Climbs 180
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude Tidal
Faces SW

SuperSizeMe F7c, Witches Point © simon rawlinson

Crag features

One of the best sports climbings spots in the South of Britain. The rocks is like Lower Pen Trwyn.Hanging By A Thread (F6c) is one of the best of its grade anywhere, Edge-Hog (F7b+), Masada (F8a) and Staple Diet (F7b) are all 3 star routes.

There are a lot of shorter routes on the sea walls on the tip itself.

Approach notes

Witches Tip is only accessible an hour or two either side of low water. The main crags are rarely affected by the tide, but you can get cut off in the corner of the beach an hour either side of high water. If you'll potentially be climbing whilst the tide is in its advisable to inform the staff in the small shop situated in the car park that you plan to do so, as they'll call out the coastguard if anyone appears to be stranded on the point.
Sea Walls are affected if there is heavy swell.
Approach from Southerndown (Dunraven Bay). Park in P&Disp car park and cross the beach, or walk over the headland to the W side of the point facing Dunraven Bay.

Guidebooks

South Wales Sport Climbs

South Wales Sport Climbs covers the area to the south of the Brecon Beacons, spanning the land and sea cliffs from the River Wye on the Welsh border to Pembrokeshire in the west. The area is home to a wealth of sport climbing on a multitude of venues ranging from small inland quarries to extensive limestone sea cliffs.
These problems are very good - good rock although landings can be a bit awkward particularly if you don't have lots of mats - I bouldered extensively here in the 90s and have probably done most of those described
Eugetj - 30/Jan/15
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Stone Wings Cliff 
2Waiting Wuss Open Project1  
3Liassic Lark7a *78
4In Search Of Bedrock7a+ *11
5Wilma !!!! Help Me Look For My Bedsocks7c *1
6Help Me, Help Me Rhondda7c **34
7The Dai Vinci Coed7c **4
8Methuselah8a *** 
9This god Is Mine7b+ ***52
10Masada8a+ ***35
11Stone WingsE5 *2
12The Uninvited Guest7b+ 6
13Mr. T.8a+ **1
14Super Size Me7c+ **10
15Staple Diet7b ***116
16Tragic Moustache7a **32
17Five O'Clock Shadow6c+ **46
18Magic Touch6b **47
19Pelagic Mush6a+ *100
20Sideburn6b+ *64
21Spear The Bearded Clam6b 63
22Slurp The Savoury Oyster5c 16
 Dunraven Cliff 
24Tufa Joy7a 10
25Tufa At The Top7a **40
26Its Tufa At The Bottom7a+ *8
27Tufa Tennis6c *16
28PCB6a 28
29Croeso-I-Gymru6b+ **36
30World vs Gibson7a **31
31Straining At The Leash7b **6
32Leave It To The Dogs7a+ **8
33There's Life In The Old Dog Yet6c+ *51
34Plus Ca Change7b *7
35Hanging By A Thread6c ***163
36Edge-More7c 5
37Edge Hog7b+ ***29
38Grow Up7c *3
39Pasty = Man Boobs4a 27
40Young, Gifted and Beige4a 8
41The Overlook7b+ *4
42Anchors Away6b+ *11
43Cast Adrift6c *16
44Broken On The Rocks6b *20
45Marooned6b 18
 Witches Cave 
47Rabbit From A HatVD 8
48Fatman And Nob In3+ 12
49Gay Batman5a 36
50Robin's Yoghurt Supper5a 46
51Abra-Ker-Fucking-Dabra5c *57
52Sorcerer's Assistant6a+ *55
53Magic Circle6b *30
54Smoke And Mirrors6b **38
55Great Expectorations6b **29
56Phlegmatic Solution6c **14
57Evil Ways7b **6
58Evil Kneeful7a+ ***8
59Willie The Pimp6c+ **4
60White WitchE5  
61Thin Lizzy6c+ **22
62Wrasse Wipe6c *10
63Wrasseputin's Hypodermic Typewriter6c *6
64Didymo Clogs Yer Tackle6b *12
65Fishermen Pump Their Rods6a+ 19
66Wrasse Bandit6b+ 8
67Sore Wrasse6c 4
68Wrassetafarian6b+ 4
69Little Wrasse Cull6a 4
70Little Wrasse TurdHS 1
71Little Wrasse TicklerHS 2
72Chateau Lefat 69HS 1
73Fishermen Mash Their BaitHS 1
74The Bedraggled Trousered Misogynist5c 2
 Witches Tip Main Cliff 
76Betty SwallocksE4 6a/b 1
77PaternosterE3 5c **1
78It's All BollocksE2 6b 2
79Fishermen's FriendE2 5b 1
80Royal HeadacheE3 6b 1
81Jilter's Wall
-
E2 5c 4
82Wanker's Crack/Professor's Crack
-
VS 4b 5
83Leg overE4 6a 1
84PulloverE3 6a 2
85Hand OverE1 5a 1
86Gloss OverE3 5b 1
87No Push OverE2 5c 1
88Eugene's Over
-
E1 5c 2
89CrossoverHVS 5a  
90How well it flows
-
HVS 5b 3
91Arcana
-
E4 5c 1
92Lysistera
-
E5 6a 1
93Bridges EndE4 6b 2
94UndercutE1 5c 3
95Up In SmokeE3 5c *4
96Step AsideE1 5c 6
97Cold Shoulder
-
HVS 5b 4
98BreakoutHVS 2
99Fast Flow 1E1 5b *5
100Fast Flow 2E1 5b *4
101Fast Flow 3E2 5b *3
102Aristophanes Plays With TimeE3 6a *3
103Turn Back TimeE2 5b 2
104Surprise SurpriseE1 5b *1
105Waiting GameHVS 5a 3
 Temple Bay - First Inlet 
107Long Awaited6c *9
108Fools Rush In6c+ **5
109Lasting ImpressionsE3 * 
110Dross of 866b *8
111Sixty Eight Plus One6b 12
112Blow me, Another one5c *14
113Matt Of The Iron Gland6a *12
114Wrecker's Bay6a+ *12
115Surly Temple6a+ *11
 Temple Bay - Second Inlet 
117Themis Is Out Of Order6a+ *3
118Alchemy of Error6a 3
119Ow7a 2
120300 Spartans6b *3
121Sliced Up At Thermopylae6a 3
122Sharpshitter6c *1
123Minsir6c *3
124Leonidas Last Breakfast6a+ 3
125Tip Ripper6c *4
126Achilles Hasn't A Foot To Stand On6b+ *8
127Euclid's Theorem6a *9
128Gift Of The Gods6b+ 4
129Gods Of Long Ashton6a 7
130Dark Force Of Glamorgan6a 6
131All Greek To Me5c 6
132One Less For The Spoiler4c 6
133JerichoE3 5c  
134Medusa Spares No Head6a+ 3
135Prometheus Bound5c 3
136Oceanus Aches6a 3
137Dodecanese Dalliance5b 3
 Cave Inlet 
139The Barnacle Bill6b *3
140Canaan GruntsHVS 1
141Hundred Years Of Reflection6b+ *6
142Dulce Et Decorum Est6b+ *2
143Zacchaeus Repents6b+ *3
144Chargeable Event6a *6
145Lips Off My Shofarot6a+ *8
146Lane Discipline6a+ *5
147Hogging The Mid Lane6b *7
148Life in the Slow Lane6b+ *1
149Life In The Slow LaneHVS 7
150Quiet Flows The Don5b 6
151Heading For A Sea Of Tears5c 6
152Sultan's Spring5c 3
153Blowing The Ram's HornVS 1
154Climb A Sycamore TreeHVS 1
155TumbledownHS 2
156Consequentialist PerfectionismHVS 1
157Nietzche's Niche5c *6
158Reverted Revisionist6a+ *13
159Cartesian Dualism5b *14
160Descarte's Dithers5c *18
161Archimedes Screws6a+ *15
162The Burning Glass6b **6
163Siege Of Syracuse6b **7
 Long Wall 
165Socrates Sucks5c 6
166Kant Hooks4c *11
167Rude BuoysHS 1
168Sartres FliesM 5
169Sartre's UnderlayVS 5
170The Carpetbagger4c *5
171Fermat's Last Theorem5b *6
172Oreste's Suffering6a+ *7
173The Probing Proctologist6a *5
174Electra's Revenge5c 8
175Jim'll Fix It
-
VS 5a 3
176Now Then Now ThenVS 4c 2
177Method of ExhaustionHS 4b 2
178Reductio Ad Absurdum
-
VD 3
179Ad InfinitumS 2
 Moved climbs from Temple bay cave 
181Ankor watV4 3
182Ankor thomV3 **3
183Heading to the lightV2 3
184Sagrada familiaV8+ **1
185LuxorV5 **3
186El miradorV0 3
187King Soloman'sV7 **2
188Tweeter and the monkey manV1 **3
189KashmirV1 3
 Routes Added from Rockfax Book 

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