Climbs 82
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude 1000m a.s.l
Faces W

Carrie Hill midway up the long single-pitch line of Weeping Stump (5b) at the Sap Rising Area, Mountain Ash © Mark Glaister

Crag features

A good, popular crag. Basically the quarry is a large overgrown box, although all but a few of the routes are vegetation free and in cleared areas. Apart from the routes in the main left-hand bay the routes dry quickly and are slime free. The rock is mostly very good except for the trad routes in the central section. All the sports routes are well equipped, although some have only a single BB at present so topping out/abseiling from trees is strongly recommended. The left-hand section is a series of orange walls and a good sun trap in winter. The right-hand section by contrast is shady and can be damp, but does stay dry in light drizzle due to the trees. Between these two sections are some short easy slabs for the novice sports climber and a short terrace - the Sports For All Wall. There is also a poor natural sandstone edge, up and left from the quarry proper and a recently re-discovered better one some 300m to the right.

Tends to stay wet, and is broken in places. However has some good faces with good routes up to 45m, Pastis On Ice (Fr7a+) and Whiter Than White Wall (Fr7a+).

Approach notes

If on foot, take the train to Mountain Ash, and leave the station onto the first road encountered. Turn left, and follow the road out of the town for about 400m to a track crossing through an old works. Go through this and continue over a footbridge. From the end of this footbridge cross the road and walk straight up to the main road (A4059). Turn right and proceed for about 400m to the last few houses in Mountain Ash. Turn left onto the estate and immediately left again, then take the first right to an obvious track leading uphill past some garages. Where the track veers off right, scramble up the bank to a path and follow this rightwards to enter the quarry.

If coming by car, simply follow the A4059, and take the first turning right after the first few houses to reach the same spot. If you pass a garage on the left you have gone too far. It is possible to park on the estate.

Found by the A4059 Abercynon-Aberdare road: from Abercynon a row of houses on the R starts Mountain Ash. Take the first R turn, and park in the first row of terraces. Be considerate how and where you park.

Take the path into the woods: the quarry is on it.

If you are using SAT NAV try postcode: CF45 4HH. the main street you can park on is Mary Street. Park near house numbers 1 - 20. Track up to the crag should be visible.


South Wales Sport Climbs

South Wales Sport Climbs covers the area to the south of the Brecon Beacons, spanning the land and sea cliffs from the River Wye on the Welsh border to Pembrokeshire in the west. The area is home to a wealth of sport climbing on a multitude of venues ranging from small inland quarries to extensive limestone sea cliffs.
More info
18/02/2015 - "Whiter Than White Wall" has been cleaned and is currently in condition, however i am fairly certain a hold below crux has come off. Maybe I am weak on the moves but feels harder the Ripe and Ready crux which goes at 7b+.
dmacmorris - 18/Feb/15
Currently recieving a 2014 facelift (after the BMC 2008 facelift).
alan rosier - 16/Jul/14
Not awful and good if you're local, but it was all a little loose and overgrown.
Jon_Warner - 15/Apr/14
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 Spittle Jaccuzzi HVS 5b 1
2 Fist In Vice HVS 4c 1
3 20 Years In Llangattock E1 5c 2
4 Getting Fatter S 2
5 The Spam Tree S 4
6 Another Toss Gobbler VD 3
7 Crocker's Pot S 3
8 Pork Pie Driller S 3
  Outspan Area
10 What's The Arc De Triomphe For Then? 6a 8
11 The Old Firm 6c 11
12 Coggers Lane (John You Prick) 6b+ 6
13 Beef Tasting Strawberries S 5
14 Outspan 7a+ ** 23
15 Hot Cross Guns 7b+ * 2
16 Ripe And Ready 7b+ * 6
  Contreau Area
18 Pastis On Ice 7a+ ** 24
19 Pastis On Ice Direct 7a+ * 10
20 Cointreau 7a+ *** 22
21 Choice Cut E2 1
22 Blacker Than Black 6c+ 2
23 New Wave V2 * 1
24 Branch Manager 6c+ 7
25 Branch Manager Sds f6C+ *** 3
26 Totally Stumped 6c 8
27 Molybdenum Man 6c * 50
28 Ferndale Revisited 7b * 4
29 Dusk 7a+ * 10
30 I Came 6a+ * 50
31 He Sawed 5a * 52
32 Into The Valley Of Death S 4c 2
33 I Conkered 6a+ 9
34 Taking The Pith 2 5
  Sap Rising Area
36 Bring Back the Birch 5b 23
37 Under The Axe 6b 18
38 No Barking Up This Tree 5b 37
39 A Sight For Saw Eyes 6a+ 17
40 Carpet Bombing VS 4c 3
41 Tragedy E1 * 18
42 Left Edge 6a * 4
43 More Than a Feeling 6b 6
44 The Future Holds 7b ** 12
45 Belgium VS 4c 5
46 Narcissi E1 * 7
47 Rising Sap 6a+ ** 65
48 Weeping Stump 5b * 54
  Main Bay
50 Attrocities 6b+ 7
51 A Clip Round The Year 7a+ 1
52 No Chips Round Here 7b ** 8
53 Constantinople 5c 2
54 Helmet Man's Day Off 5a 6
55 Ant Frenzy 5b 8
56 Homebase 5c 7
57 Cymru Euro 5a 4
58 Little Polvier 5a 7
59 Double Bore 6b+ * 7
60 Slap Happy 6c+ * 3
61 Sport For All 7b+ * 8
62 Sporting Supplement 6b * 17
63 Sunday Sport E3 1
64 Abdominal Showman 7a+ 1
65 A Certain Peace 6b ** 59
66 Misadventure 7a ** 53
67 Mountin' Ass-Crack 6b+ * 9
68 A Far Cry From Squamish E4 ** 12
69 Paybacks A Beech 6c+ 2
70 The Theory And Practice Of Glue Sniffing 6c+ * 4
71 Jetlagged 6c * 2
72 Sennapod Corner HVS * 5
73 Whiter Than White Wall 7a+ * 3
74 A Load Of Rubbish E2 * 2
75 Valleys Initiative 7a ** 11
76 Grave Concern 6a+ 2
77 Final Plot 6a+ 2
78 Parabola 6a+ 8
79 Ain't As Effical E3 1
80 The Entrepeneur HVS 5a 1
81 Dr. Foster And Confused Of Gloucester VS 4b 1
82 Vertical Drain HVS 4c 1
83 20,000 Llangattocks Under The Sea HS 4b 1
84 Once More Off To The Beach Dear Friends... HVS 5a * 1
  Bird's Eye View
86 Angel Flakes LH Variant HVS 5a ** 1
87 Angel Flakes VS 4c * 1

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