Climbs 77
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 400m a.s.l
Faces N

Leading Old Shep © sniffer

Crag features

A long escarpment - extends for 3mi along the valley overlooking Crickhowell. Mostly old limestone quarries, generally solid. Exposed and cold when windy, pleasant if calm and sunny. Routes up to 43m, notable for Liberator (E3 6a) and Roaring Eighties (E5 6a).

Approach notes

Off the A465 take a lane opposite the Corn Exchange Inn past Llanelly church. Over cattle grid, steep turn R onto road following hillside. Follow for 1mi to track that forks L, below the edge: follow the track to car park on the L.

Guidebooks

Esoteric crag for the adventurous where trad routes prevail over the safety of bolts. Fantastic surroundings, memorable routes with some big leads. If you like the safety of bolt clipping please look elsewhere.
sniffer - 22/Jul/14
A crag of "national importance"??? !!!!Complete tosh,more like an outdated oasis of choss in the back of beyond.At least the locals could get round to banging in some stakes or sticking in some LO's on selected routes.
freelunchprovider - 22/Nov/13
with regards to the 'land owner' they have been cautioned by the police for stopping people from going up there and abusing people, so all is good, plus if your part of the BMC pull out your card if they give you grief and they get scared as they have no idea whit it means
Griff87 - 02/Jun/10
Apart from the bad weather this crag has some very enjoyable climbs. Be aware that there is a lot of loose rock on some of the pitches and cleaning is highly advisable before climbing. I personnaly have had some extremely good days climbing here and up to date have had no trouble with the local farmer(I might be the only one though as he knows me very well. ha!)
Mike - 02/Sep/06
\"Crag of the day!!!!????????\" Yeah just like Beruit is Country of the month or Vauxhall Viva is the car of the year!\" Last thing I head about llangattock - the \"land-owner\" had just bought a new shot-gun - not a joke people. Mate of mine was on an abeil at this crag, derigged his ropes and found that someone had poured wood preserving fluid over them. BMC have had problems with access at this crag for years. Think very carefully before you go. Please dont get necky, if you meet this farmer. I have 2 other storiies about him, but dont know if they are true - if they are STAY WELL AWAY.
Semtex - 02/Jul/02
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 Mirror
-
VS 4c 2
2 Waiting For Those Summer Evenings
-
HVS 5a 5
3 Barndoorer
-
VS 4c 2
4 Only The Lonely
-
HVS 5a 2
5 Reunion
-
E1 5b *  
6 Class of 66
-
E2 5c 1
7 Rock In A Slot
-
E3 5c * 1
8 Invert
-
HVS 5a 1
9 Whoops Brian
-
HS 5a 3
10 Alien Summer
-
E3 5c 2
11 Schools Out Forever
-
E4 6a * 2
12 Sound Barrier
-
E3 6a 1
13 Edge of Silence
-
E4 6b  
14 Cotton Wood Cafe
-
E2 5b 2
15 Wowaiuh
-
VS 4b 3
16 Wrestling The Polar Bear
-
E3 5c 2
17 Hesitation
-
HVS 4c 1
18 Bid The Return
-
E3 6a 2
19 Lost In Time
-
HVS 5a 1
20 Nic Of Time
-
HVS 5b 2
21 Bite Size
-
VS 4a 1
22 Little Jerk
-
HVS 5a 2
23 Heart Bypass
-
E2 5c *  
24 Heart Route
-
E3 5c ** 1
25 Grenoble
-
VS 4c 2
26 Poison Ivy
-
E2 5b 1
27 Old Shep E1 5a 3
28 Wicked Lauren
-
E2 5b 2
29 Gavin Cytiau likes Putty
-
HVS 5a 1
30 Em Won
-
E2 5b 1
31 Company Flow
-
VS 4c 1
32 Flik On The Rope
-
E1 5b 1
33 20,000 Leagues under The Sea
-
E3 6a 1
34 The Mile High Club
-
E3 6a  
35 Bitter Bark
-
E2 5b  
36 Z.X.
-
E1 5b  
37 Space Between My Ears
-
E2 5b  
38 Penwood Special
-
E2 5b 2
39 Wall Of Glass
-
HVS 5a 2
40 No Ref
-
HVS 5a 1
41 The Gambler
-
E2 5b 1
42 Bruten Lee
-
HVS 5a 2
43 Azolla
-
VS 4b 3
44 The Backsliding B
-
HVS 5a 1
45 Parson's Pleasure
-
E2 5b 2
46 Boozey's First Climb
-
E3 5c *  
47 Wonderful Life
-
HVS 5a 3
48 Animal Lunch Box
-
E5 6a  
49 Vendetta
-
E3 6a *  
50 Fighting Cock
-
E3 5c * 1
51 Race Against Time E1 5b 1
52 Wonderlands
-
E6 6b *  
53 Mad Hatter
-
E5 6a  
54 Stay Sharp
-
E4 6a  
55 Winning E3 5c ** 1
56 Hitman
-
E4 6b *  
57 Culmination Crack
-
E3 6a  
58 Cold Snatch
-
E1 5b * 2
59 The Big Green Pleasure Machine
-
E2 5c * 1
60 Mean Green
-
E4 6a  
61 Liberator E4 6a ** 1
62 West wind
-
E1 5a * 1
63 Tramp HVS 4c 1
64 The dark ages
-
E2 5b 1
65 Sister Sledge E1 5b 3
66 Nerve Test E2 5c 3
67 Shock Dose
-
E2 5b 1
68 Aegina
-
E1 5a 1
69 Shepherdess * V 5 ** 1
70 The Lark Ascending * E4 5c * 1
71 The (One-) Armed Man * E3 5c 1
72 Go With the Flow * VS 4a 1
73 Eastertide Crack * VD 1
74 Eastertide arete * E5 5c/6a * 1
75 Eastertide Wall * VS 4c 1
76 Eastertide Jam * VS 5a * 1
77 Biopsy Turvy * E2 5c 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer timjones