone Wings E5 * 2
12 The Uninvited Guest 7b+ 7
13 Mr. T. 8a+ ** 1
14 Super Size Me 7c+ ** 13
15 Staple Diet 7b *** 127
16 Tragic Moustache 7a ** 33
17 Five O'Clock Shadow 6c+ ** 45
18 Magic Touch 6b ** 61
19 Pelagic Mush 6a+ * 118
20 Sideburn 6b+ * 72
21 Spear The Bearded Clam 6b 81
22 Slurp The Savoury Oyster 5c 21
  Dunraven Cliff
24 Tufa Joy 7a 11
25 Tufa At The Top 7a ** 43
26 Its Tufa At The Bottom 7a+ * 7
27 Tufa Tennis 6c * 20
28 PCB 6a 44
29 Croeso-I-Gymru 6b+ ** 46
30 World vs Gibson 7a ** 34
31 Straining At The Leash 7b ** 6
32 Leave It To The Dogs 7a+ ** 10
33 There's Life In The Old Dog Yet 6c+ * 54
34 Plus Ca Change 7b * 7
35 Hanging By A Thread 6c *** 173
36 Edge-More 7c 5
37 Edge Hog 7b+ *** 31
38 Grow Up 7c * 3
39 Pasty = Man Boobs 4a 36
40 Young, Gifted and Beige 4a 15
41 The Overlook 7b+ * 5
42 Anchors Away 6b+ * 11
43 Cast Adrift 6c * 15
44 Broken On The Rocks 6b * 21
45 Marooned 6b 18
  Witches Cave
47 Diawl Bach 6b+ 3
48 Drewgi 5b 3
49 Mewn Cachiad 5b 3
50 Pwdin Blew 6a+ 1
51 Cachau Hwch 5b 3
52 Coc Oen 6b * 3
53 Wnco Mwnco 6b+ * 2
54 Onco Fonco 6b 2
55 Hen Gi 6a+ 2
56 Triciau Newydd 5b 2
57 Pen Pidyn HS 4b 1
58 Blaidd Drwg HS 4b 3
59 Rabbit From A Hat VD 10
60 Fatman And Nob In 3c 21
61 Gay Batman 5a 55
62 Robin's Yoghurt Supper 5a 60
63 Abra-Ker-Fucking-Dabra 5c * 80
64 Sorcerer's Assistant 6a+ * 66
65 Magic Circle 6b * 37
66 Smoke And Mirrors 6b ** 45
67 Great Expectorations 6b ** 37
68 Phlegmatic Solution 6c ** 13
Climb name Grade
69 Evil Ways 7b ** 8
70 Evil Kneeful 7a+ *** 10
71 Willie The Pimp 6c+ ** 4
72 White Witch E5  
73 Thin Lizzy 6c+ ** 25
74 Wrasse Wipe 6c * 12
75 Wrasseputin's Hypodermic Typewriter 6c * 6
76 Didymo Clogs Yer Tackle 6b * 14
77 Fishermen Pump Their Rods 6a+ 21
78 Wrasse Bandit 6b+ 8
79 Sore Wrasse 6c 4
80 Wrassetafarian 6b+ 4
81 Little Wrasse Cull 6a 7
82 Little Wrasse Turd HS 1
83 Little Wrasse Tickler HS 2
84 Chateau Lefat 69 HS 1
85 Fishermen Mash Their Bait HS 1
86 The Bedraggled Trousered Misogynist 5c 2
  Witches Tip Main Cliff
88 Betty Swallocks E4 6a/b 1
89 Paternoster E3 5c ** 1
90 It's All Bollocks E2 6b 2
91 Fishermen's Friend E2 5b 1
92 Royal Headache E3 6b 1
93 Jilter's Wall
-
E2 5c 4
94 Wanker's Crack/Professor's Crack
-
VS 4b 5
95 Leg over E4 6a 1
96 Pullover E3 6a 2
97 Hand Over E1 5a 1
98 Gloss Over E3 5b 1
99 No Push Over E2 5c 1
100 Eugene's Over
-
E1 5c 2
101 Crossover HVS 5a  
102 How well it flows
-
HVS 5b 3
103 Arcana
-
E4 5c 1
104 Lysistera
-
E5 6a 1
105 Bridges End E4 6b 2
106 Undercut E1 5c 3
107 Up In Smoke E3 5c * 4
108 Step Aside E1 5c 6
109 Cold Shoulder
-
HVS 5b 4
110 Breakout HVS 2
111 Fast Flow 1 E1 5b * 5
112 Fast Flow 2 E1 5b * 4
113 Fast Flow 3 E2 5b * 3
114 Aristophanes Plays With Time E3 6a * 3
115 Turn Back Time E2 5b 2
116 Down The Mists Of Time
-
E2 5b 1
117 Surprise Surprise E1 5b * 1
118 Waiting Game HVS 5a 3
  Temple Bay - First Inlet
120 Long Awaited 6c * 8
121 Fools Rush In 6c+ ** 4
122 Lasting Impressions E3 *  
123 Dross of 86 6b * 7
124 Sixty Eight Plus One 6b 11
125 Blow me, Another one 5c * 13
126 Matt Of The Iron Gland 6a * 13
127 Wrecker's Bay 6a+ * 13
128 Surly Temple 6a+ * 11
  Temple Bay - Second Inlet
130 Themis Is Out Of Order 6a+ * 3
131 Alchemy of Error 6a 3
132 Ow 7a 2
133 300 Spartans 6b * 3
134 Sliced Up At Thermopylae 6a 3
135 Sharpshitter 6c * 1
136 Minsir 6c * 3
Climb name Grade
137 Leonidas Last Breakfast 6a+ 3
138 Tip Ripper 6c * 5
139 Achilles Hasn't A Foot To Stand On 6b+ * 7
140 Euclid's Theorem 6a * 9
141 Gift Of The Gods 6b+ 4
142 Gods Of Long Ashton 6a 7
143 Dark Force Of Glamorgan 6a 6
144 All Greek To Me 5c 6
145 One Less For The Spoiler 4c 6
146 Jericho E3 5c  
147 Medusa Spares No Head 6a+ 5
148 Prometheus Bound 5c 5
149 Oceanus Aches 6a 5
150 Dodecanese Dalliance 5b 4
  Cave Inlet
152 The Barnacle Bill 6b * 3
153 Canaan Grunts HVS 1
154 Hundred Years Of Reflection 6b+ * 6
155 Dulce Et Decorum Est 6b+ * 2
156 Zacchaeus Repents 6b+ * 3
157 Chargeable Event 6a * 7
158 Lips Off My Shofarot 6a+ * 10
159 Lane Discipline 6a+ * 8
160 Hogging The Mid Lane 6b * 8
161 Life in the Slow Lane 6b+ * 1
162 Life In The Slow Lane HVS 6
163 Quiet Flows The Don 5b 8
164 Heading For A Sea Of Tears 5c 8
165 Sultan's Spring 5c 4
166 Blowing The Ram's Horn VS 1
167 Climb A Sycamore Tree HVS 1
168 Tumbledown HS 2
169 Consequentialist Perfectionism HVS 1
170 Nietzche's Niche 5c * 9
171 Reverted Revisionist 6a+ * 17
172 Cartesian Dualism 5b * 23
173 Descarte's Dithers 5c * 26
174 Archimedes Screws 6a+ * 19
175 The Burning Glass 6b ** 7
176 Siege Of Syracuse 6b ** 7
  Long Wall
178 Socrates Sucks 5c 9
179 Kant Hooks 4c * 22
180 Rude Buoys HS 3
181 Sartres Flies M 8
182 Sartre's Underlay VS 6
183 The Carpetbagger 4c * 16
184 Fermat's Last Theorem 5b * 18
185 Oreste's Suffering 6a+ * 9
186 The Probing Proctologist 6a * 8
187 Electra's Revenge 5c 17
188 Jim'll Fix It
-
VS 5a 4
189 Now Then Now Then VS 4c 2
190 Method of Exhaustion HS 4b 2
191 Reductio Ad Absurdum
-
VD 3
192 Ad Infinitum S 2
  Moved climbs from Temple bay cave
194 Ankor wat V4 3
195 Ankor thom V3 ** 3
196 Heading to the light V2 3
197 Sagrada familia V8+ ** 1
198 Luxor V5 ** 3
199 El mirador V0 3
200 King Soloman's V7 ** 2
201 Tweeter and the monkey man V1 ** 3
202 Kashmir V1 3
  Routes Added from Rockfax Book

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