Climbs 111
Rocktype Granite
Altitude 253m a.s.l
Faces S

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Les Orgyies © Rog Wilko

Crag features

This granite crag is rather reminiscent of Dewerstone, and is pleasantly sited. It gets a lot of sun, though the foot of the crag is well-shaded by trees. It has about 80 routes up to 40m long and with a wide spread of grades. Well bolted. As the names of routes are not on the rock a guide or topo is needed. You can pick up a topo at the tabac in the village of Toutry which lies about three miles north of Vieux Chateau.

 

The 2003 Jingo-Wobbly Guidebook (Bourgogne a vue) contains a significant number of errors including incorrect lines, grades and a large number of incorrect/made up names. I have included some of the Jingo-Wobbly names in brackets after the correct name. Please try to use the correct route name where possible to avoid adding duplicated climbs.

Approach notes

Lies about 10 miles east of Avallon (which in turn lies about 20 miles SE of Auxerre). The village of Vieux Chateau lies between the A6 autoroute to the north and the RN6 to the south. The crag, known locally as Roches de Ste. Catherine, is clearly signed from the centre of the village. It lies on the sunny north side of the River Serein valley and is reached by a circuitous path from the car park.

Most of the routes have names and grades painted at the bottom. These often don't agree with the Jingo Wobbly guide, though the grades on the rock seem far more accurate than those in the book (of 2003 vintage) which seem often very under graded. There are far more routes than are listed here or in the book.
ashaughnessy - 09/Sep/15
A great little crag, I also said feels like the Dewerstone as we walked down, only bigger. It is well described in the Jingo Wobbly (2014) France rock 1.
Norman_P_W - 24/Jul/15
Hi All, there is a new version of Jingo Wobbly guide book that pretty much covers the place. I have the original version of the JW guide if anyone wants it.
paul_j_burgess - 09/Jun/14
There are a number of sectors that aren't included in the Jingo Wobbly Bourgogne guide, to the right of the main section. In addition, the names and grades sometimes don't match between the local topo and the JW guide. Top quality granite crag, and not too much of a detour off the A6 for those passing through the area.
James Gilbert - 11/Oct/10
While we didn't manage to climb here this time because of awful weather, we expect to be back. We bought the topo, but couldn't see in it a number of the routes listed above. Not sure why.
Rog Wilko - 18/May/10
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  La Tour Penchee (Santana)
2 Little Big Man
-
5b  
3 A L'Aise Blaise
-
4a  
4 Blaise Directe 5c  
5 Santana
-
5b  
  La Tour de Guet (Escargot/Autoroute)
7 Vieille Chargone
-
5b  
8 Un Bon Jour Pour Mourir
-
4a  
9 Craginos Directe 5c  
10 Craginos
-
5b  
11 C'est pas Méchant / Escargot Lost in the Jungle
-
3a  
12 Mao / Escapades des Escargots 3c 4
13 Trouneuneuse
-
4b  
  Les Grandes Dalles (Escargot/Autoroute)
15 Apelle le Docteur Directe 7b+  
16 Apelle le Docteur / Escargot on the Rocks 6c  
17 Athlétic Foot / His car got stolen 6a+ ** 3
18 Le Calin / Riding the Wild Escargot
-
4c ** 9
19 Isadorable
-
5c 1
20 Titi / Escargot Vitesse
-
4c 16
21 Les Sucettes a L'Annie / Garlic Cremation 5b *** 18
22 Vieux Motard que J'amais / Escargot of Love
-
6a *** 8
23 Le Vieil Homme et Mémère / Mutant Ninja Escargot 6a *** 15
  Le Grand Diedre (Autoroute)
25 Coquin de Sport
-
6a+  
26 Traces de Pneus
-
6c  
27 Le Pneus Sans Arête 7b  
28 Grand Horizon 6c  
29 Horizon Funèbre
-
6b+  
30 Les Enfants du Roc
-
5c ** 5
31 Les Toit des Enfants
-
8a  
32 L'Arête dans le Ciel
-
6a  
33 L'Autoroute du Sud 5b *** 9
  Le Mur
35 Quinou
-
6a+ *** 6
36 La Bébète
-
6b *** 5
37 Siegfried Gauche 7a 1
38 Siegfried 6c+  
39 Siegfried-Toit
-
8a  
40 Pute Borgne 6b 2
41 Banana Split
-
6b 1
Climb name Grade
42 Miguel 7a+ ** 1
43 San Miguel 7a+  
44 Hypertension
-
6a+ 1
45 Super Hypertension 7a+  
46 La Vie Duraille
-
5c  
47 Duraille Continuation 6a  
48 Ginseng 5c  
49 Anticuenne
-
5a  
50 Les Betises de Laura
-
6a * 1
  Les Petites Dalles (Warrior)
52 The Warrior / Misanthropie Philogyne 'san l'arete' 7b ** 2
53 Misanthropie Philogyne
-
6b 3
54 Sous les Grattons la Plage
-
6a ** 6
55 Schmuntz
-
4c * 6
56 La Bleau I / Isatis 6a+ *** 14
57 La Bleau II / Cuvier 5c 5
58 L'Oubliée
-
4b  
59 Le Bloc I
-
3a 1
60 Le Bloc II
-
5b  
61 Le Bloc III
-
5b  
62 Le Bloc IV
-
5b  
63 Le Bloc V
-
6b  
  Le Bastion (Lapin and Géronimo)
65 Sitting Bull
-
5c  
66 Crazy Horse
-
5b  
67 Nuage Rouge 4a ** 2
68 Le Boudoir à Tiroirs
-
4b *** 13
69 Bounder of the 1st degree * 4c *** 5
70 Le Lapin Directe 5c *** 5
71 Lapin / Le Lapin Classique
-
5a *** 18
72 Les Orgyies 4a *** 6
73 Jugged Hare * 4c *** 13
74 Le Roi Lézard
-
4b 4
75 Ottomania / Walnut 6b  
76 Otorinoféroce 6c  
77 Nana’s Gully / Nanar's Gully 5b  
78 Glamour Directe 5c  
79 Glamour 5a 1
80 Nanar's Pilier / Nanar's Pillar
-
5b  
81 Cochise
-
6a 1
82 Wounded Knee 5c 1
Climb name Grade
83 Extra-Therese
-
6a * 2
84 Géronimo
-
4a  
85 Vachodrome
-
5b  
86 Fissure Oubliée 5a  
87 La Couennasse 7a  
88 Le Couennard 7a  
  Mika
90 Rwanda
-
4c  
91 Hutu Tribal
-
4a  
92 Moro-Naba
-
5c  
93 Elsa
-
5b 2
94 Salam
-
6a  
95 Shalom
-
6a  
96 Bernard Gauche
-
6a  
97 La Bernard Derain 6a ** 1
98 Toit Direct 7b  
99 L'Ours
-
4b  
100 Renfougne
-
5c  
101 Mika
-
5c  
102 Mika Directe
-
5a  
103 Plutonique
-
5a 1
104 Smilla
-
5a 2
  Lolita
106 Phenix and Co
-
6b 2
107 Lolita à Gauche
-
5c  
108 Lolita Eliminate
-
6a 1
109 Lolita
-
5a 2
110 Zyeux Bleus
-
4c  
111 Sunday Morning Blues
-
6b  
112 Le Couloir
-
3a 1
113 Le General
-
4c 1
114 Diédre Serein
-
4c 3
115 Apostasie
-
6b  
116 Bavella
-
5c  
  Bavella
118 Bavella Direct
-
8a  
119 Cadavre Exquis Gauche
-
5c  
120 Cadavre Exquis
-
4c  
121 Zarbi
-
6a 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer SDM