Climbs 26
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)

Faces S

Climbing on a sunny sea cliff in Kerry © Harry Ikin

Crag features

Single pitch sandstone sea cliffs from 16m to 40m and a fine 30m needle. It's an amazing setting and the rock is excellent. Approach by abseil or via a scramble down Peter Pan at VDiff.

Location: Situated about 4 miles from Dingle, Co. Kerry. Sheet 70 (Kerry) Ordinance Survey 1:50,000 grid ref. V 478 986.

Approach: From Dingle town, take the N86 to Tralee for about 2-3 miles, until you see a signpost for the Dingle racecourse. Take this road, and about 1/2 mile down, take a left. Follow this. If you go to end you come to a pretty beach. However 1/4 mile before beach there is a right turn with climbers sign. Follow this to end. Park by old stone house and leave money in honesty box  on window ledge. Continue on track to end and cross 2 fields to  Walk to the headland (about 15 mins). Once you have reached on the headland (the highest point), you'll need to drop to your left (east side of the cliffs). It's quite a sheer drop and it's not for the faint hearted. Finally abseil to the ledges below or scramble down Peter Pan to the left.

Description: Rock quality is excellent. Routes range from V. Diff to E4. Some routes seem vegetated but are actually very clean, e.g. Uncle Alister and Giraffe.

Details http://wiki.climbing.ie/index.php/Dunshean_Head/D%C3%BAn_S%C3%A9anna

Access: Access is reasonable. Groups of 6 or more should check with the farmer first. No camping on the headland or the beach.

Note: Apparently the famer who owns the land running up to Dunshean head, one of the best climbing spots in Kerry, has complained recently about gates left open by walkers/climbers. Please make sure the gate is closed to ensure that access continues to be straightforward to the headland.

Approach notes

The walk in crosses privately owned farm land. Gates should be closed and care taken not to damage fences etc. As of summer 2017 access has changed..do not park at beach. Park in climbers car park and leave  5 euro donation per climber in honesty box

Access Advice

The walk in crosses privately owned farm land. Gates should be closed and care taken not to damage fences etc

The sandstone cliffs of Dunshean Head, just east of Dingle are attracting an increased number of climbers. Patrick Farrell, the new landowner at Dunshean has requested that people planning to climb there text him in advance on 086 3363286. Patrick has made it clear that he welcomes responsible climbers, but he would like to know when people are using the crag. Access to Dunshean Head is across farmland from the parking area at the end of the road. Please be discreet and keep to the bottom of the gardens as you pass the two houses near the car park. Walk towards the raised headland by crossing the lower end of the first three fields. Take care crossing walls and beware that the electric fence will be on when there are cattle grazing in the fields. Due to the presence of livestock, dogs are not permitted on the land at Dunshean. Camping is not allowed at the headland. Climbers are asked to respect these guidelines so as to maintain positive relations and ensure continued climbing at Dunshean Head.

The link in the description doesn't work anymore,the updated link is: http://wiki.climbing.ie/index.php/Dunshean_Head/D%C3%BAn_S%C3%A9anna
Stopsy - 23/Apr/14
Hi Terrance, thanks for the offer again- have removed myself- makes sense someone in the country does it! Cheers
marcushorgan - 08/Jun/12
Hi Marcus. I'm Happy to moderate this crag now if you still want me to. I think you need to remove yourself from it or something.Cheers
Terrance Glancy - 08/Jun/12
This appears to be a duplicate entry.
Rog Wilko - 29/Dec/11
sheet 70(kerry) Ordinance Survey 1:50000 grid ref(V 478 986). from Dingle take N86 to Tralee 3 miles, take road to Dingleracecourse
steve2006 - 02/Oct/10
found map reference lat 52 06.5'N long 10 13 W (hamlet called doonsheane (near Dingle) County Kerry, Ireland)
steve2006 - 22/Sep/10
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  The Needle
2 The Razor's Edge VS 4c *** 15
3 JUMBO E1 5b *** 1
4 JUMBO variation HVS 5a *  
5 STINKY PHOO E1 5b *** 6
6 Giraffe VS 4c ** 9
7 Flashback S 2
8 Uncle Alister HVS 5a ** 6
  Main Face
10 Flashforward HS 2
11 Echo Beach E2 5b *  
12 Heartbeat City E3 5c *** 2
13 Garden of Earthly Delights E4 6b **  
14 Broad Street E4 6a *** 1
15 Fada Amach E2 5c *** 8
16 Grand Larceny HVS 5a ** 5
17 Deliverance VS 4c ** 14
18 Hot Chocolate E1 5b * 1
19 Cocomotion E1 5b ** 3
20 Panache HS 4b ** 12
21 Banana Split VS 4c *** 13
22 Thievery HS 10
23 A bird never flew on one wing HS 4b 4
24 Openers MS 4a 16
25 Unnamed HS 1
26 Nutella HS ** 5
27 Monkey Nuts S 9
28 Peter Pan VD 8

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