Climbs 262
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 60m a.s.l
Faces SW

simon, Berlin 7A+, Dinas Rock © simon rawlinson

Crag features

A brilliant crag with some of the best climbing in SE Wales: mostly single-pitch routes upto 30m. Often steep, smooth face climbing; harder routes may need dusting off. Most of the routes are now sports routes.

Approach notes

Take the A465 and Glyn Neath Rd (via B4242) to Pontneddfechan. An unclassified road then follows the Afon Sychryd river upstream to a sharp right at a bridge, then the car park. Climbers are asked to avoid parking in the residents parking areas on the approach road, and wherever possible consider sharing transport to minimise the number of cars required.

Take the path to the left from the car park for the main face, heading over the hill, right at the fork, and then right at the river to get to the main cliff.

For the roadside crags and Kennelgarth, take the more obvious track on the right. It is also possible to reach the upper crags by scrambling up from the river at the end of this path.

Access Advice

An SSSI and a Special Area Of Conservation, the vegetation in the gorge area is especially important. Among the rare species to be found in the area are Scarce Turf-moss, Tunbridge Filmy-fern, Deratocarpon miniatum and Rock Fingerwort. The rock face and exposures are also nationally important geological features. Vegetation clearance and modification of the rock faces is to be avoided without prior consent from the Forestry Commisson and the clearance of trees and undergrowth has in the past has led to the real threat of access restrictions.


South Wales Sport Climbs

South Wales Sport Climbs covers the area to the south of the Brecon Beacons, spanning the land and sea cliffs from the River Wye on the Welsh border to Pembrokeshire in the west. The area is home to a wealth of sport climbing on a multitude of venues ranging from small inland quarries to extensive limestone sea cliffs.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Gower & South-East Wales (2004)
Gower & SE Wales (1991)

Out of print:
What would be the best guide book for this carg and where can I get it? Thanks, Kris.
Kris suriyo - 08/Jan/14
This website has lots of useful info (topos etc):
Paulos - 03/Mar/12
For the Main Face, you can belay through your sunroof ! Watch out for friable rock at the top; scary when you are leading, annoying when competing centre groups are abseiling down the face and dislodging boulders.
Uncle Nick - 06/Jul/04
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Lower River Bouldering 
2All Aboardf6C+ 1
3Lichen Upf6C+ 4
4The Boatman's TraverseV3 9
5The BoatmanV8 ***14
6Captain Jackf6C+ *4
7Boatman Startf7A *3
8Fyfes Traversef7B+ **2
 Car Park Bouldering 
10The SplinchVB **7
11The RampV2 *12
12RamplessV5 **5
13RailedV3 **8
14Car Park OriginalV1 **10
15HalfwayV4 *5
17Evening WallVD **25
18Flake WallHD 4a 2
19SlickensideE2 5c 5
20Frizzy BitsE2 5c *5
21Jeepers CreepersHVS 5a 23
22Sense of HumourE2 5c 3
23Fromage Frais5c *151
 Cheesy Rider Area 
25Rob Roy7a **83
26Cheesy Rider6b+ **76
27Creme De Roquefort6b+ *18
28Creme de Rockfall6b+ 43
29Scraping The Barrel6a+ 50
30Tapping The Keg6c 35
 Inflated Roundhead Area 
32Pinheads6c 5
33Skin Ed7c **19
34The Inflated Roundhead7a+ *72
35Charlie's Rusks6c *57
36The Deflated Dick-Head6b *108
37Mr Potato Head6a+ *91
38Pot Head5c 89
39The Dented Cavalier
E1 5a 6
40The Dumbfounded Dunderhead6b 55
41Smeghead4c *134
42Bonehead5b 76
43Tithead6a 31
44The People's Democratic Republic Of Maesteg6a 55
 Love of Ivy Area 
46Connect One6a 51
47South West Guru6b 41
48Deadly Nightshade6c *27
49Screaming Lampshades6c+ 19
50Big Ears Takes Flight6b+ 7
51The Wake6b+ *7
52Bob's Birthday Party6b *10
53Cujo6c *7
54Thinner7a *11
55The Running Man7a *17
56Miss Alto6b *22
57For The Love Of IvyHVS 6
58The Regulators7c *13
59The De-Regulators7a+ *37
60Beware of Poachers6c+ *59
61Open Roads6b+ *53
62Squash The Squaddie6b+ *48
63Thousand Yard Stare6c+ *31
64Pugsley7a *28
65Munsterosity7a+ *26
66Morticia7a 67
 Kennelgarth Wall 
68Technitis6c 9
69By Proxy7a 9
70Out Come The Freaks7a+ 6
71Fings Ain't What They Used To Be7b+ **11
72Kennelgarth7b+ *2
73Siberian Husky7b+ *1
74Tufa8a+ 2
75Eugene's High Point7b+ 1
 Lower Cave Area 
77The Dandelion Slab7a 2
78Rose-Line7b+ ***44
79Watchmen7b ***11
80Smashed Rat7c ***8
81Sangreal7b+ ***9
82Sangria Finish7b+ 2
83Basilica7b+ **4
84Tiger Cut7c+  
85Rat On A Hot Tin Roof7b ***36
86The First Step To Enlightenment5a 7
87Strider DirectHVS 5a *4
 Bridge Cliff 
89Kick the Dog Next Door *E2 5c 1
90Continental Touch *E1 5b  
91Torrents of Spring *E3 5c 1
92Torrent Direct *A0 1
93Black Fox *
E4 6b  
94Running Blind *
E4 6b  
95Cool Hand Fluke *
E3 5c 1
 Main Cliff 
97Pis En Lit6b 36
98Illegal Congress6b 11
99Family Values6a+ 11
100Stray Cats7a *7
101Puss Off7a *5
102Each Way Nudger6b+ *9
103When Push Comes To Shove7a+ *4
104When Push Comes To Shove (Direct Finish)7b 5
105Call a Spade a Spade6c *45
106Totally Radish6c *40
107Finger PinchE3 5c 3
108Durbin Two, Watson Nil7c *3
109The Road To Eldorado5a *69
110Giant KillerE6 *2
111Mortal Kombat8b ***2
112Dina CracE9 *** 
113Gorilliant7a *9
114Sport Wars8a **4
115Spore Wars7b+ **3
116Bloody Sport Climbers!8a **6
117Bloody Link Ups!8a 1
118Bloody Spore Climbers!8a *2
119Captain Barbarossa8a **3
120The Black Pearl8a ***2
121H1N18a **23
122Subversive Body Pumping7b+ *5
123Dinasty8a ***2
124Powers That Be7c **4
125Hayabusa7c+ **14
126Berlin7a+ ***165
127Berlin Extension7b ***46
128Still Life7b+ ***14
129Just In Time7c **3
130Outta Time7c+ ***6
131Last of the Big Time link ups!E6 **1
132The Big TimeE6 ** 
133Chives Of Freedom7c **10
134Crock Of Gold7c **8
135Crock of Shit7c **2
136Salem's Lot7b+ **5
137The Sharp Cereal Professor7b ***49
138Muchas Maracas7c **4
139Harlem7b+ ***33
140Hawaiian Chance7c *2
141SpainE4 ***7
142Groovy Tube DayE2 **19
143Dr. Van Steiner7a+ 1
 Terrace Cliff 
145Academy Awards6c **15
146Dream Academy Right Hand6b+ **5
147Dream Academy6c **21
148El Camino Del Roy6c+ **20
149Danny La Rue7a+ 9
150Incidentally X7b+ *8
151Tortilla Flats7b *1
152Pour Marcel7b *1
153Brazilian Blend6c+ **3
154Sverige7a *2
155Ma's Strict7a+ *1
156Breakout6c **2
157Vitamin Z7a 1
 Regulation Wall Bouldering 
159Rocknrollaf5+ *6
160Rocknrolla (SDS)f6C+ **3
161Slippy Slabf5+ 8
162Gay and Greyf5+ 6
163Rock Outf4 11
1641 Inch Punchf6A 3
165Boba Fet Touched my Wangf6A+ 1
166Simon's Traversef6C+ *14
167Simons 'full' Traversef7B+ **4
168Green Roomf6B+ 2
169Green Room RighthandV4 1
170The Prow (Sit Start)f5+ 8
 Kennelgarth Bouldering 
172Achillesf6B+ *84
173V0-V0- 7
174Byte Sizef5+ *185
175Ton SixtyV4 *8
176Monkey Magicf6C *52
177Monkey Boyf6B *91
178Banana Boyf7A 42
179Paper Boyf7A 55
180Puppy Lovef6A *94
181Team Puppy Explosionf6C *5
182Dogtownf6C **19
183Gentle Jess Crouch Startf6C+ ***102
184Gentle Jess Sit Down Startf7A ***94
185The Groovef7A+ 56
186Infidelf7A 35
187The Mongrel Mobf7A+ 49
188Poodle Traversef6A *134
189Poodle Traverse (Footless)f6C+ *33
190Low Downf7A **4
191Great White Starkef6A **62
192Starke Attackf6A *42
193Made By Magicf7C 7
194Mr Magicf7C+ ***13
195The Magic Catf7B **10
196Riding Hannahf7A 48
197The Honey Potf6C+ 108
198Fat Cat Rooff7C ***87
199Fat Cat Directf7C+ *3
200Fat Cats Roof + Taylor Madef7C+ 12
201Fat Cat Roof + Fyfe Extensionf7C 7
202Taylor Madef7B+ *31
203Taylor Made Eliminatef7C **8
204Taylor Made Footlessf8A 4
205Paul Walkerf7C 2
206Nectarf7C 2
207Strayf7B 3
208The Blessingf7A 52
209The Blessing + Fyfe Extensionf7A *9
210Shamuf7B+ **23
211The Life of Fyfef7B+ ***48
212Life Of Fyfe Originalf7C ***10
213The Riotf7C+ ***16
214The Carpenters Apprenticef8A+ 7
215Salukif7B+ **26
216Sultan Of Swingf7B+ **2
217Launch Padf6C ***100
218Launch Pad (LH)f7A *54
219Launch Pad Crack Startf7A+ 8
220Stonedf7A *30
221Anthillf7A 14
222Chasing the Tailf6B 12
223Shiny Beastf7A+ 14
224Gentle Jess Directf7B+ *2
225Flying High *f7A+ *1
 Kennelgarth Bouldering Traverses 
227The Wrath of Achillesf7C **10
228Lowlifef7C+ **6
229Body Catf7C+ 4
230Checkpoint Charlief7C+ *1
231Throbbin's Traversef8A 5
232Body Wisdomf8A **2
233Wife of Fyfef8A+ ***4
234Low Wifef8A **1
 River Blocs Bouldering 
236Goonies Aretef6A 4
237Green Fingersf5+ 6
238Devolutionf4+ 4
239Solution Traversef5 3
240Pollutionf5+ 2
241Pauls Aretef6C+ *4
242Gut Lordf5+ 5
243Pauls Problemf6C 5
244Evolutionf7A+ ***20
245Revolutionf6C+ *6
246Illiminutionf7A **3
247Oh Heavanf4+ *1
248Shangri-Laf5+ *1
 Main Crag Bouldering 
250Dog Nutf6C+ **8
251Return of the Midgetsf5 3
252Saturday Shufflef4+ 4
253Roof Warriorf5 3
254Tiny Handsf5+ 3
255Goodbye Gary Goodtimesf7A *3
256Rampant Rabbit Returnf6C+ *5
257Awesome Shedf7B+ *13
258Awesome Shed Directf7B+ *8
259Evil Sidewaysf8A+ 2
260Fu Man Whof7C+ *1
261Fu Man Chuf7C+ **2
262 Mega Ten Originalf7C+ **3
263Mega Ten Reclimbedf8A **3
264Boy Racerf7C **23
265Jet Bluef7C **13
266Butch Cassidyf8A ***7
267Jed Blackf8A ***4
268Berlin Sit Startf6C+ *26
269How Soon Is Nowf7B **2
270The SSf7B *2
271Dash berlinf7C **2
272Kim JongV3 7
273The Sharp Cereal ConfessorV3 6
 Silver Surfer Area Bouldering 
275Upperboat Manf6A ***2
276Go with the flowf6B *1
277Berlin reich handf7A *3
 Unknown / unverified 
279Skinny Dog direct *f7A+ **2
280SWBG Route 2 *V0- 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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