Climbs 94
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 400m a.s.l
Faces NW

Llangattock escarpment © soveda

Crag features

The most popular part of Llangattock. Routes up to 42m, best being Passage of Time (E1 5b**), Cry Havoc (E2 5c**), More Fool You (E4 6a**).

Approach notes

From the car park for the main area, take the trackto the RH edge of the eastern edge (small ruin). Here take the R fork in the track to te Pinnacle bay of this section.

Guidebooks

A lovely setting - great views of the Black mountains. Found that all the lines we tried were very dirty and had loads of loose rock. Some good lines but a lot of the rock is weak and friable - topping out can be difficult and there is a lack of belay possibilities at the top. Would suggest trying to ab down routes before doing them to clean and remove loose rock. Lastly lots of biting midges - until wind blows them off. Worth a visit if you're feeling adventurous:-)
evhall - 12/Jun/16
Spectacular setting, beautiful location. Rock is dense and blocky in places. Most, if not all, of the easier routes (Diff-Sev) have been trashed beyond belief by outdoor centres. I have never seen polish so bad. Apparently even the outdoor centres don't go there anymore as the routes are too trashed even for them. i.e. if you are thinking of this location as somewhere to start leading, look elsewhere. Anything above severe appears OK though.
John_Hat - 28/Aug/07
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 The Pinnacle
-
S 9
2 Scoop
-
VD 14
3 Spirogyra Corner
-
HS 4a 16
4 White Wall Direct
-
VS 4b * 23
5 Little Red Rooster
-
HVS 5b 5
6 Excalibur
-
E1 5b 12
7 Switchblade
-
HVS 5a 9
8 Straighter
-
S * 31
9 Diagonal
-
S 17
10 Ornithology
-
S 11
11 Apollo XI
-
VS 4c 17
12 Bespoke
-
VD 39
13 Spiral Stairs
-
D 29
14 Straight Stairs
-
VS 4b 5
15 Original Route
-
D 17
16 Pant-Ing
-
VS 4b 6
17 Piton Traverse
-
VD * 10
18 Raven Route
-
VD * 12
19 Crusty Wall
-
S 11
20 Sad Groove
-
S 8
21 John's Jaunt
-
HVS 4c 5
22 Dus
-
VS 4b 2
23 The Pedestal
-
VS 4b 1
24 Man About The House
-
HVS 5c 2
25 Jailbird
-
HVS 5a 1
26 The Creaking Flakes
-
E1 5b 2
27 Entertainer
-
E2 5b 2
28 Wildest Dreams
-
E2 5c * 2
29 Visions In Blue E4 6a 2
30 Ramblin' Sid
-
S 2
31 Hideaway
-
S 4
32 Hidden Rib
-
VD 9
33 Hymns And Arias E1 5c 3
34 Nice One
-
HS 4b 6
35 Fingernail Crack
-
S 21
36 Break of Day
-
HS 4a 7
37 Cuticle
-
VS 4a 15
38 Purple Putty
-
VS 4c 4
39 High Frequency
-
E2 5b 2
40 Heat Of The Moment
-
E2 5b 2
41 Strawberry Flare
-
HVS 5a 4
42 Little Overhang
-
HVS 5a 6
43 Puraka
-
HVS 4c * 6
44 Gold Rush
-
E1 5b * 4
45 Apache
-
HVS 5a 2
46 Cowboy
-
VS 4b 1
47 Passage to Andrea
-
E3 6a 2
48 Julie Andrea
-
E3 6a 2
49 White Tiger
-
E3 5c * 2
50 Wild Life
-
E2 6a 3
51 Don't Walk Over My Head
-
VS 4b 6
52 No Sh-t
-
VS 4b 3
53 Brere Rabbit
-
VD 2
54 Rotten Wall
-
S 7
55 Night Shift
-
HVS 5b 2
56 Limbo
-
S 5
57 Misty Haze
-
HS 4a 3
58 Missing Link
-
S 5
59 Dunno
-
HS 4a 5
60 Middle Corner
-
HS 4a 4
61 Corner Buttress
-
D 13
62 Corner Buttress Arete
-
VS 4b 8
63 I Can See Clearly
-
VS 4c 5
64 Man of Mystery
-
VS 4b 6
65 Suddenly Last Summer
-
VS 4c 10
66 Christmas Spirit
-
VS 4b 4
67 Perk
-
VS 4b * 23
68 Knight Flyer VS 4b 5
69 Free Runner
-
VS 4c 9
70 Cry Havoc E2 5c ** 8
71 Passage of Time
-
E1 5b ** 15
72 Singapore Sling
-
HVS 5a 3
73 Belshazzars Dream
-
VS 4b 4
74 Thread Bear
-
HS 4b 2
75 Dunno Direct * VS 4b 1
76 Hangman * E4 6a 1
77 More Fool You * 7a+  
78 IQ Test * A2  
79 Heaven Can Wait * A1  
80 Bridlevale Wall * E2 5b * 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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