Climbs 112
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 313m a.s.l
Faces NW

Rogues 1 © Mark Davis

Crag features

Routes up to 33m. Popular with teaching groups (you are warned). A fine selection of routes, including Phobia (E1 5b), To The Batmoblie(HVS 5b) and a prime first lead Massascent Groove (VD).

Also a wide range of bouldering on lower tier.

There is even a few Highball boulder problems like Harry The Spiders Comeing Out Party (E3)

Approach notes

From the A465 head for a T junction (OS ref ST 049 092) where a track joins an unclassed road. Over the road a gate takes an old tram road running N along the hillside. Follow this for 5 mins.

Be aware that cars parked here are subject to vandalism, breakins etc as the broken windscreen on the road will testify. It's best to park down the road next to the pub and walk in from there.

Or (from the SW or N): leave A470 or A465, join road along Taf Fechan valley. Follow for 2.5mi to the Aberglais pub, continue 200m uphill to Pont sarn pub. Park in car park opposite.

Descend to disused railway line and cross viaduct, and up steep bank to middle of quarry.

Empty your car - there have been many thefts.

An interesting crag with a pleasant open outlook. There are a lot of scrappy lower grade routes here and some polish but there are also some excellent sheer walls with good routes and slabby stuff of good high friction rock. The idiot organised groups use the middle tier and they are trashing it. If you see them there tell them to bugger off.
Mark Davies PK - 27/Aug/12
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 More Lice VS 4c 6
2 Maul Ice S 12
3 Noviciate(morlais)
-
S s 11
4 Hawthorn Wall S 4a 7
5 Pull Through
-
S 34
6 Parting Company
-
S 19
7 Greenmantle
-
HVS 5a 7
8 T.A.P.
-
VD 8
9 Old friends
-
VD 14
10 Terminal Arete
-
VD 14
11 Cave Route D 9
12 Badger Violation Cave D * 11
  Great Wall
14 Batman Returns E2 5c * 2
15 To The Batmobile HVS 5b ** 18
16 Grace Under Pressure E1 5b * 7
17 Phobia E1 5b * 27
18 The Rattling Finish E2 5c 10
19 Blade Runner E3 5c ** 14
20 Rogues Gallery E6 6c * 2
21 Morlais In A Tramps Vest E5 6a * 2
22 No Mercy E7 6c ** 2
23 Partners in Crime E5 6c ** 2
24 Fly Arete HS 49
25 Massascent Groove
-
VD * 94
26 Ledge Way
-
VD 49
27 Eliminate Slab
-
HVS 4b 14
28 Tiptoe
-
S * 40
29 Spectacle VD * 32
30 Serpent
-
VD * 31
31 Lost Groove
-
D 16
32 Two Corners
-
VD * 39
33 S.T.E.P S 33
34 Top Cat
-
S 79
  Castle Bay
36 Name Game
-
HS 4a 29
37 Great Corner
-
S * 101
38 Castle Wall
-
VS 4b * 103
39 Arisk
-
VS 4b 36
40 By The Tips Of Your Toes * E1 5b ** 1
41 Wall Cracks HVS 5a * 24
42 Harry The Spiders Comeing Out Party E3 6a 3
43 Dirty Corner
-
M 22
44 Sixtees Groove
-
VD 18
45 Easy Route
-
M 27
46 Rocks like the Rockies
-
S 11
47 Gripshift
-
HS 4b 10
48 S.T.E.P.
-
S 25
49 Fork Left
-
VS 4c 17
50 Fork Right S 4a 15
51 Snuff Stuff
-
VS 4b 4
52 green corner VD 11
53 Busy Bee
-
HS hs 6
54 Philanderer
-
VS 4c 20
55 Evening Gem
-
E4 6a * 1
56 Evening Gem (Direct Finish)
-
E4 6a 1
57 Flake Crack
-
VD 20
58 Tree Corner
-
S 54
59 Split Buttress
-
VD 25
60 Grease Monkey
-
VD 45
61 Groovy
-
S 43
62 Griptight
-
HS 4b 18
63 Blockhead
-
S 29
64 gripfix
-
HS 4b 20
65 Sixties Groove
-
VD 8
66 BYPASS
-
D 7
67 Guts VS 4b 4
68 The Sickle
-
VS 4c * 4
69 Oxo
-
VS 11
70 Wall Street E1 5a * 8
71 Bahama Crisis E1 5b 5
72 Cerebellum HVS 5b *** 16
73 Compact
-
VS 4b 3
74 Gallery
-
VS 4b 5
75 Tap
-
VD 3
76 Massacent Groove
-
VD 15
77 Gold Medal
-
VS 4b 7
78 Elastic
-
VS 4b 7
79 Extension
-
HVS 5a 4
80 After dinner crack
-
VS 4b 4
  The Padawans Wall
82 Padawan E4 6b * 3
83 Terminator E3 6a * 2
  THE BOULDERING
85 The Tower Of Power f6B+ * 4
86 Left of Dirty Corner VD 2
87 Fairy steps VD 4
88 Cerebelum HVS 5a * 1
89 khamil Rhouge E2 6a 1
90 Central Groove S 4
91 Midge Attack! none 5c 2
92 Windy
-
HVS 5b 4
93 Breezing E1 5b 1
94 Eliminate
-
4c *** 1
95 Lost Grove
-
D 1
96 Hiccup HVS 4c ** 1
97 Delivery HVS 4c 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer MorganPreece