Climbs 25
Rocktype Microgranite

Faces NW

Infantile Disorder 3 © kevin stephens

Crag features

The Gallery is an outstanding new crag on the North Wales coast. The rock is Quart Enstatite Micro-Diorite (so there!). The crag is partly quarried with slabby starts, sometimes powerful and technial finishes with pitches up to 30m in length. There are lots of lay-away moves and undercuts and the friction is excellent. Apparently fragile fins are solid! Be wary of some very sharp edges, many of which have been blunted deliberately, but care with the ropes is still required.

The crag consists of three main areas:

1. A lower tier which rises from the sandy beach and has some unrecorded trad. routes.

2. The main wall which is immediately above the footpath/cycle-way with sport routes of up to 30m. The crag faces north west and gets the sun from mid afternoon.

3. The upper crag, which has two brilliant routes and which is north-facing.

It is thought that the main crag is worked out apart from the extreme left wing. Further additions between the exisiting routes would lead to overcrowding and compromise the idnependance of the exisiting routes. There is some potential for more routes on the upper crag but extreme care would be needed on routes further to the right of the exisiting routes because of the possibility of dislodging rocks onto the cycle-way below.

Routes are graded for on-sight ascents with no prior knowledge.

All of the routes were led and equipped by Colin Struthers and Nadim Siddiqui. with assistance from Jim Burton, Nick Colton and Kevin Stephens.

Approach notes

The Gallery main crag is above a public cycle and walk way and there are no access restrictions.

From the East (Chester, Llandudno etc.): Exit the Penmaenbach tunnel and after ½ mile come off the A55 expressway at Junction 16A (signposted

Really interesting crag with a unique style of climbing that is so different to limestone. Avoid on windy days. A few routes have bolt hangars missing for some reason: Swiss Tony and maybe Fever Pitch.
stp - 23/May/17
Great local crag, especially for training. It deserves more traffic!
dswansonlow - 09/Dec/13
Emperor's new clothes?! We will not be returning.
Bulls Crack - 08/Jul/13
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Left-Hand Wall
2 On a Swing and a Prayer 6b+ * 26
3 Infantile Disorder 6c+ ** 12
4 Nil by Mouth 6c+ * 3
5 Language Truth and Logic 7a+ * 3
6 Stagger Lee 7a * 3
7 Intimate Strangers 7a * 1
8 Renaissance Man 7a+ ** 10
9 Fever Pitch 6c+ * 1
10 Swiss Tony 6b 6
  Right-Hand Wall
12 Criminals of Want 6b+ 7
13 The View Belongs to Everyone 6b ** 52
14 This Land is Your Land 6c *** 17
15 Free the Forwyn 6c+ * 2
16 You Can do Magic 7a+ * 1
17 Put a Spell on You 7a ** 7
18 Truly, Madly, Steeply 7b * 1
19 Finnegan's Wake 7a+ 1
20 The Evil that Men Do 7b *  
21 Rock Savage 7b+ 2
22 Ourselves Alone 7a+  
23 Violet's Leap 7a+ * 1
24 One Nation under a Groove 6a+ 10
  Upper Wall
26 Iskra 6b+ *** 23
27 Maximum R&B 7a ** 2

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