Climbs 50
Rocktype Diorites

Faces W

Ross and Paul, Local Anaesthetic E2 5b, 1st Ascent, Nibon, Shetland © CLasHeras

Crag features

A line of beautifully situated sea cliffs up to 50m in height. Mostly single-pitch but some two-pitch. The rock is diorite, very rare in the UK, and this is its largest outcropping. Microgranite also occurs within it as a "net-vein complex". Whilst the dark grey diorite is generally sound, the red microgranite is rather loose. Passive protection can be difficult to arrange and a decent supply of SLCD's advised. Birds not a problem on the better parts of the crags. Much development currently taking place. Routes from Severe - E4. SMC guide now very much out of date. Local climbing club in process of gathering info for downloadable guide on website ("Climb Shetland").

It's worth noting that few of the climbs here have been done more than once and some sorting out of possible duplicate lines still needs to be done. At least one recorded route hasn't been located at all. Star-ratings are likewise somewhat haphazard, local climbers especially having been very niggardly in awarding them. Comments by the sporadic visitors from South suggests that many routes are much better than the lack of stars suggests.

Approach notes

20 minute walk south from the road end. Abseil needed for most routes but usually decent belay ledges. Monumental gales make visits inadvisable for most of Winter.

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Nibon North 
2Off the SpikeS  
3LapdogE1 5b * 
4The Dancin' WaterE3 5c  
5Shetland SilvercraftE2 5c *** 
6Gunnister RibS  
7The FlakesVS 4c  
8BorderlineVS 4b  
9Return of the NerveS 4a  
11Empire of the SunE2 5c * 
12Thule GrooveVS 4c **1
13Black MagicE2 5c  
14I See FoulaE3 6a * 
16The Tango o' the Isles.E4 6a * 
17The Ecstasy of Gold.E1 5b  
 North Geo 
19Boo BooHVS 5a  
20Per Mare Per TerramHVS 5a  
21Yogi BraerVS 4c  
22Stridey Legs CrackE2 5c ** 
23Sweetness & LightHVS 5a ** 
24Da NjugleE2 5b ** 
25Oblique Rays of the SunVS 4c * 
26Black-eyed BiddyVS 4c * 
27FulmarificationE1 5b ** 
28Tystie CrackE2 5c *** 
29PuissanceVS 4c * 
30CelandineHVS 5b * 
32Spelimenninhir finish.VS 4b * 
33SpelimenninhirVS 4b * 
 Obvious Buttress 
35Circling Sharks.VS 4c * 
 Cavity Walls 
37Incisor InformationS  
40Molar CaseS  
41AbcessHS 4a  
42Capped RootVS 4c ** 
43All Gum and no Teeth.HS 4b  
44Cavity CrackE3 5c * 
45AmalgamVS 4c  
 Not so Obvious Buttress. 
47Local AnaestheticE2 5b *** 
 South Geo 
49Nibon CrackHVS 5b  
50Cattle RustlerE1 5b * 
51Atlantic HitsE2 5c  
52Quiet CityHVS 4c * 
53HermlessVS 4b *1
54Mincing with CherlieHVS 5a  
 Completely Unknown Buttress 
56Slice of LifeHVS 4c  

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