Climbs 126
Rocktype Granite
Altitude 430m a.s.l
Faces SW

1st pitch © auld al

Crag features

Nice situation overlooking Lough Tay and the Guinness Estate. A selection of multipitch and shorter routes. Recommended by the locals.

Luggala is a serious 'mountain crag'. Most routes are rarely climbed and route finding can be a challenge.

Approach notes

The crag is on privately owned land. Quickest access is car park south of Sally Gap O138088 directly to the NW of the crag. 30 minute walk across moorland to the top of the crag followed by an unpleasant scramble down gulleys on either side of rockface.

The lower approach from the Pier Gates O172065 affords an advance view the crag. Direct approach is not permitted. The road(vechicles not permitted) must be followed to a bridge over the Cloghoge before crossing to the west side of the valley and then contouring back to the crag.

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  G Buttress
2 Lake View HS 4b *  
3 Fall Out HVS 5a *  
4 Tipping Point E1 5a *  
5 Solitary Pursuits VS 4c *  
6 Eavesdrop E1 5b *  
  H Buttress West Face
8 Paladin
-
VS 4c * 1
9 Night Raven
-
E2 5c **  
10 Fear Of Flying
-
HVS 5a *  
11 Pedestal
-
E1 5b *  
12 Bearcats
-
VS 4c * 3
13 Detour VS 4c *  
14 Touchstone E1 5b * 1
15 Saraband E1 5b *  
16 Normative Behaviour HVS 5b *  
  H Butress South Face
18 Outlaw VS 4c *  
19 Sirius
-
HVS 5a *  
20 Troy HVS 5a *  
21 Pooka VS 4c *  
22 Thunderbolt E1 5c *  
23 Lightfoot E1 5b *  
24 Bran VS 4c ** 6
25 Javelin
-
E1 5b ***  
  Woody Wall
27 Hyrax HVS 4c *  
28 Woodstock E2 5b *  
29 Definitely Not The Beach E2 5b *  
30 Caravan E2 5b **  
31 All Along The Watchtower
-
VS 4b *** 2
32 Man Diesel E5 6a **  
  South Butress (Creag Fasra)
34 Peregrine E2 5c **  
35 Warrior HVS **  
36 Ivanhoe VS 4c *  
37 Steppenwolf
-
E1 5b *** 2
38 Mouse Maze HVS 5a *  
39 Muskrat Ramble HVS 5a *** 10
40 Thriller
-
E3 5c *** 2
41 Electric Ladyland E2 5c **  
42 Wasp HVS 5b *  
43 Crevasse Routee
-
VS 4c *  
44 The Real Thing HVS 5a **  
45 Offspring VS 4c * 1
46 Silent Spring HVS 5a *  
47 Conscript E1 5b *  
48 Volunteers E1 5b, 5b ** 1
49 Left Side Climb VS 4c * 3
50 Left Side Climb Direct HVS 5b ** 7
51 Pine Tree Butress S 4a *** 20
52 Lonesome Pine E1 5b ** 1
53 Taktix HS 4b ** 2
  Main Face
55 Pisces
-
HVS 5a *  
56 Along The Edge
-
VS *  
57 Pathfinder
-
VS *  
58 Gateway
-
E1 **  
59 The Travellers Journey
-
VS 4c,4b **  
60 Charon
-
E1 *  
61 Dawn Swept
-
E1 *  
62 Clingon / Claidheamh Solais VS 4c ** 19
63 Pentax
-
VS *  
64 Spearhead
-
HVS 5a ** 5
65 Razorback
-
E4 6b ***  
66 The Great Roof
-
E6 5c,6c *** 2
67 The Gannets
-
E3 5c *** 2
68 Juniper Junction
-
E5 6b ***  
69 Soyuz 10
-
E6 5c **  
70 Main Face Traverse
-
VS *  
71 The Search For Spock
-
E3 6a **  
72 Banshee E2 5c ** 1
73 Precious Metal
-
E7 6c **  
74 Messiah
-
E1 *  
75 Obelix
-
E1 *  
76 Hairspring
-
E1 *  
77 Gossamer
-
HVS *  
  North Buttress (Creag Thuaidh )
79 Lounge Lizard
-
E2 5b *  
80 Dreamtime
-
E4 6a ***  
81 Stampede
-
VS 4c *  
82 Official
-
E2 5b ** 2
83 Dance Of The Tumblers
-
E1 5b *** 6
84 Albatross
-
HVS 5a **  
85 Tardis
-
VS 4c *  
86 Voyager
-
HVS 5a *  
87 Beatnik
-
VS 4c *  
88 Nanuk
-
VS 4c *  
89 Rock On
-
VS 4c *  
90 Vita Brevis
-
HVS 5b *  
  Conifer Buttress
92 Highway
-
VS 4c ** 2
93 No Quarter E1 5b **  
94 Man O' War E3 5c **  
95 Stagefright HVS 5a **  
96 Curved Air VS 4b ** 4
97 Heavenly Blue HVS 5a *  
98 Byway HVS 5a *  
99 Higher Raptures HVS 5b *  
100 Escalator VS 4c *  
101 Humble Pie HVS 5a *  
102 Fumble High E1 5b **  
103 High And Dry E3 5c **  
104 Tumbledown E1 5b *  
105 Squawk HS 4b *  
106 Harvest E1 5c *  
107 Searcher VS 4c *  

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