UKC

Climbs 264
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 60m a.s.l
Faces SW

simon, Berlin 7A+, Dinas Rock © simon rawlinson

Crag features

Tucked away in a narrow gorge at the northern end of the Neath Valley, Dinas Rock is one of the best cliffs in South Wales. Its walls of high quality limestone are covered with overlaps, roofs, subtle grooves and water-worn features which combine to give some fine climbing. Technique and perserverance are needed as much as power and guile. Not all of the climbing is in the higher grades and the Roadside crags contain some very accessible routes in the lower and mid-grades.

Approach notes

Take the A465 and Glyn Neath Rd (via B4242) to Pontneddfechan. An unclassified road then follows the Afon Sychryd river upstream to a sharp right at a bridge, then the car park. Climbers are asked to avoid parking in the residents parking areas on the approach road, and wherever possible consider sharing transport to minimise the number of cars required.

Take the path to the left from the car park for the main face, heading over the hill, right at the fork, and then right at the river to get to the main cliff.

For the roadside crags and Kennelgarth, take the more obvious track on the right. It is also possible to reach the upper crags by scrambling up from the river at the end of this path.

Access Advice

An SSSI and a Special Area Of Conservation, the vegetation in the gorge area is especially important. Among the rare species to be found in the area are Scarce Turf-moss, Tunbridge Filmy-fern, Deratocarpon miniatum and Rock Fingerwort. The rock face and exposures are also nationally important geological features. Vegetation clearance and modification of the rock faces is to be avoided without prior consent from the Forestry Commisson and the clearance of trees and undergrowth has in the past has led to the real threat of access restrictions.

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Guidebooks

South Wales Sport Climbs

South Wales Sport Climbs covers the area to the south of the Brecon Beacons, spanning the land and sea cliffs from the River Wye on the Welsh border to Pembrokeshire in the west. The area is home to a wealth of sport climbing on a multitude of venues ranging from small inland quarries to extensive limestone sea cliffs.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Gower & South-East Wales (2004)
Gower & SE Wales (1991)

Out of print:
What would be the best guide book for this carg and where can I get it? Thanks, Kris.
Kris suriyo - 08/Jan/14
This website has lots of useful info (topos etc): http://27crags.com/crags/dinas-rock
Paulos - 03/Mar/12
For the Main Face, you can belay through your sunroof ! Watch out for friable rock at the top; scary when you are leading, annoying when competing centre groups are abseiling down the face and dislodging boulders.
Uncle Nick - 06/Jul/04
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Lower River Bouldering
2 All Aboard f6C+ 1
3 Lichen Up f6C+ 4
4 The Boatman's Traverse V3 9
5 The Boatman V8 *** 14
6 Captain Jack f6C+ * 4
7 Boatman Start f7A * 3
8 Fyfes Traverse f7B+ ** 2
  Car Park Bouldering
10 The Splinch VB ** 9
11 The Ramp V2 * 12
12 Rampless V5 ** 5
13 Railed V3 ** 8
14 Car Park Original V1 ** 11
15 Halfway V4 * 5
  Roadside
17 Evening Wall VD ** 31
18 Flake Wall HD 4a 2
19 Slickenside E2 5c 5
20 Frizzy Bits E2 5c * 5
21 Jeepers Creepers HVS 5a 23
22 Sense of Humour E2 5c 3
23 Fromage Frais 5c * 177
24 Outdoor Group Avoidance D 1
25 Rob Roy 7a ** 111
26 Cheesy Rider 6b+ ** 87
27 Creme de Roquefort 6b+ * 32
28 Creme de Rockfall 6b+ 43
29 Scraping the Barrel 6a+ 53
30 Tapping the Keg 6c 35
  Inflated Roundhead Area
32 Pinheads 6c 5
33 Skin Ed 7c ** 21
34 The Inflated Roundhead 7a+ * 87
35 Charlie's Rusks 6c * 63
36 The Deflated Dickhead 6b * 115
37 Mr Potato Head 6a+ * 111
38 Pot Head 5c 107
39 The Dented Cavalier
-
E1 5a 6
40 The Dumbfounded Dunderhead 6b 56
41 Smeghead 4c * 156
42 Bonehead 5b 87
43 The People's Democratic Republic of Maesteg 6a 93
  Love of Ivy Area
45 Connect One 6a 56
46 South West Guru 6b 41
47 Deadly Nightshade 6c * 27
48 Screaming Lampshades 6c+ 19
49 Big Ears Takes Flight 6b+ 7
50 The Wake 6b+ * 7
51 Bob's Birthday Party 6b * 10
52 Cujo 6c * 7
53 Thinner 7a * 11
54 The Running Man 7a * 17
55 Miss Alto 6b * 24
56 For the Love of Ivy HVS 6
57 The Regulators 7c * 13
58 The De-Regulators 7a+ * 43
59 Beware of Poachers 6c+ * 67
60 Open Roads 6b+ * 60
61 Squash the Squaddie 6b+ * 54
62 Thousand Yard Stare 6c+ * 32
63 Pugsley 7a * 34
64 Munsterosity 7a+ * 27
65 Morticia 7a 75
  Kennelgarth Wall
67 Technitis 6c 10
68 By Proxy 7a 14
69 Out Come The Freaks 7a+ 6
70 Fings Ain't What They Used To Be 7b+ ** 11
71 Kennelgarth 7b+ * 3
72 Siberian Husky 7b+ * 1
73 Tufa 8a+ 1
74 Eugene's High Point 7b+ 1
  Lower Cave Area
76 The Dandelion Slab 7a 2
77 Rose-Line 7b+ *** 23
78 Watchmen 7b *** 19
79 Sangreal 7b+ *** 10
80 Smashed Rat 7c *** 9
81 Sangria Finish 7b+ 2
82 Basilica 7b+ ** 4
83 Tiger Cut 7c+  
84 Rat on a Hot Tin Roof 7b *** 42
85 The First Step To Enlightenment 5a 7
86 Strider Direct HVS 5a * 4
  Bridge Cliff
88 Kick the Dog Next Door E2 5c 1
89 Continental Touch E1 5b  
90 Torrents of Spring E3 5c 1
91 Torrent Direct A0 1
92 Black Fox
-
E4 6b  
93 Cool Hand Fluke
-
E3 5c 1
94 Running Blind
-
E4 6b  
Climb name Grade
  Main Cliff
96 Pis En Lit 6b 36
97 Illegal Congress 6b 11
98 Family Values 6a+ 11
99 Stray Cats 7a * 7
100 Puss Off 7a * 5
101 Each Way Nudger 6b+ * 10
102 When Push Comes To Shove 7a+ * 4
103 When Push Comes To Shove (Direct Finish) 7b 5
104 Call a Spade a Spade 6c * 46
105 Totally Radish 6c * 42
106 Finger Pinch E3 5c 3
107 Durbin Two, Watson Nil 7c * 3
108 Giant Killer E6 * 2
109 The Road to Eldorado 5a * 72
110 Mortal Kombat 8b *** 2
111 Gorilliant 7a * 9
112 Dina Crac E9 ***  
113 Sport Wars 8a ** 4
114 Bloody Sport Climbers! 8a ** 8
115 Bloody Link Ups! 8a 1
116 Bloody Spore Climbers! 8a * 2
117 Captain Barbarossa 8a ** 3
118 The Black Pearl 8a *** 2
119 H1N1 8a ** 25
120 Spore Wars 7b+ ** 3
121 Subversive Body Pumping 7b+ * 6
122 Powers That Be 7c ** 4
123 Dinasty 8a *** 1
124 Hayabusa 7c+ ** 12
125 Berlin 7a+ *** 149
126 Berlin Extension 7b *** 49
127 Still Life 7b+ *** 18
128 Just In Time 7c ** 3
129 Chives of Freedom 7c ** 14
130 Outta Time 7c+ *** 6
131 Last of the Big Time link ups! E6 ** 1
132 The Big Time E6 **  
133 Crock of Gold 7c ** 9
134 Salem's Lot 7b+ ** 7
135 Crock of Shit 7c ** 2
136 The Sharp Cereal Professor 7b *** 54
137 Muchas Maracas 7c ** 4
138 Harlem 7b+ *** 26
139 Hawaiian Chance 7c * 2
140 Spain E4 *** 9
141 Groovy Tube Day E2 ** 20
142 Dr. Van Steiner 7a+ 2
  Terrace Cliff
144 Academy Awards 6c ** 16
145 Dream Academy Right-hand 6b+ ** 6
146 Dream Academy 6c ** 22
147 El Camino Del Roy 6c+ ** 21
148 Danny La Rue 7a+ 10
149 Incidentally X 7b+ * 9
150 Tortilla Flats 7b * 2
151 Pour Marcel 7b * 2
152 Brazilian Blend 6c+ ** 4
153 Sverige 7a * 3
154 Ma's Strict 7a+ * 2
155 Breakout 6c ** 3
156 Vitamin Z 7a 2
  Regulation Wall Bouldering
158 Rocknrolla f5+ * 6
159 Rocknrolla, Sit-start f6C+ ** 3
160 Slippy Slab f5+ 7
161 Gay and Grey f5+ 6
162 Rock Out f4 10
163 1 Inch Punch f6A 3
164 Boba Fet Touched my Wang f6A+ 1
165 Simon's Traverse f6C+ * 15
166 Simons 'full' Traverse f7B+ ** 4
167 Green Room f6B+ 3
168 Green Room Right-hand V4 1
169 The Prow, Sit-start f5+ 8
  Kennelgarth Bouldering
171 Achilles f6B+ * 90
172 V0- V0- 28
173 Byte Size f5+ * 213
174 Ton Sixty V4 * 10
175 Monkey Magic f6C * 57
176 Monkey Boy f6B * 99
177 Banana Boy f7A 45
178 Paper Boy f7A 65
179 Puppy Love f6A * 109
180 Team Puppy Explosion f6C * 6
181 Dogtown f6C ** 20
182 Gentle Jess Crouch Start f6C+ *** 118
183 Gentle Jess Sit Down Start f7A *** 95
184 The Groove f7A+ 61
185 Infidel f7A 38
186 The Mongrel Mob f7A+ 50
187 Poodle Traverse f6A * 155
188 Poodle Traverse (Footless) f6C+ * 37
Climb name Grade
189 Low Down f7A ** 4
190 Great White Starke f6A ** 70
191 Starke Attack f6A * 43
192 Flying High f7A+ * 3
193 Made By Magic f7C 7
194 Mr Magic f7C+ *** 14
195 The Magic Cat f7B ** 11
196 Riding Hannah f7A 51
197 The Honey Pot f6C+ 116
198 Fat Cat Roof f7C *** 73
199 Fat Cat Direct f7C+ * 4
200 Fat Cats Roof + Taylor Made f7C+ 13
201 Fat Cat Roof + Fyfe Extension f7C 7
202 Taylor Made f7B+ * 34
203 Taylor Made Eliminate f7C ** 9
204 Taylor Made Footless f8A 4
205 Paul Walker f7C 3
206 Nectar f7C 2
207 Neonicotinoid f7C+ 1
208 Stray f7B 3
209 The Blessing f7A 56
210 The Blessing + Fyfe Extension f7A * 9
211 Shamu f7B+ ** 23
212 The Life of Fyfe f7B+ *** 49
213 Life Of Fyfe Original f7C *** 12
214 The Riot f7C+ *** 17
215 The Carpenters Apprentice f8A+ 8
216 Saluki f7B+ ** 27
217 Sultan Of Swing f7B+ ** 2
218 Launch Pad f6C *** 104
219 Launch Pad (LH) f7A * 56
220 Launch Pad Crack Start f7A+ 8
221 Stoned f7A * 33
222 Anthill f7A 14
223 Chasing the Tail f6B 13
224 Shiny Beast f7A+ 15
225 Gentle Jess Direct f7B+ * 3
226 Ramsay f7A 2
  Kennelgarth Bouldering Traverses
228 The Wrath of Achilles f7C ** 10
229 Lowlife f7C+ ** 6
230 Body Cat f7C+ 4
231 Checkpoint Charlie f7C+ * 1
232 Throbbin's Traverse f8A 5
233 Body Wisdom f8A ** 4
234 Wife of Fyfe f8A+ *** 4
235 Low Wife f8A ** 1
  River Blocs Bouldering
237 Goonies Arete f6A 4
238 Green Fingers f5+ 6
239 Devolution f4+ 4
240 Solution Traverse f5 3
241 Pollution f5+ 2
242 Pauls Arete f6C+ * 4
243 Gut Lord f5+ 5
244 Pauls Problem f6C 5
245 Evolution f7A+ *** 20
246 Revolution f6C+ * 6
247 Illiminution f7A ** 3
248 Oh Heavan f4+ * 1
249 Shangri-La f5+ * 1
  Main Crag Bouldering
251 Dog Nut f6C+ ** 8
252 Return of the Midgets f5 3
253 Saturday Shuffle f4+ 4
254 Roof Warrior f5 3
255 Tiny Hands f5+ 3
256 Goodbye Gary Goodtimes f7A * 3
257 Rampant Rabbit Return f6C+ * 5
258 Awesome Shed f7B+ * 14
259 Awesome Shed Direct f7B+ * 9
260 Evil More Sideways f8A+ * 1
261 Evil Sideways f8A+ 4
262 Fu Man Who f7C+ * 2
263 Fu Man Chu f7C+ ** 3
264 Mega Ten Original f7C+ ** 3
265 Mega Ten Reclimbed f8A ** 4
266 Boy Racer f7C ** 27
267 Jet Blue f7C ** 14
268 Butch Cassidy f8A *** 7
269 Jed Black f8A *** 5
270 Berlin, Sit-start f6C+ * 28
271 How Soon Is Now f7B ** 2
272 The SS f7B * 2
273 Dash berlin f7C ** 2
274 Kim Jong V3 7
275 The Sharp Cereal Confessor V3 6
  Silver Surfer Area Bouldering
277 Upperboat Man f6A *** 2
278 Go with the flow f6B * 1
279 Berlin reich hand f7A * 3
  Unknown / unverified
281 Skinny Dog direct f7A+ ** 2
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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