Climbs 333
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 410m a.s.l
Faces SW

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Winter sunset, The Roaches © Adam Long

Crag features

Magnificent imposing buttresses of superb natural grit up to 30m high. Shaded in summer, but slow to dry and green early in the year. 'Must do' routes include the astounding Valkrie (VS 4c), the delectable Elegy (E2 5c) and the immaculate The Swan (E3 5c). Slab and crystal lovers will be sated with a unique collection of desperate routes, the hardest of which is Doug (E8 6c). Some of the best bouldering on grit can be found both in the woods and on the spring boulders

Route grades and numbers (especially bouldering) are based on BMC The Staffordshire Gritstone Guide (2003)

Approach notes

Very limited parking below the crag. There is a park and ride from Tittesworth Reservoir, off the A53 Buxton to Leek road (SK 993601), weekends only, May to September. Obvious track leads to the Lower Tier. Upper Tier is above (!), The Skyline the northward (left) continuation of the Upper Tier.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

Peak Bouldering

The Peak Bouldering Rockfax is a massive book covering a huge area including all the main bouldering venues of the Peak District. It includes many more low-grade problems than have ever been documented before including 17 circuits with problems at V0+ 5a and under, and a further 21 circuits with problems at V2 5c and below.
More info

Western Grit

The 2009 edition of the award-winning guidebook to Staffordshire, Kinder, Bleaklow, Chew, Lancashire and Cheshire areas covered with photo-topos and descriptions.
More info
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Spring Boulders
  Bog Boulder
3 Bog Arête Left f2+ * 122
4 Bog Arête Right f6B ** 22
5 Pebbles and Seam f6A ** 48
6 Bog Monster f5+ * 99
7 Bog Standard f5+ * 48
8 Blind Flake VB 63
9 Bog Slab f4 * 111
10 Poxy f2+ * 148
11 The Swinger f4+ 88
12 Runnel Arête f2+ * 87
13 Undercut Wall f4+ 78
14 Boo Meringue
-
V1 5b 20
  Spring Boulder
16 Spring Slab f7A ** 145
17 C3PO f7A+ ** 95
18 Boba Fett f7B+ *** 4
19 Bobarete f7A ** 9
20 Easy Wall VB 88
21 Sprung f6A ** 108
22 Sprat f4+ 134
23 Sprung - Standing version V1 5b 21
24 Sprite f4+ 94
  Little Boulder
26 Spring Roll Left f5+ * 30
27 Spring Roll f4+ * 86
28 Slabby Seam f3 120
29 Blunt Arête f4 * 116
  Gentle Slab Boulder
31 Low Slopes V1 5b 16
32 The Nose (Gentle Slab) f5 39
33 Wavy Slab f4+ * 72
34 Centre Slab f4+ * 51
35 Gentle Slab f3+ * 95
36 Slab to Summit f4+ 63
  The Ramp Boulder
38 The Ramp (Melt) f5+ ** 36
39 Ramphole of the Roaches f5+ * 48
40 Flakes (Spring) f5 * 43
41 Pod 'n' Up f5+ 24
42 Mid Pod f5 18
  Little Summit
44 Summit Arête f3+ 80
45 Mantel V0- 4b 39
46 A Nother Mantel V0+ 5a 30
  Shothole Boulder
48 Violence f6A ** 39
49 Impotence f6A * 32
50 Lout f6A * 26
51 The Claw V2 5c * 12
52 Seconds Out f5 ** 39
53 The Grind f7A ** 6
54 Skinned Rabbit f6B ** 12
55 Skinned Rabbit Sit-Start
-
V6 * 9
56 Sin Left f6C+ ** 5
57 Sin (Arête on Right) f6C ** 10
58 Mr Nice f6B+ * 5
59 Mr Left f6C ** 1
60 Arete on Left (Shothole) f6B 7
61 Shothole Flakes f4+ * 24
  The Fly Boulder
63 The Fly f6B ** 11
64 The Lurch f6B 15
65 Heave Ho f6A 1
66 Scoop and Ramp
-
V0- 5a 22
67 Easy Slab
-
V0- 4b 25
  Lower Tier Boulders
69 Aniseed snakes * f7B * 1
  Dougless Boulder
71 Particle Exchange f7A *  
72 Doug-less f6B * 5
73 The Rumour f7A+ ** 1
74 Sketchy Rib f5+ * 8
75 Slabby Arête f3+ * 25
76 Chips and Flake
-
f6A 13
77 Green Rib
-
V0 4b 7
78 Scratchy Scoop
-
V3 6a 3
79 Ned Zeppelin f8A **  
  Boulder Behind
81 Lip Traverse V5 6b 3
82 Mantel V4 6b 7
  Pine Tree Slab
84 Boss Slab f4+ * 597
85 Pine Slab f5+ ** 658
86 Pine Crack f3 * 856
87 Squeezy Slab f5 ** 511
88 Up Chips f3 ** 782
89 Arch f4+ * 461
90 Pine Arête f4 * 405
91 Pine Arête Right f4 * 307
92 Green Slab
-
V3 6a 146
93 Pine Martin f4+ ** 523
  Greener Boulder
95 Easy Rib V0 4b 73
96 The Green Greenie V1 5c 173
97 The Greener Traverse f6B *** 519
98 Greener Reverse V1 5+ 116
99 Greener Mantel f6A * 238
100 Greener Mantel Sit-Start
-
V4 61
101 Greenerate f6B * 143
  Twin Flakes
103 Henious Mantel
-
V7 6c 20
104 Heinous Mantel f6C 32
105 Theo All The Way f7A 5
106 The Uppercut (With Arête)
-
V3 167
107 The Uppercut f6A ** 120
108 The Undercutter f5+ ** 342
109 The Grasper f4+ 330
110 Green Mantel f4 72
  The Big Block
112 Black Nook Slab f4 309
113 Black Nook Arête f4 * 260
114 Pockets Arête f5 * 175
115 Three Pocket Slab f6A *** 1309
116 Parental Duties f7B * 16
117 Heathery Ledge
-
V2 5c 28
118 Big Block Gully f3 268
119 Sketchy Wall f5 * 28
120 Bow Crack
-
V3 5c 95
121 Flake Arête f4 ** 247
122 Big Block Arête f4+ 185
Climb name Grade
123 The Undercut Traverse f6B * 41
124 Stretch and Mantel f6C *** 346
125 Undercut Dyno f7B ** 127
126 Stretch Left f6B * 144
127 Classic Arête f4 ** 814
  Blister Slab
129 Left Slab (Blister) f4 * 731
130 Slab 2 f3 * 596
131 Blister's Sister f4+ * 744
132 Blister Slab f4+ ** 724
133 Back Slab Right f3+ * 643
134 Blisters traverse of the arêtes * f6A ** 7
  Far Left Lower Tier
136 Malted Milk f6C ** 2
137 Boobidge f6A 1
138 Double D V5 *  
139 Drop Bears HVS 5b 2
140 Slabotomy f7C *** 3
141 Beware Coconuts VS 4b 1
142 Burrito Deluxe E3 5c  
143 National Hero
-
E2 5c 1
  Ascent of Man
145 Snap, Crackle and Andy Popp E1 5c 1
146 Apache Dawn f7A+ * 2
147 Catastrophe Internationale f7A *** 8
148 Slippery Jim HVS 5a * 143
149 Bareback Rider f6B+ * 25
150 K.P. Nuts E7 7a * 1
151 Ascent of Man E3 6a *** 152
152 Ascent of Man Start f6A+ * 141
153 Ascent of Woman E3 6a * 11
154 Ascent of Woman Start f6B+ * 35
155 Traverse of Man f6A * 115
156 Bow Crack f5+ * 24
157 Days of Future Passed E3 6b * 4
  Teck Crack Buttress
159 The Aspirant E3 5c 10
160 Ackit HVS 5b ** 202
161 Just For Today E6 7a 1
162 Barriers in Time E6 6b *** 28
163 Sunday at Chapel E6 6c ** 1
164 Ant Lives f7A * 29
165 Inertia Reel f7A+ *** 18
166 Turbo
-
V11 7a * 2
167 Thud
-
f7B 6c * 16
168 Teck Crack Direct f6C ** 80
169 Teck Crack Super Direct f7B+ * 2
170 The Dignity of Labour f7A ** 12
171 A Modest Proposal f7A 9
172 Teck Crack E1 5c ** 89
173 Joe's Hanging Crack E3 6a * 6
174 Skydivin' V4 6b * 1
175 Inertia Reel Traverse f8A+ *** 4
176 Lightning Crack HVS 5b * 51
177 Mushin' f7C+ *** 12
178 Boozy Traverse f6C+ 9
179 Pindels Numb E4 6b * 3
180 Pindles Numb Start f6C *  
181 Crystal Grazer E5 6a ** 5
182 Heredity E6 6c 1
183 A Fist Full of Crystals E6 6b *** 9
184 Doug E8 6c ** 3
185 Fred's Cafe VS 5a 17
  Yong Buttress
187 Yong Arête S 3c * 167
188 Poisonous Python HVS 5b * 50
189 Yong HVD 4a ** 1454
190 Something Better Change E2 5b * 335
191 Wisecrack VS 4b * 64
192 Hypothesis HVS 5b ** 70
193 Destination Earth E7 6b ** 2
194 Crack on the Stairs * HVD 4b 2
  Bengal Buttress
196 Cannonball Crack S 4b * 224
197 Graffiti E1 5b * 5
198 Dorothy's Dilemma E1 5a ** 112
199 Bengal Buttress HVS 4c ** 185
200 Schoolies E3 5c * 11
201 Chain Reaction E3 6a * 1
202 Steps
-
E5 6b  
  Raven Rock
204 Crack of Gloom E1 5b ** 66
205 Raven Rock Gully Left-hand VS 4b * 246
206 Raven Rock Gully D ** 558
207 Swinger VS 4c 35
208 Sidewinder E5 6a  
209 Via Dolorosa VS 4c *** 1244
210 Via Dolorosa Variations S 4a ** 37
211 Valkyrie Direct HVS 5b ** 171
212 Matinee HVS 5b ** 239
213 The Gutter f7A+ * 101
214 Valkyrie VS 4c *** 2538
215 Valkyrie corner HS 4b 241
216 Valkyrie Corner Flake Variant HS 4c * 11
217 Northern Comfort E6 6c ** 1
218 Licence to Kill E5 6b *** 4
219 Licence to Run E4 6a * 21
220 Licence to Lust E4 6a *  
  The Swan Wall
222 Eugene's Axe E2 5c * 50
223 Pebbledash HVS 5a ** 752
224 Secrets of Dance E4 6a * 5
225 Against the Grain E6 7a *** 2
226 Thing on a Spring E6 7a *** 3
227 Up the Swanee E4 5c ** 23
228 The Swan E3 5c *** 127
229 Swan Bank E4 5c * 4
230 The Mincer HVS 5b *** 575
  Smear Test Slab
232 Smear Test E3 6a ** 186
233 Pincer VS 5a * 606
234 Cold Blood E6 6b 2
235 Kicking Bird E4 6a ** 27
236 Bloodstone E5 6b ** 7
237 Bloodspeed E6 6b ** 1
238 Guano Gully S 4b 114
239 Mousey's Mistake E2 5b 7
240 Blood, Sweat and Smears * E4 6a ** 1
  Elegy Slab
242 A Little Peculiar E6 7b ** 1
243 Elegy E2 5c *** 470
244 Clive Coolhead E5 6b ** 23
Climb name Grade
245 The Bulger VS 4c * 420
246 Dirty Wee Rouge E3 6a  
247 Fledgling's Climb HS 4a * 810
248 Wing Wing HS 4a 62
249 Little Chimney M 322
250 Battery Crack VS 4b 62
251 Lucas Chimney S 4a * 150
  Kestrel Buttress
253 Goldcrest E7 6c ***  
254 Hawkwing E1 5b *** 560
255 Carrion E3 5c * 13
256 Kestrel Crack VS 4b ** 712
257 Headless Horseman E1 5b 19
258 Logical Progression E7 6c ** 1
259 Sleepy Hollow E10 7a ***  
260 Flimney S 4a 221
261 Amaranth E4 5c  
262 Death Knell E4 5c *** 50
263 Pooh's Connection E2 6a 1
264 Rhodren HVS 5b * 350
265 Flake Chimney D * 343
  Chalkstorm Area
267 Straight Crack HS 4a 182
268 Punch E3 6b * 4
269 Choka E1 5c * 94
270 Circuit Breaker E3 6a * 3
271 Hunky Dory E3 6a *** 105
272 Prow Corner VD * 2170
273 Corner Cracks HVD 4a * 1496
274 Micro-Storm E1 5c 26
275 Chalkstorm E3 5c ** 878
276 Prow Cracks VD ** 2326
277 Prow Cracks Variations HVD * 781
278 Commander Energy E2 5c *** 798
279 Sumo Cellulite E4 6a * 1
  Piece of Mind Slab
281 Rocking Stone Gully HVD 843
282 Captain Lethargy HVD 1518
283 Sifta's Quid HS 4b * 1026
284 Sifta's Quid Inside Route S 3a 433
285 Obsession Fatale E8 6c *** 69
286 Piece of Mind E6 6b *** 86
287 The Emergency Exit E6 6b 2
288 Final Destination E8 6c ** 1
289 Thin Air E5 6a *** 93
290 The Roaches Ridge D 3a * 77
291 The Super Girdle E4 6a ***  
  Piece of Mind Boulders
293 Cottage Arête f5+ * 19
294 Cottage Arête Right
-
V1 9
295 The Crystal Maze V9 2
296 Open Bum Cleft f6A * 25
297 Sketchy Arête f5+ 3
298 Adventurous Arête f6A 3
299 The Jams f5+ ** 6
300 Hanging Arête f5 1
301 The Teacup f5 * 17
302 Grewsome f6B * 38
303 Twisted Crack f6B * 34
304 Left Off V3 5c 8
305 Off Work f5+ * 39
306 Flake and Arête f5+ * 28
307 Sticky Wall V5 6b 2
308 Wildy's Arête f6A ** 173
309 Wildy's Arête Sit-Start
-
V5 86
310 Wildy's Right f6A ** 195
311 Slab and Crack f3+ ** 191
312 Slab and Crack - Left Finish V1 5b 47
313 Jobby f3+ * 120
314 Micky f3 * 54
315 Little Arête V0- 18
316 Lazy Wall V0- 4b 22
317 Scab f5+ 9
318 Buster f6B 2
319 Sail Slab f2+ * 152
320 Mantel and Pocket f3 * 164
321 Mantle and Pocket Sit-Start
-
V2 10
322 Sail Arête f3 * 154
323 Peer Pressure V0 4c 18
324 Sail Rib f4+ * 154
325 Tittersworth Rib f5+ * 94
326 Tittersworth Rib Sit-Start
-
V4 21
327 Weird Little 5c
-
V2 6a 16
328 Chips Ahoy f5 * 85
329 Left and Up
-
V0- 4b 22
330 The Stretch
-
V3 6a 3
331 Ramp f4+ 16
332 The Potty f4 27
333 Croissant Groove f5+ 13
334 Dropsy f4+ * 1
335 The Blob f5 2
336 Crinkles Wall f6C+ * 1
337 Annie's Egg f6C+ * 1
338 Radical Runnel
-
V2 5c 1
339 Little Mantel V0 5a 2
340 Flake and Groove V0- 4a 7
341 Two Bumps * V6 1
  Unknown Problems and Routes
343 Boxing Gloves and Roller Skates VB * 6
344 Prow Corner Twin Cracks HVD 4a * 150
345 Rock Room Slab f5 * 2
346 The Staffordshire Nose ED1 *** 6
347 Loose Flakes V0- 1
348 Dirty Crack VB 3
349 The Flake
-
V0 9
350 Flake Crack
-
V0 4 3
351 P.17 f4 2
352 P.15 f3+ 2
353 P.18 f3+ 1
354 Blister slab stay low traverse V2 5b 6
355 Something Better Change RH E2 5b 3
356 Block and Crack f2+ 50
357 The Fly Low Start V7 6c *  
358 Turbo Extension * f8A **  
359 Greener Traverse - Turner's Extension * V7  
360 The Staffordshire Man * V5+ *** 1
361 Slabotomy Lefthand * f7A+ **  
362 Valhalla * f7B ** 2
363 Finger Anatomy * f7A ** 1
364 Circumcision * V4+ * 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Col Allott