Climbs 327
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 410m a.s.l
Faces SW

Winter sunset, The Roaches © Adam Long

Crag features

Magnificent imposing buttresses of superb natural grit up to 30m high. Shaded in summer, but slow to dry and green early in the year. 'Must do' routes include the astounding Valkrie (VS 4c), the delectable Elegy (E2 5c) and the immaculate The Swan (E3 5c). Slab and crystal lovers will be sated with a unique collection of desperate routes, the hardest of which is Doug (E8 6c). Some of the best bouldering on grit can be found both in the woods and on the spring boulders

Route grades and numbers (especially bouldering) are based on BMC The Staffordshire Gritstone Guide (2003)

Approach notes

Very limited parking below the crag. There is a park and ride from Tittesworth Reservoir, off the A53 Buxton to Leek road (SK 993601), weekends only, May to September. Obvious track leads to the Lower Tier. Upper Tier is above (!), The Skyline the northward (left) continuation of the Upper Tier.

Guidebooks

Peak Bouldering

The Peak Bouldering Rockfax is a massive book covering a huge area including all the main bouldering venues of the Peak District. It includes many more low-grade problems than have ever been documented before including 17 circuits with problems at V0+ 5a and under, and a further 21 circuits with problems at V2 5c and below.
More info

Western Grit

The 2009 edition of the award-winning guidebook to Staffordshire, Kinder, Bleaklow, Chew, Lancashire and Cheshire areas covered with photo-topos and descriptions.
More info
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Spring Boulders 
 Bog Boulder 
3Bog Arête Leftf2+ *91
4Bog Arête Rightf6B **19
5Pebbles and Seamf6A **44
6Bog Monsterf5+ *77
7Bog Standardf5+ *26
8Blind FlakeVB 56
9Bog Slabf4 *85
10Poxyf2+ *122
11The Swingerf4+ 69
12Runnel Arêtef2+ *66
13Undercut Wallf4+ 64
14Boo Meringue
-
V1 18
 Spring Boulder 
16Spring Slabf7A **137
17C3POf7A+ **106
18Boba Fettf7B+ ***3
19Bobaretef7A **9
20Easy WallVB 81
21Sprungf6A **80
22Spratf4+ 105
23Sprung - Standing versionV1 16
24Spritef4+ 79
 Little Boulder 
26Spring Roll Leftf5+ *26
27Spring Rollf4+ *79
28Slabby Seamf3 98
29Blunt Arêtef4 *94
 Gentle Slab Boulder 
31Low SlopesV1 14
32The Nose (Gentle Slab)f5 29
33Wavy Slabf4+ *55
34Centre Slabf4+ *44
35Gentle Slabf3+ *74
36Slab to Summitf4+ 59
 The Ramp Boulder 
38The Ramp (Melt)f5+ **12
39Ramphole of the Roachesf5+ *29
40Flakes (Spring)f5 *21
41Pod 'n' Upf5+ 10
42Mid Podf5 9
 Little Summit 
44Summit Arêtef3+ 70
45MantelV0- 36
46A Nother MantelV0+ 28
 Shothole Boulder 
48Violencef6A **37
49Impotencef6A *30
50Loutf6A *26
51The ClawV2 *12
52Seconds Outf5 **33
53The Grindf7A **5
54Skinned Rabbitf6B **9
55Skinned Rabbit Sit-Start
-
V6 *8
56Sin Leftf6C+ **4
57Sin (Arête on Right)f6C **6
58Mr Nicef6B+ *5
59Mr Leftf6C **1
60Arete on Left (Shothole)f6B 5
61Shothole Flakesf4+ *19
 The Fly Boulder 
63The Flyf6B **11
64The Lurchf6B 15
65Heave Hof6A 1
66Scoop and Ramp
-
V0- 20
67Easy Slab
-
V0- 21
 Lower Tier Boulders 
 Dougless Boulder 
70Particle Exchangef7A * 
71Doug-lessf6B *5
72The Rumourf7A+ **1
73Sketchy Ribf5+ *7
74Slabby Arêtef3+ *20
75Chips and Flake
-
f6A 11
76Green Rib
-
V0 5
77Scratchy Scoop
-
V3 3
78Ned Zeppelinf8A ** 
 Boulder Behind 
80Lip TraverseV5 3
81MantelV4 7
 Pine Tree Slab 
83Boss Slabf4+ *417
84Pine Slabf5+ **489
85Pine Crackf3 *644
86Squeezy Slabf5 **376
87Up Chipsf3 **600
88Archf4+ *328
89Pine Arêtef4 *295
90Pine Arête Rightf4 *222
91Green Slab
-
V3 122
92Pine Martinf4+ **398
 Greener Boulder 
94Easy RibV0 66
95The Green GreenieV1 141
96The Greener Traversef6B ***382
97Greener ReverseV1 74
98Greener Mantelf6A *147
99Greener Mantel Sit-Start
-
V4 44
100Greeneratef6B *99
 Twin Flakes 
102Henious Mantel
-
V7 20
103Heinous Mantelf6C 15
104Theo All The Wayf7A 2
105The Uppercut (With Arête)
-
V3 132
106The Uppercutf6A **65
107The Undercutterf5+ **236
108The Grasperf4+ 231
109Green Mantelf4 52
 The Big Block 
111Black Nook Slabf4 261
112Black Nook Arêtef4 *217
113Pockets Arêtef5 *150
114Three Pocket Slabf6A ***1071
115Parental Dutiesf7B *11
116Heathery Ledge
-
V2 24
117Big Block Gullyf3 209
118Sketchy Wallf5 *16
119Bow Crack
-
V3 63
120Flake Arêtef4 **191
121Big Block Arêtef4+ 144
122The Undercut Traversef6B *37
123Stretch and Mantelf6C ***291
124Undercut Dynof7B **127
125Stretch Leftf6B *124
126Classic Arêtef4 **671
 Blister Slab 
128Left Slab (Blister)f4 *546
129Slab 2f3 *408
130Blister's Sisterf4+ *550
131Blister Slabf4+ **538
132Back Slab Rightf3+ *476
 Far Left Lower Tier 
134Malted Milkf6C **2
135Boobidgef6A 1
136Double DV5 * 
137Drop BearsHVS 5b 2
138Slabotomyf7C ***3
139Beware CoconutsVS 4b 1
140Burrito DeluxeE3 5c  
141National Hero
-
E2 5c 1
 Ascent of Man 
143Snap, Crackle and Andy PoppE1 5c 1
144Apache Dawnf7A+ *2
145Catastrophe Internationalef7A ***8
146Slippery JimHVS 5b 129
147Bareback Riderf6B+ *30
148K.P. NutsE7 6c *1
149Ascent of ManE3 6a ***178
150Ascent of Man Startf6A+ *98
151Ascent of WomanE3 6a *12
152Ascent of Woman Startf6B+ *12
153Traverse of Manf6A *81
154Bow Crackf5+ *21
155Days of Future PassedE3 6b *4
 Teck Crack Buttress 
157The AspirantE3 5c *10
158AckitHVS 5b **193
159Just For TodayE6 7a **1
160Barriers in TimeE6 6b ***45
161Sunday at ChapelE6 6c **1
162Ant Livesf7A *18
163Inertia Reelf7A+ ***12
164Turbo
-
V11 *2
165Thud
-
f7B *24
166Teck Crack Directf6C **71
167Teck Crack Super Directf7B+ *2
168The Dignity of Labourf7A **11
169A Modest Proposalf7A 8
170Teck CrackE1 5c *100
171Joe's Hanging CrackE3 6a *8
172Skydivin'V4 *1
173Inertia Reel Traversef8A+ ***1
174Lightning CrackHVS 5b *45
175Mushin'f7C+ ***21
176Boozy Traversef6C+ 7
177Pindels NumbE4 6b *3
178Pindles Numb Startf6C * 
179Crystal GrazerE5 6a **5
180HeredityE6 6c 1
181A Fist Full of CrystalsE6 6b ***7
182DougE8 6c **3
183Fred's CafeVS 5a 17
 Yong Buttress 
185Yong ArêteS 3c *158
186Poisonous PythonHVS 5b *46
187YongHVD 4a **1273
188Something Better ChangeE2 5b *322
189WisecrackVS 4b *54
190HypothesisHVS 5b **65
191Destination EarthE7 6b **2
 Bengal Buttress 
193Cannonball CrackS 4b *206
194GraffitiE1 5b *5
195Dorothy's DilemmaE1 5a **114
196Bengal ButtressHVS 4c **178
197SchooliesE3 5c *10
198Chain ReactionE3 6a *1
199Steps
-
E5 6b  
 Raven Rock 
201Crack of GloomE1 5b **72
202Raven Rock Gully Left-handVS 4b *226
203Raven Rock GullyD **508
204SwingerVS 4c 32
205SidewinderE5 6a  
206Via DolorosaVS 4c ***1175
207Via Dolorosa VariationsS 4a **49
208Valkyrie DirectHVS 5b **178
209MatineeHVS 5b **261
210The Gutterf7A+ *104
211ValkyrieVS 4c ***2658
212Valkyrie cornerHS 4b 209
213Valkyrie Corner Flake VariantHS 4c *10
214Northern ComfortE6 6c **1
215Licence to KillE5 6b ***4
216Licence to RunE4 6a *25
217Licence to LustE4 6a * 
 The Swan Wall 
219Eugene's AxeE2 5c *46
220PebbledashHVS 5a **662
221Secrets of DanceE4 6a *8
222Against the GrainE6 7a ***2
223Thing on a SpringE6 7a ***3
224Up the SwaneeE4 5c **20
225The SwanE3 5c ***153
226Swan BankE4 5c *4
227The MincerHVS 5b ***571
 Smear Test Slab 
229Smear TestE3 6a **221
230PincerVS 5a *528
231Cold BloodE6 6b 1
232Kicking BirdE4 6a **26
233BloodstoneE5 6b **5
234BloodspeedE6 6b **1
235Guano GullyHS 4b 109
236Mousey's MistakeE2 5b 4
 Elegy Slab 
238A Little PeculiarE6 7a ** 
239ElegyE2 5c ***553
240Clive CoolheadE5 6b **17
241The BulgerVS 4c *367
242Dirty Wee RougeE3 6a  
243Fledglings ClimbS 4a *738
244Wing WingHS 4a 46
245Little ChimneyM 289
246Battery CrackVS 4b 49
247Lucas ChimneyS 4a *136
 Kestrel Buttress 
249GoldcrestE7 6c *** 
250HawkwingE1 5b ***535
251CarrionE3 5c *11
252Kestrel CrackVS 4b **613
253Headless HorsemanE1 5b 16
254Logical ProgressionE7 6c **1
255Sleepy HollowE10 7a *** 
256FlimneyS 4a 184
257AmaranthE4 5c  
258Death KnellE4 5c ***58
259Pooh's ConnectionE2 6a 1
260RhodrenHVS 5b *318
261Flake ChimneyD *297
 Chalkstorm Area 
263Straight CrackHS 4a 155
264PunchE3 6b *4
265ChokaE1 5c *79
266Circuit BreakerE3 6a *2
267Hunky DoryE3 6a ***127
268Prow CornerVD *1954
269Corner CracksHVD *1339
270Micro-StormE1 5c 24
271ChalkstormE4 5c **848
272Prow CracksVD **2073
273Prow Cracks VariationsHVD *690
274Commander EnergyE2 5c ***845
275Sumo CelluliteE4 6a **1
 Piece of Mind Slab 
277Rocking Stone GullyHVD 760
278Captain LethargyHVD 1329
279Sifta's QuidHS 4b *929
280Sifta's Quid Inside RouteS 3a 354
281Obsession FataleE8 6c ***79
282Piece of MindE6 6b ***104
283The Emergency ExitE6 6b 2
284Final DestinationE8 6c 1
285Thin AirE5 6a ***103
286The Roaches RidgeD 3a *73
287The Super GirdleE4 6a *** 
 Piece of Mind Boulders 
289Cottage Arêtef5+ *18
290Cottage Arête Right
-
V1 8
291The Crystal MazeV9 2
292Open Bum Cleftf6A *26
293Sketchy Arêtef5+ 2
294Adventurous Arêtef6A 3
295The Jamsf5+ **4
296Hanging Arêtef5 1
297The Teacupf5 *15
298Grewsomef6B *20
299Twisted Crackf6B *28
300Left OffV3 7
301Off Workf5+ *33
302Flake and Arêtef5+ *26
303Sticky WallV5 2
304Wildy's Arêtef6A **133
305Wildy's Arête Sit-Start
-
V5 64
306Wildy's Rightf6A **145
307Slab and Crackf3+ **160
308Slab and Crack - Left FinishV1 41
309Jobbyf3+ *93
310Mickyf3 *42
311Little ArêteV0- 18
312Lazy WallV0- 22
313Scabf5+ 6
314Busterf6B 2
315Sail Slabf2+ *127
316Mantel and Pocketf3 *138
317Mantle and Pocket Sit-Start
-
V2 7
318Sail Arêtef3 *124
319Peer PressureV0 10
320Sail Ribf4+ *125
321Tittersworth Ribf5+ *79
322Tittersworth Rib Sit-Start
-
V4 17
323Weird Little 5c
-
V2 14
324Chips Ahoyf5 *68
325Left and Up
-
V0- 20
326The Stretch
-
V3 3
327Rampf4+ 14
328The Pottyf4 24
329Croissant Groovef5+ 12
330Dropsyf4+ *1
331The Blobf5 2
332Crinkles Wallf6C+ *1
333Annie's Eggf6C+ *1
334Radical Runnel
-
V2 1
335Little MantelV0 2
336Flake and GrooveV0- 7
337Two Bumps *V6 1
 Unknown Problems and Routes 
339Boxing Gloves and Roller SkatesVB *5
340Prow Corner Twin CracksHVD 4a *108
341Rock Room Slabf5 *1
342The Staffordshire NoseED1 ***16
343Loose FlakesV0- 1
344Dirty CrackVB 2
345The Flake
-
V0 5
346Flake Crack
-
V0  
347P.17f4 2
348P.15f3+ 2
349P.18f3+ 1
350Blister slab stay low traverseV2 3
351Something Better Change RHE2 5b 2
352Block and Crackf2+ 25
353The Fly Low StartV7 * 
354Turbo Extension *f8A ** 
355Greener Traverse - Turner's Extension *V7  
356The Staffordshire Man *V5+ ***1
357Slabotomy Lefthand *f7A+ ** 
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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