Climbs 170
Rocktype Limestone

Faces S

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Ogmore sunset © Mark Salter

Crag features

Fantastic crag. Generally steep and overhanging rock - mostly good but "some of the finishes and occasionally entire routes" can be unstable. In-situ gear may be corroded. A real adventure experience, not to be underrated; if you think Pembroke grades are 'real' be prepared for a total pasting. Routes up to 36m.

Approach notes

Tidal - extremely so, with tides rising 6m to 9m up the cliff.
Take the road from Ogmore by Sea (B4524) tw Southerndown Bay to a sharp bend passing West Farm (just after sign marking Southerndown boundary). Park in grassy area bounded by concrete posts. The tea shop is now a Jazz venue which does have a Cafe/Bar, called The Barn.
Walk down grassy gully tw sea to narrow path running W. Abseil approach. There are some stakes, but there are also a number of bolts to abseil off as well.

Guidebooks

The routes I've climbed here feel bigger and harder than the grade suggests. Not a place to push your grade?
Mattress - 22/Jul/05
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  The Western Crag
2 Spangle Texture VS 4b 5
3 In Dispute With Nappy Rash
-
HVS 5a 1
4 Raw Energy
-
E2 5c *  
5 Lipstick
-
E3 6a  
6 Winchfactor Five
-
E2 5c  
7 Chill Factor
-
HVS 5a  
8 Side Step
-
VS 4b  
9 Just Taking A Gander E1 5b 3
10 Now Your Goose Is Cooked
-
HVS 5a 4
11 Sauce For The Goose HVS 5b 5
12 Goose Step VS 4b 5
13 Kite
-
E1 5b 2
14 Swing Wing
-
E3 5c  
15 Mighty Steel
-
E5 6c  
16 Storm Damage E2 5b  
17 Christmas Cracker HVS 4c 6
18 Christmas Hangover HS 4b 16
19 Strategic Zap Attack
-
E3 6b 1
20 Too Wazzocks E1 5b * 2
21 Two Pillocks HVS 5a 1
22 Wazzock HVS 5a 13
23 Slippery jim HVS 4c 2
  Twinkle Buttress
25 Pillock
-
VS 4c * 14
26 Twinkle
-
D 27
27 Route 1
-
D 25
28 Sinestro S 4a * 3
29 Canute
-
VD 24
30 Canute Right Hand
-
HVS 5a 12
31 Astrobrain E6 6b *  
  Fools Fantasy
33 Leprechaun E1 5b * 5
34 Fool's Fantasy
-
E5 6a 1
35 Wipeout
-
E4 5c 5
36 Right Little Raver
-
E5 6b 1
37 Nyth
-
E3 6a 3
38 Disneyworld
-
E6 6c 2
39 Pluto
-
VS 4c *** 84
  Popular End and Elephant Wall
41 Open Invitation
-
E5 6b 1
42 Finger Print
-
E4 6a ** 14
43 Brothers In Arms
-
E6 6b 1
44 Abbey Road
-
HVS 5a *** 47
45 Roof Of The World
-
E5 6c 1
46 The Gremlin
-
E1 5a * 17
47 The Arrow
-
E2 5c ** 18
48 Titanic
-
E4 6a/b 1
49 Mauritania E5 6b *  
50 Megalopolis
-
E1 5b ** 13
51 Rat Fink
-
HVS 4c 6
52 Loaded Question
-
E3 5c 2
53 Implausible Suggestion
-
E5 6a ** 3
54 Jumping Jack Flash
-
E1 5c * 10
55 Griffin
-
E3 6a 4
56 Pinnochio
-
HVS 4c *** 75
57 Exposure Explosion
-
HVS 5a *** 154
58 Easy Livin'
-
E3 5c ** 11
59 Wave Band
-
E2 5b * 24
60 Slime Crime
-
HVS 5a * 17
61 Elephant Wall VS 4b * 57
Climb name Grade
62 Elephant Wall (Direct Finish) VS 5a * 14
  Tusker Chimney Area
64 Mind Probe
-
E2 5b * 13
65 Wet Look HVS 4c * 6
66 Tusker Chimney
-
HVS 5a ** 7
67 Flyover E3 5c * 2
68 Domestic Bliss
-
E1 5b 3
69 Domestic Responsibility
-
E2 5c * 5
70 Flash Harry
-
HS 4a ** 84
71 Yorkshire Pud
-
S 19
72 Mordred
-
HVS 4c 11
73 tim's Route VD * 9
  Scutch Buttress
75 The Dribbling Douh What HVS 4c 5
76 Scutch
-
HVS 5b 8
77 Cold Front
-
HVS 5b * 1
  Tiger Bay
79 Quick Draw
-
E4 6a 3
80 Siren Direct
-
VS 4c 6
81 Total Eclipse of the Sun
-
E8 6b  
82 A Bigger Splash E3 5c *** 6
  Sorcery Wall
84 Mantra E5 6a **  
85 The Enchanted E5 6a *  
86 The Uncanny Direct E6 6c *** 1
87 The Uncanny E6 6c ***  
88 Worn Out Superman E6 6b **  
89 Spellbinder
-
E4 6a *** 2
  Fire Wall
91 Fury
-
E3 5c 1
92 Burn 'Em Up
-
E5 6b 4
93 Fire
-
E3 5c ** 14
94 The Knave E3 5c * 1
95 Well Blessed E3 5b * 1
  The Castle Area
97 The Bishop
-
HVS 4c * 6
98 Cone Country
-
HVS 5a * 6
99 Bute Street
-
E3 5b 3
100 Spring Tide
-
E2 5b ** 8
101 Low Ebb
-
E3 5c ** 10
102 Poseidon HVS 5a *** 11
103 Poseidon Direct Finish
-
E1 5a 1
104 Beyond Poseidon E2 5b 1
105 The Castle VS 4b 1
  The Biscuit
107 Wafer Thin E2 5c 2
108 Cream Crackers E5 5a,5c ** 2
109 Information Recieved E4 5a,5c * 1
110 Short Dread E4 5c 2
111 Takes the Biscuit E4 5c * 1
112 Here Today E3 5b,5b 1
113 Mother Earth E2 5a ** 2
114 Sleepless Nights E4 5c 1
115 Best Of Friends E2 5a 1
116 Floozie XS 4b/c 1
117 Suspended Sentence E4 5c 1
118 No Reprieve E3 5c 1
119 Have Mercy E4 6a  
120 Quimble VS 4b 3
121 Goodnight Cowboy E2 5b 1
122 Ultra Virus E4 6a * 1
Climb name Grade
123 Last Buck E2 5b  
124 Trusty Blade E2 5b 1
  Davy Jones' Locker
126 Fast Luck E2 5b * 4
127 Mindfuck 6b+ *** 2
128 Made in Maes Cwn 6c+ *** 4
129 Skullthuggery 7b *** 1
130 Cure for the Cancer 7b+ *** 1
131 Superstitious? 7a *** 5
132 Twenty First Century 7a *** 1
133 Davey Jones’ Locker E7 6b *** 1
134 These Dangerous Seas 6b+ *** 2
135 Fast Reactions E2 5b * 3
136 The Hatch
-
HS 4a * 7
137 Here Comes The Rain VS 4c 3
138 Cold Steel
-
E2 5c 2
139 Ogmore Olympics E2 5c 4
140 One Cool Vibe E3 5c  
141 Glycogen E1 5a *** 23
142 Brain Wane E3 5b ** 2
143 Phaser E3 5c *** 9
144 Whatever Next E5 5c  
145 Stray Dog
-
HVS 4c 6
146 Fashoda Chimney
-
VD * 8
147 General Gordon VS 5
148 A Tale of High Adventure VS 4b 5
149 Lady Jane HVS 4a,4c 4
150 Norwegian Wood E2 5b 2
151 Black Looks E5 5c * 2
152 Spring Fever
-
E3 5c 2
153 Falsity E2 5b 2
154 Sense of Adventure HVS 4b * 1
155 Blackjack VS 4b *** 1
156 Pontoon VS 4c 2
157 No Sense Venture VS 4b ** 4
158 Capital Venture VS 4b *** 3
159 Joint Venture HVS 4c *** 3
160 Wimaway HVS 4b *  
161 The Hunchback E1 5a 3
162 Night Games E4 5c  
163 To Mitzy A Pup E4 6a **  
164 Two Peas E2 5a * 2
165 Against The Grain E3 5c 3
166 Moonlight Flit E1 5b 4
167 Via Normale
-
D 8
168 L'Escargot
-
VS 4b 7
169 Birthday Bash MVS 4b 1
170 Overdue
-
VS 4b 9
171 The Timely Trick E1 5b 3
172 Tattered Adventurer HVS 5a *** 2
173 Another Christmas Tree Adventure VS 4c ** 2
174 Arkle HVS 5a 1
175 Becher's Brook VS 4b 1
176 Bat Boxer * VS 4b 1
177 Bat Buster * HVS 4c 1
178 To The Batcave Robin * HVS 4c * 1
179 Threading The Goose * HVS 5a * 1
180 Pluck A Duck * E1 5b * 1
181 Battered * HVS 4c * 1
182 One Golden Cup * HVS 5a * 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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