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UKClimbing Team

Climbs 327
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 402m a.s.l
Faces SW

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Winter sunset, The Roaches © Adam Long

Crag features

Magnificent imposing buttresses of superb natural grit up to 30m high. Shaded in summer, but slow to dry and green early in the year. 'Must do' routes include the astounding Valkrie (VS 4c), the delectable Elegy (E2 5c) and the immaculate The Swan (E3 5c). Slab and crystal lovers will be sated with a unique collection of desperate routes, the hardest of which is Doug (E8 6c). Some of the best bouldering on grit can be found both in the woods and on the spring boulders

The area faces southwest receiving the sun from mid-morning. It is often beautiful in late-afternoon sunshine. It catches the wind and dries quickly after rain but offers little shelter from bad weather. Most of the rock is clean although some north-facing sections can be green. The area around the Spring Boulders is usually very boggy in the winter.

Approach notes

The Roaches is situated to the east of the A53 between Buxton and Leek. At busy times, it is necessary to park at Upper Hulme, on the A53, from where the local council provides a bus link to the crag. At less busy times, parking is available on the road below the crag but please park considerately. From here, a well-worn path leads to the two main tiers past the conspicuous Rockhall Cottage (the Whillans Memorial BMC hut).

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Android and iOS devices.


Guidebooks

Peak Bouldering

The Peak Bouldering Rockfax is a massive book covering a huge area including all the main bouldering venues of the Peak District. It includes many more low-grade problems than have ever been documented before including 17 circuits with problems at V0+ 5a and under, and a further 21 circuits with problems at V2 5c and below.
More info

Western Grit

The 2009 edition of the award-winning guidebook to Staffordshire, Kinder, Bleaklow, Chew, Lancashire and Cheshire areas covered with photo-topos and descriptions.
More info
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Spring Boulders
  Bog Boulder
3 Bog Arête Left f2+ * 129
4 Bog Arête Right f6B ** 24
5 Pebbles and Seam f6A ** 49
6 Bog Monster f5+ * 102
7 Bog Standard f5+ * 55
8 Blind Flake
-
VB 64
9 Bog Slab f4 * 120
10 Poxy f2+ * 156
11 The Swinger f4+ 94
12 Runnel Arête f2+ * 93
13 Undercut Wall f4+ 79
14 Boo Meringue
-
V1 20
  Spring Boulder
16 Boba's Traverse V7  
17 Spring Slab f7A ** 154
18 C3PO f7A+ ** 102
19 Boba Fett f7B+ *** 4
20 Bobarête f7A ** 9
21 Easy Wall
-
VB 89
22 Sprung Stand Start V1 24
23 Sprung f6A ** 121
24 Sprat f4+ 145
25 Sprite f4+ 97
  Little Boulder
27 Spring Roll Left f5+ * 30
28 Spring Roll f4+ * 87
29 Slabby Seam f3 123
30 Blunt Arête f4 * 121
  Gentle Slab Boulder
32 The Nose f5 54
33 Wavy Slab f4+ * 77
34 Centre Slab f4+ * 52
35 Gentle Slab f3+ * 103
  The Ramp Boulder
37 The Ramp f5+ ** 40
38 Ramphole of the Roaches f5+ * 52
39 Flakes f5 * 45
40 Pod 'n' Up f5+ 25
41 Mid Pod f5 19
  Little Summit
43 Summit Arête f3+ 82
44 Slab to Summit f4+ 65
45 Mantel
-
V0- 45
46 A Nother Mantel
-
V0+ 30
  Shothole Boulder
48 Violence f6A ** 39
49 Impotence f6A * 32
50 Lout f6A * 26
51 The Claw V2 * 12
52 Seconds Out f5 ** 40
53 The Grind f7A ** 6
54 Skinned Rabbit f6B ** 11
55 Skinned Rabbit Sit-start
-
V6 * 9
56 Sin Left f6C+ ** 6
57 Sin f6C ** 12
58 Mr Nice f6B+ * 5
59 Mr Left f6C ** 1
60 Arête on Left f6B 8
61 Shothole Flakes f4+ * 27
  The Fly Boulder
63 The Fly f6B ** 11
64 The Fly Low Start V7 *  
65 The Lurch f6B 15
66 Heave Ho f6A 1
67 Scoop and Ramp
-
V0- 22
68 Easy Slab
-
V0- 25
  Lower Tier Boulders
  Dougless Boulder
71 Particle Exchange f7A *  
72 Dougless f6B * 5
73 The Rumour f7A+ ** 1
74 Sketchy Rib f5+ * 9
75 Slabby Arête f3+ * 25
76 Chips and Flake
-
f6A 13
77 Green Rib
-
V0 7
78 Scratchy Scoop
-
V3 3
79 Ned Zeppelin f8A **  
  Green Ramp Boulder
81 Boxing Gloves and Roller Skates VB * 8
  Pine Tree Slab
83 Boss Slab f4+ * 661
84 Pine Slab f5+ ** 720
85 Pine Crack f3 * 954
86 Squeezy Slab f5 ** 563
87 Up Chips f3 ** 862
88 Arch f4+ * 503
89 Pine Arête f4 * 448
90 Pine Arête Right f4 * 334
91 Green Slab
-
V3+ 153
92 Pine Martin f4+ ** 568
93 Pining for More f6A+ 4
94 P.E. V2 3
  Greener Boulder
96 Easy Rib V0 74
97 The Green Greenie V1 177
98 The Greener Traverse f6B *** 571
99 Greener Traverse - Turner's Extension V7 2
100 Greener Reverse V2 127
101 Greener Mantel f6A * 272
102 Greener Mantel Sit-start
-
V4 68
103 Greenerête f6B * 159
  Twin Flakes
105 Heinous Mantel f6C 64
106 Theo All The Way f7A 7
107 The Uppercut f6A ** 168
108 The Uppercut Eliminate V4 178
109 The Undercutter f5+ ** 392
110 The Grasper f4+ 374
111 Green Mantel f4 77
  The Big Block
113 Black Nook Slab f4 323
114 Black Nook Arête f4 * 268
115 Pockets Arête f5 * 181
116 Three Pocket Slab f6A *** 1415
117 Parental Duties f7B * 18
118 Heathery Ledge
-
V2 28
119 Big Block Gully f3 300
120 Sketchy Wall f5 * 33
Climb name Grade
121 Bow Crack f5+ * 131
122 Flake Arête f4 ** 283
123 Big Block Arête f4+ 197
124 The Undercut Traverse f6B * 45
125 Stretch and Mantel f6C *** 376
126 Undercut Dyno f7B ** 142
127 Stretch Left f6B * 160
128 Classic Arête f4 ** 879
129 Loose Flakes V0- 1
130 Dirty Crack VB 3
  Blister Slab
132 Blister Traverse f6A ** 26
133 Left Slab f4 * 820
134 Slab 2 f3 * 678
135 Blister's Sister f4+ * 831
136 Blister Slab f4+ ** 806
137 Back Slab Right f3+ * 717
138 Block and Crack f2+ 104
  Far Left Lower Tier
140 Boobidge f6A 1
141 Double D V5 *  
142 Malted Milk f6C ** 2
143 Drop Bears HVS 5b 2
144 Slabotomy Left-hand f7A+ **  
145 Slabotomy f7C *** 3
146 Beware Coconuts VS 4b 2
147 Burrito Deluxe E3 5c  
148 National Hero
-
E2 5c 1
149 Aniseed Snakes f7B * 1
150 The Staffordshire Man V5+ *** 1
  Ascent of Man
152 Snap, Crackle and Andy Popp E1 5c 1
153 Apache Dawn f7A+ * 2
154 Catastrophe Internationale f7A *** 8
155 Slippery Jim HVS 5a * 151
156 Bareback Rider f6B+ * 24
157 K.P. Nuts E7 7a * 1
158 Traverse of Man f6A * 125
159 Ascent of Man E3 6a *** 158
160 Ascent of Man Start f6A+ * 152
161 Ascent of Woman E3 6a * 12
162 Ascent of Woman Start f6B+ * 35
163 Days of Future Passed E3 6b * 4
164 The Aspirant E3 5c 10
  Teck Crack Buttress
166 Ackit HVS 5b ** 208
167 Just for Today E6 7a 1
168 Barriers in Time E6 6b *** 29
169 Sunday at Chapel E6 6c ** 1
170 Inertia Reel Traverse f8A+ *** 4
171 Ant Lives f7A * 31
172 Inertia Reel f7A+ *** 18
173 Turbo
-
V10 * 2
174 Turbo Extension f8A **  
175 Teck Crack Direct f6C ** 84
176 Thud
-
f7B * 16
177 Teck Crack Super Direct f7B+ * 2
178 The Dignity of Labour f7A ** 12
179 Teck Crack E1 5c ** 93
  Crystal Grazer
181 Joe's Hanging Crack E3 6a * 6
182 A Modest Proposal f7A 14
183 Skydivin' f6C * 1
184 Lightning Crack HVS 5b * 53
185 Mushin' f7C+ *** 13
186 The Boozy Traverse f6C+ 9
187 Pindels Numb E4 6b * 2
188 Pindles Numb Start f6C *  
189 Crystal Grazer E5 6a ** 5
190 Heredity E6 6c 1
191 A Fist Full of Crystals E6 6b *** 10
192 Doug E8 6c ** 3
193 Fred's Cafe VS 5a 17
  Dorothy's Dilemma
195 Crack on the Stairs HVD 4b 3
196 Yong Arête S 3c * 176
197 Poisonous Python HVS 5b * 54
198 Yong HVD 4a ** 1547
199 Something Better Change E2 5b * 355
200 Something Better Change Right-hand E2 5b 3
201 Wisecrack VS 4b * 69
202 Hypothesis HVS 5b ** 74
203 Destination Earth E7 6b ** 2
204 Cannonball Crack S 4b * 236
205 Graffiti E1 5b * 5
206 Dorothy's Dilemma E1 5a ** 121
207 Bengal Buttress HVS 4c ** 193
208 Schoolies E3 5c * 12
209 Chain Reaction E3 6a * 1
210 Steps
-
E5 6b  
  Valkyrie
212 Crack of Gloom E1 5b ** 66
213 Raven Rock Gully Left-hand VS 4b * 258
214 Raven Rock Gully D ** 586
215 Swinger VS 4c 37
216 Sidewinder E5 6a  
217 Via Dolorosa VS 4c *** 1329
218 Via Dolorosa Variations S 4a ** 39
219 Valkyrie Direct HVS 5b ** 180
220 Matinee HVS 5b ** 247
221 The Gutter f7A+ * 111
222 Valhalla f7B ** 2
223 Valkyrie VS 4c *** 2680
224 Valkyrie Corner HS 4b 251
225 Valkyrie Corner Flake Variant HS 4c * 12
226 Northern Comfort E6 6c ** 1
227 Licence to Kill E5 6b *** 5
228 Licence to Run E4 6a * 23
229 Licence to Lust E4 6a * 1
  The Swan Wall
231 Eugene's Axe E2 5c * 50
232 Pebbledash HVS 5a ** 790
233 Secrets of Dance E4 6a * 6
234 Against the Grain E6 7a *** 3
235 Thing on a Spring E6 7a *** 3
236 Up the Swanee E4 5c ** 24
237 The Swan E3 5c *** 134
238 The Super Girdle E4 6a ***  
239 Swan Bank E4 5c * 4
240 The Mincer HVS 5b *** 598
Climb name Grade
  Smear Test Slab
242 Smear Test E3 6a ** 192
243 Pincer VS 5a * 638
244 Kicking Bird E4 6a ** 28
245 Bloodstone E5 6b ** 9
246 Bloodspeed E6 6b ** 2
247 Blood, Sweat and Smears E4 6a ** 1
248 Cold Blood E6 6b 2
249 Guano Gully S 4b 119
250 Guano Gully Direct VS 5a  
  Elegy Slab
252 Mousey's Mistake E2 5b 7
253 A Little Peculiar E6 7b ** 1
254 Elegy E2 5c *** 486
255 Clive Coolhead Realises the Excitement of Knowing... E5 6b ** 23
256 The Bulger VS 4c * 437
257 Dirty Wee Rouge E3 6a 1
258 Fledgling's Climb HS 4a * 875
259 Wing Wing HS 4a 62
260 Little Chimney M 345
261 Battery Crack VS 4b 68
262 Lucas Chimney S 4a * 168
  Kestrel Buttress
264 Goldcrest E7 6c ***  
265 Hawkwing E1 5b *** 581
266 Poison Gift
-
E4 6a  
267 Carrion E3 5c * 13
268 Kestrel Crack VS 4b ** 755
269 Headless Horseman E1 5b 19
270 Logical Progression E7 6c ** 1
271 Sleepy Hollow E10 7a ***  
272 Flimney S 4a 241
273 Amaranth E4 5c  
274 Death Knell E4 5c *** 57
275 Pooh's Connection E2 6a 1
276 Rhodren HVS 5b * 372
277 Flake Chimney D * 366
278 Straight Crack HS 4a 195
279 Punch E3 6b * 4
280 Choka E1 5c * 101
  Chalkstorm Area
282 Stolen Days
-
E2 5c  
283 Circuit Breaker E3 6a * 3
284 Hunky Dory E3 6a *** 110
285 Fluorescent Stripper
-
E3 6a  
286 Prow Corner VD * 2285
287 Prow Corner Twin Cracks HVD 4a * 1756
288 Microstorm E1 5c 26
289 Chalkstorm E3 5c ** 946
290 Prow Cracks VD ** 2445
291 Prow Cracks Variations HVD * 843
292 Voila 3
-
E4 6a  
293 Commander Energy E2 5c *** 835
294 Sumo Cellulite E4 6a * 1
  Piece of Mind Slab
296 Rocking Stone Gully HVD 868
297 Captain Lethargy HVD 1605
298 Dougie Returns Home
-
E1 5b  
299 Sifta's Quid HS 4b * 1071
300 Sifta's Quid Inside Route S 3a 455
301 Obsession Fatale E8 6c *** 73
302 The Emergency Exit E6 6b 2
303 Piece of Mind E6 6b *** 95
304 Final Destination E8 6c ** 1
305 Thin Air E5 6a *** 100
  Bridge Boulder
307 Finger Anatomy f7A ** 1
308 Circumcision V4+ * 1
  Piece of Mind Boulders
310 Cottage Arête f5+ * 21
311 Cottage Arête Right
-
V1 10
312 Sketchy Arête f5+ 3
313 The Crystal Maze V9 2
314 Adventurous Arête f6A 3
315 Open Bum Cleft f6A * 25
316 The Jams f5+ ** 7
317 Hanging Arête f5 1
318 The Teacup f5 * 20
319 Big Bees Can't Fly f7A ** 8
320 Grewsome f6B * 50
321 Twisted Crack f6B * 37
322 Left Off
-
V3 9
323 Off Work f5+ * 46
324 Flake and Arête f5+ * 33
325 Flake and Arête Sit-start V6 2
326 Wildy's Arête f6A ** 184
327 Wildy's Arête Sit-start
-
V4 88
328 Wildy's Right f6A ** 210
329 Slab and Crack Left-hand V1 ** 53
330 Slab and Crack f3+ ** 201
331 Jobby f3+ * 124
332 Micky f3 * 54
333 Little Arête
-
V0- 17
334 Lazy Wall
-
V0- 21
335 Scab f5+ 9
336 Buster f6B 2
337 Sail Slab f2+ * 160
338 Mantel and Pocket f3 * 173
339 Mantel and Pocket Sit-start
-
V2 10
340 Sail Arête f3 * 163
341 Peer Pressure V0 17
342 Sail Rib f4+ * 163
343 Tittersworth Rib f5+ * 95
344 Tittersworth Rib Sit-start
-
V4 21
345 Weird Little 5c
-
V2 15
346 Chips Ahoy f5 * 87
347 Left and Up
-
V0- 22
348 The Stretch
-
V3 2
349 Dropsy f4+ * 1
350 The Blob f5 2
351 Crinkles Wall f6C+ * 1
352 Rock Room Slab f5 * 2
353 Annie's Egg f6C+ * 1
354 Ramp f4+ 16
355 Potty f4 27
356 Croissant Groove f5+ 14
  Other
358 The Roaches Ridge D 3a * 80
359 The Staffordshire Nose ED1 *** 6

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