Climbs 224
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 7m a.s.l
Faces SW

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SuperSizeMe F7c, Witches Point © simon rawlinson

Crag features

Witches Point is one of the jewels in the crown of hard sport climbing in South Wales. The setting is stunning - an idyllic position above a magnificent 'blue flag' sandy surf beach; in the summer months it takes on a holiday atmosphere. All of the cliffs have good rock and the variety of climbing style ranges from powerful to technical and sustained. The only drawbacks are that it is tidal and conditions can be frustrating in humid warm weather.

On the other side of the headland at Witches Point is a collection of tidal low walls. This is Temple Bay. These contain a number of short sport routes in a pleasant seaside environment. The style of climbing varies from thin technical walls to overhanging faces and juggy roof stacks. Although not in the same class as the best on offer at Witches Point, there is plenty here to keep those after a bit of mileage busy, the grade range is friendly and the beach is superb.

Approach notes

Witches Tip is only accessible an hour or two either side of low water. The main crags are rarely affected by the tide, but you can get cut off in the corner of the beach an hour either side of high water. If you'll potentially be climbing whilst the tide is in its advisable to inform the staff in the small shop situated in the car park that you plan to do so, as they'll call out the coastguard if anyone appears to be stranded on the point.
Sea Walls are affected if there is heavy swell.
Approach from Southerndown (Dunraven Bay). Park in P&Disp car park and cross the beach, or walk over the headland to the W side of the point facing Dunraven Bay.

Access Advice

National Coastwatch Institution station

We always endeavour to establish whether people climbing up cliffs or at the bottom of cliffs in this area are indeed rock climbers, but some days we have climbers who climb with the minimum of gear, so it’s sometimes a little difficult to see what's going on and identify a tidal cut-off from a bona-fide climber.

We would respectfully offer a service that, when persons go climbing, they can consider giving us a call to inform us of their climb and to avoid confusion, also we can keep an eye on them in case of any issues.

Ultimately, we want to avoid wasting people’s time with unnecessary Coastguard callouts and also not to disrupt climbing activity.

Our contact number is 01656 782936. Hours are 0900 to 1700 Mon to Wed, 0900 to 2100 Thur to Sun (Summer). Reduced hours in winter, generally 0900 to 1600 daily. 

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Guidebooks

South Wales Sport Climbs

South Wales Sport Climbs covers the area to the south of the Brecon Beacons, spanning the land and sea cliffs from the River Wye on the Welsh border to Pembrokeshire in the west. The area is home to a wealth of sport climbing on a multitude of venues ranging from small inland quarries to extensive limestone sea cliffs.
More info
These problems are very good - good rock although landings can be a bit awkward particularly if you don't have lots of mats - I bouldered extensively here in the 90s and have probably done most of those described
Eugetj - 30/Jan/15
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Fossil Block Southerndown
2 Left Lip f6C+ ** 1
3 Left Arête Sit f6B+ ** 1
4 Back Roof f6C ** 1
5 The Switch f7A+ ** 1
6 Low Roller f7A * 1
7 Fossil Problem f6A *** 1
8 Groove Armada f7B+ ** 1
9 Right Arête f5 * 1
  Stone Wings Cliff
11 Waiting Wuss Open Project
-
Project  
12 Liassic Lark 7a * 136
13 In Search of Bedrock 7a+ * 13
14 Wilma !!!! Help Me Look For My Bedsocks 7c * 1
15 Help Me, Help Me Rhondda 7c ** 48
16 The Dai Vinci Coed 7c ** 21
17 Methuselah 8a *** 8
18 This god is Mine 7b+ *** 81
19 Masada 8a+ *** 37
20 Stone Wings E5 * 2
21 The Uninvited Guest 7b+ 7
22 Mr. T. 8a+ ** 1
23 Super Size Me 7c+ ** 17
24 Staple Diet 7b *** 161
25 Tragic Moustache 7a ** 52
26 Five O'Clock Shadow 6c+ ** 48
27 Dolphin Shadow 6c * 1
28 Magic Touch 6b ** 76
29 Dolphin Gas 6b * 1
30 Pelagic Mush 6a+ * 144
31 Sideburn 6b+ * 78
32 Spear the Bearded Clam 6b 88
33 Slurp The Savoury Oyster 5c 25
  Dunraven Cliff
35 Tufa King Hard 6c+ 1
36 Tufa Joy 7a 12
37 Tufa at the Top 7a ** 52
38 Its Tufa at the Bottom 7a+ * 9
39 Tufa Tennis 6c * 21
40 PCB 6a 50
41 Croeso I Gymru 6b+ ** 62
42 The World-v-Gibson 7a ** 41
43 Straining at the Leash 7b ** 8
44 Leave it to the Dogs 7a+ ** 15
45 There's Life in the Old Dog Yet 6c+ * 60
46 Plus ça Change 7b * 8
47 Hanging by a Thread 6c *** 208
48 Edge-More 7c 5
49 Edge-Hog 7b+ *** 36
50 Grow-Up! 7c * 4
51 Pasty = Man Boobs 4a 40
52 Kiddies Corner HD * 1
53 Young, Gifted and Beige 4a 18
54 The Overlook 7b+ * 5
55 Anchors Away 6b+ * 14
56 Cast Adrift 6c * 16
57 Broken on the Rocks 6b * 22
58 Marooned 6b 19
59 Short Project Project  
  Witches Cave
61 One for Jack HD *** 1
62 Diawl Bach 6b+ 5
63 Drewgi 5b 8
64 Mewn Cachiad 5b 7
65 Pwdin Blew 6a+ 4
66 Cachau Hwch 5b 7
67 Twmpus HVS 5b *** 1
68 Coc Oen 6b * 6
69 Twll Tin 6b 5
70 Wnco Mwnco 6b+ * 3
71 Onco Fonco 6b 4
72 Hen Gi 6a+ 5
73 Triciau Newydd 5b 4
74 Pen Pidyn HS 4b 1
75 Blaidd Drwg HS 4b 3
76 Rabbit From A Hat VD 11
77 Fatman and Nob In 3c 26
78 Gay Batman 5a 71
Climb name Grade
79 Robin's Yoghurt Supper 5a 80
80 Abra-Ker-Fucking-Dabra 5c * 96
81 Sorcerer's Assistant 6a+ * 77
82 Magic Circle 6b * 45
83 Smoke and Mirrors 6b ** 49
84 Great Expectorations 6b ** 40
85 Phlegmatic Solution 6c ** 14
86 Evil Ways 7b ** 11
87 Evil K'nee Full 7a+ *** 11
88 Willie The Pimp 6c+ ** 6
89 White Witch E5 1
90 Thin Lizzy 6c+ ** 30
91 Wrasse Wipe 6c * 13
92 Wrasseputin's Hypodermic Typewriter 6c * 9
93 Didymo Clogs Yer Tackle 6b * 16
94 Fishermen Pump Their Rods 6a+ 23
95 Wrasse Bandit 6b+ 9
96 Sore Wrasse 6c 5
97 Wrassetafarian 6b+ 5
98 Little Wrasse Cull 6a 8
99 Little Wrasse Turd HS 1
100 Little Wrasse Tickler HS 2
101 Chateau Lefat 69 HS 1
102 Fishermen Mash Their Bait HS 1
103 The Bedraggled Trousered Misogynist 5c 4
104 Bryn Serth 6b * 2
105 Blaidd Den 6a+ ** 2
106 Gwyll 6a * 2
107 Ysgubwr Simneiau MS 1
108 Sand in the vaselin 7a+ ***  
109 Gwylan LLwglyd 5b 1
  Witches Tip Main Cliff
111 Betty Swallocks E4 6a/b 1
112 Paternoster E3 5c ** 1
113 It's All Bollocks E2 6b 2
114 Fishermen's Friend E2 5b 1
115 Royal Headache E3 6b 1
116 Jilter's Wall
-
E2 5c 4
117 Wanker's Crack/Professor's Crack
-
VS 4b 5
118 Leg over E4 6a 1
119 Pullover E3 6a 2
120 Hand Over E1 5a 1
121 Gloss Over E3 5b 1
122 No Push Over E2 5c 1
123 Eugene's Over
-
E1 5c 2
124 Crossover HVS 5a  
125 How Well It Flows
-
HVS 5b 3
126 Arcana
-
E4 5c 1
127 Lysistera
-
E5 6a 1
128 Bridges End E4 6b 2
129 Undercut E1 5c 3
130 Up In Smoke E3 5c * 4
131 Step Aside E1 5c 6
132 Cold Shoulder
-
HVS 5b 4
133 Breakout HVS 2
134 Fast Flow 1 E1 5b * 5
135 Fast Flow 2 E1 5b * 4
136 Fast Flow 3 E2 5b * 3
137 The Inexorable March Of Time 6b+ * 2
138 Aristophanes Plays with Time E3 6a * 3
139 Turn Back Time E2 5b 2
140 Down the Mists of Time
-
E2 5b 2
141 Surprise Surprise E1 5b * 1
142 Waiting Game HVS 5a 3
  Temple Bay - First Inlet
144 Long Awaited 6c * 9
145 Fools Rush In 6c+ ** 6
146 Lasting Impressions E3 * 1
147 Dross of 86 6b * 8
148 Life and Soul HVS 5a  
149 Sixty Eight Plus One 6b 13
150 Blow Me, Another One 5c * 18
151 Matt of the Iron Gland 6a * 18
152 Wrecker's Bay 6a+ * 16
153 Surly Temple 6a+ * 14
  Temple Bay - Second Inlet
155 Themis is Out of Order 6a+ * 3
156 Alchemy of Error 6a 3
Climb name Grade
157 OW! 7a 2
158 300 Spartans 6b * 3
159 Sliced Up at Thermopylae 6a 3
160 Sharpshitter 6c * 1
161 Minsir 6c * 3
162 Leonidas' Last Breakfast 6a+ 3
163 Tip Ripper 6c * 5
164 Achilles Hasn't a Foot to Stand On 6b+ * 7
165 Euclid's Theorem 6a * 9
166 Gift of the Gods 6b+ 4
167 Gods of Long Ashton 6a 7
168 The Dark Force of Glamorgan 6a 6
169 It's all Greek to Me 5c 6
170 One Less for the Spoiler 4c 6
171 Jericho E3 5c  
172 Medusa Spares No Head 6a+ 6
173 Prometheus Bound 5c 6
174 Oceanus Aches 6a 7
175 Dodecanese Dalliance 5b 6
  Cave Inlet
177 The Barnacle Bill 6b * 3
178 Canaan Grunts HVS 1
179 Hundred Years of Reflection 6b+ * 6
180 Dulce Et Decorum Est 6b+ * 4
181 Zacchaeus Repents 6b+ * 3
182 Chargeable Event 6a * 8
183 Lips Off My Shofarot 6a+ * 17
184 Lane Discipline 6a+ * 9
185 Hogging the Mid Lane 6b * 9
186 Life in the Slow Lane 6b+ * 6
187 Life in the Slow Lane HVS 6
188 Quiet Flows The Don 5b 9
189 Sultan's Spring 5c 6
190 Blowing The Ram's Horn VS 1
191 Climb a Sycamore Tree HVS 1
192 Tumbledown HS 2
193 Consequentialist Perfectionism HVS 1
194 Nietzche's Niche 5c * 15
195 Inverted Mentalist 6b+ * 1
196 Reverted Revisionist 6a+ * 23
197 Raft of the Medusa 6c+ * 2
198 Cannibal Calypso 7a * 2
199 Swinging the Lead 6c * 1
200 Cartesian Dualism 5b * 32
201 Descartes' Dithers 5c * 32
202 Archimedes Screws 6a+ * 24
203 The Burning Glass 6b ** 9
204 Siege of Syracuse 6b ** 10
  Temple Bay Cave
206 Ankor Wat V4 3
207 Ankor Thom V3 ** 3
208 Heading to the Light V2 3
209 Sagrada Familia V8+ ** 1
210 Luxor V5 ** 3
211 El Mirador V0 3
212 King Soloman's V7 ** 2
213 Tweeter and the Monkey Man V1 ** 3
214 Kashmir V1 3
215 Converted Traditionalist 5b 1
216 Perverted Exhibitionist 6a * 1
  Long Wall
218 Socrates Sucks 5c 14
219 Kant Hooks 4c * 36
220 Rude Buoys HS 5
221 Sartre Flies M 10
222 Sartre's Underlay VS 6
223 The Carpetbagger 4c * 22
224 Fermat's Last Theorem 5b * 26
225 Oreste's Suffering 6a+ * 19
226 Electra's Revenge 5c 22
227 The Probing Proctologist 6a * 12
228 Heading for a Sea of Tears 5c 10
229 Jim'll Fix It
-
VS 5a 4
230 Now Then Now Then VS 4c 2
231 Method of Exhaustion HS 4b 3
232 Reductio Ad Absurdum
-
VD 4
233 Ad Infinitum S 2
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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