Climbs 52
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 1400m a.s.l
Faces NE

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Crag features

Sometimes used by outdoor centres (consider yourself warned). Routes up to 12m, Ideal for sub-E1 climbers seeking a bit of seclusion... though the best route is a really good E1 called Corrugation

Approach notes

Leave the A465 at Dowlais roundabout (Asda supermarket). Past superstore entrance, turn L, then L again, then R. Take the track through buildings and horseboxes and then R up a potholed road for 1mi to the quarries.

Or: park in Pant Cad Ifor car park (SO 062094). Take the Garth lane (30m R from the pub), through farm, through gas pumping station, to the potholed track/road.

The guide is correct, however there are some large gaps between routes that aren't made clear in the descriptions.
sdi - 26/Sep/08
assuming we were at the right crag the route discriptions are completely wrong in the guide for any of the sections. the only feature reconisable was the E1-'Corrugation' the obvious arete in section 2. working left and right from this feature nothing seamed to fit guide book descriptions. its a shame the guide seams so inacurate, its a lovely little crag. could any one enlighten us as to if we were in the wrong place or the guide is so inacurate.
paul greenhow - 31/May/05
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Bay 3 -Staircase-Reach(hball) Pete's finish-Pleasurance(routes).
2 Staircase
none 2a 10
3 Painful Crack
none 4a 7
4 Short Cleft
none 4a 8
5 Wide Crack
none 3a 7
6 Grooves
none 2a 6
7 Finger Line
none 5b 4
8 Thin Crack
none 5a 4
9 The Reach
none 5a 3
10 Pete's Finish
E1 5b 9
11 Nut wall
VS 4c 9
12 Nut Wall direct
E1 5c  
13 Unnamed
E1 5b  
14 Friends in Need
HVS 5a 1
15 Little Owl
VS 4c 7
16 Pleasurance
HS 4b 2
17 Order in the Senedd * none hvs 4c  
  Bay 2-Short Crack to Hawthorn Chimney including Corrugation.
19 Short Crack HS 4b 18
Climb name Grade
20 Black Crack
VS 4b 17
21 Flowstone HVS 5a 27
22 Two Half Quids
VS 4c 20
23 Two Fingers
VS 4c 13
24 Cystitis Eat Your Heart Out
VS 4c 32
25 Suns Going Down VS 4c 12
26 Corrugation E1 5b 35
27 Frontal Wall
S 4a * 29
28 Hawthorn Chimney
D 5
29 Tree trip S 4a 2
30 Unamed 1 VB 2
31 Crack 1 V0 3
32 Crack 2 V0 2
33 Groove VB 2
34 Middle Wall V1 2
  Bay one- routes left of spare rib to right of spare rib
36 Cream Cracker VS 4c 1
37 Trumpet VS 4c 2
38 I'll write your name. E3 5c/6a 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer PaulTclimbing