UKC

Climbs 158
Rocktype Limestone

Faces S

Ogmore sunset © Mark Salter

Crag features

.Fatntastic crag. Generally steep and overhanging rock - mostly good but "some of the finishes and occasionally entire routes" can be unstable. In-situ gear may be corroded. A real adventure experience, not to be underrated; if you think Pembroke grades are 'real' be prepared for a total pasting. Routes up to 36m.

Approach notes

Tidal - extremely so, with tides rising 6m to 9m up the cliff.
Take the road from Ogmore by Sea (B4524) tw Southerndown Bay to a sharp bend passing West Farm (just after sign marking Southerndown boundary). Park in grassy area bounded by concrete posts. The tea shop is now a Jazz venue which does have a Cafe/Bar, called The Barn.
Walk down grassy gully tw sea to narrow path running W. Abseil approach. There are some stakes, but there are also a number of bolts to abseil off as well.

Guidebooks

The routes I've climbed here feel bigger and harder than the grade suggests. Not a place to push your grade?
Mattress - 22/Jul/05
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  The Western Crag
2 Spangle Texture VS 4b 5
3 In Dispute With Nappy Rash
-
HVS 5a 1
4 Raw Energy
-
E2 5c *  
5 Lipstick
-
E3 6a  
6 Winchfactor Five
-
E2 5c  
7 Chill Factor
-
HVS 5a  
8 Side Step
-
VS 4b  
9 Just Taking A Gander E1 5b 3
10 Kite
-
E1 5b 2
11 Swing Wing
-
E3 5c  
12 Mighty Steel
-
E5 6c  
13 Storm Damage E2 5b  
14 Christmas Cracker HVS 4c 6
15 Christmas Hangover HS 4b 14
16 Strategic Zap Attack
-
E3 6b 1
17 Wazzock
-
HVS 5a 11
18 Now Your Goose Is Cooked
-
HVS 5a 4
19 Sauce For The Goose HVS 5b 5
20 Goose Step VS 4b 5
21 Slippery jim HVS 4c  
  Twinkle Buttress
23 Pillock
-
VS 4c * 12
24 Twinkle
-
D 26
25 Route 1
-
D 23
26 Sinestro S 4a * 3
27 Canute
-
VD 22
28 Canute Right Hand
-
HVS 5a 12
29 Astrobrain E6 6b *  
  Fools Fantasy
31 Leprechaun E1 5b * 5
32 Fool's Fantasy
-
E5 6a 1
33 Wipeout
-
E4 5c 4
34 Right Little Raver
-
E5 6b 1
35 Nyth
-
E3 6a 2
36 Disneyworld
-
E6 6c 1
37 Pluto
-
VS 4c ** 72
  Popular End and Elephant Wall
39 Open Invitation
-
E5 6b 1
40 Finger Print
-
E4 6a ** 12
41 Brothers In Arms
-
E6 6b 1
42 Abbey Road
-
HVS 5a *** 40
43 Roof Of The World
-
E5 6c 1
44 The Gremlin
-
E1 5a * 17
45 The Arrow
-
E2 5c ** 12
46 Titanic
-
E4 6a/b 1
47 Mauritania E5 6b *  
48 Megalopolis
-
E1 5b ** 11
49 Rat Fink
-
HVS 4c 5
50 Loaded Question
-
E3 5c 1
51 Implausible Suggestion
-
E5 6a ** 3
52 Jumping Jack Flash
-
E1 5c * 7
53 Griffin
-
E3 6a 2
54 Pinnochio
-
HVS 4c *** 60
55 Exposure Explosion
-
HVS 5a *** 126
56 Easy Livin'
-
E3 5c ** 9
57 Wave Band
-
E2 5b * 22
Climb name Grade
58 Slime Crime
-
HVS 5a * 16
59 Elephant Wall VS 4b * 52
60 Elephant Wall (Direct Finish) VS 5a * 9
  Tusker Chimney Area
62 Mind Probe
-
E2 5b * 11
63 Wet Look HVS 4c * 2
64 Tusker Chimney
-
HVS 5a ** 5
65 Flyover E3 5c * 1
66 Domestic Bliss
-
E1 5b 2
67 Domestic Responsibility
-
E2 5c * 3
68 Flash Harry
-
HS 4a ** 70
69 Yorkshire Pud
-
S 17
70 Mordred
-
HVS 4c 9
71 tim's Route VD * 8
  Scutch Buttress
73 The Dribbling Douh What HVS 4c 2
74 Scutch
-
HVS 5b 8
75 Cold Front
-
HVS 5b * 1
  Tiger Bay
77 Quick Draw
-
E4 6a 2
78 Siren Direct
-
VS 4c 5
79 Total Eclipse of the Sun
-
E8 6b  
80 A Bigger Splash E3 5c *** 5
  Sorcery Wall
82 The Uncanny Direct E6 6c *** 1
83 The Uncanny E6 6c ***  
84 Worn Out Superman E6 6b **  
85 Spellbinder
-
E4 6a *** 2
  Fire Wall
87 Fury
-
E3 5c 1
88 Burn 'Em Up
-
E5 6b 3
89 Fire
-
E3 5c ** 13
90 The Knave E3 5c *  
91 Well Blessed E3 5b * 1
  The Castle Area
93 The Bishop
-
HVS 4c * 6
94 Cone Country
-
HVS 5a * 5
95 Bute Street
-
E3 5b 2
96 Spring Tide
-
E2 5b ** 7
97 Low Ebb
-
E3 5c ** 8
98 Poseidon HVS 5a *** 10
99 Poseidon Direct Finish
-
E1 5a 1
100 Beyond Poseidon E2 5b 1
101 The Castle VS 4b 1
  The Biscuit
103 Wafer Thin E2 5c 1
104 Cream Crackers E5 5a,5c ** 1
105 Information Recieved E4 5a,5c * 1
106 Short Dread E4 5c 1
107 Takes the Biscuit E4 5c * 1
108 Here Today E3 5b,5b 1
109 Mother Earth E2 5a ** 1
110 Sleepless Nights E4 5c 1
111 Best Of Friends E2 5a 1
112 Floozie XS 4b/c  
113 Suspended Sentence E4 5c 1
114 No Reprieve E3 5c 1
Climb name Grade
115 Have Mercy E4 6a  
116 Quimble VS 4b 2
117 Goodnight Cowboy E2 5b 1
118 Ultra Virus E4 6a *  
119 Last Buck E2 5b  
120 Trusty Blade E2 5b 1
  Davy Jones' Locker
122 Fast Luck E2 5b * 3
123 Mindfuck 6b+ *** 2
124 Made in Maes Cwn 6c+ *** 4
125 Skullthuggery 7b *** 1
126 Cure for the Cancer 7b+ *** 1
127 Superstitious? 7a *** 5
128 Twenty First Century 7a *** 1
129 These Dangerous Seas 6b+ *** 1
130 Fast Reactions E2 5b * 2
131 The Hatch
-
HS 4a * 6
132 Here Comes The Rain VS 4c 3
133 Cold Steel
-
E2 5c 1
134 Ogmore Olympics E2 5c 3
135 One Cool Vibe E3 5c  
136 Glycogen E1 5a *** 23
137 Brain Wane E3 5b ** 2
138 Phaser E3 5c *** 9
139 Whatever Next E5 5c  
140 Stray Dog
-
HVS 4c 6
141 Fashoda Chimney
-
VD * 8
142 General Gordon VS 5
143 A Tale of High Adventure VS 4b 4
144 Lady Jane HVS 4a,4c 4
145 Norwegian Wood E2 5b 2
146 Black Looks E5 5c * 1
147 Spring Fever
-
E3 5c 2
148 Falsity E2 5b 2
149 Sense of Adventure HVS 4b * 1
150 Blackjack VS 4b *** 1
151 Pontoon VS 4c 2
152 No Sense Venture VS 4b ** 3
153 Capital Venture VS 4b *** 1
154 Joint Venture HVS 4c *** 3
155 Wimaway HVS 4b *  
156 The Hunchback E1 5a 2
157 Night Games E4 5c  
158 To Mitzy A Pup E4 6a **  
159 Two Peas E2 5a * 1
160 Against The Grain E3 5c 2
161 Moonlight Flit E1 5b 3
162 Via Normale
-
D 7
163 L'Escargot
-
VS 4b 4
164 Birthday Bash MVS 4b  
165 Overdue
-
VS 4b 7
166 The Timely Trick E1 5b 2
167 Tattered Adventurer HVS 5a *** 2
168 Another Christmas Tree Adventure VS 4c ** 2
169 Arkle HVS 5a 1
170 Becher's Brook VS 4b 1

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