Climbs 50
Rocktype Diorites

Faces W

Ross and Paul, Local Anaesthetic E2 5b, 1st Ascent, Nibon, Shetland © CLasHeras

Crag features

A line of beautifully situated sea cliffs up to 50m in height. Mostly single-pitch but some two-pitch. The rock is diorite, very rare in the UK, and this is its largest outcropping. Microgranite also occurs within it as a "net-vein complex". Whilst the dark grey diorite is generally sound, the red microgranite is rather loose. Passive protection can be difficult to arrange and a decent supply of SLCD's advised. Birds not a problem on the better parts of the crags. Much development currently taking place. Routes from Severe - E4. SMC guide now very much out of date. Local climbing club in process of gathering info for downloadable guide on website ("Climb Shetland").

It's worth noting that few of the climbs here have been done more than once and some sorting out of possible duplicate lines still needs to be done. At least one recorded route hasn't been located at all. Star-ratings are likewise somewhat haphazard, local climbers especially having been very niggardly in awarding them. Comments by the sporadic visitors from South suggests that many routes are much better than the lack of stars suggests.

Approach notes

20 minute walk south from the road end. Abseil needed for most routes but usually decent belay ledges. Monumental gales make visits inadvisable for most of Winter.

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Nibon North
2 Off the Spike S  
3 Lapdog E1 5b *  
4 The Dancin' Water E3 5c  
5 Shetland Silvercraft E2 5c ***  
6 Gunnister Rib S  
7 The Flakes VS 4c  
8 Borderline VS 4b  
9 Return of the Nerve S 4a  
10 Jerome D  
11 Empire of the Sun E2 5c *  
12 Thule Groove VS 4c ** 1
13 Black Magic E2 5c  
14 I See Foula E3 6a *  
15 Bootie HS  
16 The Tango o' the Isles. E4 6a *  
17 The Ecstasy of Gold. E1 5b  
  North Geo
19 Boo Boo HVS 5a  
20 Per Mare Per Terram HVS 5a  
21 Yogi Braer VS 4c  
22 Stridey Legs Crack E2 5c **  
23 Sweetness & Light HVS 5a **  
24 Da Njugle E2 5b **  
25 Oblique Rays of the Sun VS 4c *  
26 Black-eyed Biddy VS 4c *  
27 Fulmarification E1 5b **  
28 Tystie Crack E2 5c ***  
29 Puissance VS 4c *  
30 Celandine HVS 5b *  
31 JLS S  
32 Spelimenninhir finish. VS 4b *  
33 Spelimenninhir VS 4b *  
  Obvious Buttress
35 Circling Sharks. VS 4c *  
  Cavity Walls
37 Incisor Information S  
38 Pain S  
39 Ache. S  
40 Molar Case S  
41 Abcess HS 4a  
42 Capped Root VS 4c **  
43 All Gum and no Teeth. HS 4b  
44 Cavity Crack E3 5c *  
45 Amalgam VS 4c  
  Not so Obvious Buttress.
47 Local Anaesthetic E2 5b ***  
  South Geo
49 Nibon Crack HVS 5b  
50 Cattle Rustler E1 5b *  
51 Atlantic Hits E2 5c  
52 Quiet City HVS 4c *  
53 Hermless VS 4b * 1
54 Mincing with Cherlie HVS 5a  
  Completely Unknown Buttress
56 Slice of Life HVS 4c  

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