Climbs 52
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 1400m a.s.l
Faces NE

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Crag features

Sometimes used by outdoor centres (consider yourself warned). Routes up to 12m, Ideal for sub-E1 climbers seeking a bit of seclusion... though the best route is a really good E1 called Corrugation

Approach notes

Leave the A465 at Dowlais roundabout (Asda supermarket). Past superstore entrance, turn L, then L again, then R. Take the track through buildings and horseboxes and then R up a potholed road for 1mi to the quarries.

Or: park in Pant Cad Ifor car park (SO 062094). Take the Garth lane (30m R from the pub), through farm, through gas pumping station, to the potholed track/road.

The guide is correct, however there are some large gaps between routes that aren't made clear in the descriptions.
sdi - 26/Sep/08
assuming we were at the right crag the route discriptions are completely wrong in the guide for any of the sections. the only feature reconisable was the E1-'Corrugation' the obvious arete in section 2. working left and right from this feature nothing seamed to fit guide book descriptions. its a shame the guide seams so inacurate, its a lovely little crag. could any one enlighten us as to if we were in the wrong place or the guide is so inacurate.
paul greenhow - 31/May/05
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Bay 3 -Staircase-Reach(hball) Pete's finish-Pleasurance(routes).
2 Staircase
-
none 2a 10
3 Painful Crack
-
none 4a 7
4 Short Cleft
-
none 4a 8
5 Wide Crack
-
none 3a 7
6 Grooves
-
none 2a 6
7 Finger Line
-
none 5b 4
8 Thin Crack
-
none 5a 4
9 The Reach
-
none 5a 3
10 Pete's Finish
-
E1 5b 9
11 Nut wall
-
VS 4c 9
12 Nut Wall direct
-
E1 5c  
13 Unnamed
-
E1 5b  
14 Friends in Need
-
HVS 5a 1
15 Little Owl
-
VS 4c 7
16 Pleasurance
-
HS 4b 2
17 Order in the Senedd * none hvs 4c  
  Bay 2-Short Crack to Hawthorn Chimney including Corrugation.
19 Short Crack HS 4b 18
Climb name Grade
20 Black Crack
-
VS 4b 17
21 Flowstone HVS 5a 27
22 Two Half Quids
-
VS 4c 20
23 Two Fingers
-
VS 4c 13
24 Cystitis Eat Your Heart Out
-
VS 4c 32
25 Suns Going Down VS 4c 12
26 Corrugation E1 5b 35
27 Frontal Wall
-
S 4a * 29
28 Hawthorn Chimney
-
D 5
29 Tree trip S 4a 2
30 Unamed 1 VB 2
31 Crack 1 V0 3
32 Crack 2 V0 2
33 Groove VB 2
34 Middle Wall V1 2
  Bay one- routes left of spare rib to right of spare rib
36 Cream Cracker VS 4c 1
37 Trumpet VS 4c 2
38 I'll write your name. E3 5c/6a 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer PaulTclimbing