UKC

Climbs 328
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 410m a.s.l
Faces SW

Winter sunset, The Roaches © Adam Long

Crag features

Magnificent imposing buttresses of superb natural grit up to 30m high. Shaded in summer, but slow to dry and green early in the year. 'Must do' routes include the astounding Valkrie (VS 4c), the delectable Elegy (E2 5c) and the immaculate The Swan (E3 5c). Slab and crystal lovers will be sated with a unique collection of desperate routes, the hardest of which is Doug (E8 6c). Some of the best bouldering on grit can be found both in the woods and on the spring boulders

Route grades and numbers (especially bouldering) are based on BMC The Staffordshire Gritstone Guide (2003)

Approach notes

Very limited parking below the crag. There is a park and ride from Tittesworth Reservoir, off the A53 Buxton to Leek road (SK 993601), weekends only, May to September. Obvious track leads to the Lower Tier. Upper Tier is above (!), The Skyline the northward (left) continuation of the Upper Tier.

Guidebooks

Peak Bouldering

The Peak Bouldering Rockfax is a massive book covering a huge area including all the main bouldering venues of the Peak District. It includes many more low-grade problems than have ever been documented before including 17 circuits with problems at V0+ 5a and under, and a further 21 circuits with problems at V2 5c and below.
More info

Western Grit

The 2009 edition of the award-winning guidebook to Staffordshire, Kinder, Bleaklow, Chew, Lancashire and Cheshire areas covered with photo-topos and descriptions.
More info
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Spring Boulders
  Bog Boulder
3 Bog Arête Left f2+ * 95
4 Bog Arête Right f6B ** 19
5 Pebbles and Seam f6A ** 44
6 Bog Monster f5+ * 82
7 Bog Standard f5+ * 33
8 Blind Flake VB 58
9 Bog Slab f4 * 93
10 Poxy f2+ * 131
11 The Swinger f4+ 75
12 Runnel Arête f2+ * 71
13 Undercut Wall f4+ 69
14 Boo Meringue
-
V1 5b 18
  Spring Boulder
16 Spring Slab f7A ** 131
17 C3PO f7A+ ** 89
18 Boba Fett f7B+ *** 3
19 Bobarete f7A ** 9
20 Easy Wall VB 83
21 Sprung f6A ** 87
22 Sprat f4+ 112
23 Sprung - Standing version V1 5b 17
24 Sprite f4+ 84
  Little Boulder
26 Spring Roll Left f5+ * 27
27 Spring Roll f4+ * 81
28 Slabby Seam f3 106
29 Blunt Arête f4 * 101
  Gentle Slab Boulder
31 Low Slopes V1 5b 15
32 The Nose (Gentle Slab) f5 35
33 Wavy Slab f4+ * 64
34 Centre Slab f4+ * 49
35 Gentle Slab f3+ * 85
36 Slab to Summit f4+ 60
  The Ramp Boulder
38 The Ramp (Melt) f5+ ** 19
39 Ramphole of the Roaches f5+ * 36
40 Flakes (Spring) f5 * 25
41 Pod 'n' Up f5+ 11
42 Mid Pod f5 10
  Little Summit
44 Summit Arête f3+ 71
45 Mantel V0- 4b 36
46 A Nother Mantel V0+ 5a 29
  Shothole Boulder
48 Violence f6A ** 36
49 Impotence f6A * 28
50 Lout f6A * 24
51 The Claw V2 5c * 12
52 Seconds Out f5 ** 34
53 The Grind f7A ** 5
54 Skinned Rabbit f6B ** 9
55 Skinned Rabbit Sit-Start
-
V6 * 8
56 Sin Left f6C+ ** 4
57 Sin (Arête on Right) f6C ** 6
58 Mr Nice f6B+ * 5
59 Mr Left f6C ** 1
60 Arete on Left (Shothole) f6B 6
61 Shothole Flakes f4+ * 21
  The Fly Boulder
63 The Fly f6B ** 11
64 The Lurch f6B 15
65 Heave Ho f6A 1
66 Scoop and Ramp
-
V0- 5a 21
67 Easy Slab
-
V0- 4b 23
  Lower Tier Boulders
  Dougless Boulder
70 Particle Exchange f7A *  
71 Doug-less f6B * 5
72 The Rumour f7A+ ** 1
73 Sketchy Rib f5+ * 7
74 Slabby Arête f3+ * 22
75 Chips and Flake
-
f6A 12
76 Green Rib
-
V0 4b 6
77 Scratchy Scoop
-
V3 6a 3
78 Ned Zeppelin f8A **  
  Boulder Behind
80 Lip Traverse V5 6b 3
81 Mantel V4 6b 7
  Pine Tree Slab
83 Boss Slab f4+ * 472
84 Pine Slab f5+ ** 541
85 Pine Crack f3 * 708
86 Squeezy Slab f5 ** 420
87 Up Chips f3 ** 652
88 Arch f4+ * 371
89 Pine Arête f4 * 334
90 Pine Arête Right f4 * 247
91 Green Slab
-
V3 6a 130
92 Pine Martin f4+ ** 437
  Greener Boulder
94 Easy Rib V0 4b 68
95 The Green Greenie V1 5c 147
96 The Greener Traverse f6B *** 438
97 Greener Reverse V1 5+ 82
98 Greener Mantel f6A * 175
99 Greener Mantel Sit-Start
-
V4 51
100 Greenerate f6B * 108
  Twin Flakes
102 Henious Mantel
-
V7 6c 19
103 Heinous Mantel f6C 19
104 Theo All The Way f7A 4
105 The Uppercut (With Arête)
-
V3 143
106 The Uppercut f6A ** 82
107 The Undercutter f5+ ** 270
108 The Grasper f4+ 267
109 Green Mantel f4 58
  The Big Block
111 Black Nook Slab f4 280
112 Black Nook Arête f4 * 232
113 Pockets Arête f5 * 157
114 Three Pocket Slab f6A *** 1166
115 Parental Duties f7B * 12
116 Heathery Ledge
-
V2 5c 26
117 Big Block Gully f3 228
118 Sketchy Wall f5 * 19
119 Bow Crack
-
V3 5c 73
120 Flake Arête f4 ** 205
Climb name Grade
121 Big Block Arête f4+ 160
122 The Undercut Traverse f6B * 36
123 Stretch and Mantel f6C *** 319
124 Undercut Dyno f7B ** 112
125 Stretch Left f6B * 126
126 Classic Arête f4 ** 715
  Blister Slab
128 Left Slab (Blister) f4 * 599
129 Slab 2 f3 * 470
130 Blister's Sister f4+ * 612
131 Blister Slab f4+ ** 594
132 Back Slab Right f3+ * 536
  Far Left Lower Tier
134 Malted Milk f6C ** 2
135 Boobidge f6A 1
136 Double D V5 *  
137 Drop Bears HVS 5b 2
138 Slabotomy f7C *** 3
139 Beware Coconuts VS 4b 1
140 Burrito Deluxe E3 5c  
141 National Hero
-
E2 5c 1
  Ascent of Man
143 Snap, Crackle and Andy Popp E1 5c 1
144 Apache Dawn f7A+ * 2
145 Catastrophe Internationale f7A *** 8
146 Slippery Jim HVS 5a * 124
147 Bareback Rider f6B+ * 25
148 K.P. Nuts E7 7a * 1
149 Ascent of Man E3 6a *** 145
150 Ascent of Man Start f6A+ * 111
151 Ascent of Woman E3 6a * 11
152 Ascent of Woman Start f6B+ * 20
153 Traverse of Man f6A * 91
154 Bow Crack f5+ * 22
155 Days of Future Passed E3 6b * 4
  Teck Crack Buttress
157 The Aspirant E3 5c 10
158 Ackit HVS 5b ** 183
159 Just For Today E6 7a 1
160 Barriers in Time E6 6b *** 23
161 Sunday at Chapel E6 6c ** 1
162 Ant Lives f7A * 16
163 Inertia Reel f7A+ *** 12
164 Turbo
-
V11 7a * 2
165 Thud
-
f7B 6c * 16
166 Teck Crack Direct f6C ** 66
167 Teck Crack Super Direct f7B+ * 2
168 The Dignity of Labour f7A ** 11
169 A Modest Proposal f7A 8
170 Teck Crack E1 5c ** 80
171 Joe's Hanging Crack E3 6a * 6
172 Skydivin' V4 6b * 1
173 Inertia Reel Traverse f8A+ *** 2
174 Lightning Crack HVS 5b * 46
175 Mushin' f7C+ *** 10
176 Boozy Traverse f6C+ 7
177 Pindels Numb E4 6b * 3
178 Pindles Numb Start f6C *  
179 Crystal Grazer E5 6a ** 5
180 Heredity E6 6c 1
181 A Fist Full of Crystals E6 6b *** 8
182 Doug E8 6c ** 3
183 Fred's Cafe VS 5a 18
  Yong Buttress
185 Yong Arête S 3c * 156
186 Poisonous Python HVS 5b * 46
187 Yong HVD 4a ** 1313
188 Something Better Change E2 5b * 322
189 Wisecrack VS 4b * 58
190 Hypothesis HVS 5b ** 62
191 Destination Earth E7 6b ** 2
192 Crack on the Stairs * HVD 4b 1
  Bengal Buttress
194 Cannonball Crack S 4b * 221
195 Graffiti E1 5b * 5
196 Dorothy's Dilemma E1 5a ** 102
197 Bengal Buttress HVS 4c ** 167
198 Schoolies E3 5c * 11
199 Chain Reaction E3 6a * 1
200 Steps
-
E5 6b  
  Raven Rock
202 Crack of Gloom E1 5b ** 58
203 Raven Rock Gully Left-hand VS 4b * 220
204 Raven Rock Gully D ** 513
205 Swinger VS 4c 32
206 Sidewinder E5 6a  
207 Via Dolorosa VS 4c *** 1084
208 Via Dolorosa Variations S 4a ** 35
209 Valkyrie Direct HVS 5b ** 145
210 Matinee HVS 5b ** 220
211 The Gutter f7A+ * 92
212 Valkyrie VS 4c *** 2814
213 Valkyrie corner HS 4b 214
214 Valkyrie Corner Flake Variant HS 4c * 11
215 Northern Comfort E6 6c ** 1
216 Licence to Kill E5 6b *** 4
217 Licence to Run E4 6a * 20
218 Licence to Lust E4 6a *  
  The Swan Wall
220 Eugene's Axe E2 5c * 46
221 Pebbledash HVS 5a ** 649
222 Secrets of Dance E4 6a * 5
223 Against the Grain E6 7a *** 2
224 Thing on a Spring E6 7a *** 3
225 Up the Swanee E4 5c ** 19
226 The Swan E3 5c *** 112
227 Swan Bank E4 5c * 4
228 The Mincer HVS 5b *** 607
  Smear Test Slab
230 Smear Test E3 6a ** 235
231 Pincer VS 5a * 539
232 Cold Blood E6 6b 1
233 Kicking Bird E4 6a ** 25
234 Bloodstone E5 6b ** 6
235 Bloodspeed E6 6b ** 1
236 Guano Gully S 4b 104
237 Mousey's Mistake E2 5b 4
  Elegy Slab
239 A Little Peculiar E6 7b ** 1
240 Elegy E2 5c *** 588
Climb name Grade
241 Clive Coolhead E5 6b ** 18
242 The Bulger VS 4c * 377
243 Dirty Wee Rouge E3 6a  
244 Fledgling's Climb HS 4a * 747
245 Wing Wing HS 4a 55
246 Little Chimney M 294
247 Battery Crack VS 4b 52
248 Lucas Chimney S 4a * 130
  Kestrel Buttress
250 Goldcrest E7 6c ***  
251 Hawkwing E1 5b *** 480
252 Carrion E3 5c * 12
253 Kestrel Crack VS 4b ** 630
254 Headless Horseman E1 5b 17
255 Logical Progression E7 6c ** 1
256 Sleepy Hollow E10 7a ***  
257 Flimney S 4a 181
258 Amaranth E4 5c  
259 Death Knell E4 5c *** 47
260 Pooh's Connection E2 6a 1
261 Rhodren HVS 5b * 302
262 Flake Chimney D * 295
  Chalkstorm Area
264 Straight Crack HS 4a 153
265 Punch E3 6b * 4
266 Choka E1 5c * 79
267 Circuit Breaker E3 6a * 2
268 Hunky Dory E3 6a *** 98
269 Prow Corner VD * 2019
270 Corner Cracks HVD 4a * 1380
271 Micro-Storm E1 5c 27
272 Chalkstorm E3 5c ** 805
273 Prow Cracks VD ** 2126
274 Prow Cracks Variations HVD * 724
275 Commander Energy E2 5c *** 723
276 Sumo Cellulite E4 6a * 1
  Piece of Mind Slab
278 Rocking Stone Gully HVD 791
279 Captain Lethargy HVD 1383
280 Sifta's Quid HS 4b * 951
281 Sifta's Quid Inside Route S 3a 368
282 Obsession Fatale E8 6c *** 62
283 Piece of Mind E6 6b *** 84
284 The Emergency Exit E6 6b 2
285 Final Destination E8 6c ** 1
286 Thin Air E5 6a *** 87
287 The Roaches Ridge D 3a * 71
288 The Super Girdle E4 6a ***  
  Piece of Mind Boulders
290 Cottage Arête f5+ * 18
291 Cottage Arête Right
-
V1 8
292 The Crystal Maze V9 2
293 Open Bum Cleft f6A * 25
294 Sketchy Arête f5+ 3
295 Adventurous Arête f6A 3
296 The Jams f5+ ** 5
297 Hanging Arête f5 1
298 The Teacup f5 * 15
299 Grewsome f6B * 24
300 Twisted Crack f6B * 28
301 Left Off V3 5c 7
302 Off Work f5+ * 33
303 Flake and Arête f5+ * 26
304 Sticky Wall V5 6b 2
305 Wildy's Arête f6A ** 142
306 Wildy's Arête Sit-Start
-
V5 69
307 Wildy's Right f6A ** 163
308 Slab and Crack f3+ ** 168
309 Slab and Crack - Left Finish V1 5b 43
310 Jobby f3+ * 98
311 Micky f3 * 47
312 Little Arête V0- 18
313 Lazy Wall V0- 4b 22
314 Scab f5+ 7
315 Buster f6B 2
316 Sail Slab f2+ * 136
317 Mantel and Pocket f3 * 145
318 Mantle and Pocket Sit-Start
-
V2 9
319 Sail Arête f3 * 133
320 Peer Pressure V0 4c 13
321 Sail Rib f4+ * 135
322 Tittersworth Rib f5+ * 83
323 Tittersworth Rib Sit-Start
-
V4 19
324 Weird Little 5c
-
V2 6a 14
325 Chips Ahoy f5 * 72
326 Left and Up
-
V0- 4b 22
327 The Stretch
-
V3 6a 3
328 Ramp f4+ 15
329 The Potty f4 25
330 Croissant Groove f5+ 12
331 Dropsy f4+ * 1
332 The Blob f5 2
333 Crinkles Wall f6C+ * 1
334 Annie's Egg f6C+ * 1
335 Radical Runnel
-
V2 5c 1
336 Little Mantel V0 5a 2
337 Flake and Groove V0- 4a 7
338 Two Bumps * V6 1
  Unknown Problems and Routes
340 Boxing Gloves and Roller Skates VB * 5
341 Prow Corner Twin Cracks HVD 4a * 121
342 Rock Room Slab f5 * 2
343 The Staffordshire Nose ED1 *** 6
344 Loose Flakes V0- 1
345 Dirty Crack VB 2
346 The Flake
-
V0 6
347 Flake Crack
-
V0 4 2
348 P.17 f4 2
349 P.15 f3+ 2
350 P.18 f3+ 1
351 Blister slab stay low traverse V2 5b 3
352 Something Better Change RH E2 5b 2
353 Block and Crack f2+ 35
354 The Fly Low Start V7 6c *  
355 Turbo Extension * f8A **  
356 Greener Traverse - Turner's Extension * V7  
357 The Staffordshire Man * V5+ *** 1
358 Slabotomy Lefthand * f7A+ **  
359 Valhalla * f7B ** 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Col Allott