Climbs 157
Rocktype Limestone

Faces S

Ogmore sunset © Mark Salter

Crag features

.Fatntastic crag. Generally steep and overhanging rock - mostly good but "some of the finishes and occasionally entire routes" can be unstable. In-situ gear may be corroded. A real adventure experience, not to be underrated; if you think Pembroke grades are 'real' be prepared for a total pasting. Routes up to 36m.

Approach notes

Tidal - extremely so, with tides rising 6m to 9m up the cliff.
Take the road from Ogmore by Sea (B4524) tw Southerndown Bay to a sharp bend passing West Farm (just after sign marking Southerndown boundary). Park in grassy area bounded by concrete posts. The tea shop is now a Jazz venue which does have a Cafe/Bar, called The Barn.
Walk down grassy gully tw sea to narrow path running W. Abseil approach. There are some stakes, but there are also a number of bolts to abseil off as well.

The routes I've climbed here feel bigger and harder than the grade suggests. Not a place to push your grade?
Mattress - 22/Jul/05
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  The Western Crag
2 Spangle Texture VS 4b 5
3 In Dispute With Nappy Rash
-
HVS 5a  
4 Raw Energy
-
E2 5c *  
5 Lipstick
-
E3 6a  
6 Winchfactor Five
-
E2 5c  
7 Chill Factor
-
HVS 5a  
8 Side Step
-
VS 4b  
9 Just Taking A Gander E1 5b 3
10 Kite
-
E1 5b 2
11 Swing Wing
-
E3 5c  
12 Mighty Steel
-
E5 6c  
13 Storm Damage * E2 5b  
14 Christmas Cracker HVS 4c 6
15 Christmas Hangover HS 4b 14
16 Strategic Zap Attack
-
E3 6b 1
17 Wazzock
-
HVS 5a 11
18 Now Your Goose Is Cooked
-
HVS 5a 4
19 Sauce For The Goose HVS 5b 5
20 Goose Step VS 4b 5
21 Slippery jim HVS 4c  
  Twinkle Buttress
23 Pillock
-
VS 4c * 12
24 Twinkle
-
D 27
25 Route 1
-
D 22
26 Sinestro S 4a * 3
27 Canute
-
VD 21
28 Canute Right Hand
-
HVS 5a 12
29 Astrobrain E6 6b *  
  Fools Fantasy
31 Leprechaun E1 5b * 5
32 Fool's Fantasy
-
E5 6a 1
33 Wipeout
-
E4 5c 4
34 Right Little Raver
-
E5 6b 1
35 Nyth
-
E3 6a 2
36 Disneyworld
-
E6 6c 1
37 Pluto
-
VS 4c ** 77
  Popular End and Elephant Wall
39 Open Invitation
-
E5 6b 1
40 Finger Print
-
E4 6a ** 13
41 Brothers In Arms
-
E6 6b 1
42 Abbey Road
-
HVS 5a *** 40
43 Roof Of The World
-
E5 6c 1
44 The Gremlin
-
E1 5a * 16
45 The Arrow
-
E2 5c ** 11
46 Titanic
-
E4 6a/b 1
47 Mauritania E5 6b *  
48 Megalopolis
-
E1 5b ** 11
49 Rat Fink
-
HVS 4c 5
50 Loaded Question
-
E3 5c 1
51 Implausible Suggestion
-
E5 6a ** 3
52 Jumping Jack Flash
-
E1 5c * 7
53 Griffin
-
E3 6a 3
54 Pinnochio
-
HVS 4c *** 59
55 Exposure Explosion
-
HVS 5a *** 203
56 Easy Livin'
-
E3 5c ** 8
57 Wave Band
-
E2 5b * 22
58 Slime Crime
-
HVS 5a * 15
59 Elephant Wall VS 4b * 52
60 Elephant Wall (Direct Finish) VS 5a * 8
  Tusker Chimney Area
62 Mind Probe
-
E2 5b * 11
63 Wet Look HVS 4c * 2
64 Tusker Chimney
-
HVS 5a ** 3
65 Flyover E3 5c * 1
66 Domestic Bliss
-
E1 5b 2
67 Domestic Responsibility
-
E2 5c * 3
68 Flash Harry
-
HS 4a ** 75
69 Yorkshire Pud
-
S 16
70 Mordred
-
HVS 4c 9
71 tim's Route VD * 7
  Scutch Buttress
73 The Dribbling Douh What HVS 4c 2
74 Scutch
-
HVS 5b 8
  Tiger Bay
76 Quick Draw
-
E4 6a 2
77 Siren Direct
-
VS 4c 5
78 Total Eclipse of the Sun
-
E8 6b  
79 A Bigger Splash E3 5c *** 5
  Sorcery Wall
81 The Uncanny Direct E6 6c *** 1
82 The Uncanny E6 6c ***  
83 Worn Out Superman E6 6b **  
84 Spellbinder
-
E4 6a *** 2
  Fire Wall
86 Fury
-
E3 5c 1
87 Burn 'Em Up
-
E5 6b 3
88 Fire
-
E3 5c ** 11
89 The Knave E3 5c *  
90 Well Blessed E3 5b * 1
  The Castle Area
92 The Bishop
-
HVS 4c * 5
93 Cone Country
-
HVS 5a * 3
94 Bute Street
-
E3 5b 3
95 Spring Tide
-
E2 5b ** 7
96 Low Ebb
-
E3 5c ** 8
97 Poseidon HVS 5a *** 8
98 Poseidon Direct Finish
-
E1 5a 1
99 Beyond Poseidon E2 5b 1
100 The Castle VS 4b 1
  The Biscuit
102 Wafer Thin E2 5c 1
103 Cream Crackers E5 5a,5c ** 1
104 Information Recieved E4 5a,5c * 1
105 Short Dread E4 5c 1
106 Takes the Biscuit E4 5c * 1
107 Here Today E3 5b,5b 1
108 Mother Earth E2 5a ** 2
109 Sleepless Nights E4 5c 1
110 Best Of Friends E2 5a 1
111 Floozie XS 4b/c 1
112 Suspended Sentence E4 5c 1
113 No Reprieve E3 5c 1
114 Have Mercy E4 6a  
115 Quimble VS 4b 3
116 Goodnight Cowboy E2 5b 1
117 Ultra Virus E4 6a *  
118 Last Buck E2 5b  
119 Trusty Blade E2 5b 1
  Davy Jones' Locker
121 Fast Luck E2 5b * 3
122 Mindfuck 6b+ *** 2
123 Made in Maes Cwn 6c+ *** 4
124 Skullthuggery 7b *** 1
125 Cure for the Cancer 7b+ *** 1
126 Superstitious? 7a *** 5
127 Twenty First Century 7a *** 1
128 These Dangerous Seas 6b+ *** 1
129 Fast Reactions E2 5b * 2
130 The Hatch
-
HS 4a * 6
131 Here Comes The Rain VS 4c 3
132 Cold Steel
-
E2 5c 1
133 Ogmore Olympics E2 5c 3
134 One Cool Vibe E3 5c  
135 Glycogen E1 5a *** 23
136 Brain Wane E3 5b ** 2
137 Phaser E3 5c *** 9
138 Whatever Next E5 5c  
139 Stray Dog
-
HVS 4c 5
140 Fashoda Chimney
-
VD * 8
141 General Gordon VS 5
142 A Tale of High Adventure VS 4b 4
143 Lady Jane HVS 4a,4c 4
144 Norwegian Wood E2 5b 2
145 Black Looks E5 5c * 1
146 Spring Fever
-
E3 5c 2
147 Falsity E2 5b 2
148 Sense of Adventure HVS 4b * 1
149 Blackjack VS 4b *** 1
150 Pontoon VS 4c 2
151 No Sense Venture VS 4b ** 3
152 Capital Venture VS 4b *** 1
153 Joint Venture HVS 4c *** 3
154 Wimaway HVS 4b *  
155 The Hunchback E1 5a 2
156 Night Games E4 5c  
157 To Mitzy A Pup E4 6a **  
158 Two Peas E2 5a * 1
159 Against The Grain E3 5c 2
160 Moonlight Flit E1 5b 3
161 Via Normale
-
D 7
162 L'Escargot
-
VS 4b 4
163 Birthday Bash MVS 4b  
164 Overdue
-
VS 4b 7
165 The Timely Trick E1 5b 2
166 Tattered Adventurer HVS 5a *** 2
167 Another Christmas Tree Adventure VS 4c ** 2
168 Arkle HVS 5a 1
169 Becher's Brook VS 4b 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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