UKC

Climbs 332
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 410m a.s.l
Faces SW

Winter sunset, The Roaches © Adam Long

Crag features

Magnificent imposing buttresses of superb natural grit up to 30m high. Shaded in summer, but slow to dry and green early in the year. 'Must do' routes include the astounding Valkrie (VS 4c), the delectable Elegy (E2 5c) and the immaculate The Swan (E3 5c). Slab and crystal lovers will be sated with a unique collection of desperate routes, the hardest of which is Doug (E8 6c). Some of the best bouldering on grit can be found both in the woods and on the spring boulders

Route grades and numbers (especially bouldering) are based on BMC The Staffordshire Gritstone Guide (2003)

Approach notes

Very limited parking below the crag. There is a park and ride from Tittesworth Reservoir, off the A53 Buxton to Leek road (SK 993601), weekends only, May to September. Obvious track leads to the Lower Tier. Upper Tier is above (!), The Skyline the northward (left) continuation of the Upper Tier.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

Peak Bouldering

The Peak Bouldering Rockfax is a massive book covering a huge area including all the main bouldering venues of the Peak District. It includes many more low-grade problems than have ever been documented before including 17 circuits with problems at V0+ 5a and under, and a further 21 circuits with problems at V2 5c and below.
More info

Western Grit

The 2009 edition of the award-winning guidebook to Staffordshire, Kinder, Bleaklow, Chew, Lancashire and Cheshire areas covered with photo-topos and descriptions.
More info
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Spring Boulders
  Bog Boulder
3 Bog Arête Left f2+ * 116
4 Bog Arête Right f6B ** 22
5 Pebbles and Seam f6A ** 47
6 Bog Monster f5+ * 96
7 Bog Standard f5+ * 44
8 Blind Flake VB 63
9 Bog Slab f4 * 108
10 Poxy f2+ * 145
11 The Swinger f4+ 87
12 Runnel Arête f2+ * 84
13 Undercut Wall f4+ 78
14 Boo Meringue
-
V1 5b 20
  Spring Boulder
16 Spring Slab f7A ** 141
17 C3PO f7A+ ** 91
18 Boba Fett f7B+ *** 4
19 Bobarete f7A ** 9
20 Easy Wall VB 87
21 Sprung f6A ** 99
22 Sprat f4+ 127
23 Sprung - Standing version V1 5b 19
24 Sprite f4+ 91
  Little Boulder
26 Spring Roll Left f5+ * 27
27 Spring Roll f4+ * 83
28 Slabby Seam f3 115
29 Blunt Arête f4 * 111
  Gentle Slab Boulder
31 Low Slopes V1 5b 16
32 The Nose (Gentle Slab) f5 37
33 Wavy Slab f4+ * 70
34 Centre Slab f4+ * 49
35 Gentle Slab f3+ * 93
36 Slab to Summit f4+ 63
  The Ramp Boulder
38 The Ramp (Melt) f5+ ** 34
39 Ramphole of the Roaches f5+ * 47
40 Flakes (Spring) f5 * 41
41 Pod 'n' Up f5+ 23
42 Mid Pod f5 17
  Little Summit
44 Summit Arête f3+ 78
45 Mantel V0- 4b 39
46 A Nother Mantel V0+ 5a 30
  Shothole Boulder
48 Violence f6A ** 38
49 Impotence f6A * 31
50 Lout f6A * 25
51 The Claw V2 5c * 12
52 Seconds Out f5 ** 39
53 The Grind f7A ** 6
54 Skinned Rabbit f6B ** 9
55 Skinned Rabbit Sit-Start
-
V6 * 8
56 Sin Left f6C+ ** 4
57 Sin (Arête on Right) f6C ** 9
58 Mr Nice f6B+ * 5
59 Mr Left f6C ** 1
60 Arete on Left (Shothole) f6B 7
61 Shothole Flakes f4+ * 23
  The Fly Boulder
63 The Fly f6B ** 11
64 The Lurch f6B 15
65 Heave Ho f6A 1
66 Scoop and Ramp
-
V0- 5a 22
67 Easy Slab
-
V0- 4b 25
  Lower Tier Boulders
69 Aniseed snakes * f7B * 1
  Dougless Boulder
71 Particle Exchange f7A *  
72 Doug-less f6B * 5
73 The Rumour f7A+ ** 1
74 Sketchy Rib f5+ * 7
75 Slabby Arête f3+ * 24
76 Chips and Flake
-
f6A 13
77 Green Rib
-
V0 4b 7
78 Scratchy Scoop
-
V3 6a 3
79 Ned Zeppelin f8A **  
  Boulder Behind
81 Lip Traverse V5 6b 3
82 Mantel V4 6b 7
  Pine Tree Slab
84 Boss Slab f4+ * 544
85 Pine Slab f5+ ** 605
86 Pine Crack f3 * 792
87 Squeezy Slab f5 ** 466
88 Up Chips f3 ** 729
89 Arch f4+ * 426
90 Pine Arête f4 * 371
91 Pine Arête Right f4 * 284
92 Green Slab
-
V3 6a 140
93 Pine Martin f4+ ** 489
  Greener Boulder
95 Easy Rib V0 4b 71
96 The Green Greenie V1 5c 160
97 The Greener Traverse f6B *** 472
98 Greener Reverse V1 5+ 98
99 Greener Mantel f6A * 216
100 Greener Mantel Sit-Start
-
V4 53
101 Greenerate f6B * 128
  Twin Flakes
103 Henious Mantel
-
V7 6c 20
104 Heinous Mantel f6C 28
105 Theo All The Way f7A 5
106 The Uppercut (With Arête)
-
V3 158
107 The Uppercut f6A ** 101
108 The Undercutter f5+ ** 308
109 The Grasper f4+ 308
110 Green Mantel f4 65
  The Big Block
112 Black Nook Slab f4 295
113 Black Nook Arête f4 * 250
114 Pockets Arête f5 * 168
115 Three Pocket Slab f6A *** 1221
116 Parental Duties f7B * 12
117 Heathery Ledge
-
V2 5c 26
118 Big Block Gully f3 253
119 Sketchy Wall f5 * 24
120 Bow Crack
-
V3 5c 87
121 Flake Arête f4 ** 225
Climb name Grade
122 Big Block Arête f4+ 175
123 The Undercut Traverse f6B * 38
124 Stretch and Mantel f6C *** 318
125 Undercut Dyno f7B ** 121
126 Stretch Left f6B * 136
127 Classic Arête f4 ** 763
  Blister Slab
129 Left Slab (Blister) f4 * 674
130 Slab 2 f3 * 545
131 Blister's Sister f4+ * 687
132 Blister Slab f4+ ** 664
133 Back Slab Right f3+ * 601
134 Blisters traverse of the arêtes * f6A ** 2
  Far Left Lower Tier
136 Malted Milk f6C ** 2
137 Boobidge f6A 1
138 Double D V5 *  
139 Drop Bears HVS 5b 2
140 Slabotomy f7C *** 3
141 Beware Coconuts VS 4b 1
142 Burrito Deluxe E3 5c  
143 National Hero
-
E2 5c 1
  Ascent of Man
145 Snap, Crackle and Andy Popp E1 5c 1
146 Apache Dawn f7A+ * 2
147 Catastrophe Internationale f7A *** 8
148 Slippery Jim HVS 5a * 135
149 Bareback Rider f6B+ * 25
150 K.P. Nuts E7 7a * 1
151 Ascent of Man E3 6a *** 149
152 Ascent of Man Start f6A+ * 124
153 Ascent of Woman E3 6a * 11
154 Ascent of Woman Start f6B+ * 23
155 Traverse of Man f6A * 103
156 Bow Crack f5+ * 24
157 Days of Future Passed E3 6b * 4
  Teck Crack Buttress
159 The Aspirant E3 5c 10
160 Ackit HVS 5b ** 194
161 Just For Today E6 7a 1
162 Barriers in Time E6 6b *** 27
163 Sunday at Chapel E6 6c ** 1
164 Ant Lives f7A * 23
165 Inertia Reel f7A+ *** 15
166 Turbo
-
V11 7a * 2
167 Thud
-
f7B 6c * 16
168 Teck Crack Direct f6C ** 73
169 Teck Crack Super Direct f7B+ * 2
170 The Dignity of Labour f7A ** 12
171 A Modest Proposal f7A 9
172 Teck Crack E1 5c ** 86
173 Joe's Hanging Crack E3 6a * 6
174 Skydivin' V4 6b * 1
175 Inertia Reel Traverse f8A+ *** 2
176 Lightning Crack HVS 5b * 49
177 Mushin' f7C+ *** 11
178 Boozy Traverse f6C+ 7
179 Pindels Numb E4 6b * 3
180 Pindles Numb Start f6C *  
181 Crystal Grazer E5 6a ** 5
182 Heredity E6 6c 1
183 A Fist Full of Crystals E6 6b *** 9
184 Doug E8 6c ** 3
185 Fred's Cafe VS 5a 18
  Yong Buttress
187 Yong Arête S 3c * 164
188 Poisonous Python HVS 5b * 49
189 Yong HVD 4a ** 1412
190 Something Better Change E2 5b * 332
191 Wisecrack VS 4b * 63
192 Hypothesis HVS 5b ** 68
193 Destination Earth E7 6b ** 2
194 Crack on the Stairs * HVD 4b 2
  Bengal Buttress
196 Cannonball Crack S 4b * 222
197 Graffiti E1 5b * 5
198 Dorothy's Dilemma E1 5a ** 109
199 Bengal Buttress HVS 4c ** 179
200 Schoolies E3 5c * 11
201 Chain Reaction E3 6a * 1
202 Steps
-
E5 6b  
  Raven Rock
204 Crack of Gloom E1 5b ** 62
205 Raven Rock Gully Left-hand VS 4b * 241
206 Raven Rock Gully D ** 545
207 Swinger VS 4c 35
208 Sidewinder E5 6a  
209 Via Dolorosa VS 4c *** 1192
210 Via Dolorosa Variations S 4a ** 35
211 Valkyrie Direct HVS 5b ** 161
212 Matinee HVS 5b ** 226
213 The Gutter f7A+ * 94
214 Valkyrie VS 4c *** 2466
215 Valkyrie corner HS 4b 233
216 Valkyrie Corner Flake Variant HS 4c * 11
217 Northern Comfort E6 6c ** 1
218 Licence to Kill E5 6b *** 4
219 Licence to Run E4 6a * 21
220 Licence to Lust E4 6a *  
  The Swan Wall
222 Eugene's Axe E2 5c * 49
223 Pebbledash HVS 5a ** 718
224 Secrets of Dance E4 6a * 5
225 Against the Grain E6 7a *** 2
226 Thing on a Spring E6 7a *** 3
227 Up the Swanee E4 5c ** 19
228 The Swan E3 5c *** 117
229 Swan Bank E4 5c * 4
230 The Mincer HVS 5b *** 545
  Smear Test Slab
232 Smear Test E3 6a ** 177
233 Pincer VS 5a * 586
234 Cold Blood E6 6b 1
235 Kicking Bird E4 6a ** 26
236 Bloodstone E5 6b ** 7
237 Bloodspeed E6 6b ** 1
238 Guano Gully S 4b 112
239 Mousey's Mistake E2 5b 4
  Elegy Slab
241 A Little Peculiar E6 7b ** 1
242 Elegy E2 5c *** 444
Climb name Grade
243 Clive Coolhead E5 6b ** 20
244 The Bulger VS 4c * 397
245 Dirty Wee Rouge E3 6a  
246 Fledgling's Climb HS 4a * 787
247 Wing Wing HS 4a 59
248 Little Chimney M 317
249 Battery Crack VS 4b 58
250 Lucas Chimney S 4a * 142
  Kestrel Buttress
252 Goldcrest E7 6c ***  
253 Hawkwing E1 5b *** 526
254 Carrion E3 5c * 13
255 Kestrel Crack VS 4b ** 679
256 Headless Horseman E1 5b 19
257 Logical Progression E7 6c ** 1
258 Sleepy Hollow E10 7a ***  
259 Flimney S 4a 205
260 Amaranth E4 5c  
261 Death Knell E4 5c *** 50
262 Pooh's Connection E2 6a 1
263 Rhodren HVS 5b * 333
264 Flake Chimney D * 330
  Chalkstorm Area
266 Straight Crack HS 4a 178
267 Punch E3 6b * 4
268 Choka E1 5c * 83
269 Circuit Breaker E3 6a * 3
270 Hunky Dory E3 6a *** 103
271 Prow Corner VD * 2113
272 Corner Cracks HVD 4a * 1465
273 Micro-Storm E1 5c 26
274 Chalkstorm E3 5c ** 853
275 Prow Cracks VD ** 2263
276 Prow Cracks Variations HVD * 764
277 Commander Energy E2 5c *** 766
278 Sumo Cellulite E4 6a * 1
  Piece of Mind Slab
280 Rocking Stone Gully HVD 825
281 Captain Lethargy HVD 1479
282 Sifta's Quid HS 4b * 1007
283 Sifta's Quid Inside Route S 3a 411
284 Obsession Fatale E8 6c *** 65
285 Piece of Mind E6 6b *** 84
286 The Emergency Exit E6 6b 2
287 Final Destination E8 6c ** 1
288 Thin Air E5 6a *** 92
289 The Roaches Ridge D 3a * 76
290 The Super Girdle E4 6a ***  
  Piece of Mind Boulders
292 Cottage Arête f5+ * 18
293 Cottage Arête Right
-
V1 9
294 The Crystal Maze V9 2
295 Open Bum Cleft f6A * 25
296 Sketchy Arête f5+ 3
297 Adventurous Arête f6A 3
298 The Jams f5+ ** 6
299 Hanging Arête f5 1
300 The Teacup f5 * 17
301 Grewsome f6B * 30
302 Twisted Crack f6B * 33
303 Left Off V3 5c 7
304 Off Work f5+ * 35
305 Flake and Arête f5+ * 26
306 Sticky Wall V5 6b 2
307 Wildy's Arête f6A ** 161
308 Wildy's Arête Sit-Start
-
V5 77
309 Wildy's Right f6A ** 182
310 Slab and Crack f3+ ** 183
311 Slab and Crack - Left Finish V1 5b 45
312 Jobby f3+ * 111
313 Micky f3 * 52
314 Little Arête V0- 18
315 Lazy Wall V0- 4b 22
316 Scab f5+ 9
317 Buster f6B 2
318 Sail Slab f2+ * 149
319 Mantel and Pocket f3 * 160
320 Mantle and Pocket Sit-Start
-
V2 9
321 Sail Arête f3 * 149
322 Peer Pressure V0 4c 18
323 Sail Rib f4+ * 148
324 Tittersworth Rib f5+ * 90
325 Tittersworth Rib Sit-Start
-
V4 21
326 Weird Little 5c
-
V2 6a 16
327 Chips Ahoy f5 * 79
328 Left and Up
-
V0- 4b 22
329 The Stretch
-
V3 6a 3
330 Ramp f4+ 16
331 The Potty f4 27
332 Croissant Groove f5+ 12
333 Dropsy f4+ * 1
334 The Blob f5 2
335 Crinkles Wall f6C+ * 1
336 Annie's Egg f6C+ * 1
337 Radical Runnel
-
V2 5c 1
338 Little Mantel V0 5a 2
339 Flake and Groove V0- 4a 7
340 Two Bumps * V6 1
  Unknown Problems and Routes
342 Boxing Gloves and Roller Skates VB * 6
343 Prow Corner Twin Cracks HVD 4a * 141
344 Rock Room Slab f5 * 2
345 The Staffordshire Nose ED1 *** 6
346 Loose Flakes V0- 1
347 Dirty Crack VB 2
348 The Flake
-
V0 7
349 Flake Crack
-
V0 4 3
350 P.17 f4 2
351 P.15 f3+ 2
352 P.18 f3+ 1
353 Blister slab stay low traverse V2 5b 5
354 Something Better Change RH E2 5b 3
355 Block and Crack f2+ 44
356 The Fly Low Start V7 6c *  
357 Turbo Extension * f8A **  
358 Greener Traverse - Turner's Extension * V7  
359 The Staffordshire Man * V5+ *** 1
360 Slabotomy Lefthand * f7A+ **  
361 Valhalla * f7B ** 1
362 Finger Anatomy * f7A ** 1
363 Circumcision * V4+ * 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Col Allott