Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Climbing on a sunny sea cliff in Kerry © Harry Ikin
Single pitch sandstone sea cliffs from 16m to 40m and a fine 30m needle. It's an amazing setting and the rock is excellent. Approach by abseil or via a scramble down Peter Pan at VDiff.
Location: Situated about 4 miles from Dingle, Co. Kerry. Sheet 70 (Kerry) Ordinance Survey 1:50,000 grid ref. V 478 986.
Approach: From Dingle town, take the N86 to Tralee for about 2-3 miles, until you see a signpost for the Dingle racecourse. Take this road, and about 1/2 mile down, take a left. Follow this. If you go to end you come to a pretty beach. However 1/4 mile before beach there is a right turn with climbers sign. Follow this to end. Park by old stone house and leave money in honesty box on window ledge. Continue on track to end and cross 2 fields to Walk to the headland (about 15 mins). Once you have reached on the headland (the highest point), you'll need to drop to your left (east side of the cliffs). It's quite a sheer drop and it's not for the faint hearted. Finally abseil to the ledges below or scramble down Peter Pan to the left.
Description: Rock quality is excellent. Routes range from V. Diff to E4. Some routes seem vegetated but are actually very clean, e.g. Uncle Alister and Giraffe.
Access: Access is reasonable. Groups of 6 or more should check with the farmer first. No camping on the headland or the beach.
Note: Apparently the famer who owns the land running up to Dunshean head, one of the best climbing spots in Kerry, has complained recently about gates left open by walkers/climbers. Please make sure the gate is closed to ensure that access continues to be straightforward to the headland.
The walk in crosses privately owned farm land. Gates should be closed and care taken not to damage fences etc. As of summer 2017 access has changed..do not park at beach. Park in climbers car park and leave 5 euro donation per climber in honesty box
The walk in crosses privately owned farm land. Gates should be closed and care taken not to damage fences etc
The sandstone cliffs of Dunshean Head, just east of Dingle are attracting an increased number of climbers. Patrick Farrell, the new landowner at Dunshean has requested that people planning to climb there text him in advance on 086 3363286. Patrick has made it clear that he welcomes responsible climbers, but he would like to know when people are using the crag. Access to Dunshean Head is across farmland from the parking area at the end of the road. Please be discreet and keep to the bottom of the gardens as you pass the two houses near the car park. Walk towards the raised headland by crossing the lower end of the first three fields. Take care crossing walls and beware that the electric fence will be on when there are cattle grazing in the fields. Due to the presence of livestock, dogs are not permitted on the land at Dunshean. Camping is not allowed at the headland. Climbers are asked to respect these guidelines so as to maintain positive relations and ensure continued climbing at Dunshean Head.