UKC

Climbs 21
Rocktype Granite
Altitude 267m a.s.l
Faces S

Sam disappears in a blur of action. © Dan Arkle

Crag features

A small bouldering area tucked away in the woods near Gidleigh. There are around 15 problems scattered around the hillside of varying quality with some excellent climbs amongst these. The grades range from V0 to V8+ with a nice selection of styles covered. The better problems are Le Coq V2, Fist full of slopers V2, The Skinny Man V4 and the much harder Dark Devotion V8+. The area is much more open these days and it is much easier to get around. There are more quality boulders and problems dotted around these woods than documented in the new Dartmoor guide. A nice venue for a few problems and lots of exploration! Oh and don't forget the JUMP (covered by a large tree at present)! Problems have the relevant number from the new Dartmoor guide next to them in the description.

Approach notes

From the A30 turn off at Widdon Down then follow signs towards Moretonhampstead. Along this road is a turning on the right for Gidleigh follow this through Gidleigh to an obvious large layby and gate at the entrance to the woods which is on this road!

Guidebooks

Does anyone regularly climb here. I live ten minutes away and only really found them recently. I was wondering if they'd even been 'discovered'. The army use the area for training and a lot of the waste and fire spots are from that. I was looking at some problems that might benefit from some gentle cleaning but don't want to clean holds on someone's sacred spot.
Craggers87 - 23/Nov/14
Lots of good bouldering here. Is there anywhere I can find a topo's/descriptions of the problems. Can't seem to find any.
Tom Seccombe - 30/Jan/13
the woods have seen a lot of traffic from some wild camping bivvy types who have left large amounts of rubbish lying around, also there have been many randomly placed campfires (some at the base of at least four problems causing some rock to shatter and break off) If you venture into the woods, just watch your step and go easy
mca - 28/Jun/10
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Featured Boulder
2 Short Crack (Dartmoor 1) V0 5a  
3 Nasty Crack (Dartmoor 2) V2 5b  
4 Featured Wall (Dartmoor 3) V1 3
5 Right Wall (Dartmoor 4) V2 3
6 The Arete (Dartmoor 5) V0 3
  Around the Nose
8 The Nose (Dartmoor 6) V2 ** 4
9 Low Traverse (Dartmoor 7) V1  
10 Fist Full of Slopers V4 ** 1
Climb name Grade
11 Project Wall (Dartmoor 8) V10  
12 Flakey Wall (Dartmoor 9) V1  
  Le Coq
14 Le Coq (Dartmoor 11) V2 ** 3
15 Le Coq Sitter (Dartmoor 12) V6 **  
16 Le Sac V3+ ** 2
17 Right Arete (Dartmoor 13) V1 2
  Dark Devotion
19 Dark Devotion (Dartmoor 14) V8+ **  
Climb name Grade
  Breakdance Boulder
21 The Skinny Man (Dartmoor 17) V4 ** 1
22 Hand Jamming (Dartmoor 16) V3 *  
  Top Boulder
24 Wippled Wall (Dartmoor 18) V2 *  
25 Crystal Crimps (Dartmoor 19) V5 *  
  A Fist Full of Slopers
27 A Fist Full Of Slopers (Dartmoor 20) V3 *** 1
28 A Fist Fuller of Slopers V4 *** 2

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