Climbs 137
Rocktype Limestone
Faces S
At the second 'hole' on Great Slab. © nigehughes
Trad on the West Side of the beach:
Pleasant and slabby, in easy reach of Swansea, 5 mins walk from the road, near Gower's busiest beach. Not the place to escape it all, perhaps. Routes up to 27m (including an E5), the best being Nat Not (VS 4c).
Bouldering mostly on the East:
There is good bouldering on the east side of the bay and one lone boulder near the trad slabs on the east side.
On a Summer's day you can pretty much forget about bouldering anything on the beach area—only the further East crags (such as Square Boulder) will not have families sitting under them (hopefully).
Further details and topos are available on the SWMC Wiki's:
Trad: SWMC Caswell Trad Wiki
Bouldering: SWMC Caswell Bouldering
From Swansea go towards Mumbles, at the mini-roundabout in Mumbles (White Rose pub on the corner) turn right and head up the hill. At the top of the hill turn left at signs for Caswell Bay and follow the twisting road (B4593) to the Bay. Park in an obvious "pay or be fined" car park opposite the beach. The trad climbing is on a series of slabs on the West side of the bay. The most prominent of these is Great Slab, with an obvious through cave at the base. About 50m West is Yellow Flecked Slab and 50m further on is Far South Slab, bounded by a tapering triangular fissure at its West end. Bouldering is mostly on the East side of the beach.
Tidal: access generally feasible for three hours either side of low tide.
Would like to say that although caswell is suited to lower grade climbers i would say that the setting up at the top is very hard on almost ALL of the slabs! Sion - 02/Jan/07 |
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