Climbs 186
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude Tidal
Faces SW

SuperSizeMe F7c, Witches Point © simon rawlinson

Crag features

One of the best sports climbings spots in the South of Britain. The rocks is like Lower Pen Trwyn.Hanging By A Thread (F6c) is one of the best of its grade anywhere, Edge-Hog (F7b+), Masada (F8a) and Staple Diet (F7b) are all 3 star routes.

There are a lot of shorter routes on the sea walls on the tip itself.

Approach notes

Witches Tip is only accessible an hour or two either side of low water. The main crags are rarely affected by the tide, but you can get cut off in the corner of the beach an hour either side of high water. If you'll potentially be climbing whilst the tide is in its advisable to inform the staff in the small shop situated in the car park that you plan to do so, as they'll call out the coastguard if anyone appears to be stranded on the point.
Sea Walls are affected if there is heavy swell.
Approach from Southerndown (Dunraven Bay). Park in P&Disp car park and cross the beach, or walk over the headland to the W side of the point facing Dunraven Bay.

Guidebooks

South Wales Sport Climbs

South Wales Sport Climbs covers the area to the south of the Brecon Beacons, spanning the land and sea cliffs from the River Wye on the Welsh border to Pembrokeshire in the west. The area is home to a wealth of sport climbing on a multitude of venues ranging from small inland quarries to extensive limestone sea cliffs.
More info
These problems are very good - good rock although landings can be a bit awkward particularly if you don't have lots of mats - I bouldered extensively here in the 90s and have probably done most of those described
Eugetj - 30/Jan/15
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Stone Wings Cliff
2 Waiting Wuss Open Project 1  
3 Liassic Lark 7a * 103
4 In Search Of Bedrock 7a+ * 13
5 Wilma !!!! Help Me Look For My Bedsocks 7c * 1
6 Help Me, Help Me Rhondda 7c ** 46
7 The Dai Vinci Coed 7c ** 6
8 Methuselah 8a *** 2
9 This god Is Mine 7b+ *** 74
10 Masada 8a+ *** 44
11 Stone Wings E5 * 2
12 The Uninvited Guest 7b+ 7
13 Mr. T. 8a+ ** 1
14 Super Size Me 7c+ ** 12
15 Staple Diet 7b *** 139
16 Tragic Moustache 7a ** 32
17 Five O'Clock Shadow 6c+ ** 49
18 Magic Touch 6b ** 51
19 Pelagic Mush 6a+ * 106
20 Sideburn 6b+ * 69
21 Spear The Bearded Clam 6b 72
22 Slurp The Savoury Oyster 5c 21
  Dunraven Cliff
24 Tufa Joy 7a 12
25 Tufa At The Top 7a ** 44
26 Its Tufa At The Bottom 7a+ * 8
27 Tufa Tennis 6c * 20
28 PCB 6a 37
29 Croeso-I-Gymru 6b+ ** 44
30 World vs Gibson 7a ** 33
31 Straining At The Leash 7b ** 7
32 Leave It To The Dogs 7a+ ** 10
33 There's Life In The Old Dog Yet 6c+ * 53
34 Plus Ca Change 7b * 8
35 Hanging By A Thread 6c *** 200
36 Edge-More 7c 5
37 Edge Hog 7b+ *** 30
38 Grow Up 7c * 3
39 Pasty = Man Boobs 4a 36
40 Young, Gifted and Beige 4a 15
41 The Overlook 7b+ * 4
42 Anchors Away 6b+ * 12
43 Cast Adrift 6c * 16
44 Broken On The Rocks 6b * 20
45 Marooned 6b 18
  Witches Cave
47 Coc Oen 6b * 2
48 Hen Gi 5c 1
49 Triciau Newydd 5b 1
50 Pen Pridyn HS 4b 1
51 Blaidd Drwg HS 4b 3
52 Rabbit From A Hat VD 10
53 Fatman And Nob In 3+ 22
54 Gay Batman 5a 50
55 Robin's Yoghurt Supper 5a 57
56 Abra-Ker-Fucking-Dabra 5c * 74
57 Sorcerer's Assistant 6a+ * 68
58 Magic Circle 6b * 36
59 Smoke And Mirrors 6b ** 42
60 Great Expectorations 6b ** 36
61 Phlegmatic Solution 6c ** 14
62 Evil Ways 7b ** 7
63 Evil Kneeful 7a+ *** 10
64 Willie The Pimp 6c+ ** 5
65 White Witch E5  
66 Thin Lizzy 6c+ ** 27
67 Wrasse Wipe 6c * 13
68 Wrasseputin's Hypodermic Typewriter 6c * 7
69 Didymo Clogs Yer Tackle 6b * 15
70 Fishermen Pump Their Rods 6a+ 22
71 Wrasse Bandit 6b+ 9
72 Sore Wrasse 6c 5
73 Wrassetafarian 6b+ 5
74 Little Wrasse Cull 6a 8
75 Little Wrasse Turd HS 1
76 Little Wrasse Tickler HS 2
77 Chateau Lefat 69 HS 1
78 Fishermen Mash Their Bait HS 1
79 The Bedraggled Trousered Misogynist 5c 2
  Witches Tip Main Cliff
81 Betty Swallocks E4 6a/b 1
82 Paternoster E3 5c ** 1
83 It's All Bollocks E2 6b 2
84 Fishermen's Friend E2 5b 1
85 Royal Headache E3 6b 1
86 Jilter's Wall
-
E2 5c 4
87 Wanker's Crack/Professor's Crack
-
VS 4b 5
88 Leg over E4 6a 1
89 Pullover E3 6a 2
90 Hand Over E1 5a 1
91 Gloss Over E3 5b 1
92 No Push Over E2 5c 1
93 Eugene's Over
-
E1 5c 2
94 Crossover HVS 5a  
95 How well it flows
-
HVS 5b 3
96 Arcana
-
E4 5c 1
97 Lysistera
-
E5 6a 1
98 Bridges End E4 6b 2
99 Undercut E1 5c 3
100 Up In Smoke E3 5c * 4
101 Step Aside E1 5c 6
102 Cold Shoulder
-
HVS 5b 4
103 Breakout HVS 2
104 Fast Flow 1 E1 5b * 5
105 Fast Flow 2 E1 5b * 4
106 Fast Flow 3 E2 5b * 3
107 Aristophanes Plays With Time E3 6a * 3
108 Turn Back Time E2 5b 2
109 Surprise Surprise E1 5b * 1
110 Waiting Game HVS 5a 3
  Temple Bay - First Inlet
112 Long Awaited 6c * 9
113 Fools Rush In 6c+ ** 5
114 Lasting Impressions E3 *  
115 Dross of 86 6b * 8
116 Sixty Eight Plus One 6b 12
117 Blow me, Another one 5c * 14
118 Matt Of The Iron Gland 6a * 14
119 Wrecker's Bay 6a+ * 14
120 Surly Temple 6a+ * 12
  Temple Bay - Second Inlet
122 Themis Is Out Of Order 6a+ * 3
123 Alchemy of Error 6a 3
124 Ow 7a 2
125 300 Spartans 6b * 3
126 Sliced Up At Thermopylae 6a 3
127 Sharpshitter 6c * 1
128 Minsir 6c * 3
129 Leonidas Last Breakfast 6a+ 3
130 Tip Ripper 6c * 4
131 Achilles Hasn't A Foot To Stand On 6b+ * 7
132 Euclid's Theorem 6a * 9
133 Gift Of The Gods 6b+ 4
134 Gods Of Long Ashton 6a 7
135 Dark Force Of Glamorgan 6a 6
136 All Greek To Me 5c 6
137 One Less For The Spoiler 4c 6
138 Jericho E3 5c  
139 Medusa Spares No Head 6a+ 4
140 Prometheus Bound 5c 4
141 Oceanus Aches 6a 4
142 Dodecanese Dalliance 5b 3
  Cave Inlet
144 The Barnacle Bill 6b * 3
145 Canaan Grunts HVS 1
146 Hundred Years Of Reflection 6b+ * 6
147 Dulce Et Decorum Est 6b+ * 2
148 Zacchaeus Repents 6b+ * 3
149 Chargeable Event 6a * 6
150 Lips Off My Shofarot 6a+ * 9
151 Lane Discipline 6a+ * 7
152 Hogging The Mid Lane 6b * 7
153 Life in the Slow Lane 6b+ * 1
154 Life In The Slow Lane HVS 6
155 Quiet Flows The Don 5b 8
156 Heading For A Sea Of Tears 5c 8
157 Sultan's Spring 5c 4
158 Blowing The Ram's Horn VS 1
159 Climb A Sycamore Tree HVS 1
160 Tumbledown HS 2
161 Consequentialist Perfectionism HVS 1
162 Nietzche's Niche 5c * 7
163 Reverted Revisionist 6a+ * 17
164 Cartesian Dualism 5b * 19
165 Descarte's Dithers 5c * 20
166 Archimedes Screws 6a+ * 19
167 The Burning Glass 6b ** 7
168 Siege Of Syracuse 6b ** 7
  Long Wall
170 Socrates Sucks 5c 8
171 Kant Hooks 4c * 20
172 Rude Buoys HS 3
173 Sartres Flies M 7
174 Sartre's Underlay VS 6
175 The Carpetbagger 4c * 15
176 Fermat's Last Theorem 5b * 15
177 Oreste's Suffering 6a+ * 9
178 The Probing Proctologist 6a * 8
179 Electra's Revenge 5c 14
180 Jim'll Fix It
-
VS 5a 3
181 Now Then Now Then VS 4c 2
182 Method of Exhaustion HS 4b 2
183 Reductio Ad Absurdum
-
VD 3
184 Ad Infinitum S 2
  Moved climbs from Temple bay cave
186 Ankor wat V4 3
187 Ankor thom V3 ** 3
188 Heading to the light V2 3
189 Sagrada familia V8+ ** 1
190 Luxor V5 ** 3
191 El mirador V0 3
192 King Soloman's V7 ** 2
193 Tweeter and the monkey man V1 ** 3
194 Kashmir V1 3
  Routes Added from Rockfax Book

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