Climbs 181
Rocktype Limestone

Faces S

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Ogmore sunset © Mark Salter

Crag features

Fantastic crag. Generally steep and overhanging rock - mostly good but "some of the finishes and occasionally entire routes" can be unstable. In-situ gear may be corroded. A real adventure experience, not to be underrated; if you think Pembroke grades are 'real' be prepared for a total pasting. Routes up to 36m.

Approach notes

Tidal - extremely so, with tides rising 6m to 9m up the cliff.
Take the road from Ogmore by Sea (B4524) tw Southerndown Bay to a sharp bend passing West Farm (just after sign marking Southerndown boundary). Park in grassy area bounded by concrete posts. The tea shop is now a Jazz venue which does have a Cafe/Bar, called The Barn.
Walk down grassy gully tw sea to narrow path running W. Abseil approach. There are some stakes, but there are also a number of bolts to abseil off as well.

Guidebooks

The routes I've climbed here feel bigger and harder than the grade suggests. Not a place to push your grade?
Mattress - 22/Jul/05
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  The Western Crag
2 Spangle Texture VS 4b 5
3 In Dispute With Nappy Rash
-
HVS 5a 1
4 Raw Energy
-
E2 5c *  
5 Lipstick
-
E3 6a  
6 Winchfactor Five
-
E2 5c  
7 Chill Factor
-
HVS 5a  
8 Side Step
-
VS 4b  
9 Just Taking A Gander E1 5b 3
10 Now Your Goose Is Cooked
-
HVS 5a 4
11 Sauce For The Goose HVS 5b 5
12 Goose Step VS 4b 5
13 Threading The Goose HVS 5a * 1
14 Pluck A Duck E1 5b * 1
15 Kite
-
E1 5b 2
16 Swing Wing
-
E3 5c  
17 Mighty Steel
-
E5 6c  
18 Storm Damage E2 5b  
19 Christmas Cracker HVS 4c 6
20 Christmas Hangover HS 4b 16
21 Strategic Zap Attack
-
E3 6b 1
22 Too Wazzocks E1 5b * 2
23 Two Pillocks HVS 5a 1
24 Wazzock HVS 5a 13
25 Slippery jim HVS 4c 2
  Twinkle Buttress
27 Pillock
-
VS 4c * 14
28 Twinkle
-
D 27
29 Route 1
-
D 25
30 Sinestro S 4a * 3
31 Canute
-
VD 24
32 Canute Right Hand
-
HVS 5a 12
33 Astrobrain E6 6b *  
  Fools Fantasy
35 Leprechaun E1 5b * 5
36 Fool's Fantasy
-
E5 6a 1
37 Wipeout
-
E4 5c 5
38 Right Little Raver
-
E5 6b 1
39 Nyth
-
E3 6a 3
40 Disneyworld
-
E6 6c 2
41 Pluto
-
VS 4c *** 84
  Popular End and Elephant Wall
43 Open Invitation
-
E5 6b 1
44 Finger Print
-
E4 6a ** 14
45 Brothers In Arms
-
E6 6b 1
46 Abbey Road
-
HVS 5a *** 47
47 Roof Of The World
-
E5 6c 1
48 The Gremlin
-
E1 5a * 17
49 The Arrow
-
E2 5c ** 18
50 Titanic
-
E4 6a/b 1
51 Mauritania E5 6b *  
52 Megalopolis
-
E1 5b ** 13
53 Rat Fink
-
HVS 4c 6
54 Loaded Question
-
E3 5c 2
55 Implausible Suggestion
-
E5 6a ** 3
56 Jumping Jack Flash
-
E1 5c * 10
57 Griffin
-
E3 6a 4
58 Pinnochio
-
HVS 4c *** 75
59 Exposure Explosion
-
HVS 5a *** 154
60 Easy Livin'
-
E3 5c ** 11
61 Wave Band
-
E2 5b * 24
62 Slime Crime
-
HVS 5a * 17
63 Elephant Wall VS 4b * 57
64 Elephant Wall (Direct Finish) VS 5a * 14
Climb name Grade
  Tusker Chimney Area
66 Mind Probe
-
E2 5b * 13
67 Wet Look HVS 4c * 6
68 Tusker Chimney
-
HVS 5a ** 7
69 Flyover E3 5c * 2
70 Domestic Bliss
-
E1 5b 3
71 Domestic Responsibility
-
E2 5c * 5
72 Flash Harry
-
HS 4a ** 84
73 Yorkshire Pud
-
S 19
74 Mordred
-
HVS 4c 11
75 tim's Route VD * 9
  Scutch Buttress
77 The Dribbling Douh What HVS 4c 5
78 Scutch
-
HVS 5b 8
79 Cold Front
-
HVS 5b * 1
  Tiger Bay
81 Quick Draw
-
E4 6a 3
82 Hired Gun E4 6a *  
83 Fair Exchange E3 6a  
84 Siren Direct
-
VS 4c 6
85 Total Eclipse of the Sun
-
E8 6b  
86 A Bigger Splash E3 5c *** 6
  Sorcery Wall
88 Mantra E5 6a **  
89 The Enchanted E5 6a *  
90 The Uncanny Direct E6 6c *** 1
91 The Uncanny E6 6c ***  
92 Buzzarena E6 6c **  
93 Sorcery E6 6b *  
94 Spellbinder
-
E4 6a *** 2
95 Flying Wizard E5 6a **  
96 Worn Out Superman E6 6b **  
97 Zardoz E5 6b *  
98 Daughter of Regals E5 6b ***  
  Fire Wall
100 Fury
-
E3 5c 2
101 Burn 'Em Up
-
E5 6b 4
102 Fire
-
E3 5c ** 14
103 The Knave E3 5c * 1
104 Well Blessed E3 5b * 1
  The Castle Area
106 The Bishop
-
HVS 4c * 7
107 Cone Country
-
HVS 5a * 6
108 Bute Street
-
E3 5b 3
109 Spring Tide
-
E2 5b ** 8
110 Low Ebb
-
E3 5c ** 10
111 Poseidon HVS 5a *** 11
112 Poseidon Direct Finish
-
E1 5a 1
113 Beyond Poseidon E2 5b 1
114 The Castle VS 4b 1
  The Biscuit
116 Wafer Thin E2 5c 2
117 Cream Crackers E5 5a,5c ** 2
118 Information Recieved E4 5a,5c * 1
119 Short Dread E4 5c 2
120 Takes the Biscuit E4 5c * 1
121 Here Today E3 5b,5b 1
122 Mother Earth E2 5a ** 2
123 Sleepless Nights E4 5c 1
124 Best Of Friends E2 5a 1
125 Floozie XS 4b/c 1
126 Suspended Sentence E4 5c 1
127 No Reprieve E3 5c 1
128 Have Mercy E4 6a  
129 Quimble VS 4b 3
Climb name Grade
130 Goodnight Cowboy E2 5b 1
131 Ultra Virus E4 6a * 1
132 Sub Sonar E4 6a * 1
133 Harmony E2 5b 1
134 Last Buck E2 5b  
135 Trusty Blade E2 5b 1
  Davy Jones' Locker
137 Fast Luck E2 5b * 4
138 Mindfuck 6b+ *** 2
139 Made in Maes Cwn 6c+ *** 4
140 Skullthuggery 7b *** 1
141 Cure for the Cancer 7b+ *** 1
142 Superstitious? 7a *** 5
143 Twenty First Century 7a *** 1
144 Davey Jones’ Locker E7 6b *** 1
145 These Dangerous Seas 6b+ *** 2
146 Fast Reactions E2 5b * 3
147 The Hatch
-
HS 4a * 7
148 Here Comes The Rain VS 4c 3
149 Cold Steel
-
E2 5c 2
150 Ogmore Olympics E2 5c 4
151 One Cool Vibe E3 5c  
152 Glycogen E1 5a *** 23
153 Brain Wane E3 5b ** 2
154 Phaser E3 5c *** 9
155 Whatever Next E5 5c  
156 Stray Dog
-
HVS 4c 6
157 Fashoda Chimney
-
VD * 8
158 General Gordon VS 5
159 A Tale of High Adventure VS 4b 5
160 Lady Jane HVS 4a,4c 4
161 Norwegian Wood E2 5b 2
162 Black Looks E5 5c * 2
163 Spring Fever
-
E3 5c 2
164 Falsity E2 5b 2
165 Sense of Adventure HVS 4b * 1
166 Blackjack VS 4b *** 1
167 Pontoon VS 4c 2
168 No Sense Venture VS 4b ** 4
169 Capital Venture VS 4b *** 3
170 Joint Venture HVS 4c *** 4
171 Wimaway HVS 4b * 1
172 Bat Boxer VS 4b 1
173 Bat Buster HVS 4c 1
174 Battered HVS 4c * 1
175 To The Batcave Robin HVS 4c * 1
176 One Golden Cup HVS 5a * 1
177 Hunchback of Mistras A2  
178 The Hunchback E1 5a 4
179 Night Games E4 5c  
180 Love Finder General E2 5b  
181 To Mitzy A Pup E4 6a **  
182 Two Peas E2 5a * 2
183 Against The Grain E3 5c 3
184 Moonlight Flit E1 5b 4
185 Via Normale
-
D 8
186 L'Escargot
-
VS 4b 7
187 Birthday Bash MVS 4b 1
188 Overdue
-
VS 4b 9
189 The Timely Trick E1 5b 3
190 Tattered Adventurer HVS 5a *** 2
191 Another Christmas Tree Adventure VS 4c ** 2
192 Arkle HVS 5a 1
193 Becher's Brook VS 4b 1

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