Climbs 273
Rocktype Gneiss
Altitude Tidal
Faces all

Paul Fleuriot on Les Voyageurs © Sam Simpson

Crag features

Along with its neighbouring islands, this is one of the best rock climbing destinations in Britain, as well as one of the most remote. Big, steep cliffs of immaculate gneiss in a stunning location, with some smaller crags as well.

Although plenty of lower grade climbs do exist, it is generally recommended to be leading or at least pushing E2 in order to access the best of the place.

Approach notes

The island can be accessed privately by boat.

The island has been uninhabited since 1912 and is now owned by the National Trust. There is a good camping area next to the National Trust building above the bay on the east side of the island.

Access to some sectors (Guarsay Mor, Dun Mingulay) requires 100m abseil ropes. Some of the bigger unclimbed cliffs would require even longer ropes.

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Geo an Droma - South Face
2 Audience in the Wings
-
E2 5c ** 11
3 Nematocyst
-
E5 6b *** 4
4 The Waiting Game
-
E1 5b * 4
5 The Mad Professor
-
E2 6a * 1
6 Raining Puffins
-
E2 5b * 3
  Geo an Droma - East Face
8 Paata-Ruadh
-
VS 4a * 3
9 Duibheineach
-
S 4b * 2
10 Calm at Sunset, Calm at Dawn
-
E1 5a *  
11 Feel the Fear and Do It Anyway
-
VS 4c ** 4
12 Machashaw
-
S 4a * 2
13 Fluorescent Jellyfish
-
VD * 2
14 The Chap VD 1
15 Un-named VS 4c 1
16 Desperately Clinging On VS 5a 1
17 The Piano HS 4b * 1
18 Whisky Drinkers Destiny HS 4b ** 1
  Geo an Droma - North Face
20 Faithers Flakie S 4b * 1
21 Mithers Buldgie HS 4b * 1
  Waterfall Geo
23 Island Madness
-
HVS 5a * 7
24 Flysheet Minch Cossing
-
VS 5a * 1
25 Gneiss Slot
-
VD * 2
26 Very V Diff
-
S 4a 3
27 Dressed to the Left
-
VD *  
28 Not so Diff
-
HS 4b 7
29 Wandering Soul
-
VD ** 5
30 Anticipatory Diffness
-
VD  
31 Dressed to the Right
-
S 4a ** 7
  Ard Nan Capuill
33 Slob and Slag Go Climbing Part 1
-
VS 4c 1
34 Like it or Limpet
-
E2 5b 1
  Creag Dhearg - Left Wall
36 The Horror Beneath E1 5a * 1
37 The Scream E6 6b ** 2
38 K & S Special E6 6a *** 10
39 Dream the Dhearg Goch E6 6b ***  
40 Ocean Voyeur E5 6a ** 4
41 Variations on a Dream E5 6a *** 7
  Creag Dhearg - Upper Right Wall
43 The Deathly Hush E3 5c ** 1
44 Little Miss Sitting Pretty E5 6a *** 16
45 Big Chief Turning Bull E4 6a *** 21
46 Fulmar Squaw E3 5c *** 22
47 The Road to Nowhere E3 5c ** 5
  Creag Dhearg - Summit Wall
49 Moonshadow E6 6b *** 1
  Wee Geo - Ryan's Wall, Guarsay Beag
51 Squeeze out another one E2 5c * 1
52 Turd Compressor HVS 4c 2
53 Forcing Bid
-
S 4a * 1
54 Lord of the Isles
-
E4 6a 1
  Shag's Point
56 From the hole to heaven
-
VS 4c ** 8
57 Pecking Order
-
VS 4c ** 2
58 Derek the Shaman VS 4c 1
59 Condemned to Happiness VS 5a ** 8
60 The Wine Box Nomads VS 4c ** 6
  West Face of Shag's Point
62 Scragging Shags E1 5a ** 1
63 The Screamer HVS 5a  
  Black Geo
65 Journey to Ixtlan
-
E5 6a ** 3
66 Depth Charge VS 5a ** 2
  Guarsay Mor - The Boulevard
68 One Luxury Item E1 5b 1
69 Soggy Chalk
-
S 4a *  
70 Aqualung
-
S 4a * 1
71 Man Overboard
-
HVS 5a * 1
72 Port Pillar
-
HVS 5a 11
73 Oh No, Norman's Due Back Tomorrow!
-
E3 6a *** 5
74 Haunt of Seals
-
E2 5c ** 6
75 Under the Pink
-
E1 5b * 35
76 Oh No, Archie's Going Round in Circles!
-
HVS 5a ** 17
77 Okeanos
-
E2 5c *** 66
78 A Word With the Bill
-
E3 5c *** 29
79 Ossian Boulevard
-
E2 5b ** 37
80 Hill You Hoe
-
E3 6a ** 6
81 The Mushroom of my Fear
-
E3 6a ** 7
82 Longships
-
E4 6a ** 12
83 Crystal Daze
-
E3 6a *** 8
84 Precious Days
-
E5 6a ** 6
85 Taxing Macphee
-
E2 5c *** 56
86 Taxing MacPhee Variation E2 5c ** 1
87 Lost Souls
-
E4 6a *** 22
88 Swimming to America (Direct Start)
-
E2 5b * 1
89 Swimming to America
-
E4 6b *** 12
90 Sruth na Fir Gorm
-
E5 6b ** 2
91 Save our Soles E5 6b ** 4
  Guarsay Mor - West Face
93 Entebbe Sailing Club
-
VS 4c *  
94 The Grass is Singing
-
HVS 5a *  
95 Hoon Bird
-
S 4a *  
96 Alzheimer's Groove
-
HVS 5a ** 2
97 No Puke Here VS 4a ** 3
98 Guanomala City
-
VS 4c  
99 Grey Rib
-
S 4a ** 2
100 Poet's Corner
-
S 4a **  
  Guarsay Mor - Big Arch
102 The Fowler
-
VS 4c * 2
103 Thin Man
-
VS 4c *  
104 Blood on the Rocks
-
VS 4c *  
105 Two Men in a Boat
-
VD * 1
106 McCall of the Wild
-
VS 4c *** 9
107 Gordon's Fury S * 2
108 The Arch Deacon
-
HVS 5a *** 73
109 Razorbill Roofs
-
E1 5b ** 17
  Guarsay Mor - The Arena
111 Arch Angel
-
HVS 5a ***  
112 The Breach
-
HVS 5a ** 2
113 Cuan a' Cheo
-
HVS 5a *  
114 Ken in the Fire
-
HVS 5b *  
115 Fulmars for Effort HVS 5a **  
116 Swine Flu HVS 5a * 1
  Guarsay Mor - South Pillar
118 Wake Up and Smell the Guano
-
HVS 5a  
119 Shooting Star
-
E1 5b **  
120 Mayday
-
E1 5b *** 11
121 Pavement Pizza
-
E2 5c *** 1
122 Fisherman's Blues
-
HVS 5a * 1
123 Stugeron
-
HVS 4c 2
124 Pressure Band
-
HVS 5a ** 2
125 Bill Oddie Eat Your Heart Out
-
E1 5b *  
126 Conspiracy Theory E1 5b 3
127 Guantastic E1 5b * 2
  Guarsay Mor - Undercut Wall
129 Rayburnt
-
E4 6a *** 4
130 Burning Desire
-
E5 6b ***  
131 The Ocean of Time E5 6a *** 3
132 The Secret's Out E5 6a *** 3
133 Taking the Hump
-
E5 6a ***  
  Guarsay Mor - Cobweb Wall
135 Bird is the Word E4 5c ** 2
136 Bikini Dreams
-
E3 5c *** 8
137 Cuan a Bochan
-
E1 5b *** 11
138 Itsy Bitsy Spider
-
HVS 5a *** 2
139 Salvaged
-
HVS 5a * 1
140 Bill's Yellow Edge
-
HVS 5b * 1
141 Arger Sanction E4 6a **  
142 White Hot Spider E4 6a **  
143 Too Young For A Ginghi E1 5b *** 2
144 Puffin Corner HVS 5b ** 1
  Arnamul Promontory
146 Lament To The Abyss
-
E1 5b ** 1
147 Mingulay Magic
-
E1 5b ** 1
148 Arnamul Instincts
-
E3 5c ** 1
149 Pass the Razor Bill
-
E3 5c ** 1
150 Kraken's Gullet
-
E2 5b *  
151 The Wretched Gull E1 5b 1
152 The Fulmar Monty E3 5c  
153 Arnamul Magic E2 5b  
154 The Green Eyed Dragon Slayers E1 5b  
155 Marvo the Magician E2 5b  
156 The Black Dyke Affair HVS 5a  
157 Friends with the Arnamuls VS 4c *  
  Dun Mingulay
159 Pain au Chocolat E3 5c ** 1
160 Children of Tempest
-
E1 5c * 3
161 The Great Shark Hunt
-
E4 5c ** 1
162 Ride the Monster
-
E4 6a ** 3
163 Perfect Monsters E7 6b *** 3
164 Ray of Light
-
E4 5c *** 11
165 Les Voyageurs
-
E3 5c *** 10
166 Searching in the Sun E4 6a **  
167 The Lobster Men
-
E3 5c *** 5
168 Voyage of Faith E3 5c *** 101
169 The Ocean of Air Finish
-
E4 6a *** 3
170 The Hurried Path E3 5c *** 23
171 The Silk Route E3 5c ** 4
172 Sula E2 5b *** 136
173 Sula (Direct Start) E3 5c *** 2
174 The Silkie E3 6a *** 34
175 Ribbed for Her Pleasure
-
E3 5c * 1
176 Call of the Sea E3 5c *** 44
177 Last Call (Call of the Sea Alternative Start)
-
E4 6a *** 2
178 Oceanside Expedition E4 5c *** 1
179 Sirens E3 5c *** 15
180 Paranoia (Sirens start) E4 6a *** 2
181 Perfectly Normal Paranoia E6 6b *** 3
182 Where's Paranoia?
-
E3 5c ***  
183 Subterranean Exposure
-
E5 6b **  
184 Rory Rum The Story Man E5 6a *** 12
185 Big Kenneth
-
E5 6a *** 22
186 Wee Craig E5 6a *** 2
187 Little K
-
E3 6a *** 5
188 Where's Rory?
-
E3 5c *** 2
189 Dun Moaning
-
E2 5b ** 1
190 Dun Moaning Alternative Finish
-
E4 6a ** 1
191 Dunne Slimmin' E2 5b ** 2
192 Done Mingulay
-
E2 5b ** 4
193 Yob and Yag Go Climbing Part 3
-
E1 5b * 2
194 Fifteen Fathoms of Fear S 4a *** 4
195 A Few Fathoms More
-
VS 4c * 2
196 Storm Warning
-
E2 5c *  
197 Storm Warning (Direct Finish)
-
E2 5c *  
198 The Scottish Play
-
E3 6a *  
199 The Swell E4 6a ***  
  The Black Wall
201 (The Day of ) A Thousand Eyes E4 5c * 1
  Sloc Heisegeo
203 Eagle Gravy E1 4c 1
204 Morning Glory E1 5b *  
205 Pot of Gold E2 5b ***  
  Seal Song Geo
207 Spitting Fury E6 6b ** 1
208 The Girl With Extraordinary Eyes
-
E3 6a ** 1
209 Delayed Reaction
-
E1 5c ** 1
210 Fergus Sings the Blues
-
E4 6a ** 2
211 The Girl in the Boat
-
E4 6a ** 1
212 The Sun Has Got His Hat On
-
E3 5c ** 1
213 The Trusted Scallop E2 5c *  
  The Point
215 Eaglesea
-
VS 4c ** 1
216 Flyaway
-
VS 4c ** 2
217 Cracknan Euan
-
VS 4c *** 2
218 Rubha Soul
-
E2 5b 2
  Geirum Walls - Hidden Wall
220 The Gull Who Shagged Me
-
E3 5c *** 5
221 Whipsplash
-
E4 6b ***  
222 Sunnyside Up
-
VS 5a **  
223 Over Easy
-
VD  
  Geirum Walls - The Platform Wall
225 Crooked Thumb
-
VS 4c * 1
226 Corner and Slab
-
VS 5a * 3
227 Lunar Pull
-
VS 5a ** 2
228 Pocket Wall
-
E1 5b * 1
229 The Abyss of Numbers
-
E2 5c * 2
230 Hopalong Howett
-
E1 5b  
231 Let Things Go
-
E2 5b *  
232 Obvious Crack
-
E3 5c *  
233 Horizontal Hamish
-
E1 5b *  
234 Dr Cassidy And The Stanley Kid HVS 5a *** 1
  Geirum Walls - The Main Walls
236 Junior Keel
-
E4 6b **  
237 Seriously Twitching
-
VS 4c * 5
238 Bonxie Arete E1 5b * 2
239 The Crack that Tim Forgot
-
E2 5c ** 6
240 Big Sea in My Trousers
-
E2 5b ** 4
241 The Singing Seal
-
E1 5b * 14
242 Screaming Seal
-
HVS 4c * 5
243 Try the Shark Fin Soup
-
VS 4c ** 7
244 After the Basking Shark
-
S 4a * 3
245 The Curious Grey
-
VS 4b * 2
246 Beagles above the Shitehouse
-
VS 4b ** 7
247 Eagles above the Lighthouse
-
VS 4c * 1
248 First Time for Everyone HVS 5a * 5
249 Snooked for a Crack
-
VS 4c * 6
250 Confidence Booster
-
HS 4b *  
251 Crisis of Confidence
-
S 4a * 3
252 The Old Man and the Sea
-
HVS 5a * 8
253 Wise Crack
-
E1 5b * 2
254 Sunshine All Day
-
HVS 5a * 1
255 Super Crack
-
E1 5b * 5
256 E1ish Cracks E1 5b  
257 Black Crack
-
HVS 5a *  
258 Sealed with a Kiss
-
E3 6a ** 2
259 Sealed with a Kiss (Dwarf Variation)
-
E2 5c * 1
260 Seal Clubbing
-
E1 5c * 2
261 Under the Boardwalk
-
E2 5c * 6
262 Evening Sun
-
E1 5c * 1
263 On the Beach
-
E1 5c * 1
264 Hawaiian Tropic
-
VS 4c ** 9
265 Mesajanier
-
E3 6a *  
266 Water Babies
-
E2 5c ** 5
267 Land Baby E2 5c ** 2
268 Mary Doune
-
E1 5b *** 20
269 Double Walrus
-
HVS 5a * 3
270 Alan's Route
-
HVS 5a * 1
271 The Sirens of Mingulay
-
E2 5c * 1
272 Underseal
-
E2 6a *  
273 Calling Seal
-
E3 6a **  
274 Fringe Elements
-
VS 4c *  
  Geirum Walls - far eastern walls
276 The Corner
-
S 4a 1
277 You Are Being Watched
-
HS 4b  
278 Mingulay Blazers
-
S 4a  
279 High and Dry
-
VS 5a  
280 Frodo's Frenzy
-
HVS 5a **  
281 The Tide Waits for No Man
-
E2 5c *  
282 My Gull's Mad at Me
-
VS 4c  
283 Happy Landings
-
HVS 5a  
284 Arc Arsenal E1 5b ***  
  Basking Seal Geo (DWS)
286 Dave's Route 5c *  
287 Tormentill E2 5c * 2
288 The Minging Gardens of Babylon E2 5c ** 2
289 The Shag who Spied Me E4 5c 1
290 Pirytes Pleasure/L'Arete d'Amour 6a+ ** 7
291 (Not Another) Northumberland Wall E4 6a ** 1
292 The Night of the Storytellers 6a+ ** 2
293 Puffin Fly Past S 4a 1
294 Puffin Rafters VS 4c 2
295 Pete's Route 6a+ * 1
296 Tidy Like 6b+ *** 1
297 Traverse In 6a ** 2
298 Traverse In (Low)
-
6a+ **  
299 Imminent Assignment 7a **  
300 Digging a Watery Grave
-
E4 6a * 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Andy Moles