Climbs 266
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 60m a.s.l
Faces SW

simon, Berlin 7A+, Dinas Rock © simon rawlinson

Crag features

A brilliant crag with some of the best climbing in SE Wales: mostly single-pitch routes upto 30m. Often steep, smooth face climbing; harder routes may need dusting off. Most of the routes are now sports routes.

Approach notes

Take the A465 and Glyn Neath Rd (via B4242) to Pontneddfechan. An unclassified road then follows the Afon Sychryd river upstream to a sharp right at a bridge, then the car park. Climbers are asked to avoid parking in the residents parking areas on the approach road, and wherever possible consider sharing transport to minimise the number of cars required.

Take the path to the left from the car park for the main face, heading over the hill, right at the fork, and then right at the river to get to the main cliff.

For the roadside crags and Kennelgarth, take the more obvious track on the right. It is also possible to reach the upper crags by scrambling up from the river at the end of this path.

Access Advice

An SSSI and a Special Area Of Conservation, the vegetation in the gorge area is especially important. Among the rare species to be found in the area are Scarce Turf-moss, Tunbridge Filmy-fern, Deratocarpon miniatum and Rock Fingerwort. The rock face and exposures are also nationally important geological features. Vegetation clearance and modification of the rock faces is to be avoided without prior consent from the Forestry Commisson and the clearance of trees and undergrowth has in the past has led to the real threat of access restrictions.

Guidebooks

South Wales Sport Climbs

South Wales Sport Climbs covers the area to the south of the Brecon Beacons, spanning the land and sea cliffs from the River Wye on the Welsh border to Pembrokeshire in the west. The area is home to a wealth of sport climbing on a multitude of venues ranging from small inland quarries to extensive limestone sea cliffs.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Gower & South-East Wales (2004)
Gower & SE Wales (1991)

Out of print:
What would be the best guide book for this carg and where can I get it? Thanks, Kris.
Kris suriyo - 08/Jan/14
This website has lots of useful info (topos etc): http://27crags.com/crags/dinas-rock
Paulos - 03/Mar/12
For the Main Face, you can belay through your sunroof ! Watch out for friable rock at the top; scary when you are leading, annoying when competing centre groups are abseiling down the face and dislodging boulders.
Uncle Nick - 06/Jul/04
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Lower River Bouldering
2 All Aboard f6C+ 1
3 Lichen Up f6C+ 4
4 The Boatman's Traverse V3 9
5 The Boatman V8 *** 14
6 Captain Jack f6C+ * 4
7 Boatman Start f7A * 3
8 Fyfes Traverse f7B+ ** 2
  Car Park Bouldering
10 The Splinch VB ** 7
11 The Ramp V2 * 12
12 Rampless V5 ** 5
13 Railed V3 ** 8
14 Car Park Original V1 ** 10
15 Halfway V4 * 5
  Roadside
17 Evening Wall VD ** 28
18 Flake Wall HD 4a 2
19 Slickenside E2 5c 5
20 Frizzy Bits E2 5c * 5
21 Jeepers Creepers HVS 5a 23
22 Sense of Humour E2 5c 3
23 Fromage Frais 5c * 159
24 Outdoor Group Avoidance D 1
  Cheesy Rider Area
26 Rob Roy 7a ** 98
27 Cheesy Rider 6b+ ** 77
28 Creme De Roquefort 6b+ * 18
29 Creme de Rockfall 6b+ 43
30 Scraping The Barrel 6a+ 50
31 Tapping The Keg 6c 35
  Inflated Roundhead Area
33 Pinheads 6c 5
34 Skin Ed 7c ** 19
35 The Inflated Roundhead 7a+ * 79
36 Charlie's Rusks 6c * 57
37 The Deflated Dick-Head 6b * 111
38 Mr Potato Head 6a+ * 97
39 Pot Head 5c 95
40 The Dented Cavalier
-
E1 5a 6
41 The Dumbfounded Dunderhead 6b 55
42 Smeghead 4c * 140
43 Bonehead 5b 81
44 The People's Democratic Republic Of Maesteg 6a 88
  Love of Ivy Area
46 Connect One 6a 54
47 South West Guru 6b 41
48 Deadly Nightshade 6c * 27
49 Screaming Lampshades 6c+ 19
50 Big Ears Takes Flight 6b+ 7
51 The Wake 6b+ * 7
52 Bob's Birthday Party 6b * 10
53 Cujo 6c * 7
54 Thinner 7a * 11
55 The Running Man 7a * 17
56 Miss Alto 6b * 22
57 For The Love Of Ivy HVS 6
58 The Regulators 7c * 14
59 The De-Regulators 7a+ * 42
60 Beware of Poachers 6c+ * 62
61 Open Roads 6b+ * 55
62 Squash The Squaddie 6b+ * 50
63 Thousand Yard Stare 6c+ * 31
64 Pugsley 7a * 31
65 Munsterosity 7a+ * 26
66 Morticia 7a 70
  Kennelgarth Wall
68 Technitis 6c 9
69 By Proxy 7a 9
70 Out Come The Freaks 7a+ 6
71 Fings Ain't What They Used To Be 7b+ ** 11
72 Kennelgarth 7b+ * 2
73 Siberian Husky 7b+ * 1
74 Tufa 8a+ 3
75 Eugene's High Point 7b+ 1
  Lower Cave Area
77 The Dandelion Slab 7a 2
78 Rose-Line 7b+ *** 43
79 Watchmen 7b *** 12
80 Smashed Rat 7c *** 8
81 Sangreal 7b+ *** 13
82 Sangria Finish 7b+ 2
83 Basilica 7b+ ** 4
84 Tiger Cut 7c+  
85 Rat On A Hot Tin Roof 7b *** 37
86 The First Step To Enlightenment 5a 7
87 Strider Direct HVS 5a * 4
  Bridge Cliff
89 Kick the Dog Next Door E2 5c 1
90 Continental Touch E1 5b  
91 Torrents of Spring E3 5c 1
92 Torrent Direct A0 1
93 Black Fox
-
E4 6b  
94 Cool Hand Fluke
-
E3 5c 1
95 Running Blind
-
E4 6b  
  Main Cliff
97 Pis En Lit 6b 36
98 Illegal Congress 6b 11
99 Family Values 6a+ 11
100 Stray Cats 7a * 7
101 Puss Off 7a * 5
102 Each Way Nudger 6b+ * 10
103 When Push Comes To Shove 7a+ * 4
104 When Push Comes To Shove (Direct Finish) 7b 5
105 Call a Spade a Spade 6c * 47
106 Totally Radish 6c * 41
107 Finger Pinch E3 5c 3
108 Durbin Two, Watson Nil 7c * 3
109 The Road To Eldorado 5a * 69
110 Giant Killer E6 * 2
111 Mortal Kombat 8b *** 2
112 Dina Crac E9 ***  
113 Gorilliant 7a * 9
114 Sport Wars 8a ** 4
115 Spore Wars 7b+ ** 3
116 Bloody Sport Climbers! 8a ** 9
117 Bloody Link Ups! 8a 1
118 Bloody Spore Climbers! 8a * 2
119 Captain Barbarossa 8a ** 3
120 The Black Pearl 8a *** 2
121 H1N1 8a ** 33
122 Subversive Body Pumping 7b+ * 9
123 Dinasty 8a *** 5
124 Powers That Be 7c ** 4
125 Hayabusa 7c+ ** 14
126 Berlin 7a+ *** 180
127 Berlin Extension 7b *** 52
128 Still Life 7b+ *** 30
129 Just In Time 7c ** 3
130 Outta Time 7c+ *** 6
131 Last of the Big Time link ups! E6 ** 1
132 The Big Time E6 **  
133 Chives Of Freedom 7c ** 16
134 Crock Of Gold 7c ** 9
135 Crock of Shit 7c ** 2
136 Salem's Lot 7b+ ** 5
137 The Sharp Cereal Professor 7b *** 62
138 Muchas Maracas 7c ** 4
139 Harlem 7b+ *** 34
140 Hawaiian Chance 7c * 2
141 Spain E4 *** 7
142 Groovy Tube Day E2 ** 19
143 Dr. Van Steiner 7a+ 1
  Terrace Cliff
145 Academy Awards 6c ** 15
146 Dream Academy Right Hand 6b+ ** 5
147 Dream Academy 6c ** 20
148 El Camino Del Roy 6c+ ** 20
149 Danny La Rue 7a+ 9
150 Incidentally X 7b+ * 8
151 Tortilla Flats 7b * 1
152 Pour Marcel 7b * 1
153 Brazilian Blend 6c+ ** 3
154 Sverige 7a * 2
155 Ma's Strict 7a+ * 1
156 Breakout 6c ** 2
157 Vitamin Z 7a 1
  Regulation Wall Bouldering
159 Rocknrolla f5+ * 6
160 Rocknrolla (SDS) f6C+ ** 3
161 Slippy Slab f5+ 7
162 Gay and Grey f5+ 6
163 Rock Out f4 10
164 1 Inch Punch f6A 3
165 Boba Fet Touched my Wang f6A+ 1
166 Simon's Traverse f6C+ * 15
167 Simons 'full' Traverse f7B+ ** 4
168 Green Room f6B+ 3
169 Green Room Righthand V4 1
170 The Prow (Sit Start) f5+ 8
  Kennelgarth Bouldering
172 Achilles f6B+ * 86
173 V0- V0- 15
174 Byte Size f5+ * 192
175 Ton Sixty V4 * 8
176 Monkey Magic f6C * 52
177 Monkey Boy f6B * 91
178 Banana Boy f7A 43
179 Paper Boy f7A 58
180 Puppy Love f6A * 97
181 Team Puppy Explosion f6C * 6
182 Dogtown f6C ** 19
183 Gentle Jess Crouch Start f6C+ *** 108
184 Gentle Jess Sit Down Start f7A *** 95
185 The Groove f7A+ 60
186 Infidel f7A 38
187 The Mongrel Mob f7A+ 52
188 Poodle Traverse f6A * 143
189 Poodle Traverse (Footless) f6C+ * 37
190 Low Down f7A ** 4
191 Great White Starke f6A ** 63
192 Starke Attack f6A * 42
193 Flying High f7A+ * 3
194 Made By Magic f7C 7
195 Mr Magic f7C+ *** 13
196 The Magic Cat f7B ** 11
197 Riding Hannah f7A 51
198 The Honey Pot f6C+ 111
199 Fat Cat Roof f7C *** 88
200 Fat Cat Direct f7C+ * 3
201 Fat Cats Roof + Taylor Made f7C+ 12
202 Fat Cat Roof + Fyfe Extension f7C 7
203 Taylor Made f7B+ * 36
204 Taylor Made Eliminate f7C ** 8
205 Taylor Made Footless f8A 4
206 Paul Walker f7C 3
207 Nectar f7C 2
208 Neonicotinoid f7C+ 1
209 Stray f7B 3
210 The Blessing f7A 52
211 The Blessing + Fyfe Extension f7A * 9
212 Shamu f7B+ ** 23
213 The Life of Fyfe f7B+ *** 48
214 Life Of Fyfe Original f7C *** 12
215 The Riot f7C+ *** 15
216 The Carpenters Apprentice f8A+ 7
217 Saluki f7B+ ** 27
218 Sultan Of Swing f7B+ ** 2
219 Launch Pad f6C 6a *** 102
220 Launch Pad (LH) f7A * 54
221 Launch Pad Crack Start f7A+ 8
222 Stoned f7A * 30
223 Anthill f7A 14
224 Chasing the Tail f6B 12
225 Shiny Beast f7A+ 14
226 Gentle Jess Direct f7B+ * 2
227 Ramsay f7A 2
  Kennelgarth Bouldering Traverses
229 The Wrath of Achilles f7C ** 10
230 Lowlife f7C+ ** 6
231 Body Cat f7C+ 4
232 Checkpoint Charlie f7C+ * 1
233 Throbbin's Traverse f8A 5
234 Body Wisdom f8A ** 2
235 Wife of Fyfe f8A+ *** 3
236 Low Wife f8A ** 1
  River Blocs Bouldering
238 Goonies Arete f6A 4
239 Green Fingers f5+ 6
240 Devolution f4+ 4
241 Solution Traverse f5 3
242 Pollution f5+ 2
243 Pauls Arete f6C+ * 4
244 Gut Lord f5+ 5
245 Pauls Problem f6C 5
246 Evolution f7A+ *** 20
247 Revolution f6C+ * 6
248 Illiminution f7A ** 3
249 Oh Heavan f4+ * 1
250 Shangri-La f5+ * 1
  Main Crag Bouldering
252 Dog Nut f6C+ 6b+ ** 8
253 Return of the Midgets f5 3
254 Saturday Shuffle f4+ 4
255 Roof Warrior f5 3
256 Tiny Hands f5+ 3
257 Goodbye Gary Goodtimes f7A * 3
258 Rampant Rabbit Return f6C+ * 5
259 Awesome Shed f7B+ * 13
260 Awesome Shed Direct f7B+ * 8
261 Evil More Sideways f8A+ * 1
262 Evil Sideways f8A+ 2
263 Fu Man Who f7C+ * 2
264 Fu Man Chu f7C+ ** 3
265 Mega Ten Original f7C+ ** 3
266 Mega Ten Reclimbed f8A ** 3
267 Boy Racer f7C ** 28
268 Jet Blue f7C ** 15
269 Butch Cassidy f8A *** 7
270 Jed Black f8A *** 5
271 Berlin Sit Start f6C+ * 28
272 How Soon Is Now f7B ** 2
273 The SS f7B * 2
274 Dash berlin f7C ** 2
275 Kim Jong V3 7
276 The Sharp Cereal Confessor V3 6
  Silver Surfer Area Bouldering
278 Upperboat Man f6A *** 2
279 Go with the flow f6B * 1
280 Berlin reich hand f7A * 3
  Unknown / unverified
282 Skinny Dog direct f7A+ ** 2
283 SWBG Route 2 V0- 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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