Climbs 50
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 1400m a.s.l
Faces NE

Pumpy moves on Corrugation! © Jamie Skelton

Crag features

Sometimes used by outdoor centres (consider yourself warned). Routes up to 12m, Ideal for sub-E1 climbers seeking a bit of seclusion... though the best route is a really good E1 called Corrugation

Approach notes

Leave the A465 at Dowlais roundabout (Asda supermarket). Past superstore entrance, turn L, then L again, then R. Take the track through buildings and horseboxes and then R up a potholed road for 1mi to the quarries.

Or: park in Pant Cad Ifor car park (SO 062094). Take the Garth lane (30m R from the pub), through farm, through gas pumping station, to the potholed track/road.

The guide is correct, however there are some large gaps between routes that aren't made clear in the descriptions.
sdi - 26/Sep/08
assuming we were at the right crag the route discriptions are completely wrong in the guide for any of the sections. the only feature reconisable was the E1-'Corrugation' the obvious arete in section 2. working left and right from this feature nothing seamed to fit guide book descriptions. its a shame the guide seams so inacurate, its a lovely little crag. could any one enlighten us as to if we were in the wrong place or the guide is so inacurate.
paul greenhow - 31/May/05
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Bay 3 -Staircase-Reach(hball) Pete's finish-Pleasurance(routes).
2 Staircase
-
none 2a 9
3 Painful Crack
-
none 4a 6
4 Short Cleft
-
none 4a 7
5 Wide Crack
-
none 3a 6
6 Grooves
-
none 2a 5
7 Finger Line
-
none 5b 4
8 Thin Crack
-
none 5a 4
9 The Reach
-
none 5a 2
10 Pete's Finish
-
E1 5b 8
11 Nut wall
-
VS 4c 6
12 Nut Wall direct
-
E1 5c  
13 Unnamed
-
E1 5b  
14 Friends in Need
-
HVS 5a  
15 Little Owl
-
VS 4c 5
16 Pleasurance
-
HS 4b  
  Bay 2-Short Crack to Hawthorn Chimney including Corrugation.
18 Short Crack HS 4b 14
19 Black Crack
-
VS 4b 14
20 Flowstone HVS 5a 22
21 Two Half Quids
-
VS 4c 16
22 Two Fingers
-
VS 4c 10
23 Cystitis Eat Your Heart Out
-
VS 4c 25
24 Suns Going Down VS 4c 9
25 Corrugation E1 5b 39
26 Frontal Wall
-
S 4a * 24
27 Hawthorn Chimney
-
D 4
28 Tree trip S 4a 2
29 Unamed 1 VB 2
30 Crack 1 V0 2
31 Crack 2 V0 2
32 Groove VB 2
33 Middle Wall V1 1
  Bay one- routes left of spare rib to right of spare rib
35 New 1 Vs VS 4c  
36 New 2 VS 4c  
37 I'll write your name. E3 5c/6a 1
38 New 4 HVS 5a 1
39 New 5 HVS 5a  
40 New 6 M  
41 New 7 HVS 5a 1
42 New 8 HVS 5a 1
43 New 9 HVS 5a 1
44 new10 - Springroll S 4a 1
45 New 11 HVD  
46 New 12 HVD 1
47 New 13 VS 4c  
48 New 14 - Wide Vegetated Crack @7m Left Of Spare Rib.
-
VD  
49 New 15 - Doglegs obvious easier cracks. Direct overlap at E2 5c. E1 5b * 1
50 New 16 - 1 Metre Left Of Spare Rib Arete. E1  
51 Spare Rib HS 4b 2
52 White Groove
-
HS 4b 3
53 Spiderman E2 ** 1

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