Climbs 61
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 100m a.s.l
Faces W

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Cefn Coed © alan rosier

Crag features

Former quarry, very long (157m long). Routes up to 35m. Some dire routes at the LH end. Good spread of grades, best route seemingly Bifid (E1 5b).

 

Please take/add photos of any new routes, makes verification easier.

Approach notes

Take the A465 - from S turn off A470 onto A465 (tw Abergavenny). Park in layby on RH side just after junction.
Over road, step over crash barrier and follow fence RW for 50m to gap at trench and descent path.

A better and safer option is to park in Lakeside gardens which is opposite Cyfarthfa lake this is easily found by following the tourist signs.Park at the way marked path signposted Taf Fechan,follow the path parallel to the canal for a couple of minutes the crag is under the bridge on the right.

 

Access Banned

Climbing is currently banned at this venue - it lies within a local Nature Reserve and a legally designated SSSI.  It has been reported that climbers have recently cleared vegetation, placed lower off bolts and the clearance of mature trees to re-develop the site, without consultation or permission from the either land owners  (local authority) or the Wildlife Trust,  all potentially illegal activities within an SSSI,  have led to them to take this action. 

Brilliant job on the cleaning and bolting! Will be making a good few trips here this summer!
Ollie B - 30/Apr/19
looks pretty dire at the moment.How overgrown are The Great Wall and The Bridge Cliff
freelunchprovider - 20/Apr/14
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 S'wet S 5
2 Pong VS 4b 5
3 Jug Wall M 5
4 Condor
-
VS 4c 2
5 White Stallion 6c+ * 5
6 Great Wall HVS * 8
7 Viking
-
VS 4c 3
8 Age of Reason 6a ** 6
9 Elm Tree Groove
-
D 3
10 Duck
-
S 3
11 The Fang E1 5c ** 2
12 Cleavage
-
VD 1
13 Alex In Wonderland E4 6a * 1
14 Strand VD 1
15 Walter Mitty
-
HS 4a 2
16 X-Ray
-
S 1
Climb name Grade
17 Bifid E1 5b ** 4
18 Here And There 6b+ 1
19 Arris 6c+ * 3
20 Belly Ache 7a+ ** 7
21 Tough Of The Track 7a ** 7
22 Grains From The Veins 7b ** 1
23 Death of a Salesman E3 5c * 2
24 Pride And Prejudice 6c+ * 6
25 Trimmet 6c ** 12
26 Santa Anna 6b 8
27 Bewitched ( Davey Pocket ) 6b+ * 11
28 Rock Lobster 7a * 7
29 Gold Monkey 6b+ 6
30 Singapore girl 7c *  
31 The Brood 7b+  
32 Goblin groove 6a * 9
Climb name Grade
33 Along 6a+ 1
34 Schlong 6a+ 2
35 Licking Celia Into Shape 5b 3
36 Celia 5b  
37 Cecilia 6b+ * 2
38 Ophelia 6b 2
39 Nameless Groove HS  
40 Apollo 13
-
HVS 5b 3
41 Agricola 6c ** 4
42 Muppet Filter 6b+ ** 5
43 Tacitus Spilled The Beans 6a 1
44 Batshit Hits The Fan * 6b 1
45 Ancestral Vices * 6b 1
46 Wilt Alternative * 6b+ 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
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