Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude 29m a.s.l
Climbing on a sunny sea cliff in Kerry © Harry Ikin
Single pitch sandstone sea cliffs from 16m to 40m and a fine 30m needle. It's an amazing setting and the rock is excellent. Approach by abseil or via a scramble down Peter Pan at VDiff.
Location: Situated about 4 miles from Dingle, Co. Kerry. Sheet 70 (Kerry) Ordinance Survey 1:50,000 grid ref. V 478 986.
Approach: From Dingle town, take the N86 to Tralee for about 2-3 miles, until you see a signpost for the Dingle racecourse. Take this road, and about 1/2 mile down, take a left. Follow this. If you go to end you come to a pretty beach. However 1/4 mile before beach there is a right turn with climbers sign. Follow this to end. Park by old stone house and leave money in honesty box on window ledge. Continue on track to end and cross 2 fields to Walk to the headland (about 15 mins). Once you have reached on the headland (the highest point), you'll need to drop to your left (east side of the cliffs). It's quite a sheer drop and it's not for the faint hearted. Finally abseil to the ledges below or scramble down Peter Pan to the left.
Description: Rock quality is excellent. Routes range from V. Diff to E4. Some routes seem vegetated but are actually very clean, e.g. Uncle Alister and Giraffe.
Access: Access is reasonable. Groups of 6 or more should check with the farmer first. No camping on the headland or the beach.
Note: Apparently the famer who owns the land running up to Dunshean head, one of the best climbing spots in Kerry, has complained recently about gates left open by walkers/climbers. Please make sure the gate is closed to ensure that access continues to be straightforward to the headland.
The walk in crosses privately owned farm land. Gates should be closed and care taken not to damage fences etc. As of summer 2017 access has changed..do not park at beach. Park in climbers car park and leave 5 euro donation per climber in honesty box
|2||The Razor's Edge||VS 4c ***||17|
|3||JUMBO||E1 5b ***||2|
|4||JUMBO variation||HVS 5a *|
|5||STINKY PHOO||E1 5b ***||8|
|6||Giraffe||VS 4c **||11|
|8||Uncle Alister||HVS 5a **||6|
|11||Echo Beach||E2 5b *|
|12||Heartbeat City||E3 5c ***||3|
|13||Garden of Earthly Delights||E4 6b **|
|14||Broad Street||E4 6a ***||2|
|15||Fada Amach||E2 5c ***||9|
|16||Grand Larceny||HVS 5a **||5|
|17||Deliverance||VS 4c **||15|
|18||Hot Chocolate||E1 5b *||1|
|19||Cocomotion||E1 5b **||3|
|20||Panache||HS 4b **||13|
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