Climbs 325
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 402m a.s.l
Faces SW

View Stats

Winter sunset, The Roaches © Adam Long

Crag features

Magnificent imposing buttresses of superb natural grit up to 30m high. Shaded in summer, but slow to dry and green early in the year. 'Must do' routes include the astounding Valkrie (VS 4c), the delectable Elegy (E2 5c) and the immaculate The Swan (E3 5c). Slab and crystal lovers will be sated with a unique collection of desperate routes, the hardest of which is Doug (E8 6c). Some of the best bouldering on grit can be found both in the woods and on the spring boulders

The area faces southwest receiving the sun from mid-morning. It is often beautiful in late-afternoon sunshine. It catches the wind and dries quickly after rain but offers little shelter from bad weather. Most of the rock is clean although some north-facing sections can be green. The area around the Spring Boulders is usually very boggy in the winter.

Approach notes

The Roaches is situated to the east of the A53 between Buxton and Leek. At busy times, it is necessary to park at Upper Hulme, on the A53, from where the local council provides a bus link to the crag. At less busy times, parking is available on the road below the crag but please park considerately. From here, a well-worn path leads to the two main tiers past the conspicuous Rockhall Cottage (the Whillans Memorial BMC hut).

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Android and iOS devices.


Guidebooks

Peak Bouldering

The Peak Bouldering Rockfax is a massive book covering a huge area including all the main bouldering venues of the Peak District. It includes many more low-grade problems than have ever been documented before including 17 circuits with problems at V0+ 5a and under, and a further 21 circuits with problems at V2 5c and below.
More info

Western Grit

The 2009 edition of the award-winning guidebook to Staffordshire, Kinder, Bleaklow, Chew, Lancashire and Cheshire areas covered with photo-topos and descriptions.
More info
There are no comments from visitors to this crag.
Login as Existing User to add your comments

Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Spring Boulders
  Bog Boulder
3 Bog Arête Left f2+ * 129
4 Bog Arête Right f6B ** 24
5 Pebbles and Seam f6A ** 49
6 Bog Monster f5+ * 101
7 Bog Standard f5+ * 53
8 Blind Flake
-
VB 64
9 Bog Slab f4 * 120
10 Poxy f2+ * 156
11 The Swinger f4+ 94
12 Runnel Arête f2+ * 93
13 Undercut Wall f4+ 79
14 Boo Meringue
-
V1 20
  Spring Boulder
16 Boba's Traverse V7  
17 Spring Slab f7A ** 150
18 C3PO f7A+ ** 100
19 Boba Fett f7B+ *** 4
20 Bobarête f7A ** 9
21 Easy Wall
-
VB 89
22 Sprung Stand Start V1 24
23 Sprung f6A ** 121
24 Sprat f4+ 145
25 Sprite f4+ 97
  Little Boulder
27 Spring Roll Left f5+ * 30
28 Spring Roll f4+ * 87
29 Slabby Seam f3 123
30 Blunt Arête f4 * 120
  Gentle Slab Boulder
32 The Nose f5 54
33 Wavy Slab f4+ * 77
34 Centre Slab f4+ * 52
35 Gentle Slab f3+ * 103
  The Ramp Boulder
37 The Ramp f5+ ** 39
38 Ramphole of the Roaches f5+ * 51
39 Flakes f5 * 45
40 Pod 'n' Up f5+ 25
41 Mid Pod f5 19
  Little Summit
43 Summit Arête f3+ 82
44 Slab to Summit f4+ 65
45 Mantel
-
V0- 45
46 A Nother Mantel
-
V0+ 30
  Shothole Boulder
48 Violence f6A ** 39
49 Impotence f6A * 32
50 Lout f6A * 26
51 The Claw V2 * 12
52 Seconds Out f5 ** 40
53 The Grind f7A ** 6
54 Skinned Rabbit f6B ** 11
55 Skinned Rabbit Sit-start
-
V6 * 9
56 Sin Left f6C+ ** 6
57 Sin f6C ** 12
58 Mr Nice f6B+ * 5
59 Mr Left f6C ** 1
60 Arête on Left f6B 8
61 Shothole Flakes f4+ * 27
  The Fly Boulder
63 The Fly f6B ** 11
64 The Fly Low Start V7 *  
65 The Lurch f6B 15
66 Heave Ho f6A 1
67 Scoop and Ramp
-
V0- 22
68 Easy Slab
-
V0- 25
  Lower Tier Boulders
  Dougless Boulder
71 Particle Exchange f7A *  
72 Dougless f6B * 5
73 The Rumour f7A+ ** 1
74 Sketchy Rib f5+ * 9
75 Slabby Arête f3+ * 25
76 Chips and Flake
-
f6A 13
77 Green Rib
-
V0 7
78 Scratchy Scoop
-
V3 3
79 Ned Zeppelin f8A **  
  Green Ramp Boulder
81 Boxing Gloves and Roller Skates VB * 8
  Pine Tree Slab
83 Boss Slab f4+ * 647
84 Pine Slab f5+ ** 704
85 Pine Crack f3 * 935
86 Squeezy Slab f5 ** 553
87 Up Chips f3 ** 849
88 Arch f4+ * 495
89 Pine Arête f4 * 440
90 Pine Arête Right f4 * 332
91 Green Slab
-
V3+ 150
92 Pine Martin f4+ ** 560
  Greener Boulder
94 Easy Rib V0 74
95 The Green Greenie V1 176
96 The Greener Traverse f6B *** 556
97 Greener Traverse - Turner's Extension V7  
98 Greener Reverse V2 125
99 Greener Mantel f6A * 257
100 Greener Mantel Sit-start
-
V4 65
101 Greenerête f6B * 150
  Twin Flakes
103 Heinous Mantel f6C 59
104 Theo All The Way f7A 7
105 The Uppercut f6A ** 151
106 The Uppercut Eliminate V4 174
107 The Undercutter f5+ ** 375
108 The Grasper f4+ 361
109 Green Mantel f4 75
  The Big Block
111 Black Nook Slab f4 322
112 Black Nook Arête f4 * 268
113 Pockets Arête f5 * 179
114 Three Pocket Slab f6A *** 1392
115 Parental Duties f7B * 18
116 Heathery Ledge
-
V2 28
117 Big Block Gully f3 297
118 Sketchy Wall f5 * 31
119 Bow Crack f5+ * 128
Climb name Grade
120 Flake Arête f4 ** 280
121 Big Block Arête f4+ 195
122 The Undercut Traverse f6B * 44
123 Stretch and Mantel f6C *** 369
124 Undercut Dyno f7B ** 138
125 Stretch Left f6B * 157
126 Classic Arête f4 ** 869
127 Loose Flakes V0- 1
128 Dirty Crack VB 3
  Blister Slab
130 Blister Traverse f6A ** 19
131 Left Slab f4 * 798
132 Slab 2 f3 * 656
133 Blister's Sister f4+ * 812
134 Blister Slab f4+ ** 789
135 Back Slab Right f3+ * 702
136 Block and Crack f2+ 94
  Far Left Lower Tier
138 Boobidge f6A 1
139 Double D V5 *  
140 Malted Milk f6C ** 2
141 Drop Bears HVS 5b 2
142 Slabotomy Left-hand f7A+ **  
143 Slabotomy f7C *** 3
144 Beware Coconuts VS 4b 2
145 Burrito Deluxe E3 5c  
146 National Hero
-
E2 5c 1
147 Aniseed Snakes * f7B * 1
148 The Staffordshire Man * V5+ *** 1
  Ascent of Man
150 Snap, Crackle and Andy Popp E1 5c 1
151 Apache Dawn f7A+ * 2
152 Catastrophe Internationale f7A *** 8
153 Slippery Jim HVS 5a * 150
154 Bareback Rider f6B+ * 25
155 K.P. Nuts E7 7a * 1
156 Traverse of Man f6A * 121
157 Ascent of Man E3 6a *** 158
158 Ascent of Man Start f6A+ * 147
159 Ascent of Woman E3 6a * 12
160 Ascent of Woman Start f6B+ * 35
161 Days of Future Passed E3 6b * 4
162 The Aspirant E3 5c 10
  Teck Crack Buttress
164 Ackit HVS 5b ** 208
165 Just for Today E6 7a 1
166 Barriers in Time E6 6b *** 29
167 Sunday at Chapel E6 6c ** 1
168 Inertia Reel Traverse f8A+ *** 4
169 Ant Lives f7A * 30
170 Inertia Reel f7A+ *** 18
171 Turbo
-
V10 * 2
172 Turbo Extension f8A **  
173 Teck Crack Direct f6C ** 84
174 Thud
-
f7B * 16
175 Teck Crack Super Direct f7B+ * 2
176 The Dignity of Labour f7A ** 12
177 Teck Crack E1 5c ** 92
  Crystal Grazer
179 Joe's Hanging Crack E3 6a * 6
180 A Modest Proposal f7A 14
181 Skydivin' f6C * 1
182 Lightning Crack HVS 5b * 53
183 Mushin' f7C+ *** 13
184 The Boozy Traverse f6C+ 9
185 Pindels Numb E4 6b * 3
186 Pindles Numb Start f6C *  
187 Crystal Grazer E5 6a ** 5
188 Heredity E6 6c 1
189 A Fist Full of Crystals E6 6b *** 9
190 Doug E8 6c ** 3
191 Fred's Cafe VS 5a 17
  Dorothy's Dilemma
193 Crack on the Stairs HVD 4b 3
194 Yong Arête S 3c * 174
195 Poisonous Python HVS 5b * 54
196 Yong HVD 4a ** 1536
197 Something Better Change E2 5b * 354
198 Something Better Change Right-hand E2 5b 3
199 Wisecrack VS 4b * 68
200 Hypothesis HVS 5b ** 74
201 Destination Earth E7 6b ** 2
202 Cannonball Crack S 4b * 235
203 Graffiti E1 5b * 5
204 Dorothy's Dilemma E1 5a ** 117
205 Bengal Buttress HVS 4c ** 192
206 Schoolies E3 5c * 12
207 Chain Reaction E3 6a * 1
208 Steps
-
E5 6b  
  Valkyrie
210 Crack of Gloom E1 5b ** 66
211 Raven Rock Gully Left-hand VS 4b * 258
212 Raven Rock Gully D ** 585
213 Swinger VS 4c 37
214 Sidewinder E5 6a  
215 Via Dolorosa VS 4c *** 1316
216 Via Dolorosa Variations S 4a ** 39
217 Valkyrie Direct HVS 5b ** 179
218 Matinee HVS 5b ** 247
219 The Gutter f7A+ * 108
220 Valhalla f7B ** 2
221 Valkyrie VS 4c *** 2658
222 Valkyrie Corner HS 4b 251
223 Valkyrie Corner Flake Variant HS 4c * 12
224 Northern Comfort E6 6c ** 1
225 Licence to Kill E5 6b *** 5
226 Licence to Run E4 6a * 23
227 Licence to Lust E4 6a * 1
  The Swan Wall
229 Eugene's Axe E2 5c * 50
230 Pebbledash HVS 5a ** 782
231 Secrets of Dance E4 6a * 6
232 Against the Grain E6 7a *** 3
233 Thing on a Spring E6 7a *** 3
234 Up the Swanee E4 5c ** 24
235 The Swan E3 5c *** 133
236 The Super Girdle E4 6a ***  
237 Swan Bank E4 5c * 4
238 The Mincer HVS 5b *** 596
Climb name Grade
  Smear Test Slab
240 Smear Test E3 6a ** 192
241 Pincer VS 5a * 635
242 Kicking Bird E4 6a ** 28
243 Bloodstone E5 6b ** 7
244 Bloodspeed E6 6b ** 2
245 Blood, Sweat and Smears E4 6a ** 1
246 Cold Blood E6 6b 2
247 Guano Gully S 4b 118
248 Guano Gully Direct VS 5a  
  Elegy Slab
250 Mousey's Mistake E2 5b 7
251 A Little Peculiar E6 7b ** 1
252 Elegy E2 5c *** 482
253 Clive Coolhead Realises the Excitement of Knowing... E5 6b ** 23
254 The Bulger VS 4c * 435
255 Dirty Wee Rouge E3 6a 1
256 Fledgling's Climb HS 4a * 871
257 Wing Wing HS 4a 62
258 Little Chimney M 344
259 Battery Crack VS 4b 68
260 Lucas Chimney S 4a * 164
  Kestrel Buttress
262 Goldcrest E7 6c ***  
263 Hawkwing E1 5b *** 578
264 Poison Gift
-
E4 6a  
265 Carrion E3 5c * 13
266 Kestrel Crack VS 4b ** 752
267 Headless Horseman E1 5b 19
268 Logical Progression E7 6c ** 1
269 Sleepy Hollow E10 7a ***  
270 Flimney S 4a 239
271 Amaranth E4 5c  
272 Death Knell E4 5c *** 56
273 Pooh's Connection E2 6a 1
274 Rhodren HVS 5b * 369
275 Flake Chimney D * 364
276 Straight Crack HS 4a 195
277 Punch E3 6b * 4
278 Choka E1 5c * 100
  Chalkstorm Area
280 Stolen Days
-
E2 5c  
281 Circuit Breaker E3 6a * 3
282 Hunky Dory E3 6a *** 110
283 Fluorescent Stripper
-
E3 6a  
284 Prow Corner VD * 2272
285 Prow Corner Twin Cracks HVD 4a * 1739
286 Microstorm E1 5c 26
287 Chalkstorm E3 5c ** 934
288 Prow Cracks VD ** 2432
289 Prow Cracks Variations HVD * 834
290 Voila 3
-
E4 6a  
291 Commander Energy E2 5c *** 832
292 Sumo Cellulite E4 6a * 1
  Piece of Mind Slab
294 Rocking Stone Gully HVD 866
295 Captain Lethargy HVD 1600
296 Dougie Returns Home
-
E1 5b  
297 Sifta's Quid HS 4b * 1069
298 Sifta's Quid Inside Route S 3a 454
299 Obsession Fatale E8 6c *** 72
300 The Emergency Exit E6 6b 2
301 Piece of Mind E6 6b *** 92
302 Final Destination E8 6c ** 1
303 Thin Air E5 6a *** 96
  Bridge Boulder
305 Finger Anatomy f7A ** 1
306 Circumcision V4+ * 1
  Piece of Mind Boulders
308 Cottage Arête f5+ * 21
309 Cottage Arête Right
-
V1 10
310 Sketchy Arête f5+ 3
311 The Crystal Maze V9 2
312 Adventurous Arête f6A 3
313 Open Bum Cleft f6A * 25
314 The Jams f5+ ** 7
315 Hanging Arête f5 1
316 The Teacup f5 * 19
317 Big Bees Can't Fly f7A ** 7
318 Grewsome f6B * 49
319 Twisted Crack f6B * 36
320 Left Off
-
V3 9
321 Off Work f5+ * 46
322 Flake and Arête f5+ * 32
323 Flake and Arête Sit-start V6 2
324 Wildy's Arête f6A ** 183
325 Wildy's Arête Sit-start
-
V4 88
326 Wildy's Right f6A ** 209
327 Slab and Crack Left-hand V1 ** 52
328 Slab and Crack f3+ ** 199
329 Jobby f3+ * 123
330 Micky f3 * 54
331 Little Arête
-
V0- 17
332 Lazy Wall
-
V0- 21
333 Scab f5+ 9
334 Buster f6B 2
335 Sail Slab f2+ * 158
336 Mantel and Pocket f3 * 171
337 Mantel and Pocket Sit-start
-
V2 9
338 Sail Arête f3 * 162
339 Peer Pressure V0 17
340 Sail Rib f4+ * 160
341 Tittersworth Rib f5+ * 95
342 Tittersworth Rib Sit-start
-
V4 21
343 Weird Little 5c
-
V2 15
344 Chips Ahoy f5 * 87
345 Left and Up
-
V0- 22
346 The Stretch
-
V3 2
347 Dropsy f4+ * 1
348 The Blob f5 2
349 Crinkles Wall f6C+ * 1
350 Rock Room Slab f5 * 2
351 Annie's Egg f6C+ * 1
352 Ramp f4+ 16
353 Potty f4 27
354 Croissant Groove f5+ 14
  Other
356 The Roaches Ridge D 3a * 80
357 The Staffordshire Nose ED1 *** 6
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Col Allott