Climbs 51
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 50m a.s.l
Faces SW

Naybrew, V3, 6a, Lonnen Quarry, Tyne and wear © John Lavelle

Crag features

A good bouldering/soloing area on the edge of some playing fields in South Shields.

The North of England Rock Climbs guidebook also describes Cleadon Crags near the old windmill. I searched it out on 11/9/07. Beware - it's not a place for shorts; forestry workers overalls would be better. The place is very overgrown and you can't top out most of the routes. It's also very small. Stick to Lonnen Quarry (and The Cove) in future!

21/03/10 - Just updated all the climbs that are possible. A lot of the place has been taken over by trees and bushes. Most of the routes you can top out except for Black butress. Top ropes are advisable as the top is very brittle (I've experienced this first hand by falling from the top onto my back, luckily I didn't land on a car battery or any other bits of rubbish that litters the place) - If you're not top roping I strongly recommend a pad!

I'm unsure on the grades - I have copied straight from the "North East Climbing" guidebook.

Went there yesterday and the harsh winter has killed a lot of the nasty vegetation!

A GOOD GUIDE CAN BE FOUND HERE - http://www.climbonline.co.uk/cleadon.htm

Approach notes

Overlooks the football fields adjacent to Quarry Lane in South Shields, on the edge of the Cleadon Hills

A bit complicated to find. Heading E on the A194 to S Shieds, turn right onto John Reid road (A1300). Turn right at the roundabout with a clock in the middle and after 100 mtrs turn left immedaitely before the trees and go up the minor road with Cleadon Park on the right. After the school the crag will be seen on the right. Park at the houses 1m from the crag.

More details can be found on www.climbonline.co.uk
Steve Crowe - 07/Mar/13
Going to visit Cleadon Quarry tommorow bout 12ish get some decent photos.
Bloomy - 18/Aug/11
Good bouldering, near to Newcastle and 25m from the road. Well worth a visit if in the area and at a loose end, especially if you also visit The Cove.
craig h - 02/Nov/07
The name of the crag is actually Cleadon Quarry and is a extremely useful and free traing wall.
L.G - 31/Dec/04
Underrated. It has a good bouldering section on the main wall. It does offer short climbs - a good fence at the top to tie in. Problem with vegetation underfoot and on top plus litter doesn't make it immediately appealing! I'll follow up with some pics.
Clive - 04/Oct/02
Login as Existing User to add your comments

Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  White wall
2 The Arete VB 10
3 Small Wall VB 4c 12
4 Small Crack VB 4a 11
5 Short Wall V1 5b 12
6 Short Crack VB 4b 11
7 Left Wall VB 4c * 7
8 Central Wall V2 5c 5
9 Golden Years V1 5b 8
10 Central Groove VB 4a 11
11 Right Wall Eliminate V3 6a * 8
12 Right Wall VB 4c *** 9
13 Blunt Bulge V0 5a 7
14 Original route VB 4a ** 14
15 Hidden Wall V1 5b 9
16 Depresson VB 4b 12
17 Grooveline VB 4c 7
18 Pock wall VB 4b 7
19 The corner VB 4b 10
20 Girdle Traverses V2 5a/5c 4
21 Clit V2 5c * 4
22 Naybrew V3 6a * 7
23 Jug Wall V3 6a 4
24 Thin White Crack V2 5c ** 7
  Black Buttress
26 Patriarch V1 5b 3
27 Chord Crack VB 4b 3
28 The Improviser V1 5b 3
29 The Supervisor V2 5c 3
30 The Supervisor Direct Start V4 6b 3
31 The Rat V0 5a * 7
32 Black Wall Girdle V1 5b/6b ** 6
33 Ragged Crack VB 4c 9
34 Left-Hand Variation VB 4b 3
Volunteer to moderate Lonnen Quarry (aka Cleadon Quarry)
We rely on volunteers to moderate their local crags. You would check updates and approve climbs added to the database. It's a very easy job, and all you need is a guidebook and an hour or two each month. [ read more ]