Climbs 180
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude Tidal
Faces SW

SuperSizeMe F7c, Witches Point © simon rawlinson

Crag features

One of the best sports climbings spots in the South of Britain. The rocks is like Lower Pen Trwyn.Hanging By A Thread (F6c) is one of the best of its grade anywhere, Edge-Hog (F7b+), Masada (F8a) and Staple Diet (F7b) are all 3 star routes.

There are a lot of shorter routes on the sea walls on the tip itself.

Approach notes

Witches Tip is only accessible an hour or two either side of low water. The main crags are rarely affected by the tide, but you can get cut off in the corner of the beach an hour either side of high water. If you'll potentially be climbing whilst the tide is in its advisable to inform the staff in the small shop situated in the car park that you plan to do so, as they'll call out the coastguard if anyone appears to be stranded on the point.
Sea Walls are affected if there is heavy swell.
Approach from Southerndown (Dunraven Bay). Park in P&Disp car park and cross the beach, or walk over the headland to the W side of the point facing Dunraven Bay.

Guidebooks

South Wales Sport Climbs

South Wales Sport Climbs covers the area to the south of the Brecon Beacons, spanning the land and sea cliffs from the River Wye on the Welsh border to Pembrokeshire in the west. The area is home to a wealth of sport climbing on a multitude of venues ranging from small inland quarries to extensive limestone sea cliffs.
More info
These problems are very good - good rock although landings can be a bit awkward particularly if you don't have lots of mats - I bouldered extensively here in the 90s and have probably done most of those described
Eugetj - 30/Jan/15
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Stone Wings Cliff 
2Waiting Wuss Open Project1  
3Liassic Lark7a *84
4In Search Of Bedrock7a+ *11
5Wilma !!!! Help Me Look For My Bedsocks7c *1
6Help Me, Help Me Rhondda7c **36
7The Dai Vinci Coed7c **4
8Methuselah8a *** 
9This god Is Mine7b+ ***52
10Masada8a+ ***41
11Stone WingsE5 *2
12The Uninvited Guest7b+ 7
13Mr. T.8a+ **1
14Super Size Me7c+ **11
15Staple Diet7b ***128
16Tragic Moustache7a **32
17Five O'Clock Shadow6c+ **48
18Magic Touch6b **48
19Pelagic Mush6a+ *102
20Sideburn6b+ *67
21Spear The Bearded Clam6b 66
22Slurp The Savoury Oyster5c 17
 Dunraven Cliff 
24Tufa Joy7a 10
25Tufa At The Top7a **40
26Its Tufa At The Bottom7a+ *9
27Tufa Tennis6c *17
28PCB6a 30
29Croeso-I-Gymru6b+ **37
30World vs Gibson7a **32
31Straining At The Leash7b **6
32Leave It To The Dogs7a+ **9
33There's Life In The Old Dog Yet6c+ *51
34Plus Ca Change7b *8
35Hanging By A Thread6c ***180
36Edge-More7c 5
37Edge Hog7b+ ***29
38Grow Up7c *3
39Pasty = Man Boobs4a 29
40Young, Gifted and Beige4a 9
41The Overlook7b+ *4
42Anchors Away6b+ *12
43Cast Adrift6c *16
44Broken On The Rocks6b *20
45Marooned6b 18
 Witches Cave 
47Rabbit From A HatVD 10
48Fatman And Nob In3+ 15
49Gay Batman5a 39
50Robin's Yoghurt Supper5a 48
51Abra-Ker-Fucking-Dabra5c *61
52Sorcerer's Assistant6a+ *55
53Magic Circle6b *30
54Smoke And Mirrors6b **38
55Great Expectorations6b **30
56Phlegmatic Solution6c **14
57Evil Ways7b **7
58Evil Kneeful7a+ ***17
59Willie The Pimp6c+ **4
60White WitchE5  
61Thin Lizzy6c+ **24
62Wrasse Wipe6c *11
63Wrasseputin's Hypodermic Typewriter6c *7
64Didymo Clogs Yer Tackle6b *13
65Fishermen Pump Their Rods6a+ 20
66Wrasse Bandit6b+ 9
67Sore Wrasse6c 5
68Wrassetafarian6b+ 5
69Little Wrasse Cull6a 7
70Little Wrasse TurdHS 1
71Little Wrasse TicklerHS 2
72Chateau Lefat 69HS 1
73Fishermen Mash Their BaitHS 1
74The Bedraggled Trousered Misogynist5c 2
75Blaidd Drwg *HS 4b 3
 Witches Tip Main Cliff 
77Betty SwallocksE4 6a/b 1
78PaternosterE3 5c **1
79It's All BollocksE2 6b 2
80Fishermen's FriendE2 5b 1
81Royal HeadacheE3 6b 1
82Jilter's Wall
-
E2 5c 4
83Wanker's Crack/Professor's Crack
-
VS 4b 5
84Leg overE4 6a 1
85PulloverE3 6a 2
86Hand OverE1 5a 1
87Gloss OverE3 5b 1
88No Push OverE2 5c 1
89Eugene's Over
-
E1 5c 2
90CrossoverHVS 5a  
91How well it flows
-
HVS 5b 3
92Arcana
-
E4 5c 1
93Lysistera
-
E5 6a 1
94Bridges EndE4 6b 2
95UndercutE1 5c 3
96Up In SmokeE3 5c *4
97Step AsideE1 5c 6
98Cold Shoulder
-
HVS 5b 4
99BreakoutHVS 2
100Fast Flow 1E1 5b *5
101Fast Flow 2E1 5b *4
102Fast Flow 3E2 5b *3
103Aristophanes Plays With TimeE3 6a *3
104Turn Back TimeE2 5b 2
105Surprise SurpriseE1 5b *1
106Waiting GameHVS 5a 3
 Temple Bay - First Inlet 
108Long Awaited6c *9
109Fools Rush In6c+ **5
110Lasting ImpressionsE3 * 
111Dross of 866b *8
112Sixty Eight Plus One6b 12
113Blow me, Another one5c *14
114Matt Of The Iron Gland6a *13
115Wrecker's Bay6a+ *13
116Surly Temple6a+ *11
 Temple Bay - Second Inlet 
118Themis Is Out Of Order6a+ *3
119Alchemy of Error6a 3
120Ow7a 2
121300 Spartans6b *3
122Sliced Up At Thermopylae6a 3
123Sharpshitter6c *1
124Minsir6c *3
125Leonidas Last Breakfast6a+ 3
126Tip Ripper6c *4
127Achilles Hasn't A Foot To Stand On6b+ *8
128Euclid's Theorem6a *9
129Gift Of The Gods6b+ 4
130Gods Of Long Ashton6a 7
131Dark Force Of Glamorgan6a 6
132All Greek To Me5c 6
133One Less For The Spoiler4c 6
134JerichoE3 5c  
135Medusa Spares No Head6a+ 3
136Prometheus Bound5c 3
137Oceanus Aches6a 3
138Dodecanese Dalliance5b 3
 Cave Inlet 
140The Barnacle Bill6b *3
141Canaan GruntsHVS 1
142Hundred Years Of Reflection6b+ *6
143Dulce Et Decorum Est6b+ *2
144Zacchaeus Repents6b+ *3
145Chargeable Event6a *6
146Lips Off My Shofarot6a+ *8
147Lane Discipline6a+ *6
148Hogging The Mid Lane6b *7
149Life in the Slow Lane6b+ *1
150Life In The Slow LaneHVS 7
151Quiet Flows The Don5b 6
152Heading For A Sea Of Tears5c 7
153Sultan's Spring5c 3
154Blowing The Ram's HornVS 1
155Climb A Sycamore TreeHVS 1
156TumbledownHS 2
157Consequentialist PerfectionismHVS 1
158Nietzche's Niche5c *6
159Reverted Revisionist6a+ *13
160Cartesian Dualism5b *14
161Descarte's Dithers5c *18
162Archimedes Screws6a+ *15
163The Burning Glass6b **6
164Siege Of Syracuse6b **7
 Long Wall 
166Socrates Sucks5c 7
167Kant Hooks4c *14
168Rude BuoysHS 2
169Sartres FliesM 6
170Sartre's UnderlayVS 5
171The Carpetbagger4c *8
172Fermat's Last Theorem5b *10
173Oreste's Suffering6a+ *7
174The Probing Proctologist6a *5
175Electra's Revenge5c 12
176Jim'll Fix It
-
VS 5a 3
177Now Then Now ThenVS 4c 2
178Method of ExhaustionHS 4b 2
179Reductio Ad Absurdum
-
VD 3
180Ad InfinitumS 2
 Moved climbs from Temple bay cave 
182Ankor watV4 3
183Ankor thomV3 **3
184Heading to the lightV2 3
185Sagrada familiaV8+ **1
186LuxorV5 **3
187El miradorV0 3
188King Soloman'sV7 **2
189Tweeter and the monkey manV1 **3
190KashmirV1 3
 Routes Added from Rockfax Book 
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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